Welcome to our series of videos and articles dedicated to the intriguing and often misunderstood world of climbing training. The aim of this series is to share with you Robbie Phillips' knowledge of 10 years as a professional climber, 10 years dedicated to learning all there is about how to get better and 10 years of helping others achieve their goals in climbing.
Many of you will already be aware of different ways to train for climbing. We are also sure there will be a large portion of you who are brand new to the sport and have no idea where to start in order to get better. Our hope is that this series will help not only each category of climber out there get better, but also allow you to reap more enjoyment from the sport.
As we all know, climbing is more than just being physically strong and technically apt; it's also a mind game in which you have to constantly battle with your inner fears. These take many shapes and forms, but one of the most common types of fears, is the fear of falling.
It makes complete sense when you think about it; the fear of falling stems from an inner instinct to survive. Without a rope and harness, if we fall from 20m in height, it's unlikely that we'll survive. But we know that with a rope, harness, and a good belayer, this is not something we need to worry about.
So why do we still get the fear?
I don't like to say that it's an irrational fear, because in essence its not. When we go to the zoo and stand next to a lion behind an unbreakable glass window, most of us won't be scared because we know it can't get us. But when we fall off a climb, that's not the same, because we still get the same sensation of falling, and our minds and body still go through the same build up of stress before we finally take the fall.
One really important point I'd like to make before continuing is that everybody gets scared at some point or another, and really there is no ability to conquer or overcome fear, just the ability to better manage it.
Fear is a fascinating topic and is far too complicated to possibly deal with in one single article/video, but there are many books that have aimed at tackling this subject, and one in particular that I really enjoyed is called "Fear" by Roane Van Voorst – so check that out if you would like a more in-depth analysis of this fascinating topic.
It's important to be honest with yourself about these, and even if you're not debilitated by them but still experience some level of fear, identifying this can really help you.
Probably one of the most helpful things can be to create a routine in which you become more comfortable whilst at the wall or crag.
Always climb with a trusted Partner/Belayer – Build your confidence with this person over time.
Use equipment you know and trust – Don't lose confidence by trying out a new belay device or harness when you're going for your hardest climb. Instead have practice sessions with new gear to build your confidence before you tackle something harder.
2. Weighted Hang – At the first bolt, do a weighted hang on the rope. This will confirm that the belay device and knot are working and give you the confidence to continue climbing.
3. Encouragement – This is no joke! Get your belayer to encourage you as you start the climb and throughout. If your belayer is encouraging you, it means they are watching you and you'll know they have your back!
From a personal standpoint, I actually have some issues with exposure myself. I am a Big Wall climber, so having issues with exposure could be seen as being a real Achilles heel, but I have been able to manage my fear effectively by using this simple routine.
Before I leave a belay we always do the buddy checks – I always tie a figure of eight knot because I can check that it's correct more easily and it won't loosen over multiple pitches.
I always do a weighted hang before leaving the belay; this affirms my confidence in the knot, the rope, the belayer and the first bit of gear.
I always ask my Belayer to "Watch Me" – I know they will, but it just helps me a bit mentally.
One of the funniest things about exposure is that it can't actually harm you – if you fall onto a bolt at 30m, it will be the same as if you fall off a bolt at 300m. In fact, I have become more comfortable taking big falls high up on multipitches because I know there is less likelihood of me hitting the ground.
The honest answer to all of this is simply to put yourself in these situations more often.
The more you feel the exposure, the better you will get at dealing with it.
The more falls you take, the more comfortable you will become with taking them.
The brain is a muscle, and just like any muscle, it needs a stimulus to be able to adapt. Give it that stimulus and you will train it to become stronger and more adapted to stressful scenarios.
1. Top-Rope Fall Practice: To get the feeling of taking a free-fall, I like to start of by taking some practice falls on a top-rope. All I do is climb up to a point really high above the ground before getting my belayer to pay out a little slack - I then jump off and take a longer fall than I would usually take. If you do this enough times, you will slowly become accustomed to the sensation of a free-fall.
2. Lead-Fall Practice (Below Quickdraw): Once you've taken some free-falls on a top-rope, you can move onto the Lead wall. It's best to start of small, taking falls from below the quickdraw. This is still technically a top-rope fall, but you've lead up to that point so it gets you into the comfortable state of mind to progress.
3. Lead-Fall Practice (Level with Quickdraw): You can then take falls level with the quickdraw.
4. Lead-Fall Practice (Above Quickdraw): And finally, climb above the quickdraw a bit so that your knot is clearly above it by about half a metre or more. Make sure your belayer gives you a bit of slack so that the fall is softer than if they had no slack at all.
5. Non Pre-Planned Falls: This is the ultimate stage where you start to really develop trust with your belayer. A planned fall is easy for a belayer to prepare for, but if they don't know when you're going to fall, then they really need to be concentrating. Of course you have nothing to be afraid of; just make sure you got through all your standard routines at the base of the climb. After having taken a few falls, you'll know that your belayer has got you and that trustful bond between climbing partners will be ever stronger because of it.
Something that has really helped me over the years is using a mantra to calm my nerves and focus me for what's ahead. A mantra is simply a series of words that you can say or think before, during or after a climb. I have found them to be most successful before and during a climb.
"One more move... One more move... One more move..."
It's so simple, and so effective.
When I was younger I used to struggle to push myself to the point of taking a fall. I could take a controlled fall no bother, but when I had to push myself to that point when I was unsure of whether I would be able to make the next move or not, that was usually when I would bottle it.
The mantra allowed me to focus my thoughts on the simple act of climbing, and took them away from the fear of falling. I have also since used this same mantra to battle the fear of failing on climbs when I am scared of being unsuccessful.
"Give it your all... Amuerte!"
All this means is to go towards the climb with no fears and no expectations. If I start of in this mindset, then I know I'll be more likely to produce a great effort on the wall. For me it's not about getting to the top, just about trying my best! With that in mind, I can always give a great performance irrespective of the end outcome.
It's only through experience that we learn to manage our fears more effectively. The truth is that climbers are largely afraid of the unknown – if it's being afraid of a certain fall, or the exposure/height or even of a certain scenario, these are all unknowns. But through experience and time spent doing more climbing and putting ourselves into these situations, we will slowly become more adapted to dealing with them and the end result will be becoming more successful climbers.
Welcome to my brand new series of online videos and articles dedicated to the intriguing and often misunderstood world of climbing training. Throughout the series my aim is to share with you my knowledge of 10 years as a professional climber, 10 years dedicated to learning all there is about how to get better and 10 years of helping others achieve their goals in climbing.
This first episode is more of an introduction to my philosophy on training, but is integral to how you perceive climbing training as well as how you utilise the information learned in future episodes.
Many of you will already be aware of different ways to train for climbing. I am also sure there will be a large portion of you who are brand new to the sport and have no idea where to start in order to get better. My hope is that this series will help not only each category of climber out there get better, but also allow you to reap more enjoyment from the sport.
So... where do I begin?
Over the years I have experimented with a wide range of training styles in both my own climbing and with those I coach. It won't surprise many to hear that in climbing there is still very little research being done in the areas of climbing performance, although it is growing.
In the past climbers had a much simpler approach i.e. to just go climbing was enough. These days we have seen a lot more focus on structure through the increased popularity of competition climbing where peaking for specific days in a year is of upmost priority. But what is the best approach and what actually works?
I still believe that there is not one way that will undoubtedly be the way to train. We are each unique and therefore will not respond identically to each form of training. Climbing as a sport is so varied that when you throw in every style into the pot, how can we possibly come up with one solution that provides for everything?
Training is anything that is progressing you towards achieving your goals. When you climb, you are training as long as you have in your mind an idea of what you want the outcome to be. That can be as simple as getting to the top of the climb or using it as preparation for something else in the future.
Be specific! I am a strong advocate of the "specificity is everything" approach to training. Climbing is such a varied activity that it's even more important to make training transferable to your activity. I would ask every climber to look at all the training they do and aim to see exactly how they can make it as specific to what they want to do as possible.
Enjoy the process. If you're not enjoying yourself then what's the point? At the end of the day we are climbing for the love of climbing – if we've lost that somewhere along the way then we need to get it back! I always find ways to make my training fun and often this can be as simple as just changing the way you perceive "training".
My philosophy is a combination of structure and mindset. You could call it a holistic approach to climbing training; which in my eyes makes a lot of sense considering how much body and mind as a whole functions within the climber.
OK – so without rambling on anymore, lets begin looking at some really basic principles to help us on the way to improving as climbers.
"The Performance Triangle" is a principle in sport that says there are three main categories in which everything linked to performance resides.
I have always embraced the triangle throughout my years as a climber – I look at each area and try and identify which one is holding me back at any particular time. There will of course be moments when it's not one, but several; or maybe more one than another. The most important thing is that you do acknowledge your weaknesses and what really is holding you back.
Doing the training is only half the process – the way in which you approach it from a mental standpoint is paramount to getting the most from each training session.
The phrase "You only get what you put in" stands for more than "Do more climbing and you'll get better". If you increase the volume you won't necessarily get more benefits than if you just improve the quality of the training. Quality can mean several things, but what I am referring to here is "concentration" and "focus".
They say that to become a master at any skill you need to have done 10,000 hours of "purposeful, focused practice". Just doing the practice isn't good enough! It has to be with 100% dedication and commitment to the activity. This is what I would ask of any climber I coach wanting to improve and it's what I ask of myself every time I go climbing!
Saying that though, it's also important to analyse how you feel before, during and after training. Becoming aware of your energy levels is as important to getting the most out of your training as the training itself. If you are tired, then you either need to rest or adjust the training to suit. I can't ask myself to give 100% if I don't have the energy or drive anymore. You see a lot of coaches and athletes spouting the "No Pain, No Gain" approach... well this is a path that both injures and destroys motivation in climbers.
The best way to be in my opinion is to listen to your body and avoid pushing when you're not ready... That's not to say, "don't push your limit" – you have to obviously "try hard" during sessions, but becoming self-aware of how your body is reacting to training is probably the single most important thing you will ever learn as a climber. It won't only give you a much longer, healthier career; but it will also increase your enjoyment of the sport!
I am obsessed with goals! They are what give me motivation and direction to my training – without them I would be lost.
Short Term – Anything from a week to a month. They usually take the form of local projects (indoors or out) and Training goals (i.e. to beat a PB).
Medium Term – Anything from a month to several months. They usually take the form of a much harder project, perhaps even an upcoming trip or to have achieved a higher level in one aspect of your climbing having just done a training cycle.
Long Term – An ultimate ambition or dream. Something which might take a year or longer to accomplish. It's a good idea to have several in the bank, some even to span years of your career so that every goal you set has this in mind in the long run!
There is one thing that all goals must share:"The motivation to achieve them!"
To have motivation the goals themselves must inspire and drive you forward. They must be both inspirational and achievable! There is no point in setting yourself up for failure before you've even started. Your short-term goals should all be very achievable with the right approach. Medium-term goals can be more challenging again and long-term goals more like dreams or ambitions!
Once you've got a selection of goals that you're happy with, you now need to decide how you go about achieving them. This is obviously through your approach to training... But what do you train?
Refer now back to the "Performance Triangle". Identify what aspects of your performance require honing or training in order to meet the level that your goal requires.
If your goal is in traditional climbing you might want to improve your technical skills at placing gear?
How long are the climbs you are attempting? Do you need to train some endurance?
What style of climbing? Steep, vertical, or a mix?
Are you lacking confidence in a certain area of your climbing?
The bouldering trip is a goal in itself but you want to make sure that you have enough short term and medium term goals on the build up that allow you to get the most out of it!
The climbs in Fontainbleau you want to do are often slabby to vertical on small edges with hard slopey mantles. The rock type is a fine-grain sandstone meaning that the friction can be really good but the footholds are often just smears on the wall where confidence in your foot placement is paramount to success.
As you can see I've set quite a few different goals for one month. Some of them are going to aid in several aspects of your climbing whilst others are more focused on one.
To a lot of climbers who work full-time, getting out on rock is a goal in itself. For most climbers in the UK, going indoors is the easy option as it's much simpler than driving to the crag, finding partners or getting the right gear sorted and dealing with the weather. But you need to try and get out on rock at least once a week if you want to see your physical training gains being transferred onto real rock.
I've put down some "mileage goals" – these are incentives to get a lot of climbing done and to avoid you just hanging around really hard projects that might mean you don't get a good variety of techniques honed before going away on your trip. Remember that going climbing is always the best form of training as it combines all aspects of performance; but sometimes if you spend all your time just falling off the same hard boulder you can lose confidence, stifle technique and hold back physical gains.
The sport climbing trip is a goal in itself but you want to make sure that you have enough short term and medium term goals on the build up that allow you to get the most out of it!
