text:
Showing results for tags 'iar'.
azur-frrom 1/32 IAR-80A
1/32 IAR-80A Azur-Frrom Catalogue # AZUFR8002 Available from Special Hobby for 1300 Kč (approx. £45 in UK) The IAR 80 was a Romanian World War II low-wing monoplane, all-metal monocoque fighter and ground-attack aircraft. When it first flew, in 1939, it was comparable to contemporary designs being deployed by the air-forces of the most advanced military powers. Production problems and lack of available armament delayed entry of the IAR 80 into service until 1941. It remained in frontline use until May 1945. In 1930, the Romanian government issued specifications for a new fighter. Although the government was not anticipating bids from its own aircraft industry, IAR produced several prototypes in response to the tender. A second contest was also fought between the newer IAR 14 and PZL P.24 designs, and once again the PZL design won a contract for another 50 aircraft. Although IAR's own designs had not entered production, they nevertheless won the contracts to build PZLs and Gnome-Rhone 14K engines under license. As a result of these and other license contracts the company had enough money to fund a design shop even, if its designs never saw production. Despite losing to PZL, an IAR design team led by Dr. Ion Grosu continued work on fighter designs. He was convinced that the low-wing design of the IAR 24 represented a better design than the PZL gull-wing design. Once again, the team studied the new PZL fighter looking to incorporate its best features into a new aircraft, and the result was the IAR 80. By April 1941 the Romanians were firmly in the German sphere, and as a result the Germans released more FN guns for their use. These were quickly installed, and the resulting 80A model finally mounted the original complement of six guns. Armoured glass in the windscreen, seat-back armour, and a new gun sight were also added at the same time, along with the newer 1,025 hp (764 kW) K14-1000A engine. The extra engine power proved to be more than the fuselage structure was designed to handle, and it had to be reinforced with a duralumin "belt" just behind the cockpit (in the first 95 A series aircraft built before the fuselage could be modified). Although the IAR 80A had a more powerful engine, the added weight of the guns, ammunition and armour plating reduced the top speed slightly to 316 mph (509 km/h). Nevertheless, the new model was clearly an advancement, and the A model replaced the earlier one on the assembly line starting with the 51st airframe. Eight of these had been completed in time for the invasion of the Soviet Union on 22 June 1941. FN guns remained in short supply, so throughout late 1941 and early 1942, guns were stripped from PZLs and observation aircraft for use in the IARs. Edit courtesy of Wikipedia The kit We've not exactly been endowed with 1/32 kits of this extraordinary-looking fighter aircraft, which is a real shame. When it comes to WW2 protagonists, I suppose we rarely look at participants in the south-east of Europe. Thankfully, with the foresight of Azur-Frrom, and with help from Special Hobby, the stunning IAR-80A is now with us in a real scale! Of course, this isn't the first of the line from these companies, with two previous incarnations available from them as the IAR-81C, dating back to 2014. This isn't a simple incarnation of the IAR-81C though. The fuselage and wings are indeed different. Inside the box, this kit is comprised of six sprues of light grey styrene and a single clear sprue. A packet of small clear parts, another of resin parts, plus a wallet with decals and PE, conclude the contents. Oh yes, an instruction manual too! The clear parts in this release are thankfully packed into a separate zip-lock wallet to protect them. The box for this is very attractive too, depicting an IAR-80A from Escadrila 47 Vanatoare, Grupul 9, after a successful combat against a Russian Yak. That's also a very tight lid to lift from the box…cue package of parts on the floor when it finally comes apart! Sprue A This sprue is very similar to the previous IAR-81C releases, but not identical. I did believe that there were changes in the length of the fuselage on the IAR-81C, but this new kit has the fuselages at exactly the same length. However, there are detail changes around the cockpit opening, in the area to the rear of the opening. I also note that the wing on this seems to be in a very slightly different position to the previous release. Externally, detail is nice and refined, with subtle and even panel lines, with rivets only seen along those panel lines, and not in between. The stiffening strip which runs from the cockpit to the tailplane is also nicely defined, and with rivet detail. Louvre detail just in front of the cowl position, is also very nice, but open. Internally, cockpit wall detail is excellent and very sharp, with nicely defined stringers and former detail. Please note that as is typical of low-pressure injected kits as this, that there are no locating pins to help you align the parts, so care will be needed (i.e. tape one side and glue from the opposing side!). The rudder is separately moulded, and the stabilisers will fit via the traditional tab and slot method. Also on here are the parts for the engine cowl. This is moulded as port/starboard halves, plus the nose cowl ring. There is a very slight short shot to one of the flaps on the rear of a cowl half, but this will be covered by the PE parts that are supplied and help to improve this area. The propeller blades are also moulded separately here, as is the bulbous spinner. Sprue B Again, at first glance, this looks identical to the previous IAR-81C, but it isn't. The span of this machine was shorter, and this can be seen in the wingtips on this kit. Everything else looks the same except for the fact that the centreline on this lower wing has no provision for the bomb rack that fits to the previous releases. That lower wing is a full-span part with some exquisite panel line and access port detail. As with the fuselage, rivets are only to be found alongside those panel lines and ports. For me, I will most certainly want to enliven the surface by adding extra rivet lines. The main gears wells are just that…..wells, and they are moulded into the lower wing. As is traditional, the upper wing panels are individual pieces, and exhibit some of the very finest in engraved detail that I have ever seen, and I really do mean that. I just hope they take a wash after paint! The wings are moulded without ailerons and landing flaps, and the remaining parts on this sprue cater to the latter and are moulded as upper and lower halves. The frame and fabric depiction is very nice too. As with the fuselage, there are no locating pins on any parts here. Sprue C This sprue is identical to that of the previous release, and contains the ailerons, stabilisers, elevators and rudder. All are traditional construction, i.e. halves, and moulding is very nice indeed with the same attractive fabric and frame rendition on the control surfaces as I noted on the landing flaps. There are a few ejector pin towers on the reverse side, and you'll need to snip them off before construction. Sprue D Now, unlike the main airframe components with low pressure injection, these are very different in appearance insomuch as the parts are glossy and extremely sharp with no real flash. I came across this sort of thing on the Special Hobby Tempest kits. The reason for the different moulding technique is due to the nature of the parts with them being intricate and relatively small. A good number of the key cockpit parts are found here, such as the upper tub frame, footboards, multi-part instrument panel, seat sides, optional control sticks with both regular stick grip and spade types, forward instrument panel mounting frame and rear frame etc. Also to be found here are the parts for the engine exhaust, control surface horns, and individual engine pushrods...yup, you're gonna have to apply them one by one, all TWENTY-EIGHT of them! That's a little different from the regular approach of attaching them to a central hub. Sprue E The clear parts. Special Hobby have packed these into two little wallets, with the canopy parts in one wallet, and the gunsight lense and wingtip lights in another. Clarity is very good, with no visible distortion. Sprue F Another high-pressure moulded sprue here, with many main parts for the IAR K14-1000A engine. The front and rear radial banks are moulded as halves, and the details are excellent with fine cooling fin reproduction and cylinder head details. You will also find the hub here, plus the main exhaust hub section. It's such as shame that the beautiful hub and its detail will be totally hidden by the shroud which sits behind the spinner, totally obscuring the aforementioned detail. Talking of spinners, the rear plate is moulded on this sprue. The main gear struts are found here, as are the wheels. There is no weighted effect to the latter, so you'll need to sort that yourself or purchase the resin wheels from CMK. Hub details on these are very nice, but as they are integral to the wheels, you'll need to mask them for airbrushing. No masks are included with this release. A couple of inner gear doors are moulded here but not for use, and you will also find a few remaining cockpit parts such as sidewall detail and the main seat part. Of note are a couple of parts here at the edge of the sprue, near the engines. The sprue here is cut-out and the delicate parts in that area have suffered some breakage and will need repair or re-fabrication. These parts concern the instrument panel mounting. Sprue G Here we have our last sprue, and this contains, amongst other things, a longer spinner version that that found on Sprue A. The instructions do state that either can be used, but you might want to look at reference photos of your specific machine before committing to either one. Other parts include replacement inner gear bay doors, alternative instrument panel section, under-cowl scoop, and two headrest parts as an alternative to the part on Sprue F. Resin parts Four casting blocks are supplied here, cast from medium-grey resin. Two of these hold the parts for the exhaust manifolds with nicely hollowed out ends, the engine intake and filter, and the last block holds a series of smaller parts. These are for the gunsight (two included), and the gun barrel stubs/muzzles. Casting is excellent, as you would expect from Special Hobby/CMK. Photo Etch This small fret contains the engine cowl louvres, multi-part pilot harness, interior canopy handle and elevator trim tab actuators. Again, production is excellent, and the belt details will look good under a coat of paint. Decals A single sheet, printed by Aviprint, contains decals for all national markings, serials, insignia, stencils and instrument panel gauges etc. Printing quality is very good, with solid and authentic colour, minimal carrier film and perfect register. The decals also look nice and thin too. There should be no error with these whatsoever as Radu Brinzan was involved with their design. I can certainly rest easy with that as Radu is the go-to guy when it comes to this machine. The four schemes supplied are: IAR-80A – "Anghel", Escadrila 47 Vanatoare, Grupul 9, Pipera, August 1942 IAR-80A – Escadrila 53 Vanatoare, Mamaïa, July 1942 IAR-80A – "Felicia", Escadrila 47 Vanatoare, Grupul 9, Pipera, Summer 1942 IAR-80A – "Mamy", Escadrila 47 Vanatoare, Grupul 9, Pipera, Summer 1942 Instructions I quite like Special Hobby's instructions format. They are clear, concise and the illustrations are easy to follow. This manual starts with a history of the type, followed by a parts map, indicating those components that aren't to be used. Constructions is broken down into 24 stages, with clear drawings guiding the way, and the use of colour illustration to highlight painting and parts placement. The last pages of the manual contain the scheme illustrations, with good, clear scheme depiction and decal location shown. Conclusion After the IAR-81C, I was thrilled to see the earlier pure fighter version of this kit being released. It has a swarthy appearance and was, by all accounts, on par with the Fw 190A/F series in terms of performance. This is a superbly detailed kit, but perhaps one that needs just a little more attention and skill than your standard off the shelf kit, due to the main airframe components and the alignment and clean-up required. In all though, this is a superb kit of an important and oft-forgotten fighter type, and Frrom-Azue/Special Hobby (with Radu) have given it the attention it truly deserves. For the price, with both PE and resin, this is a very attractive package. All they need to do is fix the break in the sprue on F, that causes those two parts to fracture. Highly recommended. My sincere thanks to Special Hobby for sending out this review sample to us. To purchase directly, click THIS link.
iar80
Largescale IAR 81C Coming Soon
JeroenPeters posted a topic in Modelling Discussion
Yup... here we go! The reason Radu stalled his IAR... http://aeroscale.kitmaker.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=News&file=article&sid=14223 Keen to see this one up close. I'm sure Radu's resin version would have been the bomb...


