When it comes to growing blueberries at home, highbrush types are the most commonly grown. Getting your highbrush blueberry shrubs, which thrive on acid soil, off to a good start begins at least one year before planting. In later years, your feeding routine for established highbrush blueberries should largely focus on maintaining acidity and adding nitrogen. Nitrogen is crucial for branch development to support the largest, juiciest fruits possible, while keeping the acidity low helps blueberry bushes draw in the nutrients and moisture they need.
Feed new blueberry bushes with liquid fish emulsion immediately after planting and every week for the first month. Dilute the fish emulsion at the concentrations recommended on the package, and use the amount of liquid per plant recommended on the package for use with small or new fruit shrubs.
Test the soil near your blueberry bushes in late winter or early spring each year, starting the year after planting highbrush blueberries. Purchase a simple soil test kit from a garden center or send it to be analyzed by a professional service. For blueberries, the primary objective is to determine current pH levels and major nutrient deficiencies.
Rake any existing mulch away from each blueberry bush before applying new fertilizer in early spring.
Scatter 1/4 cup of soybean meal or fish meal in a circle around the base of each blueberry bush in the first year or two, when the bush is still small. These amendments are rich in nitrogen. As the bush grows bigger, or if your soil test turns up an unusual deficiency of nitrogen, apply up to 2 cups of either fish meal or soybean meal.
Water the blueberry patch thoroughly so that the nitrogen from the fertilizer begins to leech into the soil.
Set a 2- to 3-inch layer of rotted oak leaves, pine needles or peat moss around the base of each shrub. Any of these materials maintain acidity while enriching the soil.
Lightly work the acidifying layer into the soil.
Rake the existing mulch back into place and replenish for extra moisture retention and acidity. Additional pine needles, shredded oak leaves, peat moss or bark shavings from evergreen trees are all good choices when mulching blueberries.
Things You Will Need
- Liquid fish emulsion
- Watering can or sprayer
- Soil test kit
- Soybean meal or fish meal
- Measuring cup
- Garden hose or drip irrigation system
- Peat moss, shredded oak leaves or pine needles
- One year before planting highbrush blueberries, have your soil analyzed for its pH level and for soil deficiencies. Blueberries require acidic soil ranging from 4.0 to 5.5, so chances are you'll need to add ground sulfur, peat moss or another acidifying agent when preparing the new blueberry patch. A 50-50 mixture of original soil and new compost, as well as amendments to correct pH level and major nutrient deficiencies, is ideal.
- Highbrush blueberries typically grow at least 6 feet tall. With more than 100 varieties available, you can find one that best suits your climate. In central and northern California, for example, popular varieties include "Misty," "Toro" and "Sunshine Blue."
- Powdered sulfur is commonly used to lower pH levels, but is best used when preparing the bed a year prior to planting blueberry bushes, rather than as an amendment once the bushes are planted. Sulfur can harm the soil fungi that aid blueberry root growth. When preparing a new blueberry patch, use about 1 pound of ground sulfur per 100 square feet for every point you need to lower the pH level.
- University of California: Selecting Fruit, Nut and Berry Crops for San Mateo and San Francisco Gardens
- University of California: Fertilization of Blueberries
- Rodale's Ultimate Encyclopedia or Organic Gardening; Fern Marshall Bradley, et al
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