The climbs in Kalymnos vary massively from long overhanging cave routes to grey vertical crimp fests – but you are psyched for climbing your first 7b redpoint and onsighting 7a in one of the big caves!
The holds are almost always big, there's a lot of options for hands and feet but the routes are mostly 40m long and 30 degrees overhung!
There really is no end to the potential goals you can set for yourself, the key is making sure they are pushing you in the right direction to achieve what you want.
So this brings me to conclude the article with one final note. As much as it's great to have goals and to train hard for them, you must always remember why you do it all in the first place... Because you love climbing!
As I've said before throughout the article and video, all training must be transferable. Your emotions play a big role in this – if you aren't enjoying the process then you won't be trying as hard, you'll skip sessions and in the end you'll just resent going climbing... and who wants that!?!?!?
My philosophy on climbing training only works if you're enjoying the process. If it's not enjoyable and you really resent doing it then it's not worth it in the long run.
Set your goals, keep a positive frame of mind and love climbing!
Endurance is a very big subject and one that is under constant debate and scrutiny by professional coaches and sport scientists around the world. It is studied intensely in the sports of swimming, cycling and running, yet in climbing there is only a small amount of research being done.
None the less, there is growing bodies of evidence that suggest endurance is an important factor to take into consideration in climbing... namely that really obvious one where our forearms swell to the size of grapefruits and our ability to hold on disappears usually with the resulting effect of us (the climber) falling off!
To say it's one or the other would be wrong; in actual fact it's a mix of the two. However at any one time there is usually one more dominant than the other.
The main physiological effect that differentiates both energy systems is something called "The Pump". This is an effect of anaerobic respiration where due to their being less oxygen present in the muscles; lactate, hydrogen ions and blood pressure build up causing fatigue and eventually muscle failure.
"Pump" is a very noticeable feeling that every climber will be aware of.
The "Pump Levels" are more of a state of "feel" than anything else. Just like I said in Episode 1; being self-aware is one of the most important lessons you will learn in your life as a climber and this is a prime example of it in action.
Level 4 – Intense Climbing, Really Pumped! Have to fight for it!
Remember that Aerobic is with oxygen; so that means you shouldn't feel much pump if any whilst training.
Description: Find a nice easy angled section of wall (vertical to slightly overhung) with a good selection of positive holds and jugs to rest on. Your aim is to climb continuously maintaining that Level 1 pump. Do not allow yourself to exceed this, just try and keep a nice steady flow and if you feel like the intensity is rising; stop on a jug and shakeout.
Description: You will need a patient belayer for this one! Your aim is to lap 3-6 climbs at the wall where your only rest is the time taken for you to lower to the ground and start climbing again. Don't exceed Level 1 pump – if you feel the intensity rising, grab any big jug on the wall regardless of colour and rest there. It's good not to sit on the rope during this exercise as finding rests on the wall teaches good resting techniques.
So we've discussed what anaerobic endurance is, however there are different levels to which it can be trained. I like to refer to them simply as High-End and Low-End Anaerobic Endurance. In this episode I am only going to look at High-end, but don't you worry, episode 4 will reveal my take on training low-end Anaerobic endurance as well.
The main differences in both types are the level of intensity and volume of moves. For High-end anaerobic endurance we want to be working in the region of Level 3 intensity for around 90+ moves (ideally a lot more).
This type of anaerobic endurance is excellent training for sport climbing and trad routes were you would be spending a long time on the wall.
Description: Your aim is to complete anywhere from 3-6 climbs maintaining a level 3 pump. The first climb is usually a bit harder than the subsequent climbs as that will spike the pump and from thereon in you will have to try and maintain it. Important to remember; this is training so don't feel obliged to push through if your getting really boxed! Just grab another colour of hold and shake out.
Aim to rest around 1 and 2 minutes between each rep – this is usually the time taken to untie, pull the rope and re-tie for you next lap.
You should be aiming to complete a total of 3-4 sets in a single session, each set separated by quality rest that brings you back to full-recovery, but by the third set I'm sure no amount of rest will ever feel like "full" recovery!
Description: Your aim is to complete anywhere from 3-6 circuits maintaining that level 3 pump. You can do this in a number of ways. I find it easiest to have a pre-built circuit that you've memorized which you will try and repeat a maximum of 6 times. Use pre-set jugs on the wall at various points to shake out with in order to maintain that level 3 pump otherwise it might be hard to maintain the level.
The resting time between each rep is the same as for routes but with circuits you can be stricter. As you progress with the laps on a week by week basis, try lowering the rest time from say 2 minutes to 1.5, working down eventually to 30 seconds at max - by that time you should probably build a harder circuit!
Linking Exisiting Boulders – Probably the simplest way is to just link exisiting boulder problems on the wall. Climb up something mid-grade and down-climb something easier then back up another mid-grade problem.
Linking Made-Up Boulders – A bit more advanced would be to make your own boulders up and then to link them together. This at least chunks the circuit into bit-size pieces so you can be more specific in each section as to what style of climbing you may want to focus on. The only issue with this is it's harder to remember, as every hold will be a different colour. To make it slightly easier, just make the upwards climbing different and then choose an existing easier down-climb.
As I have mentioned numerous times already and will be continuing to discuss throughout the series, the transfer of "Training" into actual climbing is of upmost importance! What I have found throughout my years of training is that the more specific to real climbing you make your training, the more you gain for your actual climbing!
I would say high-end anaerobic training is done best on a lead/top rope wall where you lap actual routes. The reason for this is you are doing upwards climbing, which is (most of the time) what you do when you are climbing a sport/trad climb outdoors or even another indoor route. Not only this but you will be simulating techniques required when doing routes such as clipping, resting and changing your pace.
When you build a circuit on a bouldering wall it doesn't take long before you have it so wired that you could climb it quickly without stopping. There is no need to clip, no need to rest and the movement becomes second nature.
Maybe you can't be as specific with your climbing if you are lapping pre-set routes on a lead/top rope wall, but I don't think it always matters so much. Also, if you are lapping routes at the wall, it's much easier to vary the climbs because all you need to do is choose another climb to lap... It's hard to do this on a bouldering wall, as you will have to make up another circuit. And even if you do have pre-set coloured circuits, it's unlikely that there will be several at the exact level you want.
Slow down – Don't rush through each circuit lap; climb at a normal pace even if you know the climb off by heart! This is training and not a speed competition!
Mock Clipping – An old school competition training tactic but I still like to incorporate this into some of my circuit sessions. At certain holds along the circuit you can pretend to clip – do this by taking around 5 seconds on a hold to fake grabbing a rope and lifting it high to reach a fake clip. You can be even more professional if you have pre-placed clips on the wall but unless it's your own woody I doubt you will have that facility available.
The last point I am going to make is yet another that I will re-visit later on in the series but something that is important to note for this endurance-training episode. A lot of climbing training enthusiasts are against shaking out and resting whilst doing laps and circuits; I however am all for including them as long as they aren't milk it jugs or no hands rests. I feel the skills of learning how to relax and rest on a route whilst pumped are actually really advantageous in real-life climbing scenarios. I would say that as far as my abilities as a climber go, resting is probably my strongest skill and I believe that I developed it to high level from this sort of training. From forcing rests out of marginal holds whilst pumped I learned how to relax in awkward positions, improve my breathing, regain composure and even improve my hip flexibility on the wall by forcing myself to get as much weight over my feet as possible!
Endurance is obviously an important aspect of climbing which has its place in every discipline of the sport from bouldering to big walling! We will re-visit endurance in later episodes, but to conclude on this one I'll just make one last reminder that as much as endurance has a physiological effect on the body; the technique of endurance such as resting, pace, breathing and controlling your mindset are as key to how much you can benefit from endurance training as any physiological gains!
So Strength is obviously a wide subject area and encompasses many different parts of your body, but essentially it means the same thing across the spectrum. We will look into the specifics of each area in time but for now lets just focus on what it means to train strength?
To get the muscle adaptation through training it's important to get the right intensity. This isn't difficult with strength work as the intensity is essentially your maximum ability.
Consider training in a gym; strength work would be doing 1-5 reps where you are just managing to complete the set. In a climbing scenario an example could be a 1-5 move boulder problem at your limit!
Something that is harder to get right is the amount of volume you do in a session. When training strength you should be aiming for short sessions of lower volume when compared to an endurance session for example.
Strength sessions should last no longer than 2 hours maximum! The reason for this is that strength adaptations come best when you are training at your max and it's impossible to train at your max for 2 hours solid so realistically any longer than this and you risk over-training with potential injury as a result!
This is the big bad word that every climber hates!!! Resting is the MOST important element of training no matter what you are doing; but in strength training it is essential! After a hard strength training session take a minimum of 1 days rest but if you want the greatest benefits, take 2 days rest!
My biggest gains in strength work came from 1 day on, 2 days off – the day after strength training I might do some antagonistic work in the gym, core or aerobic training. If I did go climbing I would only be doing Aerobic training i.e. very easy continuous climbing and nothing intense!
Power and Strength: Is there a difference?
Strength is your muscles ability to exert a set amount of force e.g. your ability to hold a very bad hold.
Power is your muscles ability to exert a set amount of force in a short amount of time with movement! An example of this would be a dynamic move.
That's not to say Power is not important; without power how would you be able to initiate dynamic moves? It is important however to understand that there is a difference and that when it comes to training for climbing, we need to know exactly what we are focusing on at any given time.
The best training for climbing is climbing! There are a myriad of training aids and devices nowadays that are said to develop unfound levels of strength and endurance like never before! Only one problem; what use are they if you can't apply it? That's not to say they aren't useful; but I feel there is far too much focus being put on Fingerboards, Campus boards, Gymnastic Rings and the like as an all encompassing way of getting strong for climbing when in actual fact they are only supplementary aids and should be left as that.
Without a doubt Bouldering is the best means of getting good transferable strength gains for your climbing. This can be done in a number of way using various exercises and strategies to focus on "Strength" over "Power" but also to maximize effectiveness in the transfer to your climbing.
"Boulder Projects" are what they say on the tin – hard boulder problems that you need to repeatedly try and work hard on until you can finally climb them. This is arguably the best way to train for transferable strength because you're practicing real skills at the same time as well as it being an all-encompassing physical exercise.
When doing boulder projects it's important to pin down exactly what you want to train. For example, doing dynos and big moves between slopers is a very power orientated style of boulder problem; whereas to train strength more specifically it would be better to focus on smaller more intense movements with worse hand holds.
If I was doing a boulder project session, I would focus on between 2 and 5 boulder problems in the entire session aiming to spend 20-30 minutes on each one. Bear in mind, to have good gains on a project boulder you need to allow for adequate rest between attempts and working goes where you don't start the boulder from the bottom.
Boulder 1 (30 minutes) – 10 move problem on a 45 degree wall with small but positive edges, smaller movements and slopey feet.
This will develop good static upper body strength, finger strength and core body tension for steep walls.
Boulder 2 (15 minutes) – 6 move problem on a 30 degree wall with big slopers, shoulder compression moves and mostly feet to hand moves with heel hooks.
This will develop good sloper strength, shoulder stability and core strength when it comes to compression style movements.
This will develop a powerful style, amazing body tension for overhangs and practice technical mantles as well as the transition from bigger holds in roofs to smaller ones on a vertical plain. To a certain degree this is also a power endurance problem!
This will develop good open hand and two-finger pocket strength as well as teaching precision in technique and good core tension.
If you want to isolate strength more specifically, then why not try and climb a set of boulders a little bit below the intensity of a "Boulder Projetct" at a slower speed. This will isolate static contraction from lock offs to shoulder tension and finger strength!
You can only do this if you have a good body position i.e. it teaches good technique!
I think it's important to not make these too easy! If they are then you will be able to lock of from any position. If they are at just the right level however it can be difficult to find the right body position, which certainly adds more interest to the exercise.
As much as it's important to climb at your limit to train strength, conditioning is just as important! Including a stint of mileage bouldering where you climb anything from 10-30 boulders that are all within your limit is a good way to train technique and consolidate some of that boulder strength with lighter strength based movements.
Even though it's not at your limit, it shouldn't be easy! I'm talking anywhere between comfortable onsight level boulders to the 3-5 attempts level of intensity. Those boulders should be mixed in with easier ones so you don't tire yourself out by trying too many harder boulders in a row.
Climbing Specific Exercises for Strength!
So whilst I have been pushing the Bouldering front so far, there are also other exercises you can do to help develop strength specific to climbing. These are of course using training aids such as fingerboards, campus boards and gymnastics rings. All of these tools are very much a supplementary activity and should not be seen as an all-encompassing exercise to replace real climbing!
I am only going to cover Fingerboards in this article at a very basic level and we will cover more in future episodes as well as fingerboards in greater detail.
Fingerboards are a really versatile piece of kit found in pretty much any climbing wall (and home these days).
These days there are so many different types of fingerboard on the market! My preference is for the Beastmaker (1000 + 2000 series) as they are made from wood, friendly to the skin and have an ergonomic design meaning you are less likely to get an injury.
