But one of the best things about Cannon Beach -- besides the bird watching, starfish gazing, kite flying in the brisk ocean winds, hiking, kayaking, horseback riding, surfing and bicycling on the hard-packed sand of a wide nine-mile beach -- is that it is an appealing home base for exploring the north and central Oregon shores.  From Cannon Beach, sightseers can drive south through some of the most scenic stretches of the West Coast. For anyone who wants to flee the summer crowds (a relative term in Oregon) or Cannon Beach's kitschy gift shops and galleries filled with seaside paintings, a trip 20 miles south along Highway 101 offers many delightful adventures.  A few miles south is Hug Point State Recreation Site, a beach where craggy cliffs and coves provide shelter from the winds; on a recent Saturday, a couple from Astoria, up the coast, got married under a waterfall there and held the reception under a cliff.  At a stopping point along the highway, about 10 miles south of Cannon Beach, is one of the highest peaks on the Oregon coast, the 1,661-foot summit of Neahkahnie Mountain in Oswald West State Park, named for an early-20th-century governor who protected Oregon's coast from development.  A few miles down the highway is the trailhead to Short Sands Beach, a wide cove popular with surfers. Then comes Manzanita, a sleepy coastal town with lodging and rental cottages, less expensive than Cannon Beach and an option for those who want to stay somewhere less busy.  From Manzanita, it's about another 12 miles of curving roads, surrounded by thick forests and sweeping views of the Pacific and, farther south, of sparkling bodies of water like Nehalem Bay, to one of the highlights of this area: Jetty Fishery, a frantic shellfish dealer in Rockaway Beach. Visitors can rent dock space and go clamming or crabbing for Dungeness (peak season is December through April, but late-July crabs were succulent) or order crab, clams or oysters, yanked from the water, boiled right there in a giant cauldron.  THE wait is about 20 minutes, depending on what you order. It is tempting to go close to the workers and watch them clean crabs with their bare hands, but visitors should be prepared to be splattered with crab innards. Another option is to walk down to the bay, step onto a creaky, rocking boardwalk and watch the fishermen.  Cannon Beach was settled in the 1850's, according to Jill Grady, a cultural anthropologist from the Seattle area who bought a second home here 20 years ago and has lived in Cannon Beach full-time for the last two years. Last month she published "Cannon Beach Cottages," a book that uses the history of the 20th-century seaside homes, many of which are still standing and can be rented, to trace the town's past.  The homesteaders found the terrain, with no roads connecting with other cities, too difficult and moved on. The town, named for a cannon that washed ashore from a shipwreck in 1846, became a tourist destination in the 1890's, Ms. Grady said, after entrepreneurs from nearby Seaside cut a road connecting the town to the outside world.  Another year-round resident of Cannon Beach is Richard Gorsuch, 71, an artist, who calls it a place where "time is not your master." He moved to town six years ago after retiring from advertising. He has won local acclaim for his devotion to painting Haystack Rock, taking a page from Cézanne and other Impressionists, by painting it every day in 2002. He produced 365 paintings, through a breezy summer and battering windstorms, and getting a lot of sand in his brushes.  "Annie Dillard says, 'Write like you're dying,"' Mr. Gorsuch said. "I took that to heart and dove into it."  Cold Water and Steamed Clams  CANNON Beach is about 80 miles west of Portland. The easiest way to get there is by car, but there is daily bus service from downtown Portland. One-way fare is $16; for more information call Union Station in Portland (503-273-4865); no reservations required. A car is recommended for venturing down the coast, but Cannon Beach is easy to explore on foot. A free shuttle runs through town and to various points on the beach; buses run every 20 minutes.  There is ample lodging; staying somewhere with a view of Haystack Rock and the beach, if affordable, is key. The Ocean Lodge (2864 South Pacific Street, 888-777-4047), has 45 rooms with kitchenettes, and most have decks overlooking the ocean. Rates range from $229 to $309 a night during the summer and $169 to $279 the rest of the year. A sister property, the Inn at Cannon Beach (3215 South Hemlock Street, 503-436-9085), is less than two blocks from the beach and less expensive. Summer rates there range from $189 to $239; the rooms are $109 to $179 the rest of the year. It has 40 rooms in bungalow-style buildings. Neither hotel has a restaurant but both serve Continental breakfast.  One of the best places for crab -- to eat there or take out -- is Jetty Fishery (800-821-7697), on Highway 101 in Rockaway Beach; dock space is available there and gear may be rented for fishing and crabbing. In Cannon Beach, the Wayfarer Restaurant and Lounge (1190 Pacific Drive, 503-436-1108) has exceptional oyster shooters and steamed clams in white wine and garlic broth. Bill's Tavern and Brewhouse (188 North Hemlock Street, 503-436-2202), also in Cannon Beach, has homemade beers, seafood, hearty hamburgers and salads. In Manzanita, a great place to stop for sandwiches is the Bread and Ocean Bakery (387 Laneda Avenue, 503-368-5823).  More information on lodging, dining and activities can be found on the Web at www.cannonbeach.org.
Article on trip along Oregon's west coast to rocky and blustery beaches, including Cannon Beach; photos; map (M)