Basic Llama Care
Some tenets of llama care are
no matter what kind of llamas you own or for what purpose.
basic feeding . . . supplemental feeding . . . vitamins
and minerals . . .
deworming . . . external parasites . . . inoculations . . . grooming . . . toenail
shelter . . . fencing
. . . space . . . companionship
neutering . . . "fighting teeth" . . . dental care
. . . giving oral
Food and water
Llamas evolved to consume poor-quality forage.
For much of the year in South America, llamas survive (though
not thrive) on foodstuffs with an average protein content of
2-4%. In North America, pasture quality ranges from somewhat
to significantly better, and thus llamas tend to get fat. Because
llamas are not naturally selected for maximum metabolic efficiency
in this country, the less-efficient members of the llama population
have survived, and in fact are better suited to the available
pasture. Still, it is often necessary to restrict llamas' access
to pasture for weight control for part or even all of the year,
particularly in the spring when forage is lush or when only a
few animals will be grazing a large area.
Some areas of the country cannot support adequate
pasture year-round. Others may have continual pasture, but during
some seasons, the quality of forage is extremely poor -- winter
pasture in the Pacific Northwest is largely devoid of nutrients,
for example. In these situations, llamas require additional feed.
Winter snows may cover pasture for days to months at a time.
At such times, llamas must have all of their feed provided. Both
situations are best addressed by feeding hay. A high-quality
grass hay is the best choice. Oat hay has excellent qualities
on paper, but some llamas don't care for it, and there is some
suspicion that the mature oat seeds, with their pointed ends
and size that matches llamas' third compartment sacules perfectly,
contribute to mechanical ulcers. Alfalfa
(including alfalfa-grass mix) is too rich for a llama's digestive
system and should only be fed to llamas that require more intense
supplemental feeding for medical reasons (see below).
A normal, nonworking adult llama needs to
consume about 1.2% in dry matter of his or her bodyweight
for maintenance. This figure will vary considerably when weather,
quality of foodstuffs, water content of the feed, and other factors
enter the equation. Whether you weigh the hay you feed or not,
provide only what will be cleaned up. If your llamas are leaving
hay, you are feeding too much. If they clean it up, try feeding
a bit more until you find right amount. Remember that "the
right amount" will change dramatically with the seasons.
* * * Important * * *
Whenever you purchase a
llama, be sure to find out what kind of hay s/he has been eating,
and buy a bale if possible so that you can make the feed transition
a gradual one. Changing abruptly from alfalfa to grass or vice-versa
(or even two different grass hays) can actually kill a llama
-- no kidding.
Some llamas do require supplemental feed.
Growing animals, pregnant and lactating females, studs during
breeding season, llamas performing hard physical work, and some
elderly llamas all frequently need a nutritional boost. Rescued
llamas almost always require nutritional support tailored to
correct previous dietary deficiencies. Supplementation is best
accomplished with pelleted formulas or grain mixes.
Pelleted feeds have the advantages of being
highly digestible (good for geriatric llamas with few or no teeth),
very consistent composition (any added fortification doesn't
end up at the top or bottom of the bag), and a longer storage
life than grains. The disadvantages of pelleted feeds are that
they all swell with the addition of water (llamas may choke if
pellets are eaten too rapidly, or they may bloat if a large quantity
of pellets are consumed followed by a lot of water) and that
the heated processes commonly used to manufacture pellets do
destroy some of the natural nutrients of the foodstuffs used.
Pelleted feed supplements should never be the sole form
of food for a llama -- these pellets do not contain enough roughage
for the digestive tract to operate properly, nor are they a properly
balanced diet. However, some pellets, such as those formulated
as the exclusive feed source for senior horses (complete feeds),
do contain adequate roughage and a proper nutrient balance.
Grain mixes come in many forms; the most common
mix is called COB (which stands for corn-oats-barley). Rolled,
crimped, or steamed grains break down more easily both in the
llama's gut and in storage. Whole grains store better, but may
pass right through those llamas with dental problems. Llamas
with problem teeth and/or bad gums also find grains are more
difficult or painful to chew. Grain mixes tend to have significantly
lower protein and fewer nutrients than pelleted formulas. "Wet"
COB has molasses added, which is not nutritionally necessary,
but some llamas find it much more desirable.
Some grain mixes have their nutritional content
boosted with pelleted or loose additives. Pellets are preferable
as a vehicle for fortification because the loose matter in grain
mixes tends to sift to the bottom of the bag, and also to be
left in the bottom of the feed bowl. Llamas' digestive systems
did not evolve the ability to handle large quantities of grain
or pellets, so even the most nutritionally needy should not receive
grain as more than 25% of their daily ration.
Purina Athlete, a high-fat extruded feed,
is a useful energy source for hard-working llamas. A very small
amount will do (1/2 cup twice a day) -- too much quickly becomes
obvious through increased urine and fecal odor and also "hot"
Purina Equine Senior and Nutreena/Life Design
Senior are two pelleted feeds formulated especially for the needs
of older horses. Both have been used for older llamas with good
results and no long-term detriment; Nutreena Senior is easier
to chew. Locally-formulated and milled senior horse feeds (Kropf's
Blue Ribbon Senior Horse in the southern Willamette Valley, for
example) may be better if they are formulated to compensate for
local nutritional deficiencies and surpluses. WARNING: Inspect
all horse feed labels, especially on senior feeds, for "microbials"
and "probiotics". These will be formulated to pass
through the stomach because horses are hind-gut fermenters, and
will not only do stomach-fermenting llamas no good whatsoever,
but will give llamas uncomfortable amounts of intestinal gas!
* * * Important * * *
Greedy eaters will choke
on supplements (and even hay). Because all types of pellets swell
with moisture, they can cause a particularly life-threatening
bottleneck in the event of a choke episode. Even choking on grain
and hay can cause esophageal scarring, increasing the likelihood
of a lethal choke.
Handfeed supplement to
eager eaters so you can require them to chew and swallow after
taking in a reasonable amount. Yes, it's time-consuming. So is
an emergency vet visit and carcass disposal. When handfed, most
"pellet-vacuum" llamas gain the confidence that their
food supply is not in danger and will grow out of their dangerous
Another essential step
is to eliminate as much mealtime stress as possible. For most
llamas, that's competition ... for a few, that's lack of companionship.
Adjust to the individuals you have!
Alfalfa and high-protein feeds are not a good
choice in hot weather, or for those llamas who are at risk for
kidney problems. A primarily-alfalfa diet does not have the proper
balance of major minerals, and many problems can result. However,
there is a place for a small amount of alfalfa
in some llamas' diets.
The addition of a small amount
of alfalfa may be warranted for certain llamas, particularly
if additional protein is required (ie, pregnant, lactating,and
growing llamas -- none of which are "beginner llamas"
for many reasons). If you are stuck with a poorer-quality grass
hay some winter, a small amount of alfalfa per
llama ups the total protein adequately (in the case of poor-quality
grass hay, other missing and deficient nutrients should be supplied
through supplemental feeding, above).
We have found that some llamas (primarily
those who have an easy time maintaining a healthy, trim weight
as young adults) require a bit of extra protein to compensate
for their less-efficient (though better-suited to domestic life
in North America) metabolism. Again, small amount
of alfalfa is all that's required.
We bet you are muttering, "So what's
a small amount?" Grab as much alfalfa as you
can possibly fit in your closed fist. Shake it so all the "kling-ons"
fall off the edges. What's left is a one-day serving for one
adult llama. (And now you know how much to grab in the first
place.) Safety check: If you are continually finding leftover
alfalfa stems, you are feeding 'way too much (unless
the llama in question is the only one with access to the alfalfa
-- first check his or her molars to see if the llama has more
tender gum than tough grinding surface left).
Vitamins and minerals
Llamas require supplemental vitamins and minerals
to maintain optimum health. Don't be fooled into believing that
llamas need special llama minerals and/or vitamins. Vitamin
and mineral deficiencies are regional, not species-specific,
so your first step should be to contact your county extension
agent or your veterinarian to find out what deficiencies exist
in your area.
exist in much of the country. Some areas, however, have locally
toxic selenium levels. Some people recommend injectable selenium,
but injectable supplementation -- although it is more quickly
absorbed -- typically only gives higher selenium levels for a
week or two. Injectable selenium should be reserved for treatment
of individual llamas who actually have a selenium deficiency,
and only used until the deficiency has been corrected.