I also travel a lot and sometimes don't have access to a decent training facility, which is where Awesome Woodys portable fingerboards have been a lifesaver! These are super lightweight designed with functionality and portability as the key features!
Note: Important to always remember – Fingerboarding is a supplement! It does not train technique or movement skills and therefore should be seen as a tool to hone your strength, nothing more! Fingerboards have been the "make" and "break" of many a climber; the trick is not getting too drawn into the initial gains you will make; leave the real psyche for the climbing!
Strength is static contractions; the goal when training strength is to focus on slower movements using less momentum. At the same time however, when we are climbing we don't want to dictate too much of a non-efficient style in order to train strength solely.
What I would recommend then is by making your strength training sessions a mish mash of bouldering at your limit, mileage and supplementary exercises such as "3 second locks" and fingerboarding to target that raw static strength more directly. That way we get a good balance of "specific" training and technical based exercises that help our transfer of physical gains into movement skills.
Strength is the most intensive of all the physical areas of training which is why it requires the most rest to benefit from the adaptation. I would recommend a minimum of 1 days rest in between sessions with a preferred 2 days rest for ultimate recovery time.
Hope you enjoyed this article but that's enough reading about training for one day... get off the computer and go do some climbing!
You're on the wall, your forearms have a light forearm pump already and you can't spot a rest ahead so you keep powering on up the face. The holds are small but you're still managing to stay focussed and fight through the building feeling of tiredness in your arms. You manage to get a light shake on some small edges; you continue to battle on, the intensity is rising but you keep going... All of a sudden you lose power, your hands are relaxing their grip as if the muscles in your forearm have lost all ability to contract anymore and you make one last ditch effort to grab the next hold... your fingers latch around the next hold but despite the in-cut profile of the edge, they seem to just slide off as if it was lathered in grease!
Power Endurance is mostly your ability to sustain muscular contractions at a medium to high intensity with limited rest. The feeling is quite unlike that of a typical endurance burn where you can rest or shakeout mid-climb as the intensity of climbing is at a level where this is impossible. The feeling upon reaching the most intensive bout of a power endurance focussed exercise is that of complete muscular failure without much sensation of a forearm burn akin to high-end endurance training. Instead it has often been described as a feeling of a "lack of power" upon failing or reaching the end of a set.
I have always struggled with training power endurance; sometimes I feel as if you're either born with copious amounts of it or a complete lack of it! But just like everything else it is completely trainable and is a vital energy system to hone if you want to get the most out of your climbing!
By actually trying hard routes at or close to your limit you will be working a level of power endurance. I find this is a really effective session at getting both the intensity right as well as the transferability to actual climbing which is as always the main focus of my training regimes.
This session allows for a variety of different situations in which Power Endurance will be being trained but also effectively practising technical and tactical performance. Although this is a great session to run, three days a week of this would not be the best use of your time for focussed physical preparation and you should mix it up with some more intensive Power Endurance training sessions such as what I am next going to show you.
You can target power endurance more specifically by making up circuits on a bouldering wall. These you can tailor to suit a specific type of hold or movement that you may find you're weak on. I find having a few different circuits at varying degrees of length and style is the best way to make the greatest gains.
Make sure each of them has a different style so you're varying technique and grip types. Your aim now is to repeat each circuit 2-3 times allowing for almost full recovery between each attempt. If you find that you can complete each circuit but are maxing out on or around the final moves then you have found a good level; but if you are failing on the circuit every time then it's probably too hard.
These are definitely my favourite power endurance exercise as they require little preparation and brutalise both body and mind!
This is one set and I would be aiming for 3 sets if accompanied with a different exercise or up to 6 sets if on their own.
The benefits of boulder reps are that they don't require a lot of preparation. The negatives are the fact that you're repeating the same moves over and over again. This means you become used to the sequence and therefore better at repeating, however it also means you may be susceptible to repetitive strain injury if you don't mix things up. I would recommend each problem in a session being a different one and not repeating the same set for longer than a 3 week cycle if you're doing 1 or 2 sessions a week.
The most physically effective exercise for pure power endurance is on a campus board - you will need somewhere to put your feet (it's not a footless exercise). This exercise is the most intensive out of the set mentioned in this article as it targets the forearms specifically without any other factor such as technique having any bearing on success or failure.
Aim for 3 sets using 4 fingers (half crimp) and 2 sets using 3 fingers (open hand). I find that varying the grip here is a good way of varying the intensity and stimulus to the forearm in different grip types. You can make it a step harder by going down to 2 fingers, but just be cautious of this step if you aren't already used to 2 finger pockets.
The benefits of training Power Endurance on a campus board is that the exercise is so basic that it's impossible to fall of due to a technical error meaning you can push right to the physical limitations of your body. This however has the down-side that it's very repetitive and could lead to repetitive strain injury if overused.
If you have a low level of power endurance, you may find that you struggle to climb longer more sustained sections of climbing without adequate rest.
Competition climbers and Sport Climbers tend to have really good power endurance as it is a requirement in their climbing to go for longer with less rest.
Boulderers may have a level of power endurance suitable for longer problems but if you tend to focus on short boulders of no more than 8 moves, it is unlikely.
Focussed Trad climbers will be more unbalanced if they don't actively train power endurance as it's unlikely they will reach an intensity on the wall that often to train this effectively.
Is training Power Endurance important for each type of climber? The answer is yes, but in varying degrees. The competition and sport climber relies heavily on it and should therefore incorporate it as a key feature to any training plan. The Boulderer should almost certainly incorporate a boulder specific power endurance element to their plan, as it is quite often the case that Boulderers fail due to powering out at the top of longer problems. Focussed Trad climbers won't utilise this energy system as regularly as sport climbers, boulderers or competition climbers, but they will use it on climbs closer to their limits and on hard onsighting! It could be the make or break on a hard trad route whether or not they can sustain a longer section of tough climbing!
This might sound totally ridiculous to some, but the art of being able to rest was a massive game changer in my climbing! I'm not talking about "Resting" between attempts or the number of hours between sessions; I'm talking about being able to control your breathing, relax your grip and recover mid climb to have a better chance of getting to the top!
A number of years ago I was climbing in Ceuse with world-renowned climbing coach, Neil Gresham. As you can imagine, getting together two climbing obsessed training maniac coaches would result in some pretty intense conversations. For me though what was the most interesting of the points brought up was that we both noticed how few intermediate to advance level climbers were able to effectively recover on a climb. Most put it down to not being fit enough, but what Neil and I both noticed was that it was definitely much more of a technical issue than a physical one.
So this video and article has been inspired by what I think is probably the most underappreciated areas of climbing performance.
If there are crack features, the learning to jam can be a secret weapon in resting!
It can be hard to see from the ground when scoping out a potential onsight, but over time you will become better at identifying the key features that make for a good rest point. Whilst redpointing a route, it's a good idea to practice resting in different positions, even if it doesn't seem likely that it would be a good rest, it might surprise you!
Just like redpointing a hard sequence, I have found practicing rest positions incredibly useful to developing muscle memory to make rests even better. It's incredible what can sometimes feel awkward and unnatural, after a few attempts the body remembers the subtlety of the position and allows you to easily relax and recover.
There's more to resting then grabbing the holds and shaking out! Both your body and mind needs to synchronise to create the most effective resting positions. If you're stressed and experiencing high anxiety, you'll tense your muscles, restrict breathing and won't relax into the best position. Think of a time when you were scared – how gripped you were; how difficult it was to rest; and then suddenly you clipped a bolt or good bit of gear and you relax and realise that you weren't in an awkward position at all, it's just that your mind isn't allowing your body to do what it naturally wants to do.
Whilst resting, try and shift your mindset to be more passive than aggressive. It's hard to do on a difficult climb when your pumped, stressed and in an aggressive state, but you only have to watch the likes of Ondra, Sharma and the any of the worlds best climbers to see that it works!
Everybody always says "Breathe!" - but it's true. Breathing slower deeper breathes will relax your body in a rest position and help bring you back into a much calmer frame of mind whilst simultaneously relaxing your tightened muscles.
Learn to relax your grip on holds – only holding on with the minimum amount of force to maintain contact and avoid over-gripping. This works in conjunction with having good body position, because if you're balanced you won't need to hold on as tight!
Another really big game change for me was learning that I could rest whilst I was moving – I call this "The Quick Flick"! It's pretty simple really; all you do is shake and try to relax your hand/forearm as you move to the next handhold. It's not effective in every scenario obviously e.g. Dynos, but it has allowed me to get through some really tough terrain when I've been really pumped!
I have found it most useful when I know the next handhold is bad and I'm going to have to pull hard on it – I lock off with the other arm, shake before grabbing the hold then engage!
Definitely more of a skill than anything else, the kneebar is the holy grail of resting techniques! If you can master this skill it will open doors allowing you the possibility to recover in difficult sections of the wall.
All of these are great techniques and thoughts to help you recover better on the wall, but there is more to it than just the knowledge of how to rest. It's important to have a good understanding of the tactics behind implementing resting techniques.
A good example of this would be making sure to apply resting techniques before and after crux sections of a climb. Needless to say, climbing a crux is going to be harder if your pumped, so try and plan a rest before you enter. Similarly, you'll be tired after the crux, so scope out the potential for resting solutions afterwards otherwise it may be that your too pumped to climb even on easier terrain.
I always envisage climbing as a balancing act. You're constantly trying to work between giving more effort in hard sections and relaxing in easier ones. If you think of the whole climb as a balance, then you'll constantly be trying to figure out where the best places to rest are, what sort of rests they need to be and how you move between them efficiently. These are just some of the tactics of resting and to a greater extent, the tactics of how to climb harder!
What's the point of having all the strength and endurance from months of training indoors if you can't put it to use on the rock? This is something I have really strong views on as I have spent the last 10 years watching incredibly strong climbers not get the results they want on the rock. Climbing is as much a technical and mental activity as it is physical, and getting the right balance is how you can get the most of your physical gains!
We've all seen that ridiculously strong climber down the wall... You know; the climber who can do one-arm pull-ups all day, front levers for hours and campus all around the climbing wall. They might even have climbed really hard on rock giving the illusion that they are doing the right thing when in actual fact, they are just so strong they can get away with it sometimes.
Genetically you can only get so strong, but in theory, you can always get better at climbing through skill attribution and developing mental strength! If your clever, you can train in a way that will get you where you want to be.
Firstly, lets take a look at the difference between rock and plastic. Most of these are generalisations, which you'll have to take into account.
Footholds tend to be larger, stick out from the wall, much easier to place!
Footholds tend to be smaller, there are a lot more of them and tend to be inset making it harder to place and get away with bad technique!
What this means is that training indoors isn't always directly transferable to rock. You have to approach your training with specificity in mind rather than just going for a random session.
How to Train Indoors for Rock!
Featured Walls: A good tip if you have walls with in-built features is to allow features for feet only. What this does is provides as many (if not more) options for feet than real rock climbing and therefore develops a better understanding of general climbing movement. Having more choice for your feet opens the possibilities of better body positioning.
Flat Paneled Walls: If you only have flat paneled walls, then using any holds for feet and limiting the hands will have the same effect as features for feet. Of course using any handholds for feet might be easier than features because they tend to be larger, in which case try only using smaller handholds for feet.
What's great about this any holds for feet training technique is you can use it on both boulders and routes. It will open up so many more climbs to you without any extra effort – think about all those really hard climbs you've never dared touch? Well now they might be possible!?
This is a bit of a strange one. I came up with the concept originally when I realized that climbing on rock rarely required the same levels of pinch strength as indoors and more often than not was largely crimps.
If you don't climb with your thumbs you have to either crimp or open handholds. It totally changes the way you climb because you can't get the same support through your upper body as you did before – your climbing style changes as it challenges both technique and basic body tension a lot more!
In a conversation with one ex-World Bouldering Champion I found out it was his secret to World Cup Success!!!
Mileage is the thing climbers don't seem to ever get enough of, but it's probably the one thing you need more than any other! Understanding how your body moves is integral to climbing well and the only way you can get an intrinsic understanding of body movement is by climbing a lot!
This doesn't mean climbing harder grades is out the question, on the contrary! Projecting harder routes is amazing training for technique and is an invaluable exercise to learn truly what you are capable of. However spending all your time projecting hard routes can often stunt progression where the volume of climbing movement completed week to week becomes less. If you spend 70% of your time trying the same 30 moves then how can you expect to be able to combat different styles when you are confronted with them in the future?
The best climbers are those with a bank of movement-based knowledge built from years of mileage training. They have a good base from which to build on and climb efficiently in most styles!
Just get out there, have fun and enjoy The Process!