Geneva Pharmacy in George now offers the most natural slimming and weight loss revolution that help you lose weight quickly. The Mesoslim injections dissolve fat cells in your body. Treatments are focused on the problem areas and you can take as many sessions as you want. It is completely safe and there are no side effects.
During one session we 5ml of Mesoslim, a sophisticated lipolytic solution is injected. 1ml dissolves between 50,000 and 100,000 fat cells. A session lasts 10 to 15 minutes. This method is very successful and provides fantastic results.
Contact Geneva Pharmacy in George for more information and to make your appointment.


text:
Netflix Soars on Strong Domestic and International Subscriber Gains
There had been concerns that the price increase instituted last quarter might have dampened subscriber growth. Not anymore.
Danny Vena
(TMFLifeIsGood)
Jan 25, 2018 at 6:31PM
Daniel W. Vena, CPA, CGMA is a long-term investor searching for intangibles that provide explosive growth opportunities in his investments. He served on active duty with the US Army and has a Bachelor's degree in accounting. Follow @dannyvena
Follow @dannyvena
Going into Netflix, Inc.'s (NASDAQ:NFLX) fourth-quarter and full-year 2017 financial report, the big question on everyone's mind was subscriber growth. In early October, Netflix announced that it would raise prices on its most popular plans. The standard plan, which allows two concurrent streams and includes HD, increased by $1 to $10.99 per month, while the premium plan, which includes four streams and Ultra HD, increased to $13.99, up $2.
While some worried that the move would stunt subscriber growth, at the time of the announcement, I wrote: "Even after the price increase, Netflix is still the best streaming deal out there, and I believe the subscribers will just keep coming." It looks like many other subscribers felt the same way.
Netflix original Bright was a hit with subscribers. Image source: Netflix.
Content drives massive subscriber increases
In the most compelling argument yet that the company's content strategy is working, Netflix reported subscriber growth that vastly exceeded its already-ambitious forecast. Domestic subscribers grew 1.98 million to 54.75 million, an increase of 10.7% year over year. This growth significantly outpaced Netflix's forecast for 1.25 million new domestic subscribers. International subscribers grew by 6.35 million to 62.83 million, an increase of 41.6% year over year. This also flew past Netflix's guidance of 5.05 million new international subs.
This impressive customer growth translated to better-than-expected financial results. Revenue grew to $3.286 billion, up 32.6% year over year. This exceeded analysts' consensus estimates of $3.28 billion and Netflix's own forecast of $3.274 billion. Net income of $186 million soared 178% year over year, edging past Netflix's goal of $183 million. Earnings per share also shined, surging to $0.41, an increase of 173% from the prior-year quarter, and meeting both analysts' and Netflix's own expectations for the quarter.
The average subscription price rose 9% year over year, as the recent price increases gradually began to take effect.
Netflix revealed that it had achieved a full-year international contribution profit. In its fourth-quarter and full-year report for 2016, Netflix said, "On a full-year basis, we expect international contribution loss to improve substantially year on year," so the company achieved this milestone ahead of schedule.
Netflix pointed out several interesting tidbits regarding its content. In its first month, Bright, a movie blending fantasy and crime, became one of the company's most viewed original titles ever. The company also pointed out that its original programs Stranger Things, 13 Reasons Why, and Iron Fist were among the top five most searched TV shows globally in 2017, taking the No. 1, No. 2, and No. 5 spots, respectively -- and held three of the top five for the second year running.
Netflix also stated that its free cash flow (FCF) for the year came in at negative $2 billion, and it expects to increase that metric to between negative $3.5 billion and negative $4 billion for 2018. The company has long said that it expects to be cash flow negative for years to come. There is light at the end of the tunnel, however. Making an appearance in a shareholder letter is this statement (emphasis mine): "We are increasing operating margins and expect that in the future, a combination of rising operating profits and slowing growth in original content spend will turn our business FCF positive."
For the first quarter of 2018, Netflix is forecasting revenue of $3.686 billion, which would represent 40% year-over-year growth. It expects net income of $282 million, an increase of 58% over the prior-year quarter. Netflix is also calling for net domestic subscriber additions of 1.45 million, while international subs are expected to add 4.9 million, for total subscriber gains of 6.35 million, in what is typically the company's seasonally slow first quarter. Netflix is also targeting a 10% operating margins for the full year, and stated that it now plans to spend between $7.5 billion and $8 billion on content in 2018.
Netflix may have believed that the price increases instituted last quarter would have a negative impact on new customer signups, but its actual subscriber growth has put those fears to rest.

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaCommonCrawl


text:
Find The Best Marketing and Advertising Agencies in Qatar
Where Anywhere Egypt Saudi Arabia United Arab Emirates Qatar Bahrain Australia Canada United Kingdom India Iraq Kuwait Lebanon Libya
Total Service
Total Agencies
Hire the best matching
Most popular services in your area
Social Media Agencies
Strategy - Business Consulting
Whatsapp Marketing
Search Engine Optimization ( SEO )
Google ads.
Development & software houses
Booths - kiosk
Business and Trade Events
Ushering services
New year decoration
virtual events management
exhibition stands builders
Production & promotional gifts
packaging companies
Summer Giveaways products
New year's giveaways
Ramadan Giveaways
Summer Giveaways
TV Commercial production
live streaming broadcast
documentary film
Social Media Video Production
live streaming broadcast services
Radio productions
3D graphic designs
ui and ux design
Copy-writing
Online Web based data entry
Live chat assistant
Interactive IVR
Are you Startup ?
Join our Outstanding
Program for Startups
And Get 50 % discount
Join our Outstanding Program for Startups And Get 50% discount
Top Clients Found The Best Matching Agencies Through Entasher
Dar Al Sahra energy services
Top Agencies
If you are searching for the top Advertising Agency so you are now in the right place, Entasher.com listed the top advertising agencies after verifying all
Vibes Web Design Company In Qatar
Qatar - Qatar
intelligence qatar
Doha - Pearl Qatar
mnm agency
Taqnia Creative Agency
apexqatar
Trans Media International
fischer appelt
dunes gifts and more
Working in an agency?
Get exposed
to thousands of
clients for
Get exposed to thousands of clients for free
Browse hundreds of projects done by registered agencies
Find your perfect agency to get work done easily
Browse Hundreds of services providers
You can compare between all desired agencies to get the best choice you want in no time!
Download agencies companies profiles
Browse thousands of Billboards locations and book them directly
Browse thousands of Advertising indoor locations and book them directly
Browse Hundreds of websites, mobile apps and request submitting articles and ads
Browse Thousands of Projects filtered by service types posted by registered agencies
Request service quotations from service providers
Keep updated with Agencies news and latest market trends
Submit Tenders to get the best offers from service providers
List your agency profile for free and Reach Hundreds of clients every day
Customize your own company page
Upload works, collect and showcase reviews from your customers.
Upload your company profiles to be easily downloaded by thousands of customers worldwide.
Track your profile performance.
receive clients' services requests.
Add your client's list.
Submit your latest news articles.
Add Billboards, indoor advertising spots, websites, magazines, and Mobile apps to receive requests from clients.
Receive tenders from clients.
Keep updated with the recent agencies news, marketing and advertising trends
Streamlining E-Invoicing and Ensuring Compliance in Saudi Arabia with Our Microsoft 365...
E-invoicing has become a crucial aspect of doing business in Saudi Arabia, as the General Authority...
Entasher.com
Entasher services marketplace enables agencies to sell their services directly through the...
Entasher to organize the biggest exhibition for software companies and tech providers in Egypt
As a small business owner, you know that every penny counts. You also know that in order to grow...
GoDaddy is the world's largest services platform for entrepreneurs around the globe. Its...
Cambridge education group launch digital advertising campaign in Cairo streets by...
A new digital billboard advertising Campaign by Cambridge education group in Cairo street promoting...
concentrix started a billboard campaign in Alexandria Egypt to promote that they are currently...
In collaboration with entasher.com the organizers are preparing to launch the "Om Al-Arousa"...
بالمملكة العربية السعودية أكثر من 20 شركة للهدايا الدعائية نحصر لكم افضل و أقوي الشركات التي تقدم...
Most popular agencies near you
Never has it been so easy to find the perfect agency for your project.
Request a call now from one of our experts
Country Code +20 (Egypt) +966 (Saudi Arabia) +971 (United Arab Emirates) +974 (Qatar) +973 (Bahrain) +376 (Andorra) +93 (Afghanistan) +1-268 (Antigua and Barbuda) +1-264 (Anguilla) +355 (Albania) +374 (Armenia) +244 (Angola) +672 (Antarctica) +54 (Argentina) +1-684 (American Samoa) +43 (Austria) +61 (Australia) +297 (Aruba) +994 (Azerbaijan) +387 (Bosnia and Herzegovina) +1-246 (Barbados) +880 (Bangladesh) +32 (Belgium) +226 (Burkina Faso) +359 (Bulgaria) +257 (Burundi) +229 (Benin) +1-441 (Bermuda) +673 (Brunei) +591 (Bolivia) +55 (Brazil) +1-242 (Bahamas) +975 (Bhutan) +267 (Botswana) +375 (Belarus) +501 (Belize) +1 (Canada) +61 (Cocos [Keeling] Islands) +243 (Democratic Republic of the Congo) +236 (Central African Republic) +242 (Republic of the Congo) +41 (Switzerland) +225 (Ivory Coast) +682 (Cook Islands) +56 (Chile) +237 (Cameroon) +86 (China) +57 (Colombia) +506 (Costa Rica) +53 (Cuba) +238 (Cape Verde) +53 (Christmas Island) +357 (Cyprus) +420 (Czech Republic) +49 (Germany) +253 (Djibouti) +45 (Denmark) +1-767 (Dominica) +1-809 (Dominican Republic) +1-829 (Dominican Republic) +213 (Algeria) +593 (Ecuador) +372 (Estonia) +291 (Eritrea) +34 (Spain) +251 (Ethiopia) +358 (Finland) +679 (Fiji) +500 (Falkland Islands) +691 (Micronesia) +298 (Faroe Islands) +33 (France) +241 (Gabon) +44 (United Kingdom) +1-473 (Grenada) +995 (Georgia) +594 (French Guiana) +233 (Ghana) +350 (Gibraltar) +299 (Greenland) +220 (Gambia) +224 (Guinea) +590 (Guadeloupe) +240 (Equatorial Guinea) +30 (Greece) +502 (Guatemala) +1-671 (Guam) +245 (Guinea-Bissau) +592 (Guyana) +852 (Hong Kong) +504 (Honduras) +385 (Croatia) +509 (Haiti) +36 (Hungary) +62 (Indonesia) +353 (Ireland) +972 (Israel) +91 (India) +964 (Iraq) +98 (Iran) +354 (Iceland) +39 (Italy) +1-876 (Jamaica) +962 (Jordan) +81 (Japan) +254 (Kenya) +996 (Kyrgyzstan) +855 (Cambodia) +686 (Kiribati) +269 (Comoros) +1-869 (Saint Kitts and Nevis) +850 (North Korea) +82 (South Korea) +965 (Kuwait) +1-345 (Cayman Islands) +7 (Kazakhstan) +856 (Laos) +961 (Lebanon) +1-758 (Saint Lucia) +423 (Liechtenstein) +94 (Sri Lanka) +231 (Liberia) +266 (Lesotho) +370 (Lithuania) +352 (Luxembourg) +371 (Latvia) +218 (Libya) +212 (Morocco) +377 (Monaco) +373 (Moldova) +261 (Madagascar) +692 (Marshall Islands) +389 (Macedonia) +223 (Mali) +95 (Myanmar [Burma]) +976 (Mongolia) +853 (Macao) +1-670 (Northern Mariana Islands) +596 (Martinique) +222 (Mauritania) +1-664 (Montserrat) +356 (Malta) +230 (Mauritius) +960 (Maldives) +265 (Malawi) +52 (Mexico) +60 (Malaysia) +258 (Mozambique) +264 (Namibia) +687 (New Caledonia) +227 (Niger) +672 (Norfolk Island) +234 (Nigeria) +505 (Nicaragua) +31 (Netherlands) +47 (Norway) +977 (Nepal) +674 (Nauru) +683 (Niue) +64 (New Zealand) +968 (Oman) +507 (Panama) +51 (Peru) +689 (French Polynesia) +675 (Papua New Guinea) +63 (Philippines) +92 (Pakistan) +48 (Poland) +508 (Saint Pierre and Miquelon) +1-787 (Puerto Rico) +1-939 (Puerto Rico) +970 (Palestine) +351 (Portugal) +680 (Palau) +595 (Paraguay) +262 (Réunion) +40 (Romania) +7 (Russia) +250 (Rwanda) +677 (Solomon Islands) +248 (Seychelles) +249 (Sudan) +46 (Sweden) +65 (Singapore) +290 (Saint Helena) +386 (Slovenia) +421 (Slovakia) +232 (Sierra Leone) +378 (San Marino) +221 (Senegal) +252 (Somalia) +597 (Suriname) +239 (São Tomé and Príncipe) +503 (El Salvador) +963 (Syria) +268 (Swaziland) +1-649 (Turks and Caicos Islands) +235 (Chad) +66 (Thailand) +992 (Tajikistan) +690 (Tokelau) +993 (Turkmenistan) +216 (Tunisia) +676 (Tonga) +90 (Turkey) +1-868 (Trinidad and Tobago) +688 (Tuvalu) +886 (Taiwan) +255 (Tanzania) +380 (Ukraine) +256 (Uganda) +1 (United States) +598 (Uruguay) +998 (Uzbekistan) +418 (Vatican City) +1-784 (Saint Vincent and the Grenadines) +58 (Venezuela) +1-284 (U.S. Virgin Islands) +84 (Vietnam) +678 (Vanuatu) +681 (Wallis and Futuna) +685 (Samoa) +967 (Yemen) +269 (Mayotte) +27 (South Africa) +260 (Zambia) +263 (Zimbabwe)


