W2D-012 Cookery matters-1.txt
The Big Apple
There are few things to match the sweet flavour and crunch of home grown apples Ð whether they be eaters or cookers. I like to use eaters in many desserts as they are less tart and more aromatic. However, they can be difficult to puree down so a good whizz in the processor may be needed. Apples combine so well with other savoury ingredients such as nuts, blackberries and elderberries for tarts, pies, puddings and crumbles or with plums, damsons, onions and tomatoes to create chutneys and relish which bring that wonderful aroma of autumn in the kitchen. To preserve the flavours of apples in liquid form try apple cordial Ð not quite so potent as Joe Grundy from the Archer's home brew. As well as for drinking it's such a good choice to use when poaching apples and berries. Remember when buying apples, big does not always mean best and I find the medium sized ones have a better flavour. As a rule, three apples should weigh about a pound. If you can't keep up with the abundance of fruit in late autumn then apples freeze extremely well for up to six months. Peel, core and slice them thickly, blanch in boiling water for just 1 minute. Drain, then plunge into cold water and pack either in rigid containers or polythene bags, dusted with a little sugar. Making chutney is easier than jam making, but the secret lies in long steady cooking which should never be over-boiled. Cooking with CALOR GAS gives a good steady flame which is rapid and easy to regulate to ensure this even cooking. Chutneys improve greatly with maturity, so store at least one month before using. Enjoy the fruits of this wonderful season and remember, an apple a day keeps the doctor away as effectively in apple cordial, chutney or even baked apple sponge!
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Apple cordial

This mildly flavoured cordial can be stored in screw top bottlers and diluted. I find it invaluable to add a concentrated apple flavour if roasting pork or duck.

35kg/31b apples juice of one lemon 285/10 oz granulated sugar 1/2 tsp citric acid 570ml/1 pint water

Choose those firm rosy apples if you can for this cordial Ð they will give it a much nicer flavour and colour. Wash and dry the apples, then chop up, but be careful to remove any blemishes which may be found on overripe apples.

Place in a large bowl, cover with water and lemon juice and leave to soften, stirring occasionally. Cover and leave for 24 hours.

Transfer to a heavy based pan and simmer until the fruit becomes soft. Transfer to a jelly bag or a sieve lined with muslin and strain. Do not speed up the process or the cordial will become cloudy.

Return the strained juice to a saucepan, add the sugar and citric acid, and bring to almost boiling point and when the sugar has dissolved, leave to cool, then bottle.

This cordial should store in the refrigerator for up to one week.

Blackberry and apple pie

Sweet Pastry: 285g/10 oz plain flour 55g/2oz caster sugar 200g/7 oz sunflower margerine or softened butter 1 egg yolk Filling: 450g/1 lb cooking apples, peeled, cored and thinly sliced 125g/4oz blackberries 55g/2oz demerara sugar 1/2 tsp cinnamon or cloves 2 dsp cider or apple juice or water to brush pastry one egg (Serves 8)

To make the pastry sieve the flour into a bowl, add the softened fat, cut and rub through. Add the caster sugar and egg yolk to mix to a soft dough. Cover the pastry with cling film and leave to relax and firm up in the fridge for at least 1/2 hour.

Put the apple juice, demerara sugar and spice into a saucepan and heat. Add the apples and cook for 1-2 minutes stirring to coat and soften the apples. Add the blackberries and leave to cool.

NB If the berries are ripe and full of juice then the addition of 1/2 oz cornflour to the fruit will help to prevent the pastry becoming soggy during cooking.

Roll out two thirds of the pastry and use to line an eight inch pie dish. Brush the base of the pastry with beaten egg to seal it during cooking. Add the apples and blackberries, draining off some of the juices.

Roll out the remaining third of pastry into a circle eight inches in diameter. Brush the pastry edges with beaten egg, and place on the pastry top. Seal the edges together.

Brush with beaten egg again and bake at 375F, 190C, gas mark 5 for 20-25 minutes until golden brown.

Serve dusted with caster sugar.

If liked the pastry for the top of this pie can be cut into narrow strips and latticed across the top.

