It’s almost impossible to believe, looking at the thronging, restless cast of merrymakers that form such a part of today’s South Bank, that this area of London was once half-dead, all but obliterated by Second World War bombing. The first new shoots were the cheery, futuristic structures built for the 1951 Festival of Britain – only the Grade I-listed Royal Festival Hall remains – followed by the National Theatre complex downstream. Now the mile and a half of pedestrianised bank between Westminster and Blackfriars Bridges, across the river from Whitehall and Charing Cross, is a ball of energy, alive with theatres, cinemas, concert halls, show tents, street performers, bars, restaurants and cafes.  Tube or train: Waterloo Station & Underground at one end and Blackfriars Station and Underground at the other, both accessible overland or by Tube.  Bus: The RV1, a single-decker riverside bus, stops by the London Eye before zipping along to London Bridge. Waterloo is served by numerous buses, shown on the TfL website.  Boat: There’s a pier at the London Eye, served by City Cruises (citycruises.com) and Thames Clippers (thamesclippers.com).  • London's 10 best afternoon teas  The Southbank London website (southbanklondon.com/traveltradeWalks) has downloadable walks themed for families, history/architecture, cultural kicks or indulgence, but really it’s an area that’s all about the moment, just letting yourself be swirled along and joining in with whatever’s happening (there’s always something.)  • The best hotels in central London  Expect all manner of unusual performers Photo: GETTY  Pop into the National Theatre or Southbank Centre before the evening shows; there’s usually a free performance – chamber orchestra, readings, writer discussions – on offer.  Start the day with a hour-long Sunrise Yoga session by Agua Spa (020 3747 1010) in the Rumpus Room of the Mondrian Hotel, high above Blackfriars Bridge, at 7.30am. £20 per person.  The Sherling High-Level Walkway is a chance to peer into the National Theatre’s backstage area as they prepare for new productions. The gallery walk above the Dorfman Theatre has been planned by one of the production designers. Open daily, free.  • London's secret sights: 14 odd attractions you never knew were there  Skaters under the South Bank Centre Photo: GETTY  Watching the skateboarders in the undercroft of the South Bank Centre, who have managed to stay put for 35 years despite recent development threats.  Steer bored teens into the free Mediatheque at the BFI, with unlimited access to the National Film Archive, from Dirk Bogarde to punk rock and from Dracula to 1984. There’s a special archive for young film fans.  • London's secret sights: 16 more odd attractions you never knew were there  September, when the weather’s often lovely and the annual festival Totally Thames is rocking the river, but attention is slowly turning indoors for a packed autumn of events.  For great views, eat at Skylon (020 7654 7800) at the Royal Festival Hall, which serves contemporary European food using British ingredients wherever possible, set menu from £28 for two courses, £32 for three.  For buzz, try out packed café, bar and restaurant The Riverfront (020 7928 0808) at the BFI, which is run by Benugo. There’s a café bar at the front and a more sophisticated restaurant and big u-shaped bar at the back. Burgers, salads and seafood, mains from £10.50.  Best bar-with-a-view by far is the Rumpus Room on top of the Mondrian Hotel (see above), which also hosts live jazz Skyline Sessions on Wednesdays at 7pm.  Skylon at the Royal Festival Hall Photo: GETTY  From the top of the London Eye (0871 781 3000), of course, as you sail slowly up to the apex of the wheel at 440ft/135m, looking for the Wembley Arch on the horizon. Book for sunset, as the sun sinks and the city lights up.  It’s not just the river: a short walk south around The Cut, Lower Marsh and The Old Vic Theatre are some great little restaurants, local pubs and street markets.  See Southbank London (southbanklondon.com) and for the area behind the river, the Waterloo Quarter (waterlooquarter.org).
Our London expert offers a guide to visiting the South Bank, including events and things to do, advice on how to get there, and the best places to eat and drink