To trace the history of the wing tipped shoe one must start at its
birthplace; the Isle of Skye. Although sources agree that the wing
shaped tip originated there, in shoe terminology the word tip describes
any shaped piece of material that covers the portion of the shoe distal
to the vamp, determining when the design first appeared is a detail that
has been lost to the sands of time. A study of politics may not seem
related to shoe history and many factors may influence why a particular
shoe became popular however wearing of the more relaxed, casual Oxford
shoe is generally viewed as a break from the more formal shoes and boots
of the previous century and a general easing away from the strait laced
rigidity of the Victorian era.
A type of Oxford styled shoe the wing tip spread through the United
Kingdom after its inception. Reportedly students attending Oxford
University helped reduce boot shaft height during the turn of the 19th
century by rebelliously preferring half boots to full length knee high
footwear. This resulted in the appearance of the Oxonian boot after
which the Oxford shoe was modeled. A similar rejection of the shortened
boots in favor of lower cut shoes at the beginning of the 20th century
gave the name of the town to the shoes students wore, the name stuck and
Oxford as a descriptive shoe term lives on today.
Originally marketed as an athletic leisure shoe for golfers much as the white
buck shoe was sold to tennis players of the day wing tipped shoe
sales rose during the early 20th century for several reasons: the
automobile is gradually replacing travel by horse decreasing the need
for boots (most women still wore boots to drive), city life becomes more
attractive than rural farm life which further decreases the desire for
boots, returning American soldiers prefer the roomy comfort and easy donning of the low
cut Oxford style shoes they discovered overseas, and shoes require less
material than boots making them cheaper to produce during a war time economy.
During the reign of Edward VII the short tuxedo coat paired with
formal shoes such as the wingtip become an increasingly acceptable mode
of daytime dress.
By 1910 the longer swallow tail coat and dress pumps are still
considered proper evening wear but are gradually losing their
stranglehold on nighttime formal dress apparel. As women's shoes are
mostly hidden under and beneath skirts not much attention is paid to
their footwear although Mary Janes, or bar shoes, are gaining in
popularity. Other shoe styles available for women at this time include
slippers, clogs, and boots with buttons.
Prosperity reigned during the 1920s however the next decade brought
sobering consequences for those who had enjoyed the highlife during the
glorious stock market rise. By the time the Great Depression hit the
United States of America boots are worn mainly by farmers and certain
factory workers although a notable exception is the cowboy boot. While
the wing tip shoe is now accepted as a business shoe the color scheme
has changed from black to brown. Knickers, which are worn with wingtips,
are banned by Oxford University in 1925. Wily students retaliated by
favoring baggy trousers that could be worn over the academically
Worldwide the 1930s is a decade of political unrest and instability,
setting the stage for the conflict known as World War II. Again the war
time economy directs goods towards munitions, uniforms, and rations and
away from retail and grocery stores. People who have money have few
items to purchase. Soldiers enjoy Wrigley's gum and Hershey's chocolate
bars along with Lucky Strike cigarettes while civilians have to make
due with Sen-Sen and makeup paint for legs as nylon has been diverted
towards parachute manufacturing. Cutout, Peep-toe, and slingback shoes
for women can be made with less material than shoes with full toe
coverings. Leather is in high demand for war time efforts. Fabric shoes
become more common. Light, material saving ballerina flats are popular
shoes for female students attending school during the 1940s.
Before World War II there were two main classes of citizens in the
United States: city dwellers and the rural populace. After the war a new
blend known as suburbia emerged. Shoe styles for women exploded as war
time restrictions vanished. Heels narrowed, the chunky wedge style of
the previous decade gives way to the sleeker, sexier, stiletto. Pumps
for women are popular, shoes for women can be found in virtually any
color to match any outfit imaginable. Young girls favor saddle shoes and
bobby socks however men are left with few choices and a much slimmer
color palate. Loafers and wingtips are standard dress fare. Crepe soled
brothel creepers made a brief appearance, other casual styles
including white buck shoes are worn although another shoe is gaining
market share as people with leisure time sport black Chuck
Business casual is a relatively recent term, for the majority of the
20th century suits were appropriate business attire. To address the
point fhayashi makes IBM expected its employees to wear dark suits,
gray was also permitted, knowledge of the dress code was expected and
anticipated. Thus far the wingtip has changed little through the
decades. That changes when a shoe known as the Longwing emerged during
the 1970s. Named for the wing extensions on the shoes which now extend
to the rear of the shoe, lasting of the shoe was redone. The result was a
trimmer, more modern shoe. Moving on into the 1980s the wingtip is
still a shoe for the business world which is considered dressier than
loafers of any style.
The 1990s as a decade is one I have personal experience with. After
college I was hired by a firm named Morgan Stanley Dean Witter Discover,
we were required to state the entire name when we answered the phone
since the merger with Morgan Stanley had just gone through. While I
remember spending $80 on a pearly silver pair of Etienne Aigner heels
that went surprisingly well with most of my suits every man I worked
with wore black dress shoes and most of them wore wingtips. My husband
was an IT drone for the now defunct Arthur Andersen, he had two pairs
of black dress shoes although his wingtips had a monk strap instead of
Wingtips suffered during the first part of the 21st century as more companies adopted business casual dress codes; today wingtips are making a comeback. Those who believe they can not
afford to purchase a good pair of
shoes or a nice suit are still able to shop for these goods. Inform
sales people that you are not able to purchase anything but
are interested in determining what cuts will work best for you. Building
your wardrobe around good supportive shoes shoes insures that your
body will remain in alignment as you go about whatever your day has in
store for you. Good shoes are relaxing,
stabilizing, confidence builders. Looking your best means knowing that
you have done your homework, shop at thrift stores if you must, try on
as many different pieces of clothing as you need to but do not settle
for anything less than a great fit which will stand you in good stead as
fashions come and go.
While a good pair of wing tipped shoes may set the wearer back,
properly cared for, these shoes can provide years of comfortable
utility. Wingtips are the travelers friend, able to smoothly transition
from airport to business meeting to supper date to theater outing. In a
pinch they can be worn on the golf course since they were originally
designed as a golf shoe. Requiring little in terms of maintenance all
shoes should be routinely shined and inspected for excess wear as early repairs may
save a shoe from ruin. While wingtips are frequently thought of as a
men's shoe, women's styles are also available, offering the same
functional advantages to what was formerly known as the fairer sex. A wardrobe building shoe for men and
women; consider the wingtip a foundation piece designed to
keep their owners in good standing.
- History of shoes with 20th century decade breakdown.
- Information on Oxford.
- Forbes article on the best men's shoes; includes a wear to shop guide.
- Edwardian era style guide.
- Men's footwear types.
shoe images. Search for the gentleman wearing a suit with the Balmoral
- The Shoe Snob: Polish your shoes properly.
- NY Times article.