I need someone also. Need a lower end rebuilt on a Sportsman 800 and can't afford for the dealership to do it.
Hey Viper give my buddy a call 614-317-6178 his name is Pat. He is up if you want to call tonight.
Bryan knows a guy too but not sure of his name.
Mcbrides here has done my work but I haven't had anything major but they have always treated me right.
Yeap, I've got a really good guy in Blue Springs, MO. If anybody's interested just shoot me a PM.
Electric guru? I still not certain if I want to upgrade cb ignition or repair..


text:
// Copyright (c) Microsoft.  All Rights Reserved.  Licensed under the Apache License, Version 2.0.  See License.txt in the project root for license information.

using System;
using System.Runtime.InteropServices;
using Microsoft.CodeAnalysis;
using Microsoft.VisualStudio.LanguageServices.Implementation.CodeModel.Collections;
using Microsoft.VisualStudio.LanguageServices.Implementation.Interop;
using Microsoft.VisualStudio.LanguageServices.Implementation.Utilities;

namespace Microsoft.VisualStudio.LanguageServices.Implementation.CodeModel.ExternalElements
{
    [ComVisible(true)]
    [ComDefaultInterface(typeof(EnvDTE.CodeStruct))]
    public sealed class ExternalCodeStruct : AbstractExternalCodeType, EnvDTE80.CodeStruct2, EnvDTE.CodeStruct
    {
        internal static EnvDTE.CodeStruct Create(CodeModelState state, ProjectId projectId, ITypeSymbol typeSymbol)
        {
            var element = new ExternalCodeStruct(state, projectId, typeSymbol);
            return (EnvDTE.CodeStruct)ComAggregate.CreateAggregatedObject(element);
        }

        private ExternalCodeStruct(CodeModelState state, ProjectId projectId, ITypeSymbol typeSymbol)
            : base(state, projectId, typeSymbol)
        {
        }

        public override EnvDTE.vsCMElement Kind
        {
            get { return EnvDTE.vsCMElement.vsCMElementStruct; }
        }

        public EnvDTE80.vsCMDataTypeKind DataTypeKind
        {
            get
            {
                return EnvDTE80.vsCMDataTypeKind.vsCMDataTypeKindMain;
            }

            set
            {
                throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
            }
        }

        public override EnvDTE.CodeElements ImplementedInterfaces
        {
            get { return ExternalTypeCollection.Create(this.State, this, this.ProjectId, TypeSymbol.AllInterfaces); }
        }

        public new bool IsAbstract
        {
            get { return base.IsAbstract; }
            set { throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail(); }
        }

        public bool IsGeneric
        {
            get { throw new NotImplementedException(); }
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeElements Parts
        {
            get { throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail(); }
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeClass AddClass(string name, object position, object bases, object implementedInterfaces, EnvDTE.vsCMAccess access)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeDelegate AddDelegate(string name, object type, object position, EnvDTE.vsCMAccess access)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeEnum AddEnum(string name, object position, object bases, EnvDTE.vsCMAccess access)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeFunction AddFunction(string name, EnvDTE.vsCMFunction kind, object type, object position, EnvDTE.vsCMAccess access, object location)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeInterface AddImplementedInterface(object @base, object position)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeProperty AddProperty(string getterName, string putterName, object type, object position, EnvDTE.vsCMAccess access, object location)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeStruct AddStruct(string name, object position, object bases, object implementedInterfaces, EnvDTE.vsCMAccess access)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public EnvDTE.CodeVariable AddVariable(string name, object type, object position, EnvDTE.vsCMAccess access, object location)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public EnvDTE80.CodeEvent AddEvent(string name, string fullDelegateName, bool createPropertyStyleEvent, object location, EnvDTE.vsCMAccess access)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }

        public void RemoveInterface(object element)
        {
            throw Exceptions.ThrowEFail();
        }
    }
}