Copper is also
deficient in some areas; however, a local deficiency of molybdenum
can cause copper toxicity. Copper-to-molybdenum ratios should
be between 6:1 and 10:1. Most non-regional "llama"
formulas do not contain enough copper.
Some individual llamas are prone to a zinc
deficiency that causes skin problems; others live in areas that
are zinc deficient. Except for those llamas, heavy zinc supplementation
is not generally necessary. Unfortunately, many non-regional
"llama" formulas overdo the zinc.
A few llamas have difficulty absorbing iron.
These llamas don't respond well to iron supplementation because
the problem is not their diet, but in their own metabolism. Normal
llamas usually receive adequate iron in their diet. A llama who
has been diagnosed with anemia or a heavy internal parasite load
may benefit from short-term oral iron supplementation with a
blood-building product such as Lixotinic®.
It is important to understand
that both zinc and iron supplementation in excess decreases copper
absorption, and thus may lead to copper deficiency in some regions.
Additional calcium and phosphorous are
often required, particularly for growing, pregnant, and lactating
llamas, and must be present in a specific ratio to each other.
(Vitamin D is also necessary for calcium and phosphorus
utilization -- see below). Crooked and weak bones are a common
result of calcium/phosphorous deficiencies and imbalances. An
optimum ratio is presumed to be 2:1 as in other species, with
a permissible range of 1:1 to 6:1. Remember that alfalfa is very
high in calcium and will alter the total dietary balance. High
dietary calcium levels can interfere with zinc absorption.
Salt will be
necessary in all areas and should be available free-choice.
Regionally-formulated mineral mixes and mineral
blocks are usually available and are highly recommended. If you
use a mineral mix or block, do not provide additional salt --
it is already present in the minerals, and an additional salt
source may result in one or more of the llamas "filling
up" on salt at the salt lick and then not consuming enough
minerals. Loose minerals can be spilled, become caked from atmospheric
moisture, or be contaminated by droppings (llama or rodent).
Soft mineral blocks avoid these drawbacks and have the
added benefit of providing enjoyable diversion for the llamas.
Unlike hard "trace-mineralized" salt blocks, soft mineral
blocks provide a complete source of all major minerals, and are
easily consumed by llamas. Sweetlix® is a brand that is nationally
available and has several formulations.
Vitamin supplementation can be boosted easily by purchasing a well-balanced
powdered or granulated vitamin-mineral supplement for horses
and adding an appropriate amount of it (determined by your llama's
weight) to a small amount (1/2 to 1 cup) of grain. (This is in
addition to the free-choice minerals -- not a substitute!) If
you find yourself rescuing a growing, pregnant, or lactating
llama, calcium and phosphorous can be added to the diet in the
same manner -- dicalcium phosphate is a good source for both.
To get the expensive goodies to stick to the
tasty goodies, mix the two with a small amount of A, D &
E fortified wheat germ oil. The additional vitamin D is particularly
important for young llamas in climates with seasonally restricted
sunlight, such as the Pacific Northwest. Vitamin D supplementation
may also be appropriate for older llamas, as it is for older
° ° ° ° °
Breeding females also have additional dietary
needs pre-breeding, at different stages of pregnancy, and during
lactation. It makes good sense that people who've not yet mastered
basic nutrition for normal adult llamas have absolutely NO business
making more llamas. However, more and more responsible people
are finding themselves saddled with pregnant females because
they've taken pity on llamas that really needed rescuing. If
you need detailed information on supplementing reproductive females,
email jimandgwen (at) lostcreekllamas dot com for help with your
Clean, fresh, unfrozen water should always
be available free-choice. When temperatures are above freezing,
many options exist from 30-gallon plastic garbage cans to automatic
waterers. Be sure that other animals (especially waterfowl) can't
get into the water -- some llamas won't drink water that they
consider dirty; others will drink fouled water. In either case,
the result is one or more seriously ill llamas.
When temperatures remain below freezing, stock
tank heaters (securely mounted!) or heated-bottom buckets can
be used. The buckets are generally safer, but only hold five
gallons each. Outlet-mounted submersible heaters installed in
stock tanks are also a safe option. In both cases, the heater
cord must be protected from chewing (remember that other species
besides llamas may use the cord for dangerous entertainment).
If temperatures only dip below freezing at night, you may be
able to merely knock the layer of ice off the water once or twice
Waterers placed out of the sun don't thaw
as quickly, however, they do not need to be cleaned as often
-- sunlight encourages algal growth.
* * * Important * * *
Llamas may not consume
enough (or even any) water during sudden cold snaps. A heated
water source is ideal, but not always possible, practical, or
Watch closely for llamas
that shiver but have an elevated rectal temperature. Although
you should also consider consulting a veterinarian and/or administering
an antibiotic in case these llamas are actually ill, immediately
offer these llamas warmed water, and call their attention to
it repeatedly until they drink. If dehydration is in fact the
cause, the llama will drink deeply and then typically stop shivering
within a half hour and have a normal rectal temperature within
an hour or two.
Llamas may be tough, but they require shelter
in all but the mildest climates. In hotter areas, a breezy shelter
provides essential shade. In windy and rainy areas, llamas are
usually very quick to take advantage of available shelter (there
are exceptions, such as llamas who have been trapped and/or abused
in shelters). In rainy areas or in climates with heavy snowfall,
shelter is essential to provide llamas with a dry place to kush
and stand, thus minimizing damage to foot pads, the opportunistic
fungi that love llamas' undersides, and various unhealthy conditions
that can be lumped under the catch-all category of "rain
Shelter can be simple or elaborate. The essentials
- dry flooring
- two and preferably three solid sides aligned
against the prevailing winds
- 40 sq feet per llama minimum floor space
(that's assuming that all of the llamas in question are compatible)
with a minimum size of 8x8 for a single llama.
- a minimum interior height of seven feet (taller
Most people find that having a place to feed
hay under shelter is ideal, but that also means an increase in
the necessary space to keep squabbling and fecal soiling of spilled
hay to a minimum.
You may have heard that llamas won't soil
their shelter. Although exceptions do exist, the vast majority
of llama owners agree that llamas actually prefer to defecate
and urinate in the privacy of their barn! It is possible to pick
the area you'd like the llamas to use for a toilet and train
them gradually to use it, although this is virtually impossible
in crowded conditions.
Although you may think bedding makes the shelter
look all snuggly and warm, bedding is rarely preferrable. Unless
recently shorn, llamas' coats usually keep them quite warm enough,
and bedding actually makes sanitation a much greater effort.
For the few times when bedding is truly necessary or desirable,
always use straw, and clean it every day or more often before
feces get scattered below the bedding and necessitate bedding
removal and replacement (all that straw is bulky and not an easy
matter to dispose of).
For flooring, packed dirt or clay are both
very good; rubber mats with either small holes for drainage or
an open area for the "toilet" is as good, but much
more expensive. Normal-sized gravel ("three-quarter minus")
and round rock are both impossible to separate from feces, but
pea gravel (if you can find it) outstanding flooring because
it can be packed flat and it allows urine to drain off; it also
won't mix with straw or hay. Turf is also good for short-term
displays and open-sided, summer shelters -- but don't expect
the grass to last very long.
Whatever you do, never
bed llamas on wood shavings, wood chips, and avoid sand as flooring
material. Llamas gleefully roll in
all three. The bedding material is quickly ground into the animals'
coats, and feces and urine are thoroughly mixed with bedding
in the process, creating amoniac, unsanitary and unpleasant living
conditions within a very short time. Although sand can be blown
out of the coat (over several days and with effort on your part)
after the llama is removed from the source, a single roll in
shavings results in tiny wood slivers and splinters remaining
for as long as a year, ruining the fleece (of fiber producers)
and making all llamas very uncomfortable. For that reason, also keep wood shavings and wood
chips out of llamas' pastures!
You will greatly appreciate having lights
in the llama shelter (particularly if you work dayshift), and
having both lights and an electrical outlet (with weatherproof
covers and on a GFI circuit for safety) can prove invaluable
in an emergency.