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Electronic Code of Federal Regulations (e-CFR)
Title 46. Shipping
Chapter I. COAST GUARD, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY
Subchapter B. MERCHANT MARINE OFFICERS AND SEAMEN
Part 11. REQUIREMENTS FOR OFFICER ENDORSEMENTS
Subpart G. Professional Requirements for Pilots
Section 11.705. Route familiarization requirements.
46 CFR § 11.705 - Route familiarization requirements.
§ 11.705 Route familiarization requirements.
(a) The Officer in Charge, Marine Inspection (OCMI) has jurisdiction and determines within the range limitations specified in this section, the number of roundtrips required to qualify an applicant for a particular route, considering the following:
(1) The geographic configuration of the waterway.
(2) The type and size of vessels using the waterway.
(3) The abundance or absence of aids to navigation.
(4) The background lighting effects.
(5) The known hazards involved, including waterway obstructions or constrictions such as bridges, narrow channels, or sharp turns.
(6) Any other factors unique to the route that the OCMI deems appropriate.
(b) An applicant holding no other deck officer endorsement seeking an endorsement as first-class pilot must furnish evidence of having completed a minimum number of roundtrips, while serving as quartermaster, wheelsman, able seaman, apprentice pilot, or in an equivalent capacity, standing regular watches at the wheel or in the pilot house as part of routine duties, over the route sought. Evidence of having completed a minimum number of roundtrips while serving as an observer, properly certified by the master and/or pilot of the vessel, is also acceptable. The range of roundtrips for an endorsement is a minimum of 12 roundtrips and a maximum of 20 roundtrips. An applicant may have additional routes added to the first-class pilot endorsement by meeting the requirements in paragraph (c) of this section.
(c) An applicant who currently holds a deck officer license or MMC endorsement seeking an endorsement as first-class pilot for a particular route must furnish evidence of having completed the number of roundtrips over the route, specified by the OCMI, within the range limitations of this paragraph, for the particular grade of existing license or MMC endorsement held. The range of roundtrips for an endorsement is a minimum of eight roundtrips and a maximum of 15 roundtrips.
(d) Unless determined impracticable by the OCMI, 25 percent of the roundtrips required by the OCMI under this section must be made during the hours of darkness.
(e) One of the roundtrips required by the OCMI under this section must be made over the route within the 6 months immediately preceding the date of application.
[USCG-2004-17914, 78 FR 77909, Dec. 24, 2013, as amended by USCG-2004-17914, 79 FR 55657, Sept. 17, 2014]
CFR Toolbox

