We formed an outlandish procession, mostly on foot, some astride donkeys, others trotting alongside on horseback or seated in horse-drawn carts. Under an already powerful mid-morning sun, stones clattered as we made our way steadily downhill towards a World Wonder.  Jordan: the Treasury in Petra  The sense of approach grew stronger. Conversation quietened. As the path forged deeper into the weathered sandstone valley, and the handiwork of ancient masons became apparent on path-side monoliths, we forgot the everyday world and the incongruity of our undeservedly easy journey.  Then high walls blocked out the sunshine as we moved through the cool heart of the mountain: for around half a mile, the narrow fissure of the Siq (Arabic for “gorge”) wound onwards into colourfully striated sandstone, convolutions conspiring to deny us clear views too far ahead. Everyone knew what lay in store – we’d all seen that Indiana Jones film – but a collective spirit of discovery hung over our group. Petra turned each of us into an adventurer.  Finally, sunlight pierced the dusty gloom, and we laid eyes on the Treasury, perhaps the single most awe-inspiring sight in the entire Middle East, now synonymous with Jordan’s antiquity. I had steeled myself to be underwhelmed – temple fatigue is a terrible affliction – but the sight took my breath away: I could only stand and stare.  More than 130ft high and with detailing as crisp as when it was carved 2,000 years ago by the Nabatean people, the Treasury originally served as a royal tomb and gateway to their mountain capital.  Carved in intricate detail from a rough cliff-face, blending Classical architecture with elements of the Nabateans’ own Arabian heritage, it signifies the presence in these rugged valleys of a spirit of human culture and endeavour that beggars belief.  I sank onto a bench opposite the great facade to take in the atmosphere – and the antics of two evil-looking tourist camels with their ragamuffin touts. In the shade of a rock ledge a recumbent figure attempted to charm onlookers with a penny whistle – or was he just making music for its own sake? Clacking hooves preluded the dusty appearance of a pair of riders at a gallop. “Hey mister, look you!” one called as he thundered past. Look me?  Exploring further, it proved difficult to keep a cool head – the heat didn’t help, but the dizzying scale of Petra knocked me sideways. Beyond the Treasury lay a canyon lined with rock-carved tombs. Taking care over worn steps I climbed to the Urn Tomb, once Petra’s cathedral, where twin vaulted arches supported a large forecourt bounded on two sides by immense carved columns.  A couple of postcard sellers had set up shop in the cool shade of the colonnades. One, exhausted by his endeavours, had fallen asleep. I sat with the other and admired the view, gazing out over Petra’s hidden, mountain-ringed valley.  In its heyday perhaps 30,000 people lived here, thriving on earnings from the incense trade, carving magnificent tombs and temples and maintaining peace (at a price) with those who coveted their wealth. Today, Hollywood notwithstanding, Petra retains its sense of mystery – and an unerring ability to drop jaws.
Jordan is synonymous with the image of Petra and its intricately carved tombs    and temples. Mysterious and eerie, Petra is one of the world's most    treasured sites.