A gate to close up the shelter and keep the
llamas inside proves to be very handy, and can in fact be the
best way to catch marginally-trained llamas, particularly if
you feed in the shelter. We also have at least one gate in each
shelter that usually stays against the wall, but can be swung
out to divide the shelter area so that a sick llama can be kept
in familiar surroundings, yet safe from aggressive or concerned
pasturemates while still allowing those other llamas access to
adequate shelter in inclement weather.
Llamas will often stay inside anything once
they are familiar with their area. This trait is directly attributable
to llamas' strong territorial nature. However, situations change,
and llamas who were once content may suddenly show you that the
fencing you thought was containing them is actually not
strong enough, high enough, or safe enough.
Four feet is the minimum height for average
use. Five feet is better, and is strongly recommended for separating
llamas of opposite sexes, aggressive animals, and average jumpers.
Genetically talented jumping llamas can clear barriers up to
eight feet. Fortunately, these animals are relatively rare.
Just about every kind of fencing has been
used to contain llamas; however, a number of common types pose
significant danger or prove inadequate for some llamas:
- Barbed wire is not only unnecessary, but
potentially dangerous. Llama wool can catch and wrap around barbs,
and may actually immobilize a woolly llama. The barbs can cut
any llama's face, ears, and legs when he or she puts extremeties
through or over the fencing purposely to eat or investigate,
or accidently, such as in a scuffle.
- Stiff fencing with openings large enough
to allow legs and/or necks to pass through (such as cattle and
hog panels) are dangerous and should not be used around some
llamas, particularly males, late geldings, and crias.
- Electric fencing will not deter a determined
llama. Some llamas learn to ground the fence, or to at least
take quick advantage of any "natural" grounding or
power outage. Others simpy ignore the temporary discomfort of
the electrical shock in order to get at what they want.
- Fencing such as New Zealand high-tensile
and smooth or barbed wire allows dogs and other predators (such
as bears) to pass or push through. A squabble between two llamas
can be deadly when the combatants get legs through these fences.
Even when electrified, these fences are potential llama
- Welded wire will break as llamas rub against
it. "Knotted" fencing such as field fence and "non-climb"
are much safer and more economical choices in the long run.
- "T-posts" can cause serious damage
to a llama that stands up on his or her hind legs at the fence
and comes down on a post top. You can buy plastic caps for the
tops of t-posts.
We have been most satisfied with five-foot
non-climb horse fencing for most situations. We prefer six-foot
non-climb around trees and on the stud side of the double fenceline
separating studs from females. We use treated round (peeler core)
posts with a top rail for visibility and to keep the llamas from
pushing down the top of the fence fabric. Although we use lightweight
tube gates (some with a piece of hog panel welded into the bottom)
in some areas, we prefer heavier steel gates with 2x4 mesh for
llama safety whenever practical.
Some additional tips:
- Llamas can run into and be seriously (or
fatally) injured by low-visibility fencing. A good solution is
to initially "flag" the fence until the llamas learn
where it is. A more permanent and aesthetic solution is to add
rails, either on the top or one on top and one in the middle
of each section.
- Intact llamas of opposite sexes are best
separated by double fences at least ten feet apart and five or
six feet high.
- Territorial and aggressive llamas are the
most difficult to contain, and require thoughtful management
to avoid provoking them ... in addition to maxium strength fencing.
Because both territorialism and aggression are heritable, castration
is an important additional management tool.
Mental and emotional needs
Llamas evolved as creatures of open spaces.
Llamas who are kept in small enclosures or paddocks show an incredible
transformation when provided with the opportunity to roam a larger
area. The ability to put some distance between self and herdmates
and still have enough to eat is a basic need for all grazing
animals; llamas in particular prefer to spread out over a larger
area than other ungulates. Llamas also enjoy the opportunity
to explore new areas and to sample varied flora.
Llamas also experience considerable physical
benefits from adequate space. A varied diet is not just more
interesting, it is more natural -- and healthier -- for llamas
to consume. Llamas also need exercise, and running around in
a large, open area can fulfill that need. Even moving constantly
while grazing tones muscles and burns calories.
The most difficult part of providing adequate
space for llamas is that most North American pastures are too
rich -- and most llamas continually kept in large areas become
far too obese, which certainly negates most of the advantages
of having a large area. This difficulty is most commonly addressed
by keeping the llamas in a smaller, relatively sparse area for
the night and perhaps part of the day, and then allowing them
free access to a large area for several hours or more. The precise
amount of "out time" will depend on your geographic
area, the time of year, and the amount and health of the forage
available. When llamas do not have continual access to the larger
area, they will generally spend more time running and less time
eating in the larger area, which does help combat the fat problem.
Pasture varies tremendously throughout the
country and with the seasons. A good starting point is to figure
3-4 compatible geldings and/or females for llama-only pastures
with a lot of forage, and 1-1.5 llamas per acre for poorer pasture
or with horses/cattle/other big grazers. Late geldings and studs
need 1-2 acres per llama for social reasons, and thus
are best pastured with grazing animals of other species to keep
the forage at a managable level. A stud who must be pastured
singly during breeding season should have at least a half-acre
to roam, and preferrably more. He is unlikely to put on excess
weight during that time, and too small an area will allow other
llamas too close for his territorial instincts to handle -- thus
a small area can keep a stud so anxious that it is impossible
to keep adequate weight on him.
In many parts of the country, winter means
that compromises must be made between space to roam and future
pasture health. During harsh weather, many llamas (when given
a choice) prefer to stay in a sheltered area that will conserve
heat and allow their soft foot pads adequate time to dry out.
Snow may also mean that constant maintenance -- more than is
humanly possible with a large pasture -- is necessary to keep
llamas inside the fence instead of waltzing over the top. A good
management practice for the winter months is to provide as much
dry-floored shelter as possible, and restrict the llamas to a
small area or paddock (a "sacrifice pasture") around
the shelter. When weather and other conditions allow, the llamas
might be allowed an occasional few hours in the larger pasture
as a "vacation."
Llamas need at least one other llama for their
mental and emotional well-being. Although prospective owners
on a limited budget may be suspicious that this is a way to sell
two llamas instead of just one, this is unfortunately not true.
Llamas who are deprived of llama company predictably develop
neroses, from barely detectible but serious depression to obvious
distress, and from abnormal interests in other species to severe
aggression directed at "intruders," including humans.
Fortunately, it is possible to obtain a llamower-quality companion
for your single llama at very little initial cost. One option
is to adopt one or more rescued llamas. We don't recommend cheap
auction llamas, however. That's a good way to introduce expensive
problems into your herd.
Most llamas are only truly happy with other
llamas. Females in particular have a strong natural need to be
part of a group. The best herd size for a group of llamas is
usually four to six animals, although certain individuals can
make or break the group peace no matter what the group size.
Most llamas adapt well to being one of a pair, although human
ineptitude can easily result in two llamas who will never go
If the herd size gets too large, two groups
may form. With adequate space, this may not be a problem, but
if pastures are crowded, the amount of squabbling and even fighting
Adult intact male llamas are often a constant
irritant in an otherwise well-adjusted herd. Males who are continually
stirring up trouble are excellent candidates for castration;
those males who are getting along have the best chance of producing
the most managable and enjoyable offspring. Ultimately, mature
breeding stud llamas have no ability to appreciate llama companionship
other than that of "their" females (who cannot be copastured
with studs without incurring certain risks). Intact males are
also most prone to developing uncontrollable aggressive behavior
when kept alone. Former studs do return to desiring llama companionship
after castration, and also gradually lose their antagonistic
Some llamas are highly territorial and want
to protect certain creatures in their territory and expel all
others. These llamas are happiest when employed as livestock
guards, and they may be disruptive and unhappy in an all-llama
* * * Important * * *
In other species, males
can be castrated and kept with females. Unfortunately,
this just isn't possible with llamas.
Males castrated prior
to 12-15 months and prior to any sexual experience can usually
be kept safely with females for a while. However, ALL geldings
eventually develop sexual interest that will be aimed at any
female herdmates, even if the geldings were never allowed
any actual sexual experience prior to castration. Not uncommonly,
that sexual interest is foisted on gelded and intact herdmates
Initial symptoms that a
gelding is penetrating a female herdmate are obvious to the knowledgeable
llama observer: the female is grouchy, irritable and defensive
most of the time, suddenly "schmoozy" for a few days,
then back to grouchy . . . and the cycle repeats. Depending on
her coat type and condition, the female may also develop a "twiggy"
tail, worn fiber on her back, and even sores or patches of missing
skin. Although some of this may seem immaterial, the long-term
effects are extensive reproductive tract scarring, infection,
infertility, illness, and eventually untimely death for the female(s).
