I waited, with bated breath. Do we know how to cook, how to fight, how to make love, how to brew a nice cup of tea? Of course we do – but do we have such knowledge more abundantly than any other 21st-century country? “The English,” he repeated, putting me out of my misery, “know how to vote.” And – ah! I saw what he meant. I have been in Greece for about 48 hours, in order to conduct some first-hand research into the euro crisis. I have been amazed by the general level of pessimism among intelligent, professional Greeks.  • Greek economy is bleeding 600 jobs a day • ECB hands Athens reprieve as banks teeter on the brink  It seems bizarre that the world is risking this geo-political convulsion, when the sums at stake are so relatively small. Next month the Greeks must pay back about £1.5 billion that they owe to the IMF, and, as of Sunday, they were being mulish about it. At least one Greek minister was quoted as saying that they couldn’t pay, wouldn’t pay. Go whistle, he said.  If he is serious, he means that the Greeks are finally going to default; and what happens then will all depend on mass psychology – on what that default will mean not just to their creditors but to the Greeks themselves. According to the gloomsters, the Greeks will take it badly. They will decide that it is conclusive proof that they can no longer manage their own affairs, and that their government cannot be trusted with anybody’s money; and having briefly uttered a Sophoclean wail they will go to the banks to withdraw their cash.  The current bank “jog” will become a run, and then a stampede. The Greek banks will be neither solvent nor liquid, and the only hope would be some further bail-out from the European Central Bank – and the thinking now is that Mario Draghi, the governor, has exhausted his options. To pour more money into Greece would be neither legal nor prudent – and a bit of an insult to all those European countries that have done the right thing and paid their debts. The Greeks are already desperate for cash, to pay their pensioners, to pay public servants – even to pay for medicines.  Greeks are suffering hardships now that we can barely imagine. Faced with a banking meltdown, and no more cash from Europe, they would have no choice but to reinvent the drachma, print money, and take back control of their own affairs.  It would be horrendously difficult, and painful, and it would probably involve hyperinflation and a long period in which no international lenders would go near the place. The Greeks would almost certainly find themselves drawn closer to Putin and Moscow – with all sorts of baleful implications. The contagion might indeed spread to other eurozone countries. We surely can’t let it happen. But what is the alternative?  The only other way forward is for the Greeks to swallow the German medicine, no matter how nasty it tastes. They will have to make the reforms they have dodged for so long; they will have to purge their bureaucracy of the Byzantine non-jobs; they will have to get people to pay their taxes and to obey the law. In a word, they will have to become a little less Greek and a little more German – and it will hurt. On Sunday morning I tramped with the sunburnt hordes through the holy precincts of Delos, and I remembered how the Delian league had evolved from a brotherhood of sovereign states into an Athenian empire.  • How the ECB became the real villain in Greece • AEP: defiant Greeks force Europe to the negotiating table  Today it is the eurozone that is becoming an empire, and Germany the semi-reluctant hegemon. That is the choice the Greeks must make: between a painful and perhaps chaotic independence; or a grinding economic subjection, endured in the hope of long-term behavioural change. Either course will require leadership of a high order. They will have to know how to vote.
A choice will have to be made: will they swallow the German medicine or decide   to go it alone?