Very Irish Potato Apple Cake

This is a very traditional Irish dish, and one I often make as a comforting snack. I like to serve this slightly buttered and dusted with caster sugar. The cake tastes even better if you warm them in the oven until the butter is melted.

225g/1/2 lb cooked potatoes 1/2 tsp salt 50g/2 oz flour 2 cooking apples peeled and finely diced 1 dsp lemon juice 30g/1 oz demerara sugar 1/2 tsp cinnamon butter and caster sugar to serve 30g/1 oz melted butter to spread on top

Into a bowl place the chopped apple, cinnamon, demerara sugar and lemon juice. Cover and leave to sit, and prepare the potato cake. This dish is easier to make if the potatoes are still warm.

Cook and finely mash the potatoes. Add the salt and pepper and gradually work in the flour until the dough becomes very pliable. On a floured board, roll out the dough 1/4 inch thick and cut into circles about 3 in diameter.

Cover one round with the apple mixture, damp the edge and cover with the second piece. Seal the edges with a fork or pinching with your fingers. Cook on the griddle until golden brown. Alternatively this dish can also be cooked in the oven, gas mark 4/190C/375F for 20 minutes.

Braised Hot Pickled Red Cabbage with Apples

1 medium red cabbage, shredded 350g/12 oz cooking apples, peeled and sliced 1 onion finely diced 115g/4 oz demerara sugar 570 ml/1 pint water or vegetable stock 1/4 pint red wine 2 dsp cider vinegar 1 dsp cooking oil 50g/2 oz raisins pinch salt and pepper

In a large pan saute the onions in the oil, add the cabbage, apples, sugar, salt and pepper and toss. Next add the stock, red wine, cider vinegar and stir well. Place the lid on the pan and simmer gently for 60-80 minutes until tender. This dish can also be braised in the oven. Ten minutes before serving, add the raisins, allowing them to plump up nicely before serving hot.

Autumn Apple Chutney

This chutney brings the flavours of autumn together in a mouthwatering way.

450g/1 lb apples, cored and diced 225g/1/2 lb tomatoes chopped 450g/1 lb plums, stoned and diced 1 crushed clove of garlic 280ml/ 1/2 pint distilled vinegar 225g/ 1/2 lb demerara sugar 225g/ 1/2 lb golden sultanas 1 tsp each mixed spice and ginger

Prepare the fruits and place in an aluminium pan with all ingredients except the sugar. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature and add the sugar, stir until the sugar has dissolved, then simmer gently until the chutney shows signs of thickening. Cool, then pack into clear, sterile jars. Makes approx 4 lbs.

Baked Apple Pudding

One of my favourite autumn puddings, which combines the flavour of old-fashioned, simply baked apples with toasted almond sponge.

Vanilla sauce makes a lovely accompaniment.

115g/4 oz butter or margarine 115g/4 oz soft brown sugar 3 eggs, lightly beaten 115b/4 oz self-raising flour 85g/3 oz lightly toasted ground almonds 8-10 whole cloves 4-6 small rosy eating apples rind of one lemon

To make the cake mixture, cream the fat and sugar until soft and fluffy. Whisk the eggs into the butter and sugar lightly but thoroughly, a little at a time.

Whisk in the grated lemon rind and mix in the toasted ground almonds, cloves and self-raising flour.

Transfer to a lightly greased serving dish and arrange the apples in the sponge mixture, then bake at 180C/350F Gas Mark 4 for 25-30 mins until cooked. Serve hot with vanilla sauce.
Vanilla Sauce
1 vanilla pod or few drops of vanilla extract 30g/1 oz caster sugar 4 egg yolks 570ml/1 pint milk

Place the vanilla pod with the sugar and leave the flavour to impart (at least 30 mins). As an alternative, a few drops of vanilla extract can be added to the sugar and left for the same length of time. Beat the eggs and sugar together until smooth and creamy. Warm the milk in a saucepan and pour over the eggs. Mix well and return to the saucepan.

Over a very gentle heat stir until the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. It is important to keep the temperature low during the making of this sauce, otherwise it will curdle. Serve warm.
