Understanding The Great Divide
By Tom Crisp
“Before moving to Canada from New Zealand over four years ago, I researched the area looking for possible cave diving sites to explore. Tales of expeditions of epic proportions by Martin Groves and the Alberta Speleological Society began to emerge”
The Pacific and Atlantic oceans are hundreds of miles apart, their origins on the other hand can be separated by a mere knife edge comparatively. Precipitation that falls in the mountains on the Eastern side of the great divide begins its journey to the Atlantic and in few places, the Arctic oceans, while the Western replenishes the Pacific. The great divide begins in Northern Alaska and meanders its way South through the mountains of Canada before continuing through the two American continents. Nestled on the divide the provincial park of Kananaskis resides, a mountainous area containing many peaks, fault lines and drainages. Parts of Kananaskis were once seabed, lifted and pushed by convection currents below forming the summits we see today. Large bands of limestone can be traced through the range that are relatively unexplored creating a subterranean dreamland for cavers and the occasional cave diver.
In Canada, precipitation predominantly falls as snow blanketing the landscape for months of the year. While the snowpack is present and ever growing throughout winter, rivers and underground drainage remains relatively dry as the water is held in stasis. Spring turns to summer melting the icy reserves of water forming streams that rise into rivers. The mountains become saturated before winter returns and the cycle begins once more. Some of the water that melts throughout summer descends below the surface through cracks usually along fault lines eroding them over thousands of years creating caves. Once the water has descended far enough it eventually contacts the water table and redirects to a more horizontal trajectory following the path of least resistance. Occasionally a Fault line in limestone fed this way remains both above and below the water table and a fresh water spring emerges.
One such place is Karst Spring in Kananaskis. The source of the water in Karst spring is a mystery. Many have theorised as to its origin but no concrete conclusions have ever been made.
Before moving to Canada from New Zealand over four years ago, I researched the area looking for possible cave diving sites to explore. Tales of expeditions of epic proportions by Martin Groves and the Alberta Speleological Society began to emerge. One site briefly visited caught my eye, Karst Spring. Martin had planned a trip to Castleguard, the longest cave in the country (more on this in another wetnotes article). Thwarted by the elements, Castleguard was inaccessible that year so he shifted focus to Karst spring. An exploration dive was made reaching a depth of around forty meters before the dive was turned due to gas limitations. The cave then sat dormant for years.
I was lucky enough to dive Karst spring following in Martins footsteps once again and extended his exploration a short distance further, this time with the university of Calgary in tow. During the dive a full survey of the current exploration was made along with sensors being placed to measure water pressure and flow in an effort to better understand the hydrogeology of the surrounding wilderness. Winter water levels allow for diving to occur but presents its own unique challenges. Avalanches, snow travel and air temperatures as low as minus thirty degrees Celsius cause major concern. Along with all the usual dive gear, backcountry ski equipment and knowledge is needed. Finding a support team capable and willing to stand around in such conditions is a challenge. Fortunately I have friends that fit the bill and the project is still running strong with no shortage of volunteers.
We hope to continue research and exploration in the years to follow with the idea of preserving natural wonders like this for future generations. Understanding the source of the water may help us see the effects of climate change in the area as the spring is likely fed by both snow and glaciers. While there are still questions to be asked, we will keep asking them.
Fourth Element Ambassador
Tom has been cave diving since 2010 and has been hooked ever since.
Working closely with the New Zealand caving community Tom worked with several existing projects before establishing a small team and launching expeditions to caves across New Zealand’s south island. Tom has been involved with several other notable projects including Project Middle Earth to Blue Creek Resurgence with the GUE NZ team, and in Canada working with the Alberta Speleological Society.