They evolved to have intercourse only a dozen or so times in
their lives -- not around 120 times in a single year.
A sexually-active gelding
is at some risk as well -- he may damage his penis if hair from
the female wraps around it and cuts or strangulates it. (All
conscientious llama breeders take steps to ensure that the female's
tail hair is safely confined before allowing a valuable stud
to have access to her.) In "the wild," this damage
ensures that no one male will dominate the gene pool. In domestication,
it may mean the eventual loss of your animal's life if infection
sets in or if the functional urinary tract is damaged.
Another risk to pasturing
one or more geldings with one or more females is that some geldings'
territorial instincts are triggered by the living arrangement.
Such a gelding will fight being taken from "his property,"
will "act berserk" if the female is ever removed, and
may attack anyone he perceives might harm or compromise his access
to "his" female. Once these instincts are triggered,
the only sure cure is removal of the territorial gelding to a
different, single-sex farm.
The best and
easiest policy is to decide whether you prefer geldings or females,
and then buy only the one or the other.
If it's too
late for to follow that advice,
always keep your females and your geldings in separate pastures
DO NOT be tricked
into buying female-gelding combinations, period.
Routine health care
* * * Important * * *
No drugs are yet approved
for use in llamas. ALL of the products mentioned below fall under
what's known as extra-label use
when they are used in
llamas, meaning that it is illegal to use any of these products
-- even the over-the-counter products -- in llamas except under
the direct supervision or order of a licensed veterinarian. In
practice, llama owners routinely administer such drugs on their
own, but with the risk that an adverse reaction could occur,
or that the product might be ineffective. In both cases, there
is no legal recourse.
Internal parasite control
Improperly chosen dewormers can be as ineffective
as not deworming at all. All dewormers are ineffective against
several significant species of internal parasites. For example,
if nematodiris spp. are infesting your llamas, ivermectin products
will do little good. If strongyles are the problem, moxidectin
is usually the better choice. Rotating or alternating deworming
products throughout the year may be necessary to get all species,
however, rotation for the sake of rotation (ie, without a plan)
only accidentally and occasionally results in effective parasite
In addition, nearly all internal parasites
have an active season and a dormant season, so you will need
to deworm at the proper times of year. For example, if you deworm
in January (in most areas), you just wasted your money and left
your llamas without the protection they will need come spring
-- in winter, llamas won't be picking up parasites from their
pasture, and most adult parasites they had have done their damage
and are probably (or will soon be) dead of old age and gone.
Please consult with your veterinarian to develop
an appropriate, effective deworming schedule for your own llamas.
He or she may (correctly) recommend doing fecals on at least
some of your llamas, particularly if they are showing outward
signs of infestation.
A very useful means of environmental fluke
control is an adequate population of mature, foraging ducks.
Ducks can't completely prevent fluke problems, but they can greatly
reduce them by eating snails, which are an essential intermediate
host for the liver fluke parasite.
Deer can carry unwelcome parasites into your
pasture. In some areas of the county, those parasites can be
lethal. Fencing out deer can be a challenge, but if you put up
five- or six-foot fencing and leave deer corridors around the
perimeters, you will find that most of the deer will stay out
of your pastures most of the time.
Types of dewormers we have successfully used in llamas:
* * * Important * * *
any of the following drugs falls under the category of "extra-label
use" and must be done only by or on the direct order of
your veterinarian !
available as Eqvalan, Zimecterin, Equimectrin (pastes); Ivomec
(injectable and pour-on);
- Generally considered to be effective against
a wide range of parasite species and stages, and also generally
considered safer due to paralytic action rather than toxic principles.
Best choice for trichuria spp. (whipworms).
- We use the oral paste form at the same rate
as for horses, rounded up to the next 50 pounds.
- Pour-ons have produced temporary neurological
symptoms in llamas, and also are reported to be less effective
against internal parasites; we do not use them for those reasons.
- Injectable ivermectin does sting, and also
carries a risk of clostridial infections, so we do not use the
- Realize that many llama owners continue to
use pour-on and injectable forms for their own convenience and
without assessing their efficacy.
- We advise against use of ivermectin during
the last 30 days of pregnancy.
available as Quest (oral gel) and Cydectin (pour-on)
- Effective against somewhat fewer parasite
species than ivermectin products, but has a longer residual action
against larval stages of strongyles. Like ivermectin, moxidectin
is a paralytic rather than a toxin. Unfortunately, moxidectin
is comparatively expensive.
- We use the oral gel form at the same rate
as for horses, rounded up to the nearest 50 pounds. We do not
use the pour-on preparation for internal parasites because we
(and others) have not had good results with other pour-ons.
- We have seen reactions to the pour-on form
in some llamas and have not been able to determine why some react
and others do not. The affected llamas have obvious coordination
impairment when backing up, turning to the side, and sometimes,
kushing. The symptoms do abate in about a week.
- Because of the chemical relationship to ivermectin,
we advise against use of moxidectin during the last 30 days of
-- available as Valbazen (liquid drench)
- Effective against liver flukes (adults only!),
tapeworms, and a fairly wide range of parasite species (including
nematodiris spp.), all at the standard dose. Very economical
if you can buy a bottle and share with quite a few friends before
the expiration date (typically 6-8 months); expensive if you
- Because albendazole does not affect immature
flukes (which cause most of the damage to the liver), do not
rely on it for fluke prevention or control.
- We are dosing at the cattle rate (1 ml per
25 pounds of body weight)
- The label warns against use in cattle during
the first 45 days of pregnancy; there have been abortions, stillbirths,
and birth defects associated with (although not absolutely proven
to be caused by) the use of albendazole in llamas during the
first 45 days of pregnancy.
- We do not use this product in the first
four months of a llama's pregnancy.
available as Curatrem (drench)
- Effective against immature and adult liver
flukes ONLY. Long shelf life (about 5 years), but very expensive
and sometimes difficult to locate.
- When used at the right time of year and at
appropriate intervals (or every 28-30 days year-round in heavily
infested pastures), clorsulon is an effective means of fluke
- We are dosing at the cattle rate (0.37 ml
per 10 pounds of body weight)
- We use clorsulon in combination with fenbendazole
(given a few days apart) for llamas in early pregnancy if the
rest of the herd is receiving albendazole (Valbazen).
- Rare individuals may experience a bellyache
after receiving clorsulon.
* * * Note * * *
Clorsulon and ivermectin
are also available in a combination injection as "Ivomec
Plus." This form does not affect immature liver flukes (which
cause most of the damage to the liver), so do
not rely on it for fluke
prevention or control.
-- available as Safeguard and Panacur (both pastes; Safeguard
is also available as a drench, a pellet and a block)
- Not quite as effective in some respects as
ivermectin products, but does have superior performance against
some species of parasites, particularly nematodiris spp. For
tapeworms, the dose must be tripled to be effective; we prefer
albendazole for tapes.
- We use the oral paste form and dose at the
- The pellet form is difficult to chew and
our llamas would eat it the first time, but usually refused it
thereafter. The block form makes dosage rate impossible to control.
We have not tried the drench.
- We do not use any fenbendazole product
during the first 90 days of pregnancy.
We now have evidence that fenbendazole, when administered during
a small time window, may be responsible for certain serious birth
defects, including some forms of choanal atresia, both full and
partial. Until disproven, better safe than sorry.
- We do not use any fenbendazole product in
llamas under age one year, and avoid using fenbedazole in llamas
under age two years. We have data that indicates fenbendazole
may be responsible for temporary growth cessation in young llamas.
- Fenbendazole does not appear to have any
detrimental effects in llamas over two years, nor in pregnant
llamas after the first 90 days.