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


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Respite for ITV as advertisers switch back to telly
A rare bit of good news from ITV, which says it expects ad revenue to increase next month.
Last Updated: 25 Apr 2016
ITV investors haven't had much to celebrate lately (unless you count the inexplicable popularity of John & Edward). So it's probably no wonder the troubled broadcaster's shares shot up 8% today, after it announced that its advertising revenues were expected to rise for the first time in 18 months during December. Interim boss John Cresswell said the numbers had taken an unexpected turn for the better, and even sounded relatively positive about 2010. On the other hand, given that its annual revenues are expected to show an 11% drop, and it still hasn't appointed a chairman to replace Michael Grade, ITV is clearly not out of the woods yet...
Cresswell thinks ad revenues will be 4% up in December, thanks largely to better-than-expected spending from food retailers, phone companies and cosmetic groups. As a result, he said, revenues would probably be flat in the fourth quarter. That may not sound great, but it's definitely a step in the right direction, if only because ITV hasn't posted an increase in year-on-year increase since early last year. And he also had other snippets of good news to report: ITV's website is doing reasonably well, and it's maintaining its share of peak-time viewing thanks to shows like TV Burp and The X-Factor (where would ITV be without Simon Cowell?). Oh, and it's also used the proceeds of a new bond issue to pay down £75m of debt.
But although this was enough to boost ITV's share price today, the general picture still looks pretty grim. In the first nine months of this year, overall group revenues dropped 11%, with a 12% drop in income at its TV channels. Its pension liabilities have jumped from £538m to £655m in the last three months. And of course, it still hasn't got a new chairman or CEO. The fact that Cresswell - who's already announced that he'll be leaving the company - was delivering today's results only highlighted this rather glaring leadership gap.
The latest City type to be linked with the job is ex-Merrill Lynch chair Bob Wrigley. But given that previous candidates have been all too quick to rule themselves out as soon as their names were made public, investors probably won't be counting their chickens just yet.
In today's bulletin:
Bank of England to inject another £25bn of stimulus money
Bad managers 'biggest cause' of work-related stress
A Traveller's Tales, MT's exclusive business travel blog
Sign up for our free MT breakfast debate - why bosses and IT types really need to talk more
Marketing Media & entertainment
Pelé kicks off after Samsung uses lookalike in ad
Vice's TV launch on Sky shows old media still pays
These were the most controversial adverts of 2015
Landing the former Top Gear trio is a huge coup for Amazon
WPP, Snapchat and the Daily Mail are teaming up to launch an ad agency


The 500 Series Roller rigidity is achieved by using the equivalent of a back-to-back bearing arrangement, complemented by special rollers that are crowned to prevent roller edge loading when misalignment is present. This results in lower elastic deformation as the load increases compared to a ball carriage or face-to-face bearing arrangement. Roller Guides have an increased load capacity over the ball as a result of the increased contacting surface across the length of the roller. A ball provides a single point contact area, while a roller provides a much greater line contact area. This results in a substantially higher load carrying capacity and lower wear with minimum rolling friction.


Can a development company do more than provide "real estate"?
Collar City Collective provides its portfolio and clients with real estate, design and construction services customized to meet specific needs. Guided by decades of industry experience, our philosophy is centered on simplicity and good design.
Like most things, it started in a dimly-lit bar with a question. Two friends, working in related industries, wondering the same thing over whiskey: "why do all new apartments look exactly the same?"
What's so different about an urban-planner and an architect starting a development company? In a word, it's our perspective that sets us apart.
Take a look at any project, apartment, or street-corner: they're typically analyzed as individual commodities; laying lifeless, as if suspended in a vacuum, on spreadsheets or in business plans. In reality, each data point represents a real, physical place that has countless connections to every other physical place it borders and everyone who interacts with it. Both planning and architecture are disciplines that focus on how the built environment operates in a symbiotic system. It's the inter-connectivity between places and people - and how these interactions radiate outwardly - that make some projects successful while others, that may seem identical on a spreadsheet, struggle to perform.
Going back to those early conversations, as our plans began to materialize, we agreed that the same paradigm shift could be used to impact more than just dollars and ROI. Living in Troy, NY, we began using this approach to visually map the spread of neighborhood decay or revitalization. Based on downtown Troy's ongoing development boom, we sought to explain how connections between vacant buildings and other conditions affected property values in nearby neighborhoods. This, we believed, would lead us to specific blocks and properties where our efforts would have the greatest cumulative impact. In early 2015 we purchased our first property together, next door to a house one of us already owned and occupied.
For sure, our approach is nothing new. Beyond planning and architecture classrooms, it seems everyone from designers to anthropologists have long extolled the virtues of good design and "place-making". Every society from Greek antiquity to the ancient Chinese empires all connected the dots between their built environment and the physical well-being, mental health and satisfaction of their people. More recently, the pendulum has swung away from suburban McMansions towards minimalism - the newest and hottest trend. But while there's always a new "lifestyle diet" of the week, we continue to focus on simple, realistic ways to introduce good design and planning to every project we work on.
Since that initial conversation in 2014, we continue to ask questions. And every time we do, we find exciting new opportunities.


Man it's been a hot minute since we've run an Austin artist to watch feature hasn't it? Well now that the craziness of SXSW is over, let's get back on the local hype machine wagon with a spotlight on Austin band Monarchs. You can't exactly call this group a straight up solo project, but leading lady Celeste Griffin is the primary songwriter/founder/manger/jack of all trades in the group. Griffin, a recent transplant from Alabama, evokes a lyrical and vocal style similar to modern songwriters like Cat Power or Lissie while occasionally mixing in some old school twang elements along the lines of maybe Patty Griffin. The grit and emotion in Griffin's voice is generally the primary focus on the Monarch's first two self-released EPs, and after a few listens, you'll see why such a captivating voice is the backbone of this band. Stylistically, Monarchs bring classical elements of southern blues while incorporating some subtle yet slick guitar and piano solos here and there. I'll save anymore comparisons here and just let you listen for yourself with track "Come On and Move Me" below. Stay tuned for information on the band's upcoming debut LP being recorded with famous local producer Mike McCarthy. We look forward to it.


The energies part, revealing a dark sun ensconced within the figure.
w.c. paper circle collage. Acrylic on 1-1/2" deep stretched canvas, wrapped--no frame needed, wired and ready to hang, signed on side, varnished for protection.


Thousands of Chinese are being expelled from Mongolia, Western travelers said. The reason: They refused orders from the pro-Soviet Mongolian government to move to the desert.
The travelers, who took the Trans-Siberian Express through Mongolia, quoted expelled Chinese as saying 8,000 people holding Chinese passports were to leave by August, having rejected the choice to move out of the towns. They said the Chinese immigrants had lived in Ulan Bator, Mongolia's capital, since the 1950s and were reluctant to leave Mongolia, where they had well-paid construction jobs. Diplomats said the expulsion was surprising in view of a slight thaw recently in Moscow-Peking relations.