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaGithub


Layout wiring is fairly well documented, and pretty simple when you come right down to it. But I think it's worth restating some of the basic concepts as part of this section, as this is what I used as the basis of my own layout wiring described in the Electrical Systems subsection of my Model Railroad section. For a discussion of many of the issues in depth, see Allen Gartner's site on Wiring for DCC.
One word of warning: DCC uses low voltage, so it's not typically subject to the same regulations as household wiring. But it is high-current AC power, and in a short circuit this will produce a lot of each (enough to melt rails or weld things to them if the circuit breaker doesn't work!). Working with DCC power systems, particularly the larger ones with 5 Amp supplies, isn't something to approach carelessly, nor is it something younger children should do unsupervised (a simple plug-and-play all-in-one DCC system isn't really the same thing, as it uses much lower maximum current).
Additionally, I am not an electrician or an electrical engineer. What I have written here is what I believe, and what has worked for me. But make your own choices and use at your own risk.
There are many important or useful tools when building and wiring a model railroad, and I'll note a few below, but let me remind you of two I consider essential to anyone building a DCC model railroad of any size or complexity.
A Good Multimeter - In general the digital ones are better, but an analog meter can work. Buy a good one if you can; you'll only end up replacing a cheap one later. At a minimum for track wiring this needs to measure DC on a 0 - 20 volt scale (having a larger range is better), and resistance on a 0 - 50 Ohm scale (most meters will have a much wider set of resistance ranges). Other ranges aren't really useful for track wiring, but can be for other things. I have a meter than can measure current in milliamps, and I use that for a lot of things.
A DCC Specialties RRampMeter - This measures both voltage in current in DCC wiring, which a multimeter can't do very well. You can certainly get by without one of these. You can get by without your left hand too, but would you do so voluntarily? If you want to know what's really getting to any given spot on the track, or the track bus, this is a very handy tool for understanding that. And it will help a lot in tracking down power problems. The model that comes with an enclosure and test leads (model II) is the one I prefer. The version with battery backup (model III) can be useful if you also work on DC layouts, as the normal kind won't work if track voltage drops below 7 volts.
First off, you need electricity. You can just plug your DCC command station into a wall outlet when in use. That's all you need for a simple layout. But for something larger you're going to have a bunch of things to wire up. If you can, connect these all to one wall outlet (unless you hit the limits of that outlet's circuit breaker) as this avoids any potential issues with ground loops. If you can't do that, at least make sure all the devices sharing a ground line (DCC command stations, boosters and things like DCC circuit breakers) all connect to a power strip, or strips, connected to one outlet. That's not critical for things without a grounded plug, but it's still probably a good idea.
Second, if you don't unplug things when not in use (and you may not want to, as some devices, like wireless throttles, need continuous power to keep from running batteries down) then split your devices into two groups: those that have to stay on, and those you can turn off, and plug the latter into a power strip with a switch, so you can turn off the whole layout. This avoids running up your electrical bill (those wall-wart transformers use electricity even when the devices connected to them are turned off, and the same can also be true of individual devices with power cords). It may also help protect them against power surges due to lightning, although as long as something's plugged in, even if it's turned off, there is often a path for a nearby lightning strike to affect equipment; power switches can't cut the ground wire, and typically only cut one of the two power wires.
Finally, buy a good surge protector and connect all the power strips to it (or, if you want to spend more money, buy surge-protected power strips instead, but get good ones with a high rating for the number of Joules absorbed and with all three lines (hot, neutral and ground) protected. This way you'll at least be protected from some power problems. But if you live in an area subject to lots of lightning, don't count on the surge protector to save you; unplug the things that cost a lot when not in use, and unplug everything if you can (a nearby lightning strike can find its way through any conductor, so if some devices are plugged in, it could get to others through the track).
I'm a particular fan of Tripp-Lite's premium Isobar line of surge protectors. The IBAR4 isn't cheap at around US$50, but it handles surges of up to 3330 Joules in its current version, and has a metal case to contain any flames from a really serious surge that melts the protector circuitry, plus a heavy power cord that will be safe up to the full 15 Amp rating. It also has a lighted switch, so you can be sure if it's on or off in dark under-the-layout installations, and mounting holes on the back so you can attach it to the layout structure with a few screws. I have a couple of these on my layout, but in a hard-to-photograph location. There are other good brands out there, and what really matters is having a good surge protector, not the specific kind.
My layout uses a larger Isobar for the computer and several "always on" things (mainly the supply used by the throttles to keep from running their internal batteries down), into which is also plugged a smaller Isobar with a switch, positioned where I can easily reach it. A long power strip (a four-foot strip with a dozen outlets) is connected to that, and all of the rest of my systems plug into the long strip. Thus, when I throw the switch on the small Isobar, the whole layout other than the computer and the keep-alive power for my throttles shuts down.
Image likely Copyright by Tripp-Lite, but it didn't say.
Always use stranded wire, it's more flexible and easier to work with than solid wire, and will last longer in places where it does have to flex. The only exception might be in track feeders, where it can be easier to solder thin solid wire to rail, but even there stranded probably wins. The size of the wire will vary (see below). And since we're handling low voltages, nearly any kind of insulation will do (house wiring wire for AC power has very heavy and rigid insulation to handle high voltage, and can be problematic to work with; it may still be a good choice for long runs like track power bus wiring if you can get it cheap).
As a general rule for DCC: don't use wire smaller than 22 gauge unless you know it will be carrying less than the full output of the power supply, and keep in mind that in a short-circuit, like a tool dropped across the rails, any wire without its own circuit breaker could be carrying the full load. If you have a smaller DCC system rated for 3A (like a Zephyr), the magic number is 24 gauge. In both cases, for runs of more than a few feet, using heavier wire is a good idea.
You'd think wire was wire, but it isn't. I cover this in more detail in my Wire section, but here's a quick overview.
Wire sold for household wiring comes in solid and stranded forms, and this is also true of some other kinds. Stranded wire is more flexible and will survive more flexing without breaking than solid wire. It's almost always preferable.
Household wiring also has thick insulation, for handling high-voltage power for decades safely. That makes the wire harder to bend, and physically larger, than some other kinds.
Finally, house wiring is often made from aluminum rather than copper, to save money. Aluminum doesn't conduct electricity as well, and you can get in big trouble if you connect aluminum wire directly to brass or copper fittings. It can be used, but it needs to be used with care (and how is a more in-depth topic than I'll cover; consult a home-improvement book that covers electrical wiring, as that's something they need to describe).
Wire designed for lower voltages comes in several forms, known as primary wire, hookup wire and speaker wire (aka zip cord). Avoid using zip-cord: it's often cheaply made and hard to work with if you use things like crimp connectors.
Hookup and primary wire both use thinner insulation than house wiring, but still plenty for the voltages used in DCC. This makes it easier to work with and easier to run in cramped locations under a model railroad. Most of this wire will be copper, but some cheaper wire is aluminum. And some high-quality hookup wire is pre-tinned, so it looks like aluminum but isn't. Primary wire tends to be available in the same large gauges as house wiring, making it a good choice for a power bus or other wire carrying the full output of a command station or booster any distance. You can get it from home supply and marine supply stores. Hookup wire is smaller, and useful for track feeders. You can get a limited selection of it in Radio Shack, although much more (and better prices for bulk) will be had from online specialty dealers.
I use stranded copper primary wire for most of my track power bus now (some parts were done with house wire), and good-quality copper hookup wire for track feeders and wiring from my circuit breakers to the track feeders.
There are two reasons wire size matters. The first is safety: wire has a maximum current it can carry before melting, which is based on its size and composition. In general, wire of 22 ga or larger (smaller gauge numbers) is safe for 5 amp currents between a booster and circuit-breaker, and wire of 24 ga or larger is safe for 3 amp currents, the most you'd normally have in one circuit-breaker section (it's also the limit for Unitrack). A lot depends on what you consider "normal" room temperature and how well (or how badly) wires can be cooled by air circulation. For this reason, almost every table listing the relevant numbers is different, because a different set of assumptions went into it. I'm using a fairly conservative table (see below) as my source for the above, to provide a safety margin.
12 ga: R = 1.932 Ω / 1000 ft, Loss @ 5 Amp = 0.0097 volts/ft.
16 ga: R = 4.884 Ω / 1000 ft, Loss @ 5 Amp = 0.0244 volts/ft.
18 ga: R = 7.767 Ω / 1000 ft, Loss @ 5 Amp = 0.0388 volts/ft.
20 ga: R = 12.349 Ω / 1000 ft, Loss @ 5 Amp = 0.0617 volts/ft.
22 ga: R = 19.636 Ω / 1000 ft, Loss @ 5 Amp = 0.0982 volts/ft.
24 ga: R = 31.223 Ω / 1000 ft, Loss @ 5 Amp = 0.1561 volts/ft, or 1.5 volts every 10 feet.
If you only started with 12 volts, and you need 7 to run the train (and you'll lose some in the track), it doesn't take many feet of thin wire to cause a problem. This is why it's a good idea to use wire of heavier gauge for the DCC power bus.
Resistance and other basic figures from a table derated for high-temperatures (i.e., normal loss won't be as bad, but may approach this due to wire heating from extended use) from this page. Also, resistance is doubled to reflect the "out and back" nature of the wiring, so a "foot" here is a foot of distance from the source, not a foot of copper. I've used other ampacity tables at times (like this one).
In general, ampacity tables give two sizes: the size allowed where the wire is in open air (called "chassis" wiring in the linked table) and the size used where it's in a closed environment like a conduit (called "transmission" wiring in the linked table). So, for open air wiring carrying 5 Amps, 22 gauge is the minimum. Likewise 24 gauge can carry 3 Amps. Unless you bury all your wire inside the layout material, you can use the open air number.
Online tables are really designed for high-voltage power wiring, and DCC is a somewhat different environment. I have been working on my own ampacity table, although at present it's still based on other tables. Over time I expect to refine it for conditions more specific to model railroading.
Some people like to solder all connectors. That's a good idea for things that are hard to reach and won't ever need to be changed, like feeder wires where they connect to the track. I'm less convinced it's a good idea elsewhere. Two useful ways of connecting wire to other wire are terminal strips with spade lugs, and insulation displacement "suitcase" connectors. You can get both terminal strips and crimp-on lugs at Radio Shack or a home supply store. Use #6 lugs with Radio Shack strips, and typically #8 lugs with the larger home-supply strips. You need to get lugs sized for the size (gauge) of wire used as well. It seems that these are color-coded, with blue being for 14-16 gauge wire and red being for 16-22 gauge, but that may be the particular suppliers I use (two of them have the same convention though).
Spade lugs will work well with wire with a variety of different insulation thicknesses, since they crimp onto the bare copper. Thus these can work with typical house wiring type wire, with "primary wire" and with "hook-up wire". And I use them will all three kinds. The one thing they aren't very good with is solid wire; they're much more reliable when used with stranded wire. When I have to use solid wire, I generally just loop it around a screw on a terminal strip, or solder it to something, and don't use crimp-on lugs with it at all.
Crimp-on lugs work without soldering to the wire because the pressure of their crimping creates an oxygen-free metal-to-metal bond that can't corrode (corrosion of the exposed wire can still happen, but it won't work its way into the bond unless you're operating in exceptionally corrosion-prone environments, like on a ship. That's also why lugs on a properly screwed down terminal strip work: a oxygen-free joint between metal created by pressure.
You can put two wires into one lug's crimp connector if they aren't the heaviest gauge allowed, and this is handy when you want to connect a bunch of feeders to one distribution wire (you can see a couple of those in the image below).
It's a really good idea to use spade lugs and terminal strips that are a shiny silver in color, rather than the golden-color of brass. This is because the shiny ones are made with tin or some other material plated with tin, and won't corrode as easily or as seriously as brass will. In a damp basement, brass gets covered with an insulating layer of corrosion in a couple of years, and that's not good.
BTW, if you are going to use lugs, you'll use hundreds of them, so buy bulk packs of 100 to get the lowest cost. Invest in a high-quality crimping tool (for insulated and non-insulated wire) like this one. I have essentially that model bought from a local home-supply store, and it was worth every penny. Your hands will thank you.
Kato Track Feeders (top) wiring to a terminal strip with bus wire taps using spade lugs.
Terminal strips and crimp lugs come in two sizes useful for the size of wire typically used in a model railroad. The #8 connector is larger, and more suitable to the heavy-gauge wire used in a track power bus. The #6 connector is smaller, and preferable for the wire typically used in lighting or track feeders. Radio Shack is a good source for the #6 size, while the #8 is typically found in home supply stores or from specialty electronics suppliers.
One thing that's really useful with the Radio Shack strips (I haven't found a good equivalent for the larger ones) are something they call Jumper Strips. These are simple strips of metal that slip under the screw on one side, and are connected to bridge several adjacent screws together. This is useful for splitting one output into several. You need a good set of "diagonal cutting pliers" to separate these (and safety glasses; the cut bits are heavy, sharp, and tend to go flying) although flexing them with ordinary pliers may work eventually. You can do the same with loops of wire (with or without spade lugs) or one wire that has several spade lugs on it (actually several short wires crimped into the lugs to act as one longer one). In the diagram further down the page, the "distribution wiring" terminal strip next to the circuit breaker assumes this kind of interconnection.
Suitcase connectors are designed to tap into a wire. They have one slot that slips over the wire, and a second slot with a cap on one end where you feed in a second wire, then you crimp a steel pin down (using a pair of pliers or similar) and snap the connector closed. The 3M company made the originals of these under the brand Scotchlok (although there are now a number of different types of connectors under that brand) and you can find copies by others now. Typically these are color-coded based on the wire gauge, with yellow used for 10 or 12 gauge, brown used for a 18-14 gauge tap off a 12 gauge through wire, blue for a 16-18 gauge tap off a 14 gauge through wire, and red for 16-22 gauge wire (but individual manufacturers or models may vary, be sure before you buy). There are specialty tools for crimping these, but a good pair of pliers will do the job if used with care (I still destroy the occasional connector). Sometimes I regret not buying a better tool, but I use a lot fewer suitcase connectors than lugs, and the tool was expensive.
One important note: suitcase connectors assume the wire is a certain size, and almost all of these are sized for wire with the heavy insulation typical of house wiring or "primary wire". If you use low-voltage "hook-up wire" this is often much smaller, because which the copper is the same thickness, the insulation is much thinner. This may not work as well (or at all) with suitcase connectors. I only use high-voltage house wire and primary wire with suitcase connectors, and I use terminal strips and spade lugs for all my hook-up wire.
In DCC, there are several kinds of electronics. The most important one is the Command Station, also sometimes called the DCC supply. This is the box that either incorporates a throttle or to which throttles are connected (or both). Additionally it usually incorporates a DCC Booster (aka Power Station) to amplify the DCC signal from the minimum 1 Volt (used to communicate with other boosters) to the 7 - 23 Volt signal required on the rails (typically around 12-18V). And it will always incorporate one circuit breaker, to protect trains on the track from a short-circuit.
But in addition to the command station, there can be one or more additional boosters (to provide power for more trains without using very high amperage out of one power supply). Boosters will normally incorporate a circuit breaker as well. Each booster needs to be connected to the command station to receive the DCC signal and to a ground line shared with the command station and any other boosters. Some other devices may connect to this ground as well, as noted below.
Finally, there are related devices that have a role in getting power to the track. These include Circuit Breakers, Automatic Reversers (related to the circuit breaker and sometimes the same device can act as either) and Occupancy Detectors. There are many other DCC devices (e.g. stationary controllers for turnouts) that aren't part of the power system, but which may connect to it either directly or via the track. I won't discuss those non-power devices here.
Wiring between the Command Station and the track can be as simple as a single pair of wires connected directly to the track, appropriate for a simple layout. In a more complex layout, more complex wiring is often needed or provides an advantage even if not strictly needed.
The diagram above shows a command station and booster used to power four sections of track. A section can be any length, although 6' (2m) is a reasonable upper limit if you divide a layout up like this. That doesn't mean that you need to do this the minute you have six feet of track. But you'll see a clear benefit if you have even twenty feet of track or if you want to run multiple trains with shorter amounts of track.
Preferably the command station and any boosters will connect to their own "track bus": a pair of heavy-gauge wires that follow the tracks, and track feeders will either connect directly to them (via suitcase connectors, soldered joints, or terminal strips) or connect to intermediate devices that connect to the track bus. Note in particular that the bus for each power supply is separate, but that the ground line is continuous, but only needed normally by the Circuit Breaker and Command Station & Booster, although some Occupancy Detectors also need a ground connection. Also, as things like Occupancy Detectors normally only sense one wire, the rail with the other wire doesn't always require a gap (more on this below). The rail connected to the red wire in this example needs a gap between all four track sections.
Note: the words "section", "block" and similar may have specific meaning to an individual DCC systems manufacturer (and vary between them), and often have other meanings in model railroading or real railroading (e.g., a track detection block or a signaling block). I'm not going to go into all those here, but be aware of whose document you are reading and what they mean by the term, and don't confuse it with what someone else may mean. Here I'm going to use "track section" to mean a length of rail with a gap at each end in at least one rail, and "electrical section" to mean a set of devices and associated rails. In the diagram above, B and C form one electrical section because they share a circuit breaker and distribution wiring.
In some cases one section of track may benefit from having more than one feeder to a rail. This can be necessary with switches, for example, where a rail may be isolated by the frog of the switch. In some cases the switch will bridge the gap internally. But in others the rail will need to be fed power separately on both sides. Both feeders could wire together to the bus as shown above for "D", but they could also both wire to one occupancy detector, if you wanted to treat both sides of the switch as one "occupancy block" for some reason. Or you could wire them to two separate detectors, as shown for A and B (assuming that the gap between them is at the switch).
