We are very fortunate to be situated right in the middle of one of the most prominent cider-producing areas in Somerset. We have a great number of so-called cider apples in our orchard, and have had a fair shot at making our own cider. The best results have come from using one of our favourite varieties, morgan sweet.  Despite a few good attempts, though, we can honestly say that we are yet to match the cider produced by West Croft in Brent Knoll, Somerset. It is responsible for the delectable beverage aptly named Janet's Jungle Juice or, as we lazily call it, JJJ. This cloudy cider has proved extremely popular at our annual wassail. It is made from traditional English cider apples collected from West Croft's own orchard, where many of the trees predate the first world war. They are all traditional Somerset cider apples: kingston black, morgan sweet, sheep's nose, brown snout, chisel jersey, yarlington mill, dabinett and michelin.  West Croft does not add sugar to make JJJ stronger and then water it down, as many cider makers do. Instead, it is made from 100% cider-apple juice. We rarely have any left by the end of wassail evening, which is why we always keep back a supply "for staff". It helps focus the mind when all the guests have left and we are faced with a major clear-up in the early hours of the morning.  We came up with this frozen dessert in the week following our first wassail. It seeks to encapsulate some of the main elements of wassail evening, allowing us to continue the festivities for that little bit longer, albeit in a more refined and subdued manner.  (Serves 6-8)1l Janet's Jungle Juice (or good rough, dry scrumpy cider)60g caster sugar65ml cider brandy150g Keen's cheddar, cut to rectangular "99 Flake" shapesMint leaves, preferably apple mint, to garnish  Put a shallow metal tray in the freezer to chill. Combine the cider, sugar and cider brandy in a bowl and stir until the sugar dissolves. Pour the mixture into the chilled tray and return to the freezer.  Leave until it is beginning to freeze around the edges, then stir thoroughly. Place back in the freezer and, every 30 minutes or so, stir with a fork, crushing any lumps, until the ice is firm but not frozen solid – this will take about three hours.  Transfer to a container with a lid and store in the freezer.  Serve the ice in teacups or glasses with the cheddar "Flakes", garnished with mint leaves.  • The Ethicurean Cookbook (Ebury Press) is £25. Buy a copy for £18.99 with free P&P from the Guardian Bookshop.
A rough, dry scrumpy, frozen with a splash of cider brandy and a dash of sugar, makes a delicious sorbet. Serve in teacups, garnished with a cheddar 'Flake'