“I LIKE TO SERVE vegetarian dishes that you can really bite into,” said Pim Techamuanvivit. There’s plenty of chomp in this combination of charred eggplant, mint, toasted coconut and fried shallots. A standby at Ms. Techamuanvivit’s San Francisco restaurant, Kin Khao, and the final Slow Food Fast contribution from her and the restaurant’s chef, Mike Gaines, it makes a satisfying summertime meal.  “In Thailand this would get a bit of fish sauce and pounded dry shrimp on top for salt,” Ms. Techamuanvivit said. “But I like vegetable dishes to really be vegetarian, so we swapped out some elements.” This version relies on soy sauce for that hit of saline flavor, balanced by bright lime and a little palm sugar.  Growing up in Bangkok, Ms. Techamuanvivit learned that even the most traditional recipes leave some room for interpretation. “In Thailand there is a fall festival where some people eat just vegetarian food. My mom adapted a lot of dishes during that time,” she said.  A judicious tweak here and there, however, doesn’t let you off the hook regarding the fundamentals. Details do matter. For instance, you can’t achieve the deep, smoky flavor that is one of this dish’s principal pleasures without thoroughly charring the eggplant and cooking it through, ideally over smoldering charcoal. “When it says burn the eggplant, really do it, because that way, the inside develops a great, sweet, meaty flavor,” Ms. Techamuanvivit said. “Don’t be shy.”  Total Time: 30 minutes Serves: 4  1. Preheat grill to medium-high. Meanwhile, heat oil in a small pot over medium heat. Once oil is hot but not smoking, test temperature by adding 1 shallot slice; if it fries almost immediately, begin frying, otherwise wait and repeat test after 30 seconds. Once oil is ready, fry ⅔ of the sliced shallots until golden and crisped, 2-3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer fried shallots to a paper-towel lined plate to cool. Remove pot from heat and season fried shallots with salt.  2. Place eggplants on grill and cook, rotating, until they char all over and flesh becomes completely tender, 8-10 minutes. Remove eggplants from grill and set aside to cool.  3. Meanwhile, make dressing: Mix soy sauce, sugar and lime juice until evenly combined.  4. Peel away skin from cooled eggplants and discard. Roughly chop flesh into bite-size pieces. In a salad bowl, toss eggplant with dressing to coat. Taste and add more soy sauce, lime juice or sugar to taste. Let eggplant absorb dressing for at least 5 minutes.  5. Transfer eggplant to a platter. Top with fried and remaining raw shallots, coconut, chilies and herbs. Serve with white or sticky rice, if desired.
This recipe for charred eggplant tossed with toasted coconut and herbs, a summer standby at Kin Khao in San Francisco, makes a satisfying vegetarian meal.