There will be one or more DCC power supplies, usually a command station with an integrated booster, and optionally separate boosters. Each supply will connect to a separate set of track sections. As mentioned previously, a simple approach is fine for smaller layouts, but as things get bigger, a power bus (also called a track bus or track power bus) will make things easier to wire up and to fix. Note that if you have more than one supply, by definition you have more than one power bus and in general it is a good idea to keep them totally separate. The two supplies should be connected via a ground wire as large as the bus wire (that's called "booster common" wiring, Digitrax uses the name "home ground" to mean the same thing; the alternative is "common rail" wiring, used on some DC layouts, but not recommended between boosters for DCC).
Note that you can use "common rail" wiring between one command station and the feeders, the recommendation above just applies to multiple power supplies. Since you still need the heavy-gauge track bus wire for each rail, and you'll typically have just the pair of them, unlike a DC layout where each electrical block had a separate wire back to a control panel, there's less advantage to common-rail wiring for DCC. There may be other reasons to avoid common-rail wiring; see the feeder discussion below for more on this. The main reason to use common rail wiring is when converting a pre-DCC layout, most of which used common-rail wiring, to DCC. Using common-rail wiring for DCC avoids having to add gaps in the common rail and extra wires.
If you have a power bus, the thickness of the wire (wire gauge) depends on several factors. Thicker wires (smaller gauge numbers) are better, up to a point. But you need to take into account how you wire to them. For example, things like "suitcase connectors" can dictate wire gauge: I use a 14-gauge bus tapped with blue suitcase connectors and 16-gauge distribution wiring, in part because that made it easy to find the connectors. The other factor that controls gauge is power loss (and for really small wires, maximum current).
In a power bus, distances are long, so the most important factor is power loss. At the 5 Amp maximum typical of most indoor DCC layouts, 14 gauge is fine, and 16 gauge will work for smaller layouts. If you're doing very long runs, or using higher-amperage supplies, heavier wiring (like 12 gauge) may be a good idea. The Wiring for DCC site has a discussion of this, as well as more info about power (voltage) loss in wire. I now have some further discussion on this on my Ampacity page.
While two independent wires are easiest to work with, over a long distance they can help distort a DCC signal, due to inductance created by the wire. Some sites recommend twisting the wires together (or using pre-twisted wire, although that's harder to tap for feeders). The standard doesn't require this, and rules-of-thumb seem to vary. I've seen numbers ranging from two to four twists per foot (meaning six to twelve per meter). When run separately, keeping them well apart (more than 4" or 10cm) can help avoid distortion to some extent. Twisting also helps make the wires less subject to acting as an antenna to pick up other noise. Note that untwisted zip cord (speaker wire) is probably the worst of both worlds; the wires aren't quite together, but they're very close, and the wire isn't twisted.
Note that you don't need to twist all of it. You really don't *NEED* to twist any of it. But the issues only affect long runs, so feeders and other short lengths of wire can be left untwisted even if you twist the power bus.
There are two kinds of ground wires, a "safety ground" is the kind found in typical home wiring, where it is designed to provide electricity a safe path to earth ground in the event of a short circuit, to prevent it from trying to get to ground through you. Electrical systems can also have a "floating ground" that's really just a way for all components to share the same idea of what "0 volts" means. Depending on the system, it may or may not be a good idea to connect a floating ground to a safety ground.
In DCC systems, a floating ground is used to connect DCC circuit breakers to each other and to the power supply, and to link multiple power supplies. This ground should use wire as heavy as the current-carrying wire (e.g. if wire to a circuit breaker is 16 gauge, use a 16 gauge ground wire there, if wire from a power supply is 14 gauge, use 14 gauge ground wire there). Digitrax says that their ground wire can be connected to your building's safety ground (and this will actually have some benefit, by allowing static electricity to drain from the system). Other manufacturers are likely similar, but you should consult their manual and reference pages to be sure. If you are connecting a device with an AC input to a safety ground, the wire used should be large enough for the maximum possible current permitted by the wall outlet (typically 15-20 Amps). That means 16 gauge or larger. I used 14 gauge wire for all of my ground wiring, except for short bits of 18-20 gauge used for the inputs to DCC circuit breakers that needed smaller wires.
It's a common convention to use green insulation (or green with yellow stripes) for ground wires, to make them obvious, and I did this when wiring my layout. But it's not required by law for layout wiring the way it is for high-power house wiring.
If you do want to connect to the building ground, you need to decide how to do that. Some electronics may have a grounded chassis (e.g., the Digitrax PS2012 does, and provides a screw location you can use to ground the command station; you do need to exercise some caution doing that). Alternatively, if you have copper water pipes, the cold water pipe is usually connected to ground and you can find straps for connecting wire to those in an electrical supply store. On a grounded outlet, the screw holding the faceplate on is typically grounded, so a wire with a lug on the end can be used there.
Note: wiring components to a safety ground isn't something to take lightly, as you could end up using that path for significant current in the event of a short circuit in the AC power supply. It's a good idea to use heavy (e.g., 14 ga or similar) wire. Also, there are potential safety issues, so if you aren't familiar with house wiring, it's a good idea to have an electrician do the work (if you can find one who will). In any case, that's something to do at your own risk.
If you have devices (like occupancy detectors) between the power supply and the track, you'll need some wire between them and the power bus, and possibly between them and the feeders. Although you may be able to wire the feeders directly to them, I find it easier to wire the feeders to terminal strips and run wires to those. This wire, which I'll call distribution wiring, should be kept as short as possible. What I do is tap the 14ga feeder (with a suitcase connector) and wire that to a terminal strip near the electronics, then I run lighter wire (typically 16 gauge) from the strip to the electronics and from the electronics to the terminal strips with the track feeders.
The 16ga wire from the suitcase-connector tap typically ends on a spade lug on a #8 terminal strip. The photo below shows my set of bus wires (I have more than one pair) tapped and connected to one terminal strip (mostly hidden under the wire), and short jumpers from this to a second strip at bottom right, to which the track feeders connect. This is an older photo, and the short distribution wires have been replaced by my circuit breakers and DCC occupancy detector systems on the current layout, which is why I kept these two terminal strips separate.
Note: the reason I have more than one pair is basically due to a misunderstanding as to how much power my trains would use when I designed the layout, coupled with extra pairs used for things like accessory power and my DC test track. You really only need one DCC power bus in any given section of the layout, and I'd do things differently if I were rewiring the layout today.
Distribution wiring may still need to carry the full 5-Amp supply. This means it needs to be 22 gauge or larger, and I typically use 16 gauge as it minimizes power loss while still being easy to work with. I've used 18, 20 or even 22 gauge in some places due to limitations on device connectors. As long as the wire is short, there is only a small amount of extra loss when using the smaller sizes. Just don't use wires smaller than 22 gauge (24 gauge for smaller 3 Amp DCC systems) unless you've got a circuit breaker set to limit current.
A track feeder is a wire connected directly to the rail, and commonly a pair of these connected to the two rails will be placed together. This needs to be done fairly often, as rail is actually a pretty poor conductor, and long lengths of it will lose a lot of power. Sectional track also loses power at each rail joiner. You'll see a notable loss of train speed in even 20' of track without additional feeders. Purists will say that a permanent layout with sectional track needs a feeder on each section, and to an extent that's good advice, as the connection at each joiner will get worse over time as dirt works its way into any gaps. You could also bridge those points with a short bit of wire soldered to the rail (which still allows the tracks to expand and contract due to temperature changes, unlike soldering the rail joiner itself). In any case, you probably need a new feeder every 3 - 6 feet to minimize voltage loss due to the rail itself.
Note: prototype rail often has wires connecting one length of rail to the next, as electrical continuity is important for signaling (and in electrical railroads for power grounding), so soldering a short length between rails and painting it the same rust color can be thought of as a modeling detail, as well as part of the electrical system.
You can add feeders without adding insulated rail gaps. For example if you want to provide power to multiple lengths of sectional track. You will need to add insulated gaps if you need to keep the two feeders separate. For example, if they have individual occupancy detectors or circuit breakers. You'll also need to have insulated gaps for things like reverse loops.
Feeders carry less current than most other wiring since they are located fairly often, meaning typically one train can be drawing power through them. They can potentially carry up to whatever your DCC circuit breaker is rated for during a short (the one on the command station could be rated up to 5 Amps or more, but a more likely size is around 2-3 Amps). Kato's feeders, like their Unitrack itself, are designed for a 3 Amp maximum current, and that's a reasonable size. If you're using one big 5 Amp command station, having DCC circuit breakers between it and the feeders set to trip at 3 Amps or less is a good idea. A feeder wire should be as short as possible, to minimize loss, and as small as possible, to make it easier to attach to the track and less obvious. As noted above, for 3 Amps the minimum size is 24 gauge, and that's usually a good choice.
When it comes to designing feeders, you don't even need to have insulated gaps in both rails most places you have gaps in one, although it is recommended. You can gap only one rail and have the other continuous (called "common rail" wiring), but this can be problematic for DCC and is mainly a technique for DC wiring (or converting a DC layout to DCC without lots of extra work), to reduce the amount of wire. Even with common rail, some things like reversing sections and separate DCC booster sections need both rails gapped.
When gapping a rail, be sure to plug the gap, otherwise rail may expand in warmer weather until the two bits touch. When I wired up flex track on my old HO layout, I'd superglue a bit of 0.010" strip plastic into a gap (using thick "gap filling" glue), and then cut away excess after the glue fully set using a pair of modeler's flush-cutting pliers (sprue cutters). I did this before painting the track, so the insulator would be indistinguishable from the rail after painting. You can also use insulating rail joiners between sections of track. With Unitrack, I just use the insulating Unijoiners.
In DC, Common Rail Wiring was a useful technique for blocks. Every power supply had one side connected to the "common" line and one rail was connected to this (and not gapped). The second rail was connected to individual wires back to a control panel, and gapped between feeders. This allowed for independent control of each electrical block, while minimizing wiring. With DCC you don't need that wire back to a control panel, which eliminates much of the benefit of common rail wiring. You can still do it, and it's handy when converting a DC layout to DCC not to have to re-do all the track feeders. But it can cause problems with more complex DCC layouts, so it's something to avoid if you can.
The main issue with common rail wiring to be aware of is that with multiple power supplies (boosters) you need to separate the "common" wiring for the tracks connected to supply #1 from the common wiring for the tracks connected to supply #2, and gap the common rail between rails fed from supply #1 and rails fed from supply #2. That's a big difference from how supplies shared the common line in DC environments. Trains will still momentarily bridge that gap, but that's handled by a heavy ground wire between the supplies as described earlier.
A second issue exists if you use circuit breakers. Unless both rails are gapped between a section of rail protected by a circuit breaker and other rail, a short may find a path that doesn't trip the breaker. In the diagram at the top of the page I showed the gap between track sections A and B as "optional", and that's really not true if you have a circuit breaker protecting sections B & C as shown there.
With common rail wiring, you only need to gap one rail (let's call it the "red" rail) and leave the other continuous (except where you have phase reversals, see below). Occupancy detectors will connect only to the gapped rail. But you still need periodic feeders to the ungapped rail from the black track bus wire due to power loss issues, so all this is really saving you is the effort of making insulated gaps. I just gap both rails everywhere; it's simpler.
In DC wiring, you have "polarity", one wire is "+" and one is "-", and in a model railroad you switch them to control direction, but at any given time, one rail and the wire feeding it will be "+" and one will be "-". In DCC, the polarity is changing thousands of times a second, but at any instant one will still be "+" and the other "-", it just happens too quickly to measure with a typical multimeter. Just like in DC, where rails that touch (or that can be momentarily bridged across an insulating gap by the wheel on a train) always need to be the same polarity to avoid a short-circuit, in DCC rails that touch or can be bridged need to both be "+" at the same time. This is called being "in phase".
If you look at the output of a DCC command station or booster, the two outputs will be labeled "RAIL A" and "RAIL B" or similar. Think of these as the "A" phase and the "B" phase. It's a good idea to have some conventions for these, like "the Red bus wire always connects to the 'A' phase and the Black to the 'B' phase" so you can keep other wiring consistent. Also, except where you have to deal with track that forms a loop or curves back on itself, a convention like "the rail to the front of the layout connects to the 'A' phase" can be very useful. With a loop, you can do the same thing with "the rail to the outside of the loop connects to the 'A' phase". It doesn't matter which phases you pick, just pick one and be consistent. With Kato track feeders that have a blue and white wire, I use "Front rail to the Blue feeder wire to the Black bus wire to RAIL B" as my convention (my "three B's"; I probably should have used "back rail" and had "four B's", but I didn't think of it at the time) . Sometimes this means I need to rearrange my Kato feeder track sections to keep blue to the front.
In DCC, you have what's called a "Reversing Section" when one length of rail has to meet rails at its two ends that can't be in the same phase. This means that this bit of rail in the middle needs to have its phase match one end at one time, and the other end at other times. This can happen where track loops back on itself, or where two tracks meet a third in a "wye", or with turntables, or with some more complex track arrangements. Follow your rails around your track plan, keeping track of "phase", and if one rail suddenly goes from phase "A" to phase "B" or vice versa, you need a reversing section.
A reversing section needs to be as long as the longest train that can cross it. This is because it's going to need to swap phases any time a wheel bridges a gap at either end, and if wheels at both ends are crossing the gaps at the same time, problems can result. You don't need lighted cars or wheels with resistors to cause a problem, all you need are metal wheels. And most newer model trains use metal wheels, at least the good ones.
The device that does this phase swap is called an Automatic Reverser (or Auto Reverse Circuit, or Reverser, or Reversing Circuit Breaker). What happens is that the Reverser is connected in the middle of the feeder, meaning that one side connects to the track power bus (or something connected to that, like an occupancy detector) and the other connects to the two rails of the reversing section of track. The reversing section has to have both rails gapped at both ends no matter how you do other wiring. And you can't have two reversing sections adjacent to each other (otherwise both reversers will try to reverse their section when a train crosses, which isn't going to turn out well).
Many diagrams for Reversers show them connected to rails outside the reversing section instead of to the track bus. This works, because those rails are connected to the track bus. However it can cause problems if the rails somehow get reversed or de-powered (due to a turnout switch or other causes) or if you want to use occupancy detectors (a train in the reversing section will be drawing power from the adjacent track, and appear to be in that section). It's best just to wire them to the track bus (or a device connected directly to it).
Reversers work by detecting short circuits, the same way a DCC circuit breaker does (and some perform both functions). If a Reverser is connected downstream from a circuit breaker (meaning, if there is a DCC circuit breaker between the reverser and the command station) then the reverser needs to be set to detect the short at a lower current than the circuit breaker is set to trip at, otherwise the circuit breaker will just shut off all the track power to the reversing section.
Here is a somewhat complicated reversing section. On the top right, the main track is fed from the track bus. The bus uses Red and Black wires, and at a simple feeder (A) these connect directly to the blue and gray (I'm using gray here, because white doesn't show up against a white background) feeder wires.
But if you follow the outer rail around it will eventually need to switch from gray to blue, which makes this loop a reversing section (even without the siding in the middle of it). To make this a functional reversing section, a reverser needs to connect to the rails within the loop (at either B or C). If the siding didn't exist, just one connection (at either B or C or anywhere else) would be needed. With the siding, and assuming power-routing turnouts are used (such as Kato's #6) and that you want it to work even if only one turnout is switched, both turnouts need a feeder on the point side, and since there are rail gaps at B & C, the mainline feeder isn't reaching them so this is where the reverser's output will connect.
There are usually multiple ways to achieve the same goal. In this case, you could gap the two tracks on the left (outer loop and inner loop) where they meet the frog side of the switches, feed both loop tracks from the output of the reverser, and count on the mainline feed to get power all the way to and through the two turnouts. That will work fine if your longest train will always fit in the siding of the loop, but if you want a longer train to pass one in the siding, then the diagram as shown provides a longer reversing section for longer trains. In fact, the B & C rail gaps can be located immediately to the left of the switch at A, which will provide the longest reversing section possible.
The way this works is that when a train crosses a gap between the inside of the loop and the outside (going in either direction), it briefly shorts the track inside the loop to the track outside the loop. If the two are in phase (as shown at B above) then nothing happens and the train moves on. But if the are not in phase (as shown at C), then a short circuit through the train is created. The Reverser detects this, and reacts before enough current can flow to do damage, by switching its output phase. Thus, in the example above while the blue wires at B & C started out connected to the black bus wire, just like the blue wire at A, when a train crosses C the blue wire is switched to connect to the red wire inside the reverser. With the wire switched, the rails on both side of the gap are now in phase, and the train moves on. This all happens so quickly that the train doesn't slow down.
There are many ways to hook up a reverser, and many instructions will show them connecting the track outside the loop to the track inside the loop. That's a perfectly fine design in a small layout, but if you have a power bus, they really ought to connect to it.


