Putting, plastering or using drywall? We analyze three wall leveling options and give clear instructions on how to work with them.
During the renovation process, you need to clean the wall of all the finishing materials that were applied to it. After that, using a rule, level or laser level, you need to determine how uneven the wall is. If the error is very small (up to 10 mm), it is enough to level the wall with a putty for leveling before painting or wallpapering .
It is important not to neglect this step, even if the error seems insignificant to you. It will make itself felt if you choose a smooth wall covering. Embossed finishes such as wood panels or paint with a pronounced texture effect are a little easier.
Types of putty
- Plaster. Dries quickly, applied in a layer up to 5-7 mm.
- Cement. It hardens for several days, but can be applied in a layer up to 10 mm. Suitable for rooms with high humidity.
- Polymer: acrylic and latex. They are used for outdoor work due to their low air permeability.
To work, you need two spatulas: a wide one and a small one. A small one is needed in order to scoop up the material and distribute it over a large spatula.
If the curvature is 5-10 mm, first knead the starting putty – it contains larger particles of gypsum or cement, and then the finishing one – it makes the surface less rough, since it consists of small particles. If the curvature of the wall is less than 3 mm, you can immediately apply a layer of finishing putty .
To obtain a thin layer, hold the trowel at an almost 90 ° angle. To make the layer thicker, decrease the angle.
Plaster can be used to level out more serious wall defects – debris and bulges with a depth of more than 10 mm. The maximum plaster layer is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. The material can be of three types and is applied in different ways.
Types of plaster
Use of beacons
If the curvature is palpable or if you have no experience in applying plaster, it is better to use beacons and rules. Lighthouses are two V-shaped metal rails that are attached to the wall. You will follow them as a rule – a long bar that cuts off excess plaster.
You can make a lighthouse yourself. For this, wooden beams are often used, especially on a wooden or foam concrete wall, since in this case self-tapping screws can be screwed in. You can also screw the screws into the wall so that their caps are at the height at which the plaster layer should end. A metal bar is pressed to the screws and the empty space between it and the wall is filled with plaster, as in the photo. Then the plank is removed and the remaining dried protrusion from the plaster is used as a regular beacon.
Application without beacons
If the wall is curved by about 1-2 cm, you can check how evenly you apply the composition using a level and a rule. Apply the first layer of plaster thickly and casually enough, and make the final one more liquid, it requires more attention. The corners of the walls can be leveled during work with an angled trowel.
3. Installation of plasterboard sheets
This process is also called dry plastering. It is used for the most difficult cases and helps to quickly achieve a perfectly flat wall, however, donates a little room area.
This is a method in which drywall is glued directly to the wall. It helps save space, but the lack of a frame makes installing the sheets a little more difficult. Beacons from pieces of drywall are attached to the wall – it is on them that the sheet will rest. Then an adhesive is applied to them and the sheet is pressed.
It eats up about 5 cm of space, so it is rarely used in small rooms. But at the same time, the space between the wall and drywall can be used with benefit – to place sheets of sound or heat insulation inside.
Metal profiles are attached to the wall, then a plasterboard sheet, and before painting, 1-2 layers of putty are applied to it.