“What did women wear in the 1930s?” The fashion of the thirties is usually over shadowed by the great depression, but the 1930s were full of glamour and style. Here you will learn about all the clothing and accessories women wore for day and evening, specific occasions, and activities. Welcome to the glamorous, elegant, well-tailored, world of women’s 1930s fashion !
1930s Fashion History
What did the thirties woman look like? The very loose, square, drop-waist, high knee-length hem, and slightly “boyish” look of 1920s fashion for women was completely gone by 1933, and was replaced with a much more modest and form fitted style with an accentuated natural “high waist”, fitted hips, longer mid-calf or floor length hemline, high neckline, and wide shoulders. The ideal thirties woman was tall and slender with a very small waist and narrow hips, but since most women were not blessed with slim hips and narrow waists, shoulders were exaggerated with puff sleeves, shoulder pads, full collars, and “caplet,” “butterfly’ or ruffled cap sleeves, to make waists and hips appear smaller in comparison. Most sale ads and catalogs featured artistically drawn women who were three times as tall and thin as any real woman could be. The ideal silhouette was anything but realistic.
The fashion industry underwent many changes during this decade in response to the severe economic hardships of the time. Factory made garments (what we now refer to as “ready to wear”) became popular, because clothing could be mass produced for far less than made-to-order custom garments. The insurgence of ready-to-wear fueled the buy at home catalogue market.
During this era, zippers became a staple in finishing a garment – they cost less than buttons! Less expensive fabrics, “rough” or “peasant” fabrics and cotton became more widely used. In fact nubby, textured, crepe, or crinkled “rough” fabrics became a trend, “the rougher the smarter!” declared one catalogue, particularly for day dresses, skirts, and coats.
Being on a tight budget was no excuse for sloppy fashion. It was considered a woman’s duty to shop “smart” and look “smart” by wearing the latest 1930s fashions, materials and designs she could afford. Frugal woman were praised who could feed and dress her family on a dime. She was considered a good steward of her husband’s money! Such was the life of a 1930s wife.
Single and working women, too, were expected to look their best- to be appealing to their male employers. Despite the depression cosmetic sales doubled in the thirties!
1930s House Dresses
The most casual a woman dressed was at home, with just her family and visiting lady neighbors. House dresses, while basic and usually made of practical durable cotton, followed the trends in cut and silhouette, and often displayed a variety of bright bold prints. Most women still preferred to sew their own clothing or upcycle existing dresses into newer frocks. The house dress was the ideal dress to experiment with since no one but family saw her in it.
One unique house dress variation was the reversible house wrap dress, called a “hooverette.” Practical, affordable, washable, cotton percale and true to thirties style they sported ruffle sleeves, accentuated tied waste, and a slim cut through the hips, the “hooverette” was the perfect daily dress. With two sides, it was two dresses in one! Now that is a smart woman.
1930s Afternoon Dresses
A woman would not wear her house dress out of the house. To shop, run errands, attend a tea or see a matinee she would need a smart afternoon or day dress. Often referred to as “city,”” metropolitan,” or “town tailored” these dresses were usually silk or rayon crepe, not cotton. They stuck with the standard silhouette and classic thirties features: puff sleeves, belted waits and large yokes and collars.
These dresses had more embellishment and detail than a house dress: embroidery, covered decorative buttons, shirring and ruching, bows, trapunto, and faux flower trimming were part of the array of details added to make a dress smarter for forays outside the house. They tended to be solid colors or more subdued prints.
1930s Evening Gowns
Silky, clinging fabrics were common in evening gowns, often worn with a fur. Fabrics that were popular included chiffon, silk, crepe-de-chines, and satin cut on the bias to create elegant, clingy, flowing lines. Metallic lame came into fashion as well. Evening dresses had hems that very nearly touched the floor and often had small trains in the back. Evening dresses were also very fitted in the waist, slim and fitted through the hips, easing out mid-thigh or just above the knees were they flared elegantly to the floor. There were gowns with puffs and ruffle sleeves and later in the decade high necks and halter styles with plunging backs were in fashion. The back-less gown is a signature of 1930s evening wear.
