With Halloween just around the corner, this week’s column was meant to be purely about pumpkins. I’d planned on pumpkin fritters and on pumpkin in a dish of roast veg, but after a couple of trips to the shops and two or three recipe tests, the pumpkins at the greengrocer had mysteriously been replaced by other types of squash.  Now, I’ve cooked a great deal with all manner of squash, and am fairly confident with object identification but even so, I was taken aback (this may have something to do with being sleep-deprived: Julia Donaldson’s A Squash And A Squeeze is currently competing in the small hours with any other squashes I might be thinking about. Ah, the joys of parenthood.)  And when I put the apparently simple question, “What’s the difference between a squash and a pumpkin?” to the test kitchen, that failed to clarify the matter, either. We’ve wrestled with far trickier issues, and know that pumpkins are simply a variety of squash, but no one could agree on a definitive answer in terms of texture and flavour, and how this might affect the way the two are cooked.  So, as with all such discussions, I went to Harold McGee for help. His encyclopedic On Food And Cooking is like the food world’s equivalent of Google, only better: unlike Google, what you read is always succinct, helpful and reliable. After taking a moment to remind us, delightfully, of the contribution the squash family has made “to human pleasure and nutrition”, McGee distinguishes between the Asian and African species – the cucumbers, melons, watermelons, gourds – and the South and North American species, which includes both the fully mature “winter squashes” (whose consistency and flavour when cooked is similar to a sweet potato), and the not-so-sweet “summer squash”, including courgette and pumpkin (whose more delicate, spongy flesh softens when cooked).  McGee also puts his finger on why I tend instinctively to reach for one type of squash rather than pumpkin: for me, the main attraction of squashes such as butternut and queen is the way they hold their shape when cooking. Whether you are chargrilling thin slices before roasting, or adding cubes to a stew or oven tray with other ingredients, the firmness of the flesh means they won’t disintegrate, unlike some of the more fibrous summer and acorn squashes, including pumpkin.  I like to use coquina squash where I can. It’s very similar to the ubiquitous, bell-shaped butternut, but has a darker skin and an almost melon-like sweetness to its flesh. That said, butternut will work just as well here. You want to slice the onion and sprouts as thinly as you can – about 1-2mm wide – so use the blade slicer attachment of your food processor, if you have one; a mandoline would also do the job, but only if you have a finger guard. Incidentally, the vibrant colour and hint of cinnamon in this makes it an excellent vegetarian choice for the Christmas meal. Serves four to six.  For the salsa1 medium red onion, peeled and very thinly sliced2 large red chillies, deseeded and thinly sliced on the diagonal 1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed2 tsp sumac1 tbsp cider vinegar1 tbsp lemon juice2 tbsp olive oil2 tsp maple syrup230g brussels sprouts, trimmed and finely shreddedSalt and black pepper  For the squash1 medium coquina squash (or butternut), peeled, trimmed, cut in half lengthways, then widthways into 1.5cm-thick slices (1.2kg net weight)2 tbsp olive oil¾ tsp ground cinnamon200g feta, broken into 1.5cm chunks  Put all the ingredients for the salsa in a bowl with a quarter-teaspoon of salt. Mix and set aside for 30 minutes to marinate.  Heat the oven to 220C/425F/gas mark 7. Put the squash in a large bowl with the oil, cinnamon, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Mix and set aside.  Put a griddle pan on a high heat and, once smoking hot, add the squash in batches. Grill for three to four minutes, turning once halfway through, so the squash slices get dark char lines on both sides. Arrange on a parchment-lined baking tray (you’ll need two large ones), and repeat with the remaining squash. Once all the squash is on the trays, roast for 10-12 minutes, until cooked through, then set aside to cool.  Arrange the squash on individual plates, or one large platter, spoon the salsa on top, scatter the feta over and serve at once.  2 tbsp sunflower oil1½ large red onions, 1 finely diced and ½ cut very thinly into 2mm slices30g piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely diced1 red chilli, finely diced 6 whole cloves1 medium swede, peeled and cut into 4cm chunks (550g net weight)650g waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 4cm chunks (500g net weight)1 small butternut squash, peeled and cut into 5cm chunks (700g net weight)1tsp muscavado sugarShaved peel of 1 lemon500ml vegetable stockSalt 300g paneer, cut into 2cm dice 1 tbsp lime juice, plus ½ tsp finely grated lime zest, to finish 15g coriander leaves, roughly chopped2 tsp coriander seeds, toastedOlive oil, to finish  Heat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Put a large sauté pan for which you have a lid on a medium heat, then add the oil, diced onion and ginger. Cook for eight minutes, stirring regularly, until the onions have softened. Add the chilli and cloves, cook for two minutes, then add the vegetables, sugar, lemon peel, stock and a teaspoon and a half of salt. Raise the heat to medium-high, cover and cook for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, then tip the vegetables and their juices into a large roasting tray; they should fit snugly without overlapping much.  Cover with a sheet of greaseproof paper and roast for 30 minutes. Remove the tray from the oven, lift off the paper and scatter the paneer on top of the vegetables. Stir in, then return, uncovered, to the oven for 30 minutes. Remove and set aside for 10 minutes, to cool slightly.  Dribble the lime juice over the vegetables and stir through the sliced onion and two-thirds of the chopped coriander. Pile the vegetables high on a platter and top with the coriander seeds and remaining chopped coriander. Finish with a dribble of oil, sprinkle over the lime zest and serve warm.  If you want to keep your cooking in line with the Halloween festivities, queen squash looks perhaps most like a pumpkin. Smaller and rounder than a butternut, it has a depth of sweetness that I love, and just the firm flesh you need for these fritters; butternut works just as well, though, if that’s easier to find. Makes 20 fritters, or enough to serve four.  ½ small queen squash (or butternut), peeled, deseeded and roughly grated (400g net weight) 1 medium onion, peeled and roughly grated90g plain flour1 tsp baking powder1 egg, lightly beaten¾ tsp ground cinnamon¼ tsp ground clove½ tsp nutmeg, finely grated20g flatleaf parsley leaves, roughly chopped10g coriander leaves, roughly chopped1 large clove garlic, peeled and crushedFinely grated zest of 1 lemon4cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely gratedSalt and black pepperAbout 700ml vegetable oil, for frying (you can reuse it)  For the sauce200g sour cream2 tsp lemon juice1 small clove garlic, peeled and crushed  Mix all the ingredients for the sauce in a small bowl with an eighth of a teaspoon of salt and some pepper. Keep in the fridge until ready to use.  Put all the fritters ingredients bar the oil in a bowl, and add three-quarters of a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Mix to combine – as ever, your hands are far and away the best tool for this. You should end up with a good, thick mixture.  Put a medium saute pan on a medium-high heat and add enough oil to come 2cm up the sides. Once hot, use two dessertspoons to shape the fritter mixture into quenelles (use the second spoon to smooth off the edges), then drop each one into the hot oil. Fry in batches of four for two to three minutes on each side, until golden-brown all over. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked fritters to a plate lined with kitchen paper, and keep somewhere warm while you cook the rest. Serve at once, with the sauce alongside.  • Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London.
Pumpkins and squash aren’t just for Halloween. Their sweet flesh and fleshy texture makes them perfect for everything from roast and warm salads to purees and fritters