text:
Story Notes: "Lucky Girl"
It's a new story day! (Actually, a double-new story day, but I'm saving the other announcement for later.) This month in The Dark is "Lucky Girl," a little bit of parallel-dimension existential horror. A clip:
Mike's sister Natalie had attempted suicide on eleven separate occasions, each time using a different method. Cutting her wrists, knocking back three family-size bottles of Tylenol, hanging herself with a hospital bed sheet, jumping into the Columbia River with a bag of stones around her waist. She'd even gone into the woods smeared with bacon fat and gotten herself mauled by a cougar, which only seemed ridiculous because Natalie had survived with barely a scratch. If she hadn't, it would have been tragic.
The background: In the nineties, there was this really bad show called Sliders that I thought was very good, because I was a teenager. It was about a group of people who traveled to parallel worlds where a minor change in the past caused reality to branch out, and it blew my mind. Were parallel worlds real? What caused them to splinter off? Could my everyday actions cause a parallel world? If I were smart, I'd have gone into physics, but instead I became a science fiction writer.
A few years after I stopped paying attention to Sliders (the show having gotten too bad even for me), I discovered a band called The Eels, which happens to be fronted by the son of the man who created the many-worlds theory, Hugh Everett III. In case you don't want to click through that Wiki link, just know that the Everetts' story is interesting as fuck. The Eels' best album, 1998's Electro-Shock Blues, is about the frontman's sister Elizabeth, and this is the part where I start relating all this background information to the actual story.
Elizabeth Everett, like Natalie in "Lucky Girl," committed suicide in order to travel to a different parallel world. Hugh himself neglected his health after coming up with the many-worlds theorem, and died at the age of fifty-one from preventable causes. These things are tragedies, but it made me think about how thoroughly an idea can shatter someone's world... and this being science fiction, about what happens if that idea turns out to be true.
The thing about quantum immortality that makes it horrific is that it's deeply solipsistic. If you're the only constant in your universe, you can die over and over again without ever reaching what Natalie in the story (yes, most of these story notes are only tangentially about the story, I realize that now) calls the "zero point zero zero zero zero one universe," the one where you're least likely to be alive. After a time, it would wear on you, to have a "life track" where you're the only real inhabitant. Far from being something desirable, quantum immortality would kill your soul, and once you'd shunted yourself into more than a handful of "split-offs," it makes sense that you'd keep dying over and over again. Because what else is there to do? Might as well keep traveling now that you've gone this far. And if you die when you're old from natural causes? Then expect an infinity of parallel worlds, where your mind keeps flipping into a succession of nearly identical hospital rooms, trying to survive. Better hope you're not in any pain!
Basically, what I'm saying is that I desperately hope Hugh Everett III was full of shit.
So anyway, that's "Lucky Girl," or at least some rambling about things kinda relating to the story but not really. Physics are wacky, guys. Oh, and listen to The Eels. Here's the opener from the album, "Elizabeth on the Bathroom Floor."
Labels: write here right now
My Fantasycon 2017 Schedule!


