The word “Kasuti” is a variation of Kasheeda, which was used for embroidery in the districts of Karnataka, Bijapur and Dhariwal. Articles like Kunchi, Cape Kulai and Kubsa are frequently made by the Karnataka women to be given as gifts at functions, festivals and other happy occasions.
HISTORY OF KASUTI SAREE
The history of Kasuti dates back to the Chalukya period.Kasuti embroidery is believed to have originated from north Karnataka which spread all over the region. THere are literary references which date back to 15th century. Kasuti developed mostly in Lingayat communityThe name Kasuti is derived from the words Kai (meaning hand) and Suti (meaning cotton), indicating an activity that is done using cotton and hands. The women courtiers in the Mysore Kingdom in the 17th century were expected to be adept in 64 arts, with Kasuti being one of them. It is also said that the Lambani clan left their traditional home of Rajasthan and settled down in Karnataka and brought the Kasuti craft along with them. Sareesembroidered with Kasuti were expected to be a part of the bridal trousseau of which one saree made of black silk with Kasuti embroidery called Chandrakali saree was of premier importance.
This embroidery is done mainly on handloom irkal saris.The motifs here range from architectural designs to a cradle and from an elephant to a squirrel. The main motifs are religious and are found to be larger near the pall”;” as they move downwards in a sari the motifs get smaller and smaller. Vertical, horizontal, and diagonal stitches are used. The motifs have to be completed as the stitching line comes back to fill in the blank spaces.
DIFFERENT STITCHES OF KASUTI EMBROIDERY
Kasuti employs the counted thread method and has 4 types of stitches
- Gavanti / Ganti, (meaning knot), a double running stitch worked in a straight line, i.e. vertically, horizontally or diagonally.
- Muragi, a zigzag, running stitch ladder-likein appearance. It is used to create small geometrical motifs and for floral or architectural designs.
- Neygi, (derived form the Kannada word for weave), darning stitch. Long and short straight lines are used for a woven effect.
- Menthi, (meaning both fenugreek seed and forked stitch), used mainly to fill in the motifs. This is the cross-stitch.
PROCESSOF IMPLEMENTING KASUTI EMBRODERY ON FABRIC
- Graph to yarn-countable cloth
- Graph to fabric following the traditional voile net process
- Graph to butter paper and then to fabric
Design placement is very important process to learn for quality product because through this process one can develop one’s visualization power. Design placement is done before starting Kasuti work on any product. This is because one has to be clear about the placement of design on the product and work accordingly, which makes the process easy and smooth and the final quality also best.
- In this one has to first decide the product, then select the motifs and borders, number them and also make their graphs.
- Then make a flat drawing on the paper of that particular product.
- Now where one want to put the numbered designs they have to decide and put the number instead of drawing the whole motif or border.
- Decide the colour for the designs according to the product.
- After that decide the process which one wants to follow for implementing Kasuti on product.
- Now start Kasuti following the chosen process.
FINAL SAMPLE MAKING PROCESS
- Decide the product.
- Design placement variations and selection.
- Selecting the motif according to the design placement.
- Making graph.
- Making butter paper / printing.
- If voile net technique, then process of marking the fabric with tailors’ chalk, place the voile net fabric accordingly and start the embroidery.
- Staring Kasuti on fabric.