Put simply: Toronto is fun. With classy restaurants and top-notch theatre, opera, museums and art galleries, there is plenty to see and do. The thrusting skyscrapers downtown reflect the city’s status as Canada’s financial hub, but after hours, business folk swap suits for shorts and head outside. That is in the summer, of course; in winter, they pull on parkas and ice skates.  Toronto is now North America’s fourth-largest city, including some 200,000 students and a multi-ethnic population representing 200 nations. Not surprisingly, the food scene ranges round the world – but the best chefs follow the mantra “fresh and local”, with a focus on Ontario produce.  At any time of year, there are festivities. The most star-studded annual event is the annual Toronto International Film Festival (September 4-14; tiff.net). Nearly 40 years old, it draws Hollywood idols and thousands of fans. But there are stars here year round, thanks to a flourishing film industry. The city has provided the backdrop to blockbusters, such as Chicago and X-Men.  With an efficient and well-priced transport system, getting around is easy. And a short drive away is Niagara Falls, south of Lake Ontario, and, north of the city, “Cottage Country”, with its lakes and log cabins.  Two decades ago, Canadians would have laughed at the idea of the provincial capital being a fun place to visit. Today, the city – one of North America’s safest – hosts visitors from around the world. Of all the souvenirs they take home, the best are probably memories of Torontonians themselves: welcoming and ready to help. With a smile.  Spring, when it comes, is warm (17C on average in May), but summers can be hot (25C in July, August). Autumn, fall in North America, is particularly attractive with warm days (September 20C, October 16C), cool evenings and brightly-coloured foliage. At the first sign of sunshine, Torontonians head for their favourite patios (outdoor terraces) where they can drink a beer, watch the world go by and store up the warmth. Winters can be extremely cold.  Niagara Falls is a short drive away.  Air Canada (0871 220 1111; aircanada.com) offers up to four direct flights daily from London Heathrow's new Terminal 2. Air Canada rouge (0871 220 1111; aircanada.com/rouge), Air Canada's new leisure airline, provides a seasonal service from Manchester and Edinburgh (year-round from Dublin). Flight time is seven to eight hours.  Canadian Affair (020 7616 9933; canadianaffair.com) has attractive week-long Toronto & Niagara Falls City Breaks from £765 per person. Includes flights from London Gatwick, Manchester or Glasgow year round (from Birmingham summer only), five nights’ accommodation in Toronto, two nights at Niagara Falls and all transfers.  Toronto is the start point for The Canadian, ViaRail’s (viarail.ca) 2,775 mile trans-continental train trip.  The Airport Express bus links the airport with seven downtown stops. Journeys take 40-60 min; free Wi-Fi (C$27.95/£15 (cheaper online); every 40 min; accessible; torontoairportexpress.com).  The TTC, Toronto Transit Commission (ttc.ca), is one of North America’s most comprehensive public transport networks, with buses, street cars and subway trains. The Day Pass is good value: C$11/£6 per person. On Saturday and Sunday, this pass is good for two adults, or one adult with 5 children.  In bad weather, locals use PATH, a 16-mile network of underground walkways linking shops, restaurants and office blocks.  Taxis can be hailed when the lighted sign is on (meter starts at C$4.25); or call companies, such as Diamond Taxi (001 416 366 6868).  Car hire is unnecessary. Even daytrips to Niagara Falls and the Niagara Vineyards are easy with bus tours, such as Gray Line (grayline.ca).  Docking points are plentiful for the city’s urban bike sharing scheme (bikesharetoronto.com) and locals cycle enthusiastically, but the traffic is busy.  Visas: If you hold a full British Passport, you do not need a visa for Canada; children need their own passport.  Toronto is now North America’s fourth-largest city.  British Consulate-General Toronto (001 416 593 1290; 777 Bay Street, Suite 2800, Toronto, Ontario M5G 2G2; gov.uk/government/world/Canada).  The Tourism Toronto Call Centre (001 416 203 2500; seetorontonow.com); open Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm.  Toronto Theatre (toronto-theatre.com) is an umbrella website for the city’s wide range of theatrical, musical and performance arts events and venues.  Canada’s leading literary giants Margaret Atwood (The Robber Bride) and Michael Ondaatje (In the Skin of a Lion) both evoke the city. World Film Locations: Toronto (£15.50; intellectbooks.com) is a new guide to “Hollywood East”, with the locations for Hairspray, My Big Fat Greek Wedding and more.  Add 15-20 per cent to restaurant and taxi bills before tax. Some restaurants add this automatically to groups of six or more; check your bill. HST (a bit like VAT) is 13 per cent. Note: cents/pennies have been abandoned. Change is rounded to the nearest 5 cents.  Note: cents/pennies have been abandoned. Change is rounded to the nearest 5 cents.  More Telegraph Travel expert guides  Follow Telegraph Travel on Twitter
An insider's guide to Toronto, featuring the city's best hotels, restaurants, bars, shops, attractions and free things to do, including how to travel there and around. By Kathy Arnold, Telegraph Travel's Toronto expert. Click on the tabs below for the best places to stay, eat, drink and shop.