With its mild climate and privileged perch above the Golfo di Napoli, Sorrento enjoys one of the Mediterranean’s longest tourist seasons. Visit in spring before the mercury rises, for a profusion of Mediterranean flora and perfumes – wisteria, mimosa, jasmine and vivid agapanthas – and for trees heavy with lemons.  Within striking distance of Naples, Pompeii and Herculanium, Sorrento is a springboard for walks and hiking trails in the rugged Lattari Mountains that hug the Sorrentine peninsula as well as trips by bus or hydrofoil to Positano, Amalfi and the island of Capri.  Naples’s Capodichino airport (about 30 miles from Sorrento), is served by British Airways (0844 4930787; ba.com) and Easyjet (0871 781 6777, easyjet.com) from Gatwick, while charter flights are run by Thomson (0871 231 4787, thomsonfly.com) from regional airports. Curreri (curreriviaggi.it) runs regular transfers between the airport and Sorrento. Larger cruise ships dock at Naples; from there you can reach Sorrento either on the Circumvesuviana railway (via Pompeii) or, in summer only, via hydrofoil, a 35-minute journey direct from Naples’ main Beverello wharf.  Special treatOffering matchless views of the Bay of Naples and a Michelin-starred chef at its Terrazza Bosquet restaurant, the Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria (1) (00 39 081 877 7871; exvitt.it) oozes pedigree from every ceiling fresco, antique and Roman column. There are two restaurants, a pool and a Cinqe Mondes spa. Three nights’ b & b costs from £732 per person including return flight from Gatwick to Naples and private transfers, with Classic Collection Holidays (0800 294 9324; classic-collection.co.uk). Mid-rangeLocated at the far end of the Marine Grande with a host of seafood tavernas on the doorstep, the Hotel Admiral (2) (00 39 081 878 1076; gigliohotels.it) is a water’s-edge three-star (terrace but no beach). Used by tour operators, so expect groups. Rooms are simply furnished but comfortable - and think of the calories you’ll work off on the short but steep walk up to the old town. Doubles from €70/ £59. BudgetA smart, no-nonsense boutique tucked on a quiet street behind Corsa Italia, Palazzo Tasso (3) (00 39 081 878 3579; palazzotasso.com) has 11 minimalist rooms perfect for purists eschewing the town’s fussier alternatives. The bright and breezy breakfast room with its tangerine chairs has views of the cathedral bell tower. All rooms have desks, wi-fi, safes and small balconies. Showers only. Doubles with breakfast from €50/ £42.  2pmStuffed with precious artefacts amassed by the counts of Terranova (brothers Alfredo Pompeo Correale) the Museo Correale di Terranova (4) (Via Correale 50, €7/ £6; closed Monday), is a must-see. Until December 2013, visitors get a rare glimpse of 400 paintings and drawings by landscape artist Teodoro Duclère, of the acclaimed Posillipo School.  Spread across four floors of the Noble family’s villa the museum showcases inlaid artefacts, paintings and furnishings but it’s worth coming just for the upper-floor views to Naples and Vesuvius across an extensive bird-filled garden.  8pmBook ahead for at table in the romantic vault at Il Buco (5) (Rampa Marina Piccola, 5; 00 39 081 878 2354). It’s not cheap when you factor in wine and cover charge, but my fried turbot in citrus and lavender flavoured breadcrumbs was worth every one of my €25/£21.  9amHead for Piazza Tasso and explore the web of streets that branch off it. Start at the 15th-century Duomo (6) (Via Pieta), topped by a triple-tiered belltower. The cathedral is a focal point during the Black Procession that takes place during Holy Week. Inside are examples of Sorrento’s famed intarsio (wood mosaic) work as well as paintings by artists from Sorrento’s Neapolitan School of the 1700s. 10.30amHead along Via San Cesareo, then right down Vicolo II Fuoro for the nicely manageable Museobottega della Tarsialignea (7). Housed in a typical provincial terracotta-hued townhouse, its collection of furniture, paintings, prints, photos, decorative arts and artefacts is curated to reconstruct a view of 19th-century Sorrento.11.30amTurn left out of the museum towards Piazza della Vittoria (8) and follow Via Marine Grande downhill beyond hotel Bellevue Syrene (Piazza della Vittoria 5) towards the fishing village known as Marine Grande. Pause at Syrene for an espresso on the delightful shaded terrace where original columns frame the view to Naples and Vesuvius.  As you meander downhill you’ll pass under one of the town’s three gates, Porta Marina Grande, the ancient gate to the sea. Marine Grande (a bit of a misnomer) opens onto a small fishing bay. The clutch of family-run seafood tavernas offer a peaceful diversion from the bustle of Piazza Tasso. Poke your nose into tiny Chiesa da Sant’Anna and head up Via del Mar for a peek through the door of Fratelli Aprea – builders and repairers of traditional wooden boats since 1670.  The fishing village of Marine Grande  12.30pmTake an outside pew at Trattoria Da Emilia (9) (via Marina Grande 62) whose decked terrace skims the water’s edge. Try the excellent antipasta della casa (€9) – grilled aubergine, squid, mozzarella, sardines, dried ham, olives followed by the mixed fried local fish - fresh off the boat - washed down with a carafe of white white (€12/ £10). 3pmWaddle back up to Piazza Vittoria, turning right onto Via Padre Giuliani. In business since 1957 with a dazzling array of flavours, Gelateria Davide (10) (Giuliani 41) offers interesting seasonal variations (wisteria) and can organise ice-cream making classes to boot. I can vouch for the coupling of walnut with the tart Vesuvius mulberry.6pmHead out for that most civilised of pastimes, the aperitivo. If staying at the art nouveau Grand Hotel Vittoria, even better. Take a pew on the hotel’s spectacular terrace (non-guests welcome) and peruse the cocktail list – the house cocktail of gin mixed with grenadine, lemon juice, tonic and the juice of oranges from the garden (€12.50/ £10.50) is a winner on sultry evenings.  The Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria  Catch an early-morning train from Sorrento station (the Circumvesuviana route connects the town with Pompeii and Herculanium) to Pompeii (one-day ticket €11/£9.30). You’ll need a minimum three hours to do it justice. Renting an audio guide, hand-held like a mobile phone, is recommended (€6.50/ £5.50 take some ID).  You can also read Mary Beard’s expert guide to visiting the site at telegraph.co.uk/marybeardpompeii.  The Sorrento Festival, featuring jazz and classical concerts, is held at historic venues in and around the city from July to September.Over 60s get free entry to the archaeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum – take some ID.If exploring beyond Sorrento by bus, buy an unlimited-use daily ticket (€7.60/ £6.50) which can be used right along the Amalfi coast. For our comprehensive guides to more than 100 destinations, visit telegraph.co.uk/destinations
Whether you want dramatic hikes and historic sites or merely stunning views and a cool aperitivo, this Italian town is the ideal destination, says Teresa Machan.