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Duncombe knows of several day-care centers in the area that changed names but were still under the same ownership.
"That's not the case here," she said firmly.
When the previous owner of the day-care facility on Seventh Street called Duncombe to ask if she'd consider taking over the lease, she had "a couple thousand" stocked in her savings account and decided it was the right decision.
The day care was previously called J's Bright Learners, under the ownership of Jeanette Jean-Baptiste, until she was forced to close its doors on Sept. 23 knowing it was facing a fine from the Florida Department of Children and Families.
The DCF investigated the center, after a child bit another child in August. A worker was later charged with child neglect related to the incident.
It took Duncombe three weeks to clean and renovate the Laugh N Learn Academy II building. She said she hired the same painters and muralists that she used at the original Laugh N Learn Academy, so the two have a uniform look. Duncombe's husband, Andy Duncombe, 49, is a chef and prepares meals for kids in Laugh N Learn Academy's care.
Belinda Duncombe plans to have the same meal plan at Laugh N Learn Academy II and recently bought a new stove for the facility. Through the United States Department of Agriculture Child Care Food Program, Laugh N Learn receives a reimbursement to help cover the cost of feeding the children. Because it's a federally funded program, Duncombe said her facilities are inspected by Child Care of Southwest Florida, Inc., a nonprofit that works to "strengthen the lives of vulnerable preschool children and their families." Child Care of Southwest Florida is a proxy organization for the USDA food program.
Duncombe's facilities are inspected by three different agencies: the Florida Department of Children and Families, Child Care of Southwest Florida, Inc. and the Early Learning Coalition of Manatee County
On top of the food inspections, DCF conducts regular inspections. Belinda Duncombe is also contracted at both facilities with the Early Learning Coalition of Manatee County, which helps low-income families pay for child care through the School Readiness program. She said ELC also conducts inspections of her facilities.
She said she always wanted to open multiple Laugh N Learn locations in Manatee County. Next, she's hoping to open a center in Parrish, where she said lots of families are on waiting lists for day-care facilities.
Duncombe signed a two-year lease for Laugh N Learn Academy II because though she's hopeful, she's nervous about whether her five-star rating success can overcome the J's Bright Learners reputation. But through word-of-mouth advertising, direct marketing and social media, she is striving to change people's minds about the facility.
"I'm going to make sure kids are taken care of well; that's our goal," she said. "Let's laugh and learn; that's our name. They're going to play and learn at the same time."
Herald staff writer Jessica De Leon contributed to this story.
Janelle O'Dea: 941-745-7095, @jayohday
Laugh N Learn II info
Address: 5304 Seventh St. E.
Hours: 5:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m., Monday through Friday
Ages accepted: 6 weeks to 12 years old
Belinda Duncombe opened Laugh N Learn Academy last year in East Bradenton. Now she's opening Laugh N Learn Academy 2. Tiffany Tompkins ttompkins@bradenton.com
Belinda Duncombe opened Laugh N Learn Academy last year in East Bradenton. Now she's opening Laugh N Learn Academy 2. Here assistant director Elizabeth Rumph with Paris Myrick, 2, Duncombe and Armonie Mitchell, 1, read in the reading nook. Tiffany Tompkins ttompkins@bradenton.com
Disney World Skyliner gondolas take flight on September 29
The hand-made chocolate was a game changer
Ever wanted a bird's eye view of Disney World? Disney Skylines will make that dream come true
The Latest: UAE official says tanker sent no distress call


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HomePosts tagged 'Western'
January 16, 2023 January 16, 2023 PWJW_Indy Reviews, Stage Allen Tedder, Black History, Claire Dana, Dwandra Nickole Lampkin, Enoch King, Flyin West, historical, Indiana Repertory Theatre, IRT, John, Junghyun Georgia Lee, Kansas, Kayla Mary Jane, L'Oreal Lampley, LaKesha Lorene, Pearl Cleage, play, Raelle Myrick-Hodges, review, Western
Just northwest of the center of the state of Kansas is a little town called Nicodemus.
Today it is a National Historic Site, and for good reason. This is living proof that it wasn't just White families who settled the American West. Many Blacks sought true freedom under the Homestead Act, with, in this case, the help of the Nicodemus Town Company. In "Flyin' West," by Pearl Cleage, at Indiana Repertory Theatre, we see an imagined family who held their own land there.
Circumstances including escaping racially-motivated riots in Memphis brought three sisters – Sophie (Lakesha Lorene), Fannie (L'Oreal Lampley), and Minnie (Kayla Mary Jane) – to claim their own stake. On neighboring acres, elderly Miss Leah (Dwandra Nickole Lampkin) kept the farm after her husband passed.
Sophie, gun on her hip to fend off pests in both animal and human form, prepares for winter and to pass a resolution in town to fend off (White) land speculators. She is persuading Miss Leah to stay on at their homestead, while Fannie is about to be swept off her feet by neighbor Will Parish (Enoch King) if he can sum up the gumption to court her properly. Minnie has recently arrived with her husband Frank Charles (Allen Tedder), whose pale skin masks his slave upbringing. The couple had been living in London, England, where social acceptance came easier, but they hardly saw another with African skin. Frank, eager to get back there, awaits word on a possible inheritance from his father's estate in New Orleans. Somehow, Minnie also arrived with a bruise around her eye.
Cleage's compelling drama combines timeless themes of family, dealing with the effects of violence and slavery, and the power of sisterhood in even the most challenging environment. The women's performances embody many forms of tested strength, which work together to do what must be done. King plays Will as a rock-solid support without being controlling – in contrast to Tedder's turn as despicable Frank.
Stories and situations of family drama played out often in these times and places; there's more to the West than the OK Corral, with a lot more diversity among those involved than our histories and media suggest.
Directed by Raelle Myrick-Hodges, this production includes a deceptively simple-looking turntable set by Junghyun Georgia Lee that suggests a cozy cabin without the obstruction of outer walls, as well as an excellent hand-painted background by Claire Dana, also masterful in its simplicity.
Performances run through Feb. 4 on the IRT Mainstage at 140 W. Washington in downtown Indianapolis. Tickets and information at irtlive.com.
Shakespeare vs. six-shooters in Westfield
October 2, 2019 March 3, 2020 PWJW_Indy Reviews, Stage Adam Davis, Alex Dantin, Cody Holloway, Dorothy M. Johnson, drama, Jethro Compton, John, Kevin Shadle, Main Street Productions, Matt Hartzburg, play, R.C. Thorne, review, Rich Steinberg, Rob Stokes, Robert Fimreite, Sabrina Duprey, The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance, Thomas Smith, Tom Smith, Veronique Duprey, Western, Westfield, Westfield Playhouse, Xavier Jones
Upon seeing that Main Street Productions in Westfield has produced "The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance," one might think that someone dusted off an old script — after all, the John Wayne/Jimmy Stewart movie, and the popular song, came out in 1962. But this play was written in 2014 — by Jethro Compton, based more on the original Dorothy M. Johnson story than the film. And this Western, set toward the end of the 19th century, has a lot to say to us in the 21st.
Rance Foster (Matt Hartzburg), a scholar seeking his fortune out West, is beaten and left for dead by Valance (Adam Davis) and his gang. Rescued by local cowboy Bert Barricune (R.C. Thorne), Foster is brought to a saloon owned and run by Miss Hallie Jackson (Sabrina Duprey) in the tiny town of Twotrees. The local Marshal (Kevin Shadle) isn't much help as he feels the small bounty on Valance's head isn't near worth facing his gun.
As Foster recovers, he discovers that "Reverend" Jim (Xavier Jones), the black boy who grew up with Hallie, has perfect memory — having earned his nickname by memorizing the Bible just from hearing it, despite being illiterate. Foster decides to teach Jim — and Hallie, and anyone who's interested — to read, with the help of books he carries with him, including a volume of Shakespeare sonnets.
Hints of civilization don't set well with Liberty Valance, who wants to keep the territory as lawless as possible for as long as possible, while enriching himself and his gang. So, he comes to visit Twotrees, setting in motion the events that lead to his final showdown.
The play is directed by Veronique Duprey, Sabrina's mother. She said that when she found the script a couple of years ago and looked for an opportunity to stage it, she had not thought of her daughter to take the role of Hallie. But now, the casting seems perfect. An experienced young actress, Sabrina convincingly holds her own with the men — much like her character.
Other roles are also well-cast. Hartzburg wins us over as the idealistic tenderfoot; Thorne projects strength even standing still; Davis is perfectly chilling; Jones is outstanding in a surprisingly complex character; and Shadle takes what could be a comic role and stays true to the drama, playing the Marshal on the fine line of pragmatism and cowardice. Supporting roles are played by Cody Holloway, Alex Dantin, Robert Fimreite, Rich Steinberg and Rob Stokes.
Tom Smith lends his strong voice and presence as the Narrator, sort of a living embodiment of the Spirit of the West.
More than the events surrounding a legendary shootout, this is a story of love and loyalty, finding the strength to make one's self and world better, and bravery beyond the ability to hold a gun steady.
And drinking a lot of fake whiskey (it is set in a saloon, after all).
Note the play includes coarse language and the use of loud blanks in the pistols (the venue is kind of small). Main Street Productions will break ground on a new playhouse in downtown Westfield later this month, but for now performances are still in the old former church building at 1836 W. State Road 32, through Oct. 13. Call 317-402-3341 or visit westfieldplayhouse.org.


Headlines that 2015 was the "worst year for the market since 2008," more market turmoil this week and concerns by financial experts about a possible global recession are a "striking confirmation of the Shemitah and its phenomenon," New York Times best-selling author Rabbi Jonathan Cahn told Charisma News.
This week, media outlets worldwide reported that 2015 was the worst year for the financial markets since the last Shemitah and the financial crisis of 2007-08, and financial forecasters raised concerns about the potential of a global recession beginning this year. In addition, the year opened with global markets dropping precipitously, a phenomenon that resumed Wednesday, according to news reports.


A state penitentiary is not the first place one might expect to find inspiration and innovation.
But that is exactly what a small group of inmates and Department of Corrections leaders at the Oregon State Penitentiary (OSP) have dared to do: follow their inspiration and innovate. With hope and a vision, they reached out to Kurisu.
While Kurisu gardens have a history impacting the way in which healthcare is delivered in facilities such as hospitals and substance abuse recovery centers, this partnership with incarcerated members of the Asian Pacific Family Club (APFC) and Oregon's Department of Corrections at the Oregon State Penitentiary will be a pioneering project. It will be the first Japanese-style healing garden of its kind in an Oregon maximum security prison.
The healing garden at OSP has the potential for long-term impact on how justice is defined and rehabilitation achieved.
As Japanese gardens have done for thousands of years, this garden will offer unique opportunities for self-realization, tranquility, and peace. For inmates experiencing depression, anger, stress, and total disconnection from natural elements, recovering a sense of awe and appreciation for nature's beauty can inspire transformation at the deepest levels.
Kurisu's vision for this Japanese-style healing garden is a restorative space that, by providing opportunity for physical, psychological, and spiritual nourishment promotes resilience in individuals and communities both inside and outside the walls.
This inmate-initiated project has inspired a diverse network of supporters connected by a dedication to creating a more compassionate society and shared belief in the transformative power of the human spirit.
Funding for the Memorial Healing Garden project at Oregon State Penitentiary is made possible entirely by donations from individuals both inside and outside the walls and generous grants from community supporters including the Oregon Community Foundation, Spirit Mountain Community Fund, Social Justice Fund and Meyer Memorial Trust.
Groundbreaking is expected in Spring 2019.
To learn more about this truly unique prison healing garden project, please visit the Asian Pacific Family Club's project page or download this PDF.