Nearly all modern formal gowns have their stylish roots back to the 1930s. Old Hollywood stars of the Golden Years remain icons for glamour on the runway. This year many current Hollywood stars chose to wear 1930s inspired gowns on the red carpet. It is a style that is a classic favorite in any decade.
1930s Women’s Pants
While rebellious women began wearing pants in earlier decades, in the 1930s there were several social situations that were acceptable to wear pants in public. Beach pajamas, a one-piece jumper with very wide leg pants, belted or fitted high waist and a slightly blousy than most 1930s fashion tops, became popular for a day at the beach or a “restful day at home.” Sportswear for tennis, hiking, picnics, skiing or even just watching sports featured pants and even shorts! The sailor inspired two piece “sailor middy” was a common sportswear outfit.
Pants generally were wide legged trousers with a front crease or very wide flowing Culottes that looked like a skirt when not moving, with a high fitted waist. The double button ‘sailor” front was common as was a side zipper or button closure. They were usually made of a durable cotton fabric like twill or wool for winter. Winter snow pants were wide but fitted at the ankle to prevent snow going in one’s boots.
Swimsuits and Beach Clothes
In addition to beach pajamas, women’s swimwear consisted of fitted wool one pieces with cotton jersey lining, a mini skit over boy shorts, and frequently little belts accentuating the waist. Usually they had simple tank straps and often low or even plunging backs. Sunbathing became a trend in the 1920’s and continued in the thirties as Coco Chanel and Hollywood stars encouraged the tan look. A tan began to mean one had time for leisure not that one had to work in the sun.
Some concern for too much sun started in the 30’s. Hollywood stars quickly adopted large sun hats and sunglasses into their beach side wardrobe. Open toe sandals too were becoming more common for beach side strolls. Even if a woman lived hundreds of miles from the Ocean she still dressed liked she was on vacation in Florida.
1930s Fashion Accessories
Accessories were very important to the cash-strapped 1930’s woman. Accessories could transform a simple dress into something very smart. As the decade progressed, and the worst of the depression passed, matching belt, glove, and bags sets, and belts dyed to match a dress exactly became popular.
Hats became a primary method to glam up an ensemble. A wide variety of hats were worn in the Thirties. The 20’s cloche and the beret lingered on from the previous decade. Straw hats in the summer, wide-brimmed gardening or garden party hats. The cloche evolved into the “slouch” hat, still worn low on the face but with much more of a brim, sometimes worn turned up.
Bags: Bags tended to be small flat clutches or “pochettes” and evening bags often had jeweled clasps. Bags got a little larger with handles as the decade wore on. Read more about 1930s purses.
Gloves: Gloves were worn with both day dresses and evening gowns. Daytime gloves were mid arm length gauntlet styles in fabric, crochet lace or soft leather. Gauntlet style gloves had flaring cuffs attached at the wrist, or embroidered turn-over cuffs, Elbow length gloves were still worn for some evening gowns but bare arm was preferred. There was a strict etiquette for what type of gloves to wear when and with what dress. Learn more here or shop vintage style gloves here.
Shoes: Women’s shoes in the 1930’s came in a wide variety, but walking oxfords were extremely popular. Shoes with cutouts such as pumps, t straps, ankle straps, low heel flats and sandals were everywhere. Cutouts are the one symbol of a 1930s shoe. Pumps had square heels, in patent leather or suede with a variety of decorative details like lacing, removable tongues or bows, and top stitching. Toward the end of the decade wedges began to appear. The T-strap shoe that was so popular in the 20’s lingered on.
Hollywood 1930s Fashion
What else did women wear in the 1930s? For some it was all about high fashion. Take a look at this 10 minute video about 1930s couture and Hollywood fashion history. The men’s one is also excellent.