-- available as Albon (injectable); also generic brands
- highly effective against coccidia; most effective
if the affected llamas can be moved to a "clean" pasture
afterwards (or in mid-treatment) while their systems recover
- dosage is the same as for cattle/calves
- course of treatment lasts five days; the
first day's dose is twice as high as days two through five
- use only in llamas that have actually been
diagnosed with coccidia
Notes about scheduling deworming and choosing dewormers
Purge dewormers are more effective when they
are given twice in a season in order to get the parasites that
were previously eggs and thus unaffected by the first dose. We
usually deworm twice, about three weeks apart, in the spring
and again in the fall.
If you and your veterinarian believe that
your pasture harbors liver flukes, dose all llamas with a flukicide
(albendazole followed by clorsulon, or clorsulon only) in 2 to
8 week intervals (consult with your veterinarian to select the
best interval for your situation) during the vulnerable season
(usually from the onset of warm weather).
If fecal exams reveal elevated levels of a
specific parasite, have your veterinarian help you choose the
best dewormer for that species and the most appropriate deworming
interval for it's life cycle.
We weigh all llamas before administering most
kinds of dewormers.
We have been finding that around age 3 months,
crias' weight gain slows, but responds well to an initial deworming
with ivermectin or moxidectin at that time.
(Strongid, also called Strongid P, available as a paste) is only
effective in monogastric species (such as dogs, horses, and swine).
Although it has been used without reported harm in llamas, it
is not adequately effective as a dewormer because camelids (that
includes llamas!) and ruminants deactivate the drug before it
gets to where most of the parasites are. Pyrantel tartrate
(Strongid C, a pelleted form to be fed every day) has reported
efficacy against several parasite species when given to true
ruminants, but we have not used it in our llamas, and so can't
comment on it.
* * * Important * * *
If you have a llama with
liver flukes, administration of a flukicide (albendazole or clorsulon)
can result in severe illness and possibly death. Left untreated,
liver flukes will eventually kill llamas. Yes, it's a Catch-22.
Discuss the risks, alternatives, and necessary simultaneous supportive
therapy with your veterinarian before administering flukicides.
Important * * *
In areas where meningal
worm is present, it is necessary to treat all llamas with an
injectable ivermectin product every 28 days in order to kill
the immature worms before they can reach the spinal cord, where
they commonly cause paralysis and/or permanent nerve damage,
and are very difficult to eradicate. Your veterinarian can tell
you if "m-worm" is a concern in your area, and also
help you formulate an effective program to prevent m-worm in
Administering dewormers and topical parasitides
Paste and gel dewormers are best put well back in the mouth at the bottom
of the area between the cheek and lower gum, not on the
tongue. Most are formulated to be rather sticky, so even
coughing and spitting llamas seldom "return" any of
the product -- IF it was placed correctly.
can be easily administered with a curved-tip infusion syringe
(ask your veterinarian for a few). You will have to measure the
dose separately because there are no marks on the infusion syringes.
Tuck the entire tip in the corner of the llama's mouth (the syringe
opening should then face the llama's throat). Hold the mouth
shut and elevate the chin slightly if necessary to discourage
a spitter or drooler. Wait until the llama swallows before letting
must be applied very carefully to be effective; this can be nearly
impossible on ungroomed llamas. Take a pair of slicker brushes
and brush open a deep part (to the skin) along the llama's spine.
Apply the product to the skin. Brush the fiber back over the
part (it is good practice to always discourage fiber parting
along the spine).
Caution: pour-ons are less effective against
internal parasites than oral and injectable forms. Also, some
pour-ons can render fiber less desirable or even useless for
a time, and they can also make a classic llama's coat bind up
and painful to groom.
Caution: no pour-on product has been formulated
for llamas, so they may absorb it more rapidly than cattle, which
can in turn lead to temporary paralysis or paralysis-like reactions.
Don't use pour-ons if you will be doing anything with the treated
llamas afterwards or if you will not be around to monitor them.
Injectable formulations -- see information on giving
Lice are the most common external parasite
of llamas. Our experience is that "clean" llamas stay
clean of lice, and once lice are properly eradicated, llamas
will not need further treatment unless they are exposed to contaminated
llamas or contaminated bedding. Llamas have their own louse species,
but some people who keep llamas with sheep have indicated that
sheep lice apparently will infest llamas.
Adult lice can rarely be seen, but the nits
(eggs) are readily visible in colored wool. Heaviest concentrations
are found on the llama's flanks and thighs. For llamas with light
colored or white wool, you will have to brush, comb, or shear
(depending on coat type) a sample from the abdomen just in front
of the rear legs and spread the fiber over a dark cloth. Look
closely for nits attached to the hair shafts.
There are no delousing products labeled for
or approved for use on llamas We have tried medicated shampoos
and livestock dusts with mixed success. Both must be repeated
several times to get the new lice that hatch after application.
There are numerous pour-on preparations available
for cattle and sheep. Cydectin pour-on has worked best for us
and has the advantage of not causing grooming difficulties, but
it does leave a purple streak down the animals' backs and some
llamas do react with temporary coordination impairment. We did
have good success with a single application of Dectomax pour-on
(doramectin) at the cattle dose (1 ml per 22 pounds body weight),
but it caused significant grooming and shearing difficulties,
so we no longer use or recommend it.
All pour-on products for lice must be applied
carefully and correctly on llamas if they are to be effective
at all (see above: administering dewormers). Some require that
the animals remain dry afterwards. Read the directions carefully.
Also remember that no pour-on product has been formulated for
llamas, so they may absorb it more rapidly than cattle, which
can in turn lead to temporary paralysis or paralysis-like reactions.
Don't use pour-ons if you will be doing anything with the treated
llamas afterwards or if you will not be around to monitor them.
Finally, do not use a pour-on preparation
for lice and deworm the same llama(s) with any product in the
same drug class within a week before or after. The combination
could result in an overdose.
Other external parasites
Ticks may also be affected by externally-applied
preparations. Injectable ivermectin was once said to be effective
against ticks, but that has been called into question. We have
no experience with ticks in our area, but Dusty did pick one
up while packing out of the area -- despite a travel-permit-required
injection with ivermectin less than two weeks prior to his last
opportunity to pick up the nasty thing!
* * * Important * * *
Like dewormers and external
parasitides, no specific vaccines have been tested in llamas.
As such, administration of any of the following drugs falls under
the category of "extra-label use" and must be done only by or on the
direct order of your veterinarian.
It is also unknown how effective, if at all,
each vaccine may be in llamas. Most llama owners assume that
their llamas derive some protection from being inoculated.
Please consult with your veterinarian to formulate
a vaccination program that is appropriate for your own llamas.
If you want to learn how to give injections yourself, ask your
veterinarian to show you how, and see injections,
-- We use a vaccine against Clostridium C & D and Tetanus
(sometimes called "CD/T" or "three-way").
Other llama owners use "7-way" and "8-way"
vaccines. Just because a vaccine is effective against many things
does not mean that it includes tetanus -- you need to check to
be sure. It is not known how long protection is conferred; we
now give boosters every two years based on limited evidence that
titers are still very adequate after one year.
-- We use a "5-way" vaccine against five common strains
of leptospirosis. It is not known if or how long protection is
conferred; we currently give a single booster one year after
-- Depending on your situation, your veterinarian may recommend
additional vaccines. In some states, rabies vaccination is required
* * * Note * * *
We do not inoculate with
any vaccine against clostridial diseases on the same day that
we deworm a llama with an ivermectin product. Most llamas are
fine, but a few show definite discomfort (moderate to severe)
for about 24 hours after receiving the two in combination.
The first and most important part of grooming
is to identify the llama's wool type. There are three
wool types (actually two true types and a cross between the two),
and each type is groomed differently.
The two defining features of classic llamas
- a double coat with abundant guard hair, and
- regular, seasonal sheds when dead underwool
combs out easily
If your llama does not comb out easily, no
matter how short the fiber is, it is NOT a classic llama. The
only exception is a llama whose grooming has been so neglected
that there is no hope of telling whether it is a classic llama
or a cross. In any case, if the llama's coat won't comb, DO NOT
comb it! It will only frustrate you and hurt the llama terribly.
Shearing a classic llama is not only unnecessary,
it is potentially dangerous. The shedding double-coat (not fleece!)
of the classic llama relies on abundant guard hair rather than
density for weather protection. A shorn classic coat is too sparse
after shearing to maintain body heat in inclement weather, and
the protective guard hairs will be too short to shed rain and
snow or deter insects. A shorn classic llama will burn much more
easily through it's sparse coat than a shorn, dense-fleeced woolly
or crossbred llama.