For this edition of our Then and Now series, we've selected one of Rolex's oldest sports watch models still in production today—the Explorer. Although we've clearly demonstrated in our past Then & Now articles that Rolex has a knack for maintaining fundamental design details of a particular watch while still managing to vastly improve the model, the first Explorer and the most current Explorer are remarkably similar—even for Rolex standards. Let's investigate this exemplary display of consistency by comparing the inaugural Rolex Explorer with its most modern version.
On Friday, 29 May 1953, Sir Edmund Hilary and Tenzing Norgay made history by becoming the first men to reach the summit of Mount Everest—the highest mountain in the world. Since many had tried before but failed, this was momentous news that was celebrated around the world. According to Rolex lore, several men on the expedition, including Tenzing Norgay, had on Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches during their treacherous adventure. So in honor of the ascent, the company came out with a new Rolex ref. 6350 later on that year and dubbed it the Explorer.
Built in stainless steel, the Rolex Explorer ref. 6350 includes a 36mm Oyster case, a Brevet winding crown without crown guards, and an Oyster bracelet. It is a time-only model with a black dial (in some cases a honeycombed pattern one), luminescent Mercedes-style center hands, and luminescent indexes with numerals at 3, 6, and 9. In fact, the 3/6/9 index configuration of the watch became its signature trademark—so much so that this layout is now referred to as the Explorer-style dial.
Beneath the large bubble caseback of the Explorer 6350 is the self-winding Cal. A296 movement.
Although Rolex released a slew of bigger and more complex models like the Submariner, GMT-Master, and Daytona after the Explorer, this modest watch continues to be a part of the company's collection. It is precisely the Explorer's unassuming classic style, robust construction, and an accessible price tag that makes it's a fan favorite.
The most current iteration of this watch is the Explorer ref. 214270 and while it is undoubtedly a modern Rolex watch, it has an uncanny resemblance to the original. The first edition of the Explorer ref. 214270 came out in 2010 and Rolex followed it up with a revamped model (but same reference number) in 2016.
The Explorer ref. 214270 was the first Explorer to grow to 39mm in diameter. Like its predecessors, it's only available in stainless steel, has no crown guards, and includes an Oyster bracelet. Also like earlier Explorer watches, the ref. 214270 houses a black time-only dial with luminescent accents, and of course, includes the oversized 3/6/9 numerals. It's worth mentioning that Explorer ref. 214270 watches made from 2010 to 2016 do not include luminescence in the 3-6-9- numerals while those made in 2016 and after, do. The Mercedes-style hands are still there, as is the inverted triangle at 12 o'clock. But unlike the inaugural Explorer, the new ones all come with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protecting the dial.
Powering the newest Explorer model is the self-winding Caliber 3132 with 48 hours of power reserve. This is the same in-house movement Rolex uses in the modern Oyster Perpetual 39 watches, as well as the modern Cellini Time watches.
Looking at the first Rolex Explorer ref. 6350 and the newest Rolex Explorer ref. 214270 side by side, it's clear that Rolex understands not to mess with great design. Rolex nailed the look of the Explorer pretty much from the get-go and now the company simply focuses on improving the technical and practical aspects of the watch.
Arguably one of the easiest Rolex watches to own, collect, service, and wear, the simplicity of the Rolex Explorer is the main reason it has withstood the test of time. With over six decades of history behind it, we wouldn't be surprised if the Explorer maintains its characteristic style for the next 50 years.


It's a a group of guys based in one city who want to get together regularly to get together for dinner, drinks, supporting one another and having a few laughs and going out to find some good looking chicks.
No creepiness or weirdo's, just a bunch of cool dudes who want to enjoy life more.
If you want us to notify you the next time there is a lair meetup in your city, fill in your information below. We'll even add you to the relevant group chat so you can meet up with some of the guys whenever.


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Achuaria – rodzaj roślin z rodziny rutowatych (Rutaceae). Jest to takson monotypowy obejmujący gatunek Achuaria hirsuta Gereau. Gatunek ten jest endemitem Peru.

Przypisy

Linki zewnętrzne
 Isotype of Achuaria hirsuta Gereau – izotyp gatunku ze zbiorów herbarium muzeum historii naturalnej w Chicago

Rutowate

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaWikipedia


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Jennifer Lopez Announces New Album 'This Is Me…Now,' Unveils Tracklist
Ryan Reichard Published: November 25, 2022
Jennifer Lopez via Instagram
Fans of Jennifer Lopez have a huge reason to celebrate today, because the multi-talented superstar has just announced her newest album.
Entitled This Is Me...Now, the album comes on the heels of the 20th anniversary of her acclaimed and widely successful album This Is Me...Then.
According to a press release for the album, the project will be, "An emotionally raw and honest project, unlike any she has produced before, she writes and sings about her life and experiences that will resonate with us all."
"Featuring confessional songs, reflections on the trials of her past, upbeat celebrations of love with her signature powerhouse vocals, This Is Me…Now shines a spotlight on her tough childhood, unsuccessful relationships and the incredible emotional journey she has been on," it continued.
However, the surprises did not end there. For, Lopez also shared the tracklist for the album and a hint that this album was inspired by her relationship with Ben Affleck thanks to the song "Dear Ben pt. II."
Check out Jennifer Lopez's This Is Me…Now album tracklist in full, below:
1. "This Is Me … Now"
2. "To Be Yours"
3. "Mad in Love"
4. "Can't Get Enough"
5. "Rebound"
6. "not. going. anywhere."
7. "Dear Ben pt. II"
8. "Hummingbird"
9. "Hearts and Flowers"
10. "Broken Like Me"
11. "This Time Around"
12. "Midnight Trip to Vegas"
13. "Greatest Love Story Never Told"
A release date for the project and the lead single has not been released as of reporting.
This Is Me…Now is primed to be the first album since 2014's A.K.A., which peaked at No. 8 on the coveted Billboard 200 chart and spawned the hit single "Booty."
From K-pop to R&B and everywhere in between, these are PopCrush's 25 favorite albums, EPs and mixtapes of 2021.
Source: Jennifer Lopez Announces New Album 'This Is Me…Now,' Unveils Tracklist
Filed Under: Jennifer Lopez
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Black History Month ended with 'The Crowning Event' ceremony in the City Hall Rotunda on February 28, 2013.
David Gallagher, Special Events Manager at City of Cleveland, served as MC for the event.
The opening invocation was offered by Pastor Grady Stevenson.
Mayor Frank G. Jackson welcomed the crowd.
The Mayor was followed by Councilman Kevin Kelley and Director Blaine Griffin.
Next, Rick Reynolds told of the history of the Alpha Step Crew, part of the Alpha ESQuires Club, a youth development program of Alpha Phi Alpha Fraternity Inc. Delta Alpha Lambda Chapter. He then introduced the Crew.
The Alpha Step Crew performed twice at the ceremony.
See videos of the performances and photos of the Alpha Step Crew.
Yvonne Pointer introduced the Guest Speaker, Margaret Bernstein.
The title of Ms. Bernstein's address was Marching Orders.
In her keynote, Ms Bernstein said that our children need able and stable role models and that we should not get used to anything less than that.
Ms Bernstein also told about a project she wants to work on - The Purse Project - that will help get more mentors for our youth. She said that "Friends should not let friends date guys who don't mentor."
Lee Freidman, CEO of College Now, spoke next. College Now works so that all who seek higher education will have the support they need to successfully complete their postsecondary education, lead more satisfying and productive lives, and contribute to the region's economic vitality.
Jacqueline Muhammad spoke about the importance of mentoring youth and announced a special scholarship that the City is creating for College Now.
Congratulations to the Black History Month committee for an uplifitng month of events.
Enjoy these photos from the event. If you can identify anyone in the photos, please let us know.


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The Doctoral Debate
Community & membership
EUA Council for Doctoral Education
Call for applications for the EUA-CDE Steering Committee
The EUA Council for Doctoral Education (EUA-CDE) has opened a call for applications for its Steering Committee.
The EUA-CDE Steering Committee guides the preparation and implementation of the EUA-CDE work programme. By working closely with the Secretariat, members advise on future activities and identify emerging trends and priorities in doctoral education. The Steering Committee meets three to four times per year.
The EUA Board will establish a nominations committee. It will be the responsibility of the committee to prepare a shortlist of candidates for consideration by the EUA Board. EUA-CDE Steering Committee members will be appointed for a period of three years, which can be renewed one time. The nominations committee will seek candidates who are diverse in terms of institutional and disciplinary background, geography and gender.
The present EUA-CDE Steering Committee comprises the following members:
Chair: Luke Georghiou, University of Manchester, UK
Paolo Biscari, Polytechnic University of Milan, Italy
Hans-Joachim Bungartz, Technical University of Munich, Germany
Barbara Dooley, University College Dublin, Ireland
Irma Grdzelidze, Ivane Javakhishvili Tbilisi State University, Georgia
Aleksandra Kanjuo-Mrcela, University of Ljubljana, Slovenia
Pirjo Nikander, Tampere University, Finland
Mossadek Talby, Aix-Marseille University, France
Andrei Terian-Dan, Lucian Blaga University of Sibiu, Romania
Martine Rahier, University of Neuchâtel, Switzerland (ex-officio EUA Board member)
The members whose terms are ending are: Luke Georghiou, Hans-Joachim Bungartz, Aleksandra Kanjuo-Mrcela and Mossadek Talby.
The new members will begin their mandate in September 2022.
Interested candidates should fulfil the following criteria:
1. Hold a position of institution-wide responsibility in an EUA-CDE member university at the level of vice-rector, doctoral school director or similar.
2. Demonstrate a considerable level of expertise and concrete experience concerning the institutional management of doctoral education.
3. Possess knowledge about national and international debates and policies in the area.
4. Have a clear and well-informed vision for doctoral education in Europe. This vision should be described in a short statement to be sent with the application.
Candidates should send a short CV (1-2 pages), a cover letter demonstrating the criteria above and the motivation, and the short statement on their vision for doctoral education in Europe to Ana-Maria Peneoasu (ana.maria.peneoasu@eua.eu) by 17 April 2022.
Questions can be addressed to Alexander Hasgall, Head of EUA-CDE (alexander.hasgall@eua.eu).
Email: info@eua-cde.org
EUA-CDE is an integral part of


