Out on the road, it transpired, that weedy-sounding engine actually felt OK. Not fast, of course, but it hauled the van up the side of a mountain adeptly enough that I reached the top impressed.  That said, I was the California’s only occupant at the time – and I wondered whether, laden with a family of five and all their camping clobber, things might not have been quite so easy.  Probably a safer bet, then, if you plan ever to drive up any hills, to stick with the gutsier 148bhp version, with its 14.2-second 0-62 time and 111mph top speed.  Even this could hardly be called quick, as I found out when I drove it later in the morning, but unless you’re completely unrealistic, it’ll match up to your expectations – and it won’t set you back as much as the slightly unnecessary 201bhp version, which is only available in Ocean trim.  Whichever engine you choose, though, what will surprise is actually how enjoyable the California can be to drive.  Of course, if you’re expecting the dynamic equivalent of a Porsche Cayman, you’re going to be disappointed, but nevertheless the California is predictable, stable, surprisingly nimble, and doesn’t even lean over all that much in the corners.  What’s more, at slow speeds it feels light and forgiving – just what you need in a big vehicle often piloted by drivers more used to smaller ones – and also unexpectedly wieldy, slipping easily through tight gaps thanks to its short nose, slab sides and easily-visible rear end.
A round of updates for Volkswagen's classic camper ensure it's still the classiest way to go back to nature