Classic llamas will maintain a clean, healthy
coat with occasional grooming. Very regular grooming can also
allow some near-classic crosses to be kept free of dead fiber
and mats. Combing minimizes the risk of heat stress as well or
better than shearing, and also leaves adequate protection from
inclement weather. In short, a combed classic llama is a true
After combing, your classic llama needs no
special care, but if s/he had any heavily matted parts, s/he
may be a bit sensitive in those areas for a few days.
The grooming tools we recommend for classic
- slicker brush - Safari soft slicker, size
These are pretty common and many brands can
be found in most pet stores. However, we've tried several
other brands with poor to very bad results, so we do NOT recommend
experimenting with other brands. You can find the Safari
brushes on a number of internet pet supply sites.
An ergonomic mat rake with rounded tines.
Somewhat difficult to find on the internet (and impossible locally
for most people), no doubt because the expense of genuine USA
manufacturing trumps quality for the average buyer. These are
well worth the money in our experience, but may not be available
The wooden-handled models have significantly
better durability, but some of them have more pointed tines and
require sensitivity from the human. Great news -- the Aaronco
v-rake has finally returned to production! The rounded tines
don't jab llamas. However, don't use these on fleeced (non-Classic)
llamas, as the handles will weaken and break.
The slicker is used to break apart felting
fiber tips, dried mud, and remove surface vegetation. Regular
brushing decreases combing time markedly by removing dead fiber
as it is shed and before mats form. On llamas that have been
dematted to the skin, the slicker can also be used to gradually
remove embedded vegetation and debris and mats that are just
starting to form.
The comb or rake is used to remove dead underwool.
A llama's wool grows out, not down, and so the rake is used primarily
with a "picking" motion to tease mats and dead fiber
clusters from the live wool without undue pulling and pain. The
Mat Raker does a good job of getting from the surface to the
middle of the coat (important because penetrating the entire
coat right off causes pain when the shed is not yet complete);
we then follow up with the v-rake. A complete combing should
be done once in the spring and once in the fall. If you notice
there are some areas that resist combing even though others do
not, wait a couple of weeks and try again -- the shed is not
simultaneous, and some areas release fiber later than others.
A classic llama with a healthy, dematted coat
will collect very little (if any) vegetation or debris on the
coat surface (which is entirely guard hair), and very little
beneath except at the base of the neck. Dust can be worked out
with a leaf blower.
At some times of the year, guard hair becomes
dry and tangles easily. A spray-on conditioner will make the
job much easier for you and will make your llama a lot happier.
Glow (available from Koenig's
Wool-n-Fir Farm) puts all the other grooming products on
the market to shame and we highly recommend it whenever some
additional grooming assistance and/or conditioning is desired.
Reclaiming neglected classic coats
If your classic or near-classic type llama's
coat was neglected, or if s/he got into a substance that cannot
be removed from the coat, shear as for a crossbred llama (see
below). After shearing, initially care for him or her as you
would any shorn llama (see below under woolly llamas).
Grooming procedures for the neck and tail
do not change unless severe mats or presence of an adhesive or
unhealthy substance necessitated shearing them as well. "Dreadlocks"
in the tail may take months to work out completely -- be patient,
and try to tease them apart rather than pulling or combing them
out. Try Glide-n-Glow.
For the really, really nasty stuff, a horse mane-and-tail detangler
will often ease the job ("Cowboy Magic" can work extremely
A woolly llama is defined by:
- dense body fleece that does not shed and
will not comb
- dense neck fleece that does not shed and
will not comb
The foundation of grooming for woolly llamas
is shearing. This does not mean that the resulting fleece will
be worth saving -- good fiber has characteristics besides density,
and vegetable debris can ruin even the finest quality fleece.
is a whole 'nuther topic!
Woolly llamas should be shorn yearly for their
health. If you want to produce a usable fleece from your fine-fibered,
single-coated llama, pasture him or her continually in areas
that will minimize or eliminate vegetation and debris in the
fiber (dirt and grease will wash out).
There just isn't space on this website to
adequately describe how to shear a woolly llama safely. It is
usually best to pay someone to give you a shearing lesson if
your llama is tractable enough to touch all over. Otherwise,
you will be paying someone to shear for you anyway.
Selecting a knowledgeable shearer
is important. Sheep shearers
don't always have an adequate knowledge of llama anatomy, which
is particularly problematic because they use equipment that sacrifices
safety for speed (sheep are usually perceived as being more expendable).
Many, many so-called llama shearers will only shear
the easy parts of the llama (usually the top and sides of the
and then give you any number of stories why they will not shear
the entire animal, such as "this is a pack cut" or
"this is a show cut" or "this is how llamas are
shorn." Some will not leave enough fiber on your llama because
it is a lot easier to shear to the skin; some will leave too
much because they don't know any better. Interview the shearer
before he or she comes out! You want someone who will:
- shear to 1/2" (unless the situation
is unusual, such as: the weather is cold and you need to shear
the top off a rescue's fleece to rid the animal of debris or
- shear the entire body, including the neck
and down to the knees and hocks, and trim the tail if necessary
(see photo at above right)
- if the fleece is worth saving, grade and
sort the fiber as it is shorn
- provide shelter; make sure that other llamas
do not exclude the newly-shorn one(s)
- bring a fitted windproof and water repellent
sheet if you must take the llama into the backcounty (shorn
llamas are not a good choice for pack animals, and should generally
- when the fleece has grown back to about 2
inches, your llama will no longer be able to disperse heat safely
when exerting -- shear again before asking the llama to pack
- for the unusual case that must be shorn right
to the skin, protect from sun with a combination of a fitted,
breathable sheet and confinement to shaded areas until at least
a half-inch of fiber has grown back.
It is normal for recently shorn llamas to
take shelter or seem cold for the first one or two nights. It
does take them some time to adjust, and that's no cause for concern
as long as they are protected from rain and wind.
Use only soft brushes (such as a soft body
brush for a horse) on closely shorn areas for the first month
or so -- a slicker brush will jab and irritate the skin. Begin
using a soft slicker (Ever Gentle® by Lambert-Kay) or a pin
brush for surface grooming when the fiber has grown back to about
an inch long.
A blower will help remove dirt and debris
from a short fleece. If the remaining fiber has grease or staining
from sweat, dirt and/or ashes, you can shampoo to give the growing
coat a healthier start and a better chance at resisting mat formation
(we use Pert Plus®). Virtually all llamas accept a warm-water
bath very well; cold water is not as well-tolerated, even in
very hot weather.
Stick to surface grooming once the fleece
has begun to grow back. Deep grooming is painful for woolly llamas,
and does not provide any advantage (unless the llama has a skin
parasite or condition, in which case it should be re-shorn).
Most handspinners prefer that the fiber is not deep-groomed,
and certainly deep grooming allows much more debris to enter
than is removed in the process.
A crossbred llama is the product of a woolly
llama bred to a classic llama, or one of those llamas bred to
a crossbred llama. The resulting llama may look anywhere in between
the two types, but the fleece has characteristics of both:
- dense body fleece that does not really shed
not comb without pain
- shorter neck and leg wool that has guard
shed and will comb
A crossbred llama is shorn
yearly or every two years depending
on fleece regrowth (for information on shearing, see woolly llamas,
above) and the neck and tail are kept brushed and combed (see
classic llamas, above). You should go through the same interview
process with any prospective shearers as you would for woolly
llamas . The most important difference in shearing crossbreds
that the neck fiber is not shorn (see photo at right).
Crossbred llama fleeces may be used for stuffing
and toys, and for making upholstery fabrics, curtains, and wall
hangings. Although outer garments can be made from them,
most people find the result itchy and uncomfortable. It's true
it's easy to pull out the long guard hairs, but there are also
shorter guard hairs -- just as prickly -- and in practice, you'll
never come close to getting them all.
Summary of common grooming malpractices:
-- Pattern shearing is a hold-over from the days of big money
for more wool, and still persists in the show ring (where it
is rewarded by most judges) and in national advertising. Pattern
shearing compromises temperature regulation (see temperature
studies, phase two). The shorn sections are also commonly
shorn to the skin (see below).
