Honduras is the second largest country in Latin America. Bordered by Nicaragua, Guatemala and El Salvador, the country has a vast expanse of Caribbean shore to the north, plus one of the last great tracts of intact primary forest in Central America, on the Mosquito Coast. A cooler, mountainous interior runs east-west and peaks at 2,870 metres at the volcano Cerro Las Minas, while to the south lies the sun-baked pacific coastline of the Gulf of Fonseca.
Honduras has 470 miles of white-sand beaches, an extensive network of national parks and reserves and more than 700 species of birds, including the Harpy eagle, one of the largest of its kind. Jaguars, pumas, ocelots, giant anteaters, tapir and mantled howler add to the appeal for wildlife lovers. If you need more of a reason to visit, the Bay Islands hold the second largest coral reef in the world.
But, of course, not all is perfect in this tropical land. Honduras is still repairing the damage from Hurricane Mitch in 1998, which killed 5,600 people and caused more than $2bn (£1bn) in damage. The country's unique position in Central America means it is partially sheltered from the earthquakes that terrorise its neighbours, but the threat of further damage from hurricanes and flooding caused by heavy rains remains.
Then there is the poverty. Known as the original Banana Republic because of its reputation for corruption, Honduras still suffers from acute socio-economic problems, despite its alliance with the US, and remains the second poorest country in Central America (only Nicaragua is worse). Around 80% of Hondurans live in poverty and half that number are illiterate, and the population is expanding rapidly (now approaching 7 million). Visitors are at risk from crime, especially in the cities, though on the whole Hondurans are warmly welcoming to tourists, enjoy their enthusiasm for their country, and are well aware of the financial benefits tourists bring.
Columbus first arrived in Central America at Trujillo (northern Honduras) in 1502 and named the country after the deep waters of the Caribbean (honduras meaning "depths"). Spanish settlers arrived in 1525, declaring Comayagua in the cooler central highlands as the capital in 1537. This remained as the political and religious centre until Tegucigalpa took over the role in 1880.
Although independence from Spain was granted in 1821, Honduras became part of Mexico, before joining the Central American Federation and finally declaring independence in 1838. Since then, the country has suffered countless coups, rebellions, military regimes and changes of authority. A freely elected government came to power in 1982 and is re-elected by popular vote every four years, though controversies rage about the transparency of the country's voting system and the legitimacy of its results.
· Honduras.com: Official information on the country, travel services, hotels restaurants and culture.
· Honduras Tips: Town by town travel advice.
· Hondirectio: Email addresses of hotels, dive operators and travel agents.
· Roatan Island: Great for diving and activities in the Roatan Island area. Lots of country info for tourists.
· CIA World Factbook - Honduras
· The Foreign Office travel advice
If you only do three things
Visit Copán, a World Heritage Site known as the "Athens of the new world", where you can see the hieroglyphics and temples of one of the most documented of Mayan sites. Escape to the Barbareta Marine National Park (Bay Islands): eight miles of jungle trails and a 1,250 acre private Parrot Preserve are spread across this 5km private island, which teems with wildlife and exotic plants. It is an eco-tourists' paradise. If you prefer to avoid the heat, then test your nerve by rafting and canopy trekking on the Cangrejal river, in the cool interior mountains surrounding La Ceiba. Some time around 2000 BC, the Maya civilization appeared in the small villages of northern Central America.
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The official language is Spanish, although English is widely spoken by West Indian settlers in the north and on the Caribbean Bay Islands.
A yellow fever vaccination certificate is required from all travellers arriving within six days from infected areas. A cholera vaccination certificate is no longer a condition of entry into Honduras, but precautions are essential. Typhoid may be a risk in rural areas. Malaria risk, in the benign vivax form, exists throughout the year in 80% of areas, especially rural ones. Transmission risk is low in the remainder, which includes the cities of Tegucigalpa and San Pedro Sula. Hepatitis A vaccination is recommended. Tap water is generally unsafe to drink in all of Honduras and milk is often unboiled and it is best to buy canned. Take local advice.