text:
Le commissaire Permilleux, responsable du Service des affaires juives rattaché en 1943 à la Police judiciaire, est chargé à partir de novembre 1942 d'arrêter les juifs en infraction avec les ordonnances allemandes.

L'historien Jean-Marc Berlière écrit que Permilleux dirige  un service qui a vocation à gérer les perquisitions et arrestations,

La brigade du Commissaire Permilleux est formée de cinquante inspecteurs, qui enquêtent à partir de dénonciations parvenues au Service juif de la Gestapo. La brigade doit les identifier car les dénonciations sont imprécises et les juifs se cachent.

Permilleux a plus tard été jugé et blanchi par le témoignage de plusieurs juifs.

Références

Régime de Vichy
Shoah en France

redpajama_set_name: RedPajamaWikipedia


Hothouse is thrilled to announce that Debbie Chabot has joined the team as Media Director.
With over 15 years' media experience, Debbie has worked on some of British Columbia and Alberta's biggest brands, including Bell Canada, Shaw, The Dairy Farmers of Western Canada, BC Ferries and Royal Roads University to name just a few. She brings a track record of innovation, media creativity and hard negotiation to Hot House. A stellar addition to our award-winning media planning and buying team.


360 Zolutions offers a comprehensive set of maintenance programs in order to avoid downtimes and mechanical failures originated from lack of/incorrect maintenance.
Basic revision and adjustment of all the equipment of the cabin with a detailed report and status of the installation. Professional advice for Preventive Maintenance programs.
All maintenance plans can be adjusted and adapted following your 100% needs.
Please request here your Monthly, Quarterly or Yearly maintenance plan and we will sent you the best options possible with the best price on the market. ?
We can offer complete sets of all kind of filters with or without frames, bucket filters etc… All from G3 up to G9 all depending of your needs.
We highly recommend that even if you make a perfect daily maintenance, to make one yearly maintenance by an official company in order to maintain your equipment in the best conditions.