Pele and Hi'iaka is a timeless tale of passion, betrayal, healing and reconciliation. One of Hawaiian mythology's greatest epics is freshly interpreted by Dietrich Varez, one of Hawai'i's most celebrated artists. The story of Pele, goddess of Hawai'i's volcanoes, and her youngest sister, Hi'iakaikapoliopele is retold and lavishly illustrated with the artist s iconic block prints. The sensitive visual interpretation and simplified text honor the rich mythology passed through Hawaiian oral tradition.This picture-book style presentation offers a fresh visual tribute to these enduring mythical figures with the turning of each page. After a quarrel with her sister, the sea goddess Namakaokaha'i, Pele fled her homeland of Kahiki accompanied by members of her family. She settled into the fiery lava pit of Kilauea, in the upland region of Hawai'i island. Deep in a dream, Pele, in her spirit form, followed the sounds of hula pahu drums. She arrived at Kaua'i and was immediately captivated by the handsome young chief, Lohi'au. When she awoke, Pele asked each of her sisters to go fetch her new lover. Hi'iaka agreed to undertake the perilous journey. With her companions, Hi'iaka encountered many adventures on her travels throughout the Hawaiian islands battling reptilian mo'o and other evil creatures, helping people in need, making new friends and visiting old ones. Pele and Hi'iaka is ultimately a testament to the enduring power of love.


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Logic, Reason, and the Spirit of Inquiry
By Dr. Mohammad Omar Farooq
[The author is an associate professor of economics and finance at Upper Iowa University. Homepage: http://www.globalwebpost.com/farooqm; email:farooqm@globalwebpost.com.]
When posting the message "Just a dose of Muslim Irrationality!" I mentioned that I got it from the Internet. However, I forgot to mention that the title is mine and I also forgot to include in my comment that this is probably more a dose of "generic" religious "irrationality," as it can fit into any religious framework. Indeed, there is good indication that this one probably was not originated by any Muslim. Of course, I could be wrong.
It is noteworthy that there was a time in the history of Muslims when good skills in logic were quite important in the curriculum under which many of our famous Islamic scholars received their education. But these days, like many other lopsided conditions, Muslims have little appreciation for logic or reasoning.
Understanding and attitude of some Muslims are even bigger stumbling block. For example, on another forum, one of the Islam-advocates, whose comments without any humility sometimes stir up others to attack Islam, made the following comment:
"We the Muslims have taken Qur'an for granted as the authentic revelation from Allah (SWT). No arguments, no logic and no philosophy. The only thing is we have to understand it and be guided accordingly."
I don't know where (m) any of you stand on this matter, but to the best of my understanding, the above comment is just the opposite to what Islam teaches. And, when we engage in public discussions, with vigor and conviction in regard to such lopsided views, it is no wonder that there are many who would rather let us have the Qur'an and Islam and they would happily seek or settle for something else.
One of the most compelling dimensions of the Qur'an is to frequently engage us in reasoned dialog as it poses questions after questions and provoke us to think and reason with the Qur'an. Consider, for examples, the following:
Say: "See you? - If your stream be some morning lost (in the underground earth), who then can supply you with clear-flowing water?" 67/30
You might find the two books of Dr. Jeffrey Lang (Struggling to Surrender and Even Angels Ask) quite pertinent and enlightening in this regard.
Indeed, sometimes having doubt, even after proclaiming faith, is neither unnatural nor unIslamic. That "no arguments, no logic and no philosophy" attitude or concept is simply alien to Islam or the Qur'an. Demanding proof and use of one of the primary human faculty - reasoning - are essential Islamic, prophetic, and Qur'anic dimensions. The faculty of reasoning never becomes redundant: not while searching for truth, and not after we believe that we have found the truth. Those who do not employ the faculty of reasoning may grab the very first candidate that claims to be the truth, and if that candidate is embraced without appropriate scrutiny, in all likelihood, whatever was embraced will be upheld regardless whether it was really the truth in the first place or not. That is why logic and reason are never unwanted or disposable for Muslims. Islam simply teaches us to use those adequately and PROPERLY.
May I beg your indulgence to read the following verse about Ibrahim (a), who even AFTER attaining Prophethood, asked Allah:
"Behold! Abraham said: 'My Rabb! SHOW ME, how You give life to the dead.' He said: 'Do you not then believe?' He said: 'Yes! But to satisfy my own understanding.' He said: 'Take four birds, tame the to turn to you; put a portion of them on every hill, and call to them; they will come to you (flying) with speed. Then know that God is Exalted in Power, Wise.'" [2/al-Baqara/260]
This is the foundation of Islamic spirit of inquiry, search for truth, pursuit of knowledge, and understanding. We are, of course, not prophets. Genuine search for truth does not begin by taking things for granted, but by our effort to learn and verify. In this process, occasional doubts are very natural. As far as Islamic validity of what I am suggesting, let no one tell you any differently, because this is what the Prophet (s) himself has said:
Allah's Apostle said, "We have MORE right to be in doubt than Abraham when he said, 'My Lord! Show me how You give life to the dead.' He said, 'Do you not believe?' He said, 'Yes (I believe) but to be stronger in Faith.' (2/al-Baqarah/260)" [Sahih al-Bukhari, Vol. 6, #61]
We need to be particularly careful when we engage in public discussions about these matters where non-Muslims, atheists, doubters, and all other sorts of people - who are not necessarily bad people - are involved. Indeed, in terms of human quality, many of them are probably better than many of us.


With an election looming, the incumbent president arrests and disqualifies all possible opponents, one after another. Vladimir Putin? Yes, as we see in his treatment of Alexei Navalny. (The BBC tells part of that story here.) And these moves by Putin have been widely denounced and seen for exactly what they are: a destruction of freedom and democracy in Russia.
Western commentators who buy into the Kremlin line about Putin's "popularity" among Russian citizens would do well to remember that this assertion has never been tested in a free and fair election against credible opponents. As chess master and Putin critic Garry Kasparov once queried, if "there's one restaurant in town and it serves only one dish … is that dish 'popular'"?
In the absence of objective official indicators, one is left to look for empirical evidence of popular enthusiasm for Putin's rule. One such glimpse was offered on New Year's Eve, when activists in the Western Siberian city of Tyumen held a public meeting in support of Putin's nomination for president — announced in the local media, but not organized in the usual way, with compulsory attendance by state and municipal employees. In a city of 740,000, this pro-Putin gathering was voluntarily attended by nine people. Stories such as this seem to confirm the simple (and self-evident) truth: that a leader with real popular support would not be afraid of real competition at the ballot box.
Egypt's military on Tuesday arrested former military chief of staff and presidential hopeful Sami Annan, leveling an array of serious allegations against him in what appears to be a calculated move by the armed forces and the incumbent to push him out of the race.
Two other presidential hopefuls have been forced to quit the race.
Former prime minister and air force general Ahmed Shafiq said he did not think he was the "ideal" man to lead the nation after days of harsh criticism, some personal, by the pro-el-Sissi media. Shafiq finished a close second in a 2012 election and his candidacy would have also livened up the 2018 race.
Another one is former lawmaker Mohammed Anwar Sadat. He said he quit the race partially because he feared for the safety of his supporters. Sadat is a nephew of Egypt's late leader Anwar Sadat.
Mr. Anan, 69, was not considered a strong challenger to Mr. Sisi, a former general who has ruled Egypt with an iron grip since 2014, when he was elected with 97 percent of the vote. But his detention does suggest how far Mr. Sisi is willing to go to clear the field of challengers.
That Sisi feels it necessary to do this is a cautionary tale for Washington. How popular can this man be if he is afraid to let any serious opponent take him on? Logically, someone who is popular will be happy to have that demonstrated by a smashing electoral victory. Sisi is acting like someone who knows he has lost the support of the Egyptian people.
So let's ask the same question that Kara-Murza asked about Putin:"If Sisi is so popular, why is he so afraid of competition?" And if he knows his popularity has disappeared, we in the United States should be equally aware--and that should inform American policy toward Sisi's regime. We have tended to treat him like the popular leader who saved Egypt from the Muslim Brotherhood, because that's how many Egyptians saw him in 2013.
But that's five years ago and it seems clear to Sisi that more and more Egyptians now regard him as just another general, intent on staying in power forever, repressing any criticism, presiding over vast corruption and destroying the possibility of democracy in Egypt. Kara-Murza said it plainly: "a leader with real popular support would not be afraid of real competition at the ballot box." The Egyptian people can see through Sisi. So should we.
Today the last serious opposition candidate withdrew: the leftist lawyer Khaled Ali. In withdrawing, he said "the opportunity for hope in this presidential election has gone" and noted that "Our bid was met with a campaign of pressure. Several members of our campaign were arrested."
So now there is no one running against Sisi. This election is reminiscent now of those held by dictators such as Saddam Hussein and Bashar al-Assad, and it is sad to see the hopes expressed in Tahrir Square only seven years ago this month dashed by the Sisi regime.
Is Israel's International Isolation Growing or Diminishing?