-- An unshorn llama is not bigger, nor does it have "more
substance." A ten-pound coat of dead fiber and dirt is not
healthy. It pulls at the skin and makes any contact painful;
it can also restrict leg movement and bind the tail to the rear
legs, trapping feces. It also provides a prime habitat where
certain parasites and difficult-to-resolve skin conditions can
Shearing all types or combing all types -- Dogs are not groomed alike. Cats are not groomed
alike. Human hair styles are not maintained alike. Llamas have
different coat types with genetically determined traits, and
have different grooming practices appropriate to each. Woolly
llamas and crossbred llamas are put through tremendous pain if
their fleeces are combed; classic llamas are dangerously compromised
when their sparse coats are shorn.
Shearing to the skin, leaving too much
fiber, or shearing too short in inclement weather -- Llamas weren't meant to have their skin exposed
to the elements. Llama skin burns easily, and is very sensitive
to insect irritation. Ideal cooling is achieved only when less
than 1" of fiber remains; full weather protection is not
afforded when the fleece is shorter than 2".
Each llama's toenails grows at a different,
genetically-determined pace. Llamas' toenails should be trimmed
on an individual schedule. Many require trimming 3-6 times per
year; some never need trimming; a number need trimming every
month or so. In addition to variable nail growth and individual
wear, the weather conditions will make a difference in your llama's
toenail trimming needs. Llamas can get by with less trimming
if the ground is soft (their nails will sink in, and will also
be softer and more likely to wear down); they need trimming more
often when the ground is hard and the weather is dry. Nearly
all llamas' toenails will need trimming when the ground becomes
hard after spring rains and snowmelt are gone.
Regular toenail trimming is a simple task
when you start with a llama that is cooperative about foot handling
and has properly-trimmed nails. Reclaiming (or minimizing problems
from) neglected, twisted, overgrown toenails is a job for a professional.
Likewise, trimming a recalcitrant or frightened llama is also
a job for a professional -- or two!
Like shearing, correct toenail trimming can
be a fairly detailed proposition, and a full treatise would overload
our alloted website space. We recommend that you find a compentent
llama toenail trimmer in your area and arrange for a one-on-one
lesson. Please understand that your veterinarian is not versed
in llama toenail trimming, and a farrier won't know the first
thing about llama toenails, either.
Most llama owners use and recommend tools
similar to rose pruners for trimming toenails because it is simple
to figure out -- it works like a pair of scissors. They also
tend to draw a lot of blood when trimming nails. With all our
experience, we can only manage to duplicate their blood-letting,
and we've realized that the problem is not the technique, but
the tool itself -- the blades are not placed fully on the nail
before cutting, and even a minor jerk on the llama's part (fairly
common, even among the well-trained) results in the tool cutting
something that wasn't intended.
Although the learning curve is much steeper
for learning to handle them, the safest and best tool for toenail
trimming is a high-quality pair of 10" horse hoof nippers.
They are less likely to cut you or the llama, even if the llama
becomes unexpectedly fractious. But if you can't manage chopsticks
(or give up on stuff like that easily), forget the hoof nippers.
They're not for the patience-challenged or weak of will.
Routine medical procedures
Neutering enhances the quality of life for
any domestic animal. Neutering also makes day-to-day management
choices, options, and procedures much simpler. Finally, neutering
greatly enhances the human/animal relationship and bond. It is
unfortunate that some llamas lose the benefits of neutering for
the sake of human fantasies or egotism.
The straight scoop about breeding is not a pretty picture. Although baby llamas sure
are cute, they are only cute for six months to maybe a year out
of their 20-30 year lifespans. It is important to understand
and accept that there are far too many llamas already out there
that have no hope of finding any home but the slaughterhouse.
Also understand that breeding your favorite llama just once will
result in permanent, negative changes to his or her personality
and to your relationship with him or her. Also realize that raising
a well-trained cria is not a simple matter, and that your screw-ups
will live well into their twenties . . . if they can find a home
that will accept them with their quirks.
Unless you have unusually oustanding llamas
that excel at a given end use, the specialized knowledge to successfully
breed llamas for that end-use, AND the thousands of llamas who
are already out there can't fulfill the demands of that end use,
neutering your llamas is the only responsible course of action
Unfortunately, some people misunderstand what
llamas' sex lives (or lack thereof) are really like, incorrectly
anthropomorphizing that the animals enjoy being intact and yet
not regularly fulfilling their strong natural drives. Quite frankly,
a sexually-frustrated male llama is not an inspiring picture.
Habitual, incessant pacing, senseless fighting with otherwise
peaceful pasturemates, clambering on fencing, and refusal to
be caught except by tricks and bribes are hardly the foundation
behaviors of a rewarding relationship or a comfortable existance.
Female llamas are not exempt -- their unique reproductive cycle
leaves them constantly "in heat," and although less
violent than their male counterparts, they experience similarly
heavy stress and distraction. A true human friend sees these
sexually-oriented behaviors for what they are and relieves nonbreeding
llamas of sexual frustrations and anxieties through neutering.
Castration or gelding is
the standard surgical procedure for neutering a male llama; spaying is surgical
sterilization of a female llama. Castration is much cheaper at
this time, but we highly recommend both procedures for llamas
that will not be breeding, even if they have been bred in the
Llamas' canine teeth have evolved
to become dangerous weapons. Instead of four, llamas now have
six (and sometimes eight) razor-sharp canines, more commonly
called "fighting teeth." It is important to remove
the exposed portions of these teeth for herd
and handler safety. (Most scientists still contend that the first
upper canines are in fact modified incisors, but the evidence
for that viewpoint is pretty slim. The exact classification is
far less important than the severe damage that can be done by
Two of the six fighting teeth in
an adult male llama just before
removal (see arrows).
Intact male llamas' front upper fighting teeth
erupt around the age of 28 months, usually can be blunted by
32 months, and proper cutting is generally possible around age
3 years (but keep checking every month!). A second cutting will
be necessary around 4-6 years. The lower canines usually follow
shortly after the first uppers. In some individuals, the lowers
may become visible through the gum as early as 8 months. Fortunately,
these precocious lower teeth wait until the usual 28-30 months
to resume eruption, so early blunting is not necessary. Once
the front upper fighting teeth begin to erupt, castration will
not alter the timetable of eruption and need for cutting, nor
will castration affect final tooth size.
Females and geldings (unless castrated late)
generally erupt smaller fighting teeth around the age of 3-1/2
to 4 years. Some females' fighting teeth never erupt. Most females
and geldings are less inclined to fight, and so it may be possible
to wait until the teeth are all fully erupted before removal.
In addition, the teeth will only have to be cut once -- this
is another good reason to practice timely castration.
Fighting teeth are sawed off with obstetrical
wire with the llama in a restraint chute or under sedation (sedation
is generally used only if another procedure requiring sedation
is necessary or if no chute is available), and is a job for an
experienced individual. Teeth of females, geldings, and immature
males are cut flush with the gum; teeth of older males and late
geldings should be cut at least 1/8" above the gum line
to minimize exposure of the dentin. When properly performed,
fighting tooth removal does not cut into the sensitive portion
of the tooth and causes the llama no pain other than the pressure
on the tooth during cutting and the indignation of having human
fingers inside his or her mouth.
* * * Important * * *
Fighting teeth may not
be as represented. They may have been cut when the animal was
young and continued to grow, or they may have erupted since they
were last checked -- always check them
Because of the structure of llama molars and
the motion llamas use to chew, sharp points are often formed
on the outer edges of the upper molars and the inner edges of
the lower molars. These sharp points can interfere with general
eating and cud chewing, and thus often result in lowered nutrition
and often weight loss, from subtle to dramatic. Typically these
points first develop between ages 8 and 12 years, but younger
llamas may develop them as well. Older llamas frequently develop
sharp points and other molar anomalies as they lose teeth, the
remaining teeth shift, and grinding patterns change. All of these
problems can be addressed by floating (filing) the teeth.
