"You've got to like ranching to
be in it .... It's a pretty rough game." - Art Lavington
Welcome to the West Chilcotin - A region steeped in a history
of ranching, guiding/outfitting, and trapping. Extending from
Chilko Lake in the east to Heckman Pass in the West and north
of the Blackwater, it's a huge area with few roads.
The only way to cover ground in the Chilcotin, winter or
summer, was on horseback or by team. Living in the Chilcotin
meant overcoming obstacles, day in and day out, just to survive.
Sir Alexander Mackenzie was the first white man to cross
the Rocky Mountains and view the Pacific Ocean from a North
American shore twelve years before the more famous Lewis and
Clark expedition. Mackenzie set out from Lake Athabaska in
1793 in search of an overland passage to the Pacific and arrived
at his destination 72 days and 1250 miles later, the latter
270 miles following ancient Native trade routes called grease
trails for the eulachon (a small fish that was rendered for
its fat) that were carried over them from the coast to the
interior of BC.
This trail left from the mouth of the Blackwater River west
of Quesnel, followed the upper Blackwater past Eliguk Lake,
over the Rainbow Mountains and through what is now Tweedsmuir
Park to Bella Coola and was designated as a Heritage Trail
in 1987. Aside from being used by the Natives in the past
and as a walking trail now, it has never been developed as
a route into the Chilcotin. Instead, as you'll note below,
the main route into this area developed from the Fraser River,
through Riske Creek, Alexis Creek, Tatla Lake, then Anahim
It's thought that the first occupiers of land west of the
Fraser were the Shushwap Tribe which was nearly wiped out
by smallpox in 1862. The Chilcotin or Tsilhqot'in people moved
in to take their place from their traditional territory in
the west (Alexis Creek to Ulkatcho). The Chilcotin's language
is a sister language of the Navajo in the U.S. and is of complicated
structure with each verb carrying the subject and object.
There are still many of the Elders and some younger people
that speak the language, although some mix a pidgin English
and Tsilhgot'in in conversation.
While the tribes and the white people had their problems,
the Chilcotin Indian Wars being most notable, most of the
Chiefs of the Chilcotin bands were very friendly and cooperative
with the white settlers, particularly when treated with equality
and respect. As a result, many natives went to work with settlers
as ranch hands, cowboys, packers and guides. Some started
their own freight companies using teams and wagons, or homesteaded
their own ranches, while their wives made and sold moccasins
and gloves made from tanned deer and caribou hides, and robes
made from the fur of marmots.
Probably many people have heard of Tom Hance who put up a
trading post and post office at what became known as what
else... but Hanceville? His wife Nellie, was the first white
woman to come into the Chilcotin and once had a long trip
to get to Hanceville in 1887 on horseback. She rode the entire
three hundred miles sidesaddle. Tom's place and later Lee's
became a jumping off point for all points west and adventuresome
men gradually spread through the country, settling their homestead
and acquiring ranching stock. While many of their wives were
brought from England, the States, or Victoria, many married
lasses from one of the Chilcotin tribes and more than one
family, especially in the Anahim area, has a long history
of intermingled families.
Eventually a road traveled by horseback, team, or on foot
developed from ranch to ranch from the Fraser River to Tatla
Lake, and finally on to Anahim Lake. These ranches were often
used as stopping points and overnighters, where the host welcomed
a weary traveler, providing a hot meal and a warm barn. In
exchange, the traveler was expected to provide news or gossip
of the outside.
Stan Dowling grew up in Vancouver but moved to the West Chilcotin
in 1932, farming for a while in Bella Coola, then working
on Andy Christensen's Clesspocket Ranch when he decided he
was going to start a store. He began trucking freight from
Vancouver to Anahim Lake with the only truck in the Anahim
area over the wagon road from Williams Lake. From Tatla Lake
west, the road had only ever been used with team and wagon
or pack horse, so Stan actually built a road by hand over
the years without Government help, that would support a vehicle.
His longest, hardest, and as he describes, "Most miserable
trip." in March, 1937 took nine days from Williams Lake
to Anahim Lake through howling wind, pelting snow, and huge
snow drifts. He only made it with the help of several teamsters,
other ranchers and friends like Andy Holte and Pan Phillips
that rode out from Anahim Lake and assisted Stan in bringing
his goods in from Tatla Lake in relay.
From Anahim Lake there was a horse and freight trail to the
Bella Coola Valley through the precipice, but no proper road.
There was no way in or out of the Valley with a vehicle and
people down in the valley petitioned the Government for years
for financial help to build a road. Since the road would have
to go over the Coast Mountain Range, the Government said it
was impossible to buid and refused to help. So the people
of the West Chilcotin and Bella Coola Valley took matters
into their own hands.
In 1951 Thomas Squinas, an extraordinary woodsman and cowboy,
set out on horseback to find the best possible route for a
road to be built overland from Anahim Lake to Bella Coola,
through the rugged mountains of the Coast Range. Two years,
$250, a lot of dynamite, donated time and equipment, and back
breaking work later, the cat skinner from Bella Coola touched
the blade of his bulldozer to that of the cat skinner that
had worked his way down the hill from Anahim Lake. The wife
of the cat driver that had been pushing road from the top
filmed that historic moment on September 26, 1953 when Bella
Coola was finally married by road to the rest of Canada, and
so it was designated the Freedom Highway. Although it really
couldn't be called a highway at the time, but more like two
ruts as it took over 9 hours to drive the 100 miles from Bella
Coola to Anahim Lake, but it was enough to convince the Government
to take over the maintenance and improvements of the road
in 1955. With grades up to 18%, the 'Hill' as it is called,
is the steepest highway in Canada, if not North America, and
is a 'must do' drive.
In 1938, Stan Dowling bought the Hudson's Bay property in
Anahim Lake and moved his store from up on Capoose Flats and
started the first Anahim Lake Post Office. Thus began, 'Downtown'
Anahim. Stan Dowling, with the help of local ranchers, also
started the first Anahim Lake Stampede 70 years ago in 1938.
It's still famous today and is usually held about the first
or second week of every July. The store was later taken over
and run by D'Arcy Christensen for years, who had the slogan,
"If we don't have it, you don't need it." He was
also the local fur buyer and only recently retired from the
store and moved to Williams Lake in 2001.
Ranching is still one of the main industries of the Chilcotin,
but tourism has also become a mainstay of the area in the
past 50 years and in some cases, the two have gone hand in
hand with some working ranches offering vacation adventures,
pack trips and trail rides. Trapping has gradually given away
to eco tours, guiding, and trail riding. Many lakes in the
West Chilcotin were popular fishing and hunting destinations,
especially for Americans, and gradually little cabins and
tent camps were replaced by resorts and lodges. Logging too
has moved in but cooperation between resource users and Native
Bands have forced restrictions on logging in the country and
operaters, Natives and logging companies have formed some
of the strongest cooperative units in Canada. These units,
or Round Tables', are now being used as models in many delicate
regions throughout North America.