Peel and finely chop two medium-sized shallots. Melt 60g of butter in a heavy-based pan over a moderate heat, then add the chopped shallots and cook for 7-10 minutes until soft and pale gold. Pour in 150g of coarse or medium oatmeal or fine porridge oats, and turn in the butter until coated and glossy. Sprinkle with a little water and continue to cook for 10 minutes, until the oats smell nutty and toasted. Break 200g of hot-smoked salmon fillet into large flakes and fold gently into the warm, soft grain. Add salt, black pepper and three tablespoons of chopped parsley. Pour 100ml of double cream into a small pan, season with more salt and pepper and add a little grated nutmeg. Serve the salmon and oatmeal warm, spooning over the cream as you go. Serves 2.  The oatmeal needs only a small amount of cooking – just until it smells warm and toasted. The coarser your oats, the longer they will need. Don't use large rolled oats for this. Stir the oatmeal and shallots regularly. Once the salmon has been added, try not to stir too much, as you will crush the fish. Hot-smoked salmon does not need cooking, just warming through.  Cook a few large handfuls of spinach or chard in a very small amount of water. Drain and press the water out of them, then chop roughly. Fold through the warm grain. Instead of butter, use bacon fat or dripping. Instead of cream, finish with a poached egg.  Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk. Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater
Hot-smoked salmon crumbles into large flakes. For a quick meal, it also works rather nicely with cooked rice, says Nigel Slater.