The most common sign that llamas' molars require
floating is that they begin to routinely pack a wad of cud directly
over the sharp pointed tooth for padding. This wad is easily
visible to the observer. In older llamas, you may instead observe
quidding -- big wads of partially-chewed hay and grass dropped
out of the mouth and on the ground around the barn or pasture
(although sometimes the only sign is grain or pellets dropped
below that llama's feeder). For llamas that quid, x-rays are
recommended because molar abcesses or other dental problems are
An upper-arcade float for horses (or preferrably
ponies or miniature horses) is the tool of choice for most situations.
The head of the float holds a small file, usually reversable
from coarse to smoother. We use the smoother side, preferring
to take off less in more sessions rather than taking off too
much at once.
We have had the best results with the llama
held, tied, or in a chute depending on it's training and comfort
level. Under sedation, the llama's mouth tissues relax and are
easily caught and damaged in the process, so we do not sedate
for this procedure.
Patience is the key!!! It may take quite some
time to get the mouth open and the float inserted, and some more
time to get it properly situated (against the outer edge of the
upper molars and diagonal to them), but once the llama is resigned
to a big thing in it's mouth and allows everything to be set
up, the actually filing goes quickly and easily. File only until
the float begins to move easily over the tooth edges (you'll
hear a change in the sound). If cud-packing is not resolved or
if it recurs in another location (not uncommon), you can repeat
the procedure in a week or two.
If you don't have enough llamas to justify
buying the floats and learning the techniques, virtually any
large animal veterinarian has the skills and tools (although
some may cling to outdated information that llamas "don't
Yet another legacy of our mixed-breed (llama-alpaca)
North American gene pool is a significant segment of the llama
population has inherited the constantly-growing incisors of the
alpaca (and vicuna). Some llamas also have malconfomed jaws that
prevent their incisors from properly contacting the bite plate
In both cases, the incisors should be trimmed.
Sedation is required, and thus a veterinarian is usually called
to do the job. A small, hand-held Dremel® tool with a miniature
circular-saw type blade works very well for scoring the teeth.
The cut can be finished with the Dremel® if very little is
being removed and the teeth are thin; otherwise obstetrical wire
is placed in the groove made by the Dremel® and is used to
finish the job.
* * * Important * * *
Do not confuse receeding
gums in older llamas for too-long incisors! If the tops or very
upper inside edges of the incisors are contacting the front edge
of the bite plate and the top and bottom molars are meeting,
it does not matter how long the incisors appear to you. Trimming
incisors on these animals can have devestatingly negative effects
on their ability to eat, and you can't reverse the procedure
once it's been done.
Monitoring for abcesses
Llamas are prone to lower molar abcesses.
No one is really sure why, although there is reason to believe
that females bred young may be prone, and that there is a genetic
predisposition to peridontal disease. Both groups typically develop
abcesses at a fairly early age -- between ages four and eight.
However, other llamas with no particular risk factors may also
develop abcesses, and at any age -- from under age two (in the
deciduous teeth) and throughout their long lives (until they
run out of teeth to abcess).
Small abcesses can only be detected with an
x-ray. Most people do not schedule periodic dental x-rays for
their llamas, but for llamas at risk, this is a good practice.
Llamas with more advanced molar abcesses may be reluctant to
drink cold water, may quid (drop partially-chewed grain or hay
out of their mouths), or may avoid eating grains or pellets entirely.
Many times you will be able to feel a slight swelling of the
lower jaw bone around the tooth; you may also see the skin below
one jawbone droop. In acute cases, the entire side of the face
may swell dramatically -- feel for a hard, enlarged area on the
jawbone to distinguish from soft tissue abcesses, insect bites,
and other causes.
An x-ray will be needed for diagnosis. Although
small abcesses can be put in remission with long-term antibiotics,
most will require surgical treatment. If the abcess is not too
advanced (which is unlikely if you've already seen any external
symptoms), the llama equivalent of a root canal may be possible.
Otherwise, extraction will be the recommended treatment. Llamas'
molars continue to erupt slowly over their lifetime to compensate
for the extreme wear from grinding their abrasive foods (grass
and hay contain a lot of silicates), so in an older llama (18-20
years and older), it is more often possible to remove an abcessed
tooth under sedation because the roots are shallower. In young
and middle-aged llamas, however, the abcessed tooth must be punched
up from below, which requires careful surgical preparation and
general anesthesia -- not cheap, but the results tend to be excellent.
The best way to learn how and where to give
injections is with the help of your veterinarian -- a demonstration
is worth a thousand words, particularly if the words aren't read
Subcutaneous injections (also "sub-Q"
or "SQ") are generally given into one of three sites
in front of the shoulder blade. Don't try this without a demonstration
-- there are critical nerves and blood vessels that you could
damage! Injectable dewormers are usually given SQ, as is Albon
Intermuscular injections (also "IM")
may be given into the triceps and the semimembranoses. Again,
don't try this without a demonstration -- you could lame your
llama! Some veterinarians are comfortable administering injections
IM into the lower muscling of the neck; others say to NEVER do
such a thing. A few use the lumbar muscles because of their ready
accessability; as users of working llamas, we absolutely do not
allow use of this site unless the animal in question is a difficult-to-restrain
rescue with no safe alternatives. In any case, learn to use all
the available sites your veterinarian will teach you. If you
will be giving injectable medications for several days, it is
important to rotate injection sites.
Absorption rates are different for SQ and
IM, and some substances behave differently when given by different
routes. If your vet prescribes one route, consult with him or
her before changing to a different one.
Most well-trained llamas will accept injections
while tied or cross-tied. Putting a llama in a restraint chute
for an injection may not be wise, depending on the chute design
-- the most common problems are injury to the handler's hands,
and increased risk of damage to the llama from bent and/or broken
needles. It is worth mentioning that we have never needed a restraint
chute for administering injections despite the large number of
rescues and rehabs we have dealt with over the years.
20 gauge, 3/4" needles work best for
IM injections in llamas. 20x1" are good for SQ injections,
can be used for IMs on muscular adults in a pinch, and also work
well for jugular blood draws on the thicker-skinned males and
geldings. If you find yourself dealing with a lot of crias, stock
some 22x1/2" needles as well.
Techniques for administering oral
medications to llamas
If your llama is not a fussy eater, liquids
can be mixed into crushed or rolled grains (not pellets). Do
watch to make sure your llama doesn't dribble the medicated grain
on the ground. Not only will he or she not get all of the meds,
but some substances are toxic to other animals, and so any spills
will need to be cleaned up.
If your llama can't or won't eat grain, or
just won't touch anything that's been adulterated, a 12ml infusion
syringe (ask your vet for a few) will usually do the trick --
unless the liquid in question is too stiff or thick to draw into
Measure out the dose in another syringe first
(there are no marks on the infusion syringes). Standing on the
llama's right side (if you are right-handed), tuck the curved
tip into the corner of the llama's mouth so that the tip is facing
the llama's throat. Slightly (not too much!) elevate the llama's
head so that the liquid will not cascade out onto the ground
and push the plunger. Wait until the llama has swallowed before
letting go. A spitter may need to have his or her mouth held
shut for awhile afterwards.
Powders and pills
Powders can also be mixed into crushed or
rolled grains (not pellets). The trick is to get all of the powder
to stick to the grain and not be left at the bottom of the bowl.
A tablespoon of oil works well (A, D, & E fortified wheat
germ oil may be a desirable addition to some llamas' diets).
For llamas that like apples, a small spritz of apple juice will
provide the necessary moisture. Others may not like apples, but
are suckers for watered-down maple syrup. Grated carrots can
also do the trick for those llamas who like them.
Pills can be ground into a powder with a mortar
and pestle, or with a hand-operated pill powdering device. If
you have the option, get capsules instead of pills and just open
the caps as needed.
Then there are the llamas who won't touch
grain that's been tampered with (as well as those llamas who
should not or cannot have grain). Powders can be mixed in just
enough syrup or jam (which one depends on the properties of the
powder) to make a thin paste that is just barely runny, spooned
into a spent ivermectin tube, and administered like a paste dewormer.
(To get the ivermectin plunger to slide more easily in the tube,
use a bit of oil.) Although this is sometimes a tedious procedure,
if you chose a syrup or jam that is to the llama's liking, you'll
get a wonderful payoff later: a llama that is very easy to deworm.
(Logan was keen on blueberry and maple syrups and loganberry
jam, but did not like strawberry or blackberry -- "Too sweet,"
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