The existence of the United States was framed by the blood of the American Revolutionary War. But it took the Civil War 80 years later to define the country.
Until then the “United States” referred to the joining of independent states, almost like individual countries.
Later “these United States” became the keystone for a more cohesive and powerful federalized central government.
Mobile, Ala., played an important role in the outcome of that war. That’s where the Union’s first-ever rear admiral, David Farragut, bolstered his already impressive military résumé.
In August 1864, Farragut forced the defeat of the Confederacy’s small but well-disciplined naval forces and defeated two forts on opposing points around Mobile Bay.
Many high school students have memorized Farragut’s: “Damn the torpedoes (marine mines); full speed ahead,” a short-hand corruption of what was actually spoken on Aug. 5, 1864.
What Farragut actually said while roped to a mast so he could see above the cannon smoke was: “Damn the torpedoes! Four bells. Captain Drayton, go ahead. Jouett, full speed!”
Percival Drayton was the commander of the Union vessel Hartford, Farragut’s flagship. And James Edward Jouett was the commander of the Union vessel Metacomet, which was lashed to the Hartford during a portion of the battle.
Later that year a grateful Congress appointed Farragut as the first American Naval officer to attain full admiral. And the following April Farragut would become one of the pallbearers for President Abraham Lincoln, assassinated days earlier.
When I arrived last August, the glistening white sand of Alabama’s Gulf Coast shoreline was temporarily blinding, stretched taut and widely generous with reflected, almost overwhelming, sunlight.
With heat indexes reaching 105 to 115 degrees, visiting throngs had pitched sun shelters and cabanas and those sun worshippers likely gave little thought to how nearly 150 years ago an epic struggle took place here.
It was a military conflagration that would help determine the size, shape and texture of the nation.
Alabama now is pulling out the stops to draw visitors from the beaches to a string of historically relevant Civil War sites.
“The beaches have always been the No. 1 draw, but once visitors soon begin to ask what else is available, and if there is something they can learn about our coast,” said Kim Chapman, spokeswoman for Alabama’s Gulf Shores and Orange Beach Tourism. “We are fortunate to have a large number of Civil War-era assets.”
With the 2014 sesquicentennial celebration of the Civil War’s important Battle of Mobile Bay less than a year away, the goal is to draw many of the region’s 5.2 million annual visitors to historic locations.
“We’ve always had Civil War buffs come to our Civil War Trail,” Chapman said. “But many other places have already had their sesquicentennial blow-outs. We’re preparing ours for next year.”
That preparation will include activities at several of the 17 designated Civil War Trail locations along Alabama’s Gulf Coast shore. Many are little more than a tucked-away information kiosk, while others are more expansive and likely to draw visitor attention.
Southerners desiring to showcase their Civil War reenactment hobby will have many reenactments to attend.
“I’ve probably worn my blue (Union) uniform at reenactments more than I have my gray (Confederate) one,” said Bob Bell of Pensacola, Fla. For Bell, dressing as a Confederate private means more than just entertaining visitors to Fort Morgan and other stops along Alabama’s Civil War Trail. It’s a way to honor both the region’s history and his own family tree.
“I had nine relatives who fought in the Civil War, including my great-great grandfather, Joe Pack Murphy,” the soft-spoken Bell said. “They were all in the Confederacy, and each was a private.”
Such personal links help explain why re-enactors are so willing to engage visitors about Alabama’s Gulf Coast’s Civil War sites.
“I really do believe that many people miss the importance of the Civil War and what it meant to the country; what it still means to the course of America,” said Marlene Gannon of Navarre, Fla.
Gannon, often garbed as a Civil War-era society matron, is eager to expose visitors — especially youngsters — to Fort Morgan and an average person’s day during the tumultuous Civil War.
Further inland, representing the Union’s final push to wrest control of Mobile from the Confederacy, is Blakeley State Park. Today the park is a living reminder of the campaign for Fort Blakeley, April 2 to 9, 1865.
Often described as the last large engagement between the two opposing sides, this battle had it all: trench warfare, “modern arms,” barbed wire and pre-directed cannon fire that raked the enemy’s troops.
On the Union’s side were 45,000 troops, more than 10 times the forces mustered by the Confederacy which held the Fort’s high ground, said state park historian/ranger Stacy Gardner.
“Each side knew the war was going to end but they stuck it out anyway,” Gardner said.
Visitors to the 2,000-acre Blakeley State Park will see more than four miles of still-existing trenchworks, all built by hand with redoubts, earthenworks and other constructs intended to keep the Union troops from overwhelming the Confederacy’s much smaller and weakened forces.
It didn’t work, says Gardner, with elements of Ohio Union forces contributing to the routing of the defending Confederates on the same day that Lee surrendered to Grant.
Only then did Mobile finally capitulate, quickly followed a few weeks later by a cease-fire at the still-standing Magee Farmhouse in Kushla, Ala.
Often called “the Last Appomattox,” the actions at the farmhouse between Union general E.R.S. Canby and Confederate General Richard Taylor set the wheels in motion for the third largest surrender of Confederate soldiers of the Civil War.
But by then Lincoln had been assassinated and the North was having nothing to do with being magnanimous toward the South.
As a result, even in the 21st century some of the nation’s most important Civil War physical keepsakes have gone wanting for support.
That lack of concern includes the Magee Farmhouse and property, now for sale for less than $200,000 with little interest in preservation either from Alabama or Washington.
Perhaps next year a renewed interest in the importance of the Battle for Mobile Bay may awaken some to help restore places such the Magee Farmhouse, Blakeley State Park, Fort Morgan and Fort Gaines.
Mobile, along Alabama’s short Gulf of Mexico coast, is wedged between New Orleans to the west and Pensacola, Fla., to the east. It’s a 968-mile drive from Cleveland.
Although Mobile has its own international airport, many air travelers use Pensacola’s international airport to access Alabama’s Gulf Coast more easily and quickly. It’s served by Delta and other airlines. Abundant accommodations include both public and private campgrounds, motels and hotels for any budget. Condominiums command gorgeous sunrise and sunset views of the Gulf of Mexico.
Expect a rich tapestry of local seafood with a casual dining experience. Among the local favorites: Fried dill pickles, grits with shrimp, spicy crabcakes, fried alligator, and fresh seafood and fish.
A wealth of outdoors-related activities include chilling along miles of marble-white sand beaches to shopping at unique and upscale venues, dolphin-watching via tour boat, venturing on one of Alabama’s coastal Birding Trails as well as some of the nation’s most historically vital Civil War engagement sites.
For the 2014 sesquicentennial the region will host a slew of special features.
On Jan. 25, Fort Gaines will host A Day in the Life of a Civil War Soldier.
For the 150th anniversary of the Aug. 2 Battle of Mobile Bay, major activities will include reenactors with drills and training exercises. At Fort Gaines a cannon will be fired every 45 minutes to honor of the soldiers and sailors who fought that battle.
March 1 will see the 24th Annual “Colonies of the Gulf Coast, where 18th and 19th Century Spanish, French and British military reenanctors a Fort Gaines will go through drills and fire cannons.
Winter offers the coolest, weather. While the daily average high temperature for June through August soars to around 90 degrees, the average high in January and February is in the low 60s, and around 70 degrees for March and April.
Details: Gulf Shores and Orange Beach Tourism: 800-745-SAND, www.gulfshores.com and www.orangebeach.com; http://alabama.travel/upcoming-events/fort-morgan-state-historic-park-2.