text:
ephsc.org
Home » Celebrities » British stars unite to condemn the killing of George Floyd
British stars unite to condemn the killing of George Floyd
Leigh-Anne Pinnock, Rochelle Humes and Laura Whitmore join the British stars lending their voices to the Black Lives Matter campaign as they condemn the killing of George Floyd
On Friday, ex-police officer Derek Chauvin was charged with third-degree murder and second-degree manslaughter
His arrest came after a video surfaced of him crushing George Floyd's neck with his knee in Minneapolis, Minnesota on Monday May 25th
Chants of, 'I can't breathe,' rebounded across the Thames this afternoon, the words George Floyd was heard gasping before his death
Thousands had earlier gathered at Trafalgar Square before making their way to the gates of Downing Street and then south of the river towards the US Embassy
Meanwhile outside Cardiff Castle in Wales protesters were seen holding placards saying, 'The UK isn't innocent,' and in Manchester hundreds were chanting in St. Peter's Square
They have defied the ban on mass gatherings due to coronavirus to show their solidarity with US citizens
Dozens of US cities have been set ablaze over the last week amid deadly clashes with police officers over the killing of Floyd, whose death is seen as a symbol of systemic police brutality against African-Americans
Here's how to help people impacted by Covid-19
Over the weekend, there have been worldwide protests over the killing of George Floyd on May 25th by police in Minneapolis, Minnesota.
And, Leigh-Anne Pinnock, Rochelle Humes and Laura Whitmore joined the stars lending their voices to the Black Lives Matter campaign over the weekend as they condemned the killing.
On Friday, ex-police officer Derek Chauvin was charged with third-degree murder and second-degree manslaughter after a video surfaced of him crushing George Floyd's neck with his knee.
His death has sparked demonstrations across the USA and the UK, over police brutality towards black people, with stars around the world using their platforms to call for justice and an end to racism.
Speaking out! Leigh-Anne Pinnock joined the stars lending their voices to the Black Lives Matter campaign over the weekend as they condemned the killing of George Floyd, 46
Newly-engaged Little Mix star Leigh-Anne Pinnock shared a sketch of George Floyd, quotes about ending racism and her own impassioned caption.
She wrote: 'Enough is ENOUGH… stop murdering our people. Now is the time for the whole world to wake up and take notice! Racism is RIFE not just in the US but the whole damn world.
'We all deserve to feel safe especially when it comes to being around our police force who are supposed to serve and PROTECT… they are out here hunting black people and killing unarmed harmless people. NO JUSTICE NO PEACE.'
Leigh-Anne signed off by asking her to do their part, writing: 'Please sign the petition, link in bio. #justiceforgeorgefloyd #justiceforahmaud.'
Using their platforms: Rochelle Humes (left) and Laura Whitmore (right) also used their platforms to make a stand against the injustices which are still prevalent in today's society
Furious: Newly-engaged Little Mix star Leigh-Anne Pinnock shared a sketch of George Floyd, quotes about ending racism and her own impassioned caption
Angered: Pregnant singer Rochelle Humes also used her Instagram platform to condemn the killing of George Floyd, urging her followers to be anti-racist
Pregnant singer Rochelle Humes also used her Instagram platform to condemn the killing of George Floyd, urging her followers to be anti-racist.
'The story of George Floyd angers and upsets me to my core, sadly it's not the first but we HAVE to make it the last.
'The thought of ever having to explain this world to my babies. Glossing over this or scrolling past because it 'doesn't effect you and your world' isn't enough anymore, pay attention these are innocent lives.
'If you think it doesn't effect you you are very much mistaken, this is a human race issue!! Enough is enough..I want to help, I don't know how but I want to.
'So let's all shout it for the people at the back. #justiceforgeorgefloyd (I've linked a petition in my stories).'
Heartbreaking: 'The thought of ever having to explain this world to my babies' she noted
Time to make a change: 'If you think it doesn't effect you you are very much mistaken, this is a human race issue!!' asserted Rochelle
Justice for George! Over the weekend, Laura Whitmore took to Instagram to encourage people to be actively and vocally anti-racist, sharing images and quotes with impassioned captions
Over the weekend, Laura Whitmore took to Instagram to encourage people to be actively and vocally anti-racist, sharing images and quotes with impassioned captions.
Talking on her BBC radio show on Sunday, Laura said: 'It's not just a time to be quietly non-racist. It's a time to be vocally anti-racist.
'And, we've seen the Instagram posts but it's time to be actively anti-racist. Not just because it's in fashion or because it's hashtag trending.
Using her platforms: Talking on her BBC radio show on Sunday, Laura said: 'It's not just a time to be quietly non-racist. It's a time to be vocally anti-racist'
Candid: Later on in her radio monologue about racism and inequality, Laura admitted: 'I have had privilege growing up. I acknowledge the unfair white privilege that I have
'That is not, however, condoning violence, or opportunists who use protests to wreak havoc. It's using your voice in a fair way to stop a wrong.
'George Floyd was an unarmed black man, arrested for allegedly using a fake $20 note in a shop in Minneapolis last Monday.
'He died after the arresting white police officer kneeled on his neck for more than 8 minutes, as Mr Floyd told him 'I can't breath'.
'That video went viral online, reigniting US anger over police killings and racial inequalities all over the world.'
Harrowing: Rebecca Ferguson shared an incredibly powerful video created by social activist Elizabeth Verona, depicting racial injustices suffered throughout history
Now is the time! The talented Liverpudlian star also shared impassioned quotes to her Instagram Stories
Later on in her monologue about racism and inequality, Laura admitted: 'I have had privilege growing up. I acknowledge the unfair white privilege that I have, or others around me have.
'I also acknowledge the privilege of being able to use my voice and I will continue to do that, as we all should the little things that you can do, and acknowledge to make the world a just place.'
Rebecca Ferguson shared an incredibly powerful video created by social activist Elizabeth Verona, depicting racial injustices suffered throughout history.
The talented Liverpudlian star also shared impassioned quotes to her Instagram Stories.
Singer Suzanne Shaw posted an image which read: 'I'm not black, but I see you. I'm not black, but I hear you. I'm not black, but I mourn with you. I'm. not black, but I will fight for you.'
She added alongside the hashtags: '#justiceforgeorgefloyd #blacklivesmatter.'
Doing what she can: Singer Suzanne Shaw posted an image showing her support
Liam Payne used his platform to tell his followers: 'It's not enough to just say that Black Lives Matter: all of us can and must do more in order to make that statement a reality as soon as possible.
'Let's make this "new normal" after Coronavirus one in which Black people are not persecuted for living their daily lives in the same way everyone else is privileged to do so.'
After suggesting ways for people to make a difference, he added: 'Let me be very clear, injustice comes in many forms around the world: nobody because of race, gender, sexuality, religion or belief, should suffer discrimination.
'This gives us pause for thought to be better people, and to treat everyone with the respect that they deserve.
'My condolences to George Floyd's family and to the many others who have lost loved ones in these tragic circumstance. Again Black Lives Matter. Stay safe and take care.'
Getting political: Liam Payne used his platform to speak out and condemn racism and injustice in all forms, and urge his followers to 'be better people'
Alexandra Burke posted an image displaying the quote: 'please, I can't breath' – the words uttered by George Floyd as a police officer knelt on his knee.
Alongside, in a lengthy caption, the X Factor singer wrote: 'I've struggled to put it into words with how I feel seeing so many pictures, videos and quotes on my timeline about George Floyd and what happened to him.
'I'm so angry that this has happened. When will it change? When will there be a day that this isn't just normal for people to see?
Angry: Alexandra Burke posted an image displaying the quote: 'please, I can't breath' – the words uttered by George Lloyd as a police officer knelt on his knee
'It's been going on for so long.. the difference now is.. it's being filmed! I just want to do something too make a change… this has to stop. #GeorgeFloyd #justiceforgeorgefloyd.'
Former Strictly Come Dancing winner Ore Obuda posted a photograph of George Lloyd, with his final words written beneath.
His heartbreaking caption read: 'I can't breathe. There are so many things I want to say… to the point it literally and emotionally hurts to swallow. But it's because I know I'm angry, and we know that's not the answer.
'One semblance of hope is seeing everyone's reaction to this poor man's barbaric murder: you don't have to be black to feel the way I do right now.
Please say his name! Former Strictly Come Dancing winner Ore Obuda posted a photograph of George Lloyd, with his final words written beneath
Emotional: 'You don't have to be black to feel the way I do right now' added Ore
'And we don't have to live in America to want to do something about it. I can't stand the notion of my son growing up in a world where tragedies like this are allowed to happen.
'Please say his name. George Floyd. And please stand up for his justice. #georgefloyd #ripgeorgefloyd #enoughisenough.'
TOWIE Queen Gemma Collins shared an horrific video to her Instagram page, which included multiple shocking incidents of racially-motivated police brutality.
She wrote alongside: 'STAND UP RISE UP HOW DARE THEY! Thank you @vasjmorgan.'
Saira Khan appears to reignite feud with Loose Women stars with cryptic quote on 'tolerating' people
Jerry Jeff Walker, Country Singer and Songwriter, Dead at 78
Kanye West Announces He's Running for President in 2020
Sam Smith Looks Happy on an Afternoon Walk Amid Quarantine
« '90 Day Fiancé': A New 'The Other Way' Cast Member Is Already Unhappy With TLC's Choices
10 Acne Products From Amazon That Truly Work — the Customer Reviews Prove It »
Matt Hancock infuriates SNP with press conference independence dig
These Tweets About The Reported 'Harry Potter' Series Call Out J.K. Rowling's Anti-Trans Remarks
Police launch murder probe after teenage boy is stabbed to death
'Stranger Things': David Harbour Finds It Hard Not To Fall in Love With Winona Ryder
Dale Moss Says 'No One' Is to 'Blame' in Split from Clare Crawley: 'This Didn't Come Out of Nowhere'
Dax Shepard on Why He Told His Daughters Not to Reveal Mom Kristen Bell Voiced Anna in Frozen
Dax Shepard is keeping it real! While chatting with Justin Timberlake on the latest episode of his popular podcast series, Armchair Expert with Dax Shepard, the 46-year-old actor opened up about how he and his wife Kristen Bell try to keep their children grounded, despite being a family in the public eye. Detailing that he worries about how the pair's […]
Dropping Hints! Gigi Hadid Revealed Daughter Khai's Name Months Ago
Searching for signs! After Gigi Hadid announced the name of her and Zayn Malik's first child, daughter Khai, eagle-eyed fans noticed that the moniker actually appeared on social media months prior. Gigi Hadid's Daughter Khai, More Celebrity Kids With Unique Names Hadid, 25, shared the little one's name on Thursday, January 21, by updating her Instagram bio to read "Khai's […]
The Best And Worst Super Bowl Halftime Shows Ranked
Ah, the Super Bowl. The one time each year Americans come together as a big, happy family over a greasy paper plate of chicken wings and pretend to understand the difference between a tight end and a first down. One is a… play? Or something? Let's be honest— unless you are Uncle Nicky, who is still crying over that brutal […]
What's bankruptcy, is Katie Price bankrupt and what does it mean if someone declares themselves bankrupt?
EVERYONE has heard of people being declared bankrupt, but it's not as simple as just having no money. Reality star Katie Price was declared bankrupt in November 2019 and blew her £45 million fortune and her net worth now stands at less than £1 million. What is bankruptcy? Bankruptcy is a legal status whereby debts cannot be repaid. In the […]


A leading Luxury Retailer based near London Bridge are looking to recruit for an Accounts Payable Clerk to join their team on a 6 month fixed term contract.
The role will be part of their Accounts Payable function, where you will be responsible for managing the end-to-end AP process.
High Volume invoice processing including payments.
Please note this is an immediate start.


text:
DOI: 10.1099/ijs.0.007815-0
Friedmanniella Luteola Sp. Nov., Friedmanniella Lucida Sp. Nov., Friedmanniella Okinawensis Sp. Nov. And Friedmaniella Sagamiharensis Sp. Nov., Isolated From Spiders
Kimika Iwai, Kazuo Aisaka, Makoto Suzuki
Four Gram-positive, non-motile, aerobic actinobacteria were isolated from spiders and their webs. Their genetic, phenotypic and chemical properties were studied. The 16S rRNA gene sequence data suggested that the four novel isolates belonged to the genus Friedmanniella. Two strains (FA1T and FA2T) formed a cluster together with Friedmanniella capsulata and Friedmanniella lacustris and the other two strains (FB1T and FB2T) formed a cluster together with Friedmanniella antarctica and Friedmanniella spumicola. The cell-wall peptidoglycan contained ll-A2pm and mycolic acids were absent. Isoprenoid quinones were mainly composed of MK-9(H4), MK-9(H2) and MK-9 and the predominant fatty acids were 12-methyltetradecanoic acid (ai-C15 : 0) and 13-methyltetradecanoic acid (i-C15 : 0). The major polar lipids were phosphatidylinositol and phosphatidylglycerol. In addition, strain FA1T, FB1T, and FB2T contained diphosphatidylglycerol and phosphatidylcholine. The DNA G+C contents were: 72 mol%, 73 mol%, 74 mol% and 75 mol% for strains FA1T, FA2T, FB1T, and FB2T, respectively. DNA–DNA hybridization studies demonstrated that the novel strains showed low relatedness values to F. capsulata, F. lacustris, F. antarctica and F. spumicola. These data support the proposal that strains FA1T, FA2T, FB1T and FB2T represent novel species of the genus Friedmanniella. Therefore, the names Friedmanniella luteola (type strain FA1T=DSM 21741T=NBRC 104963T), Friedmanniella lucida (type strain FA2T=DSM 21742T=NBRC 104964T), Friedmanniella okinawensis (type strain FB1T=DSM 21744T=NBRC 104966T) and Friedmanniella sagamiharensis (type strain FB2T=DSM 21743T=NBRC 104965T) are proposed for these new strains.


Pro Tools - M-Powered to the rescue...I hope!
How do you record your mix in Protools HD!
Does anyone know any thing- Is it any good??????
Does anyone know a good, reputable online dealer for B&W speakers in the US? Thanks.
help me improve my small DAW setup!
Need input, got a deal on a pair of Genelec S30's..
Andy Summers guitar tone on 'King Of Pain'.
Good, Mid-Priced Hardware Reverb for Live Use (Kurzweil Rumour)?
APOGEE AD-16X/DA-16X Confidence monitoring setup?
6 aux sends but 8 returns, why?
THANKS FOR THE FULL SEARCH FUNCTION!!!
How did you get your studios name?
WHICH IS THE BEST 2CH AD/DA CONVERTER ?
can i just monitor straight from my track 2 to my speakers instead of going into my mackie 24 x 8?
Best knob setting for recording w/ Dual Recto??
Nady RSM-4 and Cascade Fat Head - Same thing???
Anybody go from VLZ to ONYX? Worth it?
dangerous 2 bus or api 7800?
8 channel pad for preamp rack?
Mackie HR624mk2 and HR824mk2 - anyone heard or own yet?
Can't tell from the website Mackie - Studio Monitors whether there are any changes other than the new cast aluminum baffle.