The north coast is very hot with rain throughout the year. Although offshore breezes keep the air temperature cool, the sun is still strong. The Caribbean lowlands have a tropical wet climate consistently hot and humid, with rainfall throughout the year. The Pacific lowlands are tropical, hot and with a distinct dry season from November through April. The interior highlands also have a dry season, with cooler, more temperate weather in higher grounds. The wet season runs May to October and visitors will need waterproofs - especially in the highlands.
Geographically there is quite a change in cuisine from the west to the east. In the highlands of the central and western provinces, corn is the base for tortillas and most other dishes. The beans favoured by pre-Colombian Mexico meet the root crops of South America and, as a result, Honduras boasts more than 20 kinds of tamales, made from steamed cornmeal and filled with meats, beans, vegetables, and chillies. In the eastern lowlands, the staple is rice and cassava root, flavoured using pumpkin, plantain, coconut and seafood.
Tapado "olanchano" and tapado "costeno" are beef- and plantain-based soups. Costeno (from the coast) includes cassava, guineo bananas, and coconut, and the more western olanchano is packed with pork ribs and corn. The country being predominantly Catholic, there are days when red meat is off the menu, in which case Hondurans will eat dry fish cakes in soup. A Copán-style pork roast is a must-try - succulent whole pig stuffed with spiced corn dough and roasted in special ovens.
Hondurans love to party, and do so with gusto until the small hours, setting off firecrackers and dancing in the streets.
The week-long carnival in La Ceiba during the third week of May is a colourful, vibrant time to visit with parades, costumes and street music. There are festivities in just about every town to celebrate saints' days.
The first two weeks of February celebrate the fair of the Virgen de Suyapa, patron saint of Honduras in the town of Suyapa, 4 miles southeast of Tegucigalpa.
Other popular fairs in Copán include Ruinas (March 15-20), Tela (June 13), Trujillo (June 24), San Pedro Sula (last week in June) and Danlí (last weekend in August).
The Feria Centroamericana de Turismo y Artesanía, the fair of Central American international artisans' and tourism, runs December 6-16 in Tegucigalpa. Copán cultural fair runs Dec 15 to 21.
What to buy
Beautifully crafted (and cheap) leather bags, belts, and wallets. Hand crafted silver jewellery and wooden artefacts, (the best of which can be found in Valle de Angeles, a colonial town near the capital city, Tegucigalpa).
Cigars from Copán and Danlíl are very popular and Panama hats and woven baskets can be picked up for next to nothing in Santa Barbara. There is also a big jade market in Honduras inspired by the jewellery of the Mayan nobles.
Embassies and visas
UK The Embassy of Honduras in London 115 Gloucester Place, London W1U 6JT (020 7486 4880).
Honduras British Honorary Consul, Tegucigalpa, Honduras (+504 237 6577/0645/0324).
Visa requirements: Tourists will need a visa if visiting for over 90 days (£10) or for multiple entry (£50). A visa extension may be obtained in Honduras at the Immigration Authorities. UK tourists need a passport valid for six months; although proof of onward passage is not required, it is advisable to have a return ticket. Visitors may be asked to prove how they plan to leave the country. Extensions are granted in 30-day increments to a maximum of six months.
£1 buys approx 37 Honduran lempira (HNL). It's best to take currency and travellers' cheques in US dollars as Sterling cannot normally be exchanged, except at branches of Lloyds Bank.
There are three main carriers to Honduras; each fly via Europe or the US:
· American Airlines (0845 7789 789) fly daily via New York and Miami to Tegucigalpa.
· Continental Airlines (0845 607 6760) operate daily flights from all UK airports through either Houston and Cleveland and on to Honduras.
· Iberia (0845 6012854) currently operate flights on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays via Madrid and Costa Rica. Taca operate flights onward to Honduras.
Seven Names for the Bellbird: Conservation Geography in Honduras, Mark Bonta Documents the challenges and merits of including locals in conservation. A university professor, Bonta studies biodiversity conservation and birding in the most mountainous regions of the Americas.
Lito the Shoeshine boy, Lito Chirinos, with photographs by David Mangurian A first-person account of the life of a poor, young boy in Tegucigalpa.
Don't Be Afraid, Gringo: The Story of Elvia Alvarado, Medea Benjamin Offers an insight into the life of the people of Honduras.