Bear jam. Iâd been looking forward it. Just minutes south of the sleepy railway town of Jasper, beneath the crenelated peak of Mt Kerkeslin, half a dozen cars have pulled onto the hard shoulder, with more slowing down to join them. About 40ft away, flanked by a flattering array of wildflowers and shrubbery, a very large bear raises his very big head and looks me straight in the eye.  Weighing in at around 35 stone, with a handsome tan snout and glossy supermodel fur, this brawny creature would cast a shadow over a Mini Cooper. As per my natural instinct for survival and Parks Canada advice â if hiking, carry bear spray and make noise; if in a car, remain inside â I wind down the window and reach for my camera. Low, gruffling sounds hang in the air as he nuzzles the ground for his rooty lunch. Magic.  Wildlife sightings are one of the most exciting things about this drive. Itâs with good reason that Jasper the Bear â an urbane bear-next-door with a wife and two cubs â is the official mascot of Jasper National Park. He was the creation of cartoonist James Simpkins, whose regular feature for Macleanâs magazine began in 1948 and ran for two decades, as well as being internationally syndicated.  In addition to Jasper the Bearâs towering statue by the railway station, odds are on side for spotting various types of live ones. The short list of wildlife that's potentially on display? Elk, deer, bear, moose, caribou, bighorn sheep, mountain goats, coyotes, wolves, beavers, pine martens, lynx, porcupines, cougars, snowshoe hares and wolverines. Obviously, some creatures are more elusive than others. Elk, you will soon see, are not shy. Indeed within minutes, a dozen-pointed Cervus canadensis lope into frame and Albertaâs most famous ungulates â around 1,600 elk live in the two parks â begin to populate my memory card.
You could drive the Icefields Parkway in three hours. But you wonât. Whether youâre a walker, photographer or expert picnicker, this is the longest three-hour trip in the world.