Audemars Piguet has a strong interest in concept pieces, replete with new materials and clever functions, the latest of which, the new ceramic-rich model shown at the Geneva SIHH last month, caused a bit of buzz. For all its startling looks, though, the concept failed to hold my attention against the new watches in the Royal Oak Offshore line. The chronographs and divers watches, resized to the 42mm diameter that was once the Offshore standard, felt like more of a story.  Since its launch in the early 1990s the Royal Oak Offshore has been putting on bulk and glitz, accruing complications and details almost without pause. Personally, I blame the Arnie connection. Back in 2000, Audemars produced its first limited edition in the erstwhile Governor’s honour. From being the first watch that really suited Schwarzenegger’s style, the Offshore seemed to be pulled ever more in his direction and of those who aped him.  Thereafter, every extra special edition bearing the racing colours of Audemars’ respectably large contingent of celebrities and sports stars made it harder for me to enjoy what is one of the seminal watch designs. So, evidence of a 90s–esque back-to-basics campaign by Audemars Piguet’s creative director – and former Chicago House DJ – Octavio Garcia is a pleasure to discover (an interesting question is how much of this is due to Audemars’ still-new CEO Francois Benhammias).  The Ref 24670 chronograph comes in six versions, all of which share a number of changes to the detail of the dials and cases as well as much-appreciated sapphire-glass casebacks.  To start with the colours echo the past and there’s a good safari dial (khaki with brown sub-dials), though I thought the grey/grey combination the most successful. The colours on the dial are applied by a galvanic treatment rather than paint, which makes everything look extra sharp and clean, while the sub-dials have a circular graining treatment giving them better definition in combination with faceted hands.  While steel is the Offshore material, Audemars has used ceramics for some of the detail, notably the crown and push pieces (which used to be rubber-coated), but not the bezel. Again the effect is a crisper, cleaner look. The last detail to note is the use of pin buckles instead of deployant clasp, the thinking here being that these are easier to adjust, given these are still quite large watches.  Within is the same modular chronograph (ie – a stopwatch module applied to a basic movement) that Audemars has used for years. There is, however, talk of an integrated chronograph movement being developed at Renaud et Papi, Audemars Piguet’s R&D outfit.  The Ref 24670 is available in steel on bracelet or alligator strap and in pink gold with either strap or bracelet.
Bold new concepts aside, there is evidence of a return to the pre-celebrity era with the Royal Oak Offshore