Fes & Zerhoun, Morocco
Of all of the countries of North Africa, none boasts as many great classical Islamic cities as Morocco: Tangier, Rabat and splendid Marrakesh, just to name a few. These cities are home to ancient medinas and magnificent mosques. But the oldest of all are Fes and Zerhoun, the first Islamic cities in Morocco, and home to the region’s first Muslim monarchy. These two cities, only 25 miles apart, are home to two inextricably linked shrines: the Tomb of Moulay Idris I in Zerhoun, the first king of Morocco, and the Tomb of Moulay Idris II in Fes, his son. While there are many other similar shrines and tombs in North Africa, that of Moulay Idris I is particularly venerated as he was the great-grandson of the Prophet Mohammed. The Tomb of Moulay Idris II is part of the Medina of Fes UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In the middle of the 8th century, the Umayyad dynasty of Damascus, which had hitherto ruled the entire Islamic world, was overthrown by the Abbasids of Baghdad. While most of the Umayyad’s were killed, a few escaped to the far western reaches of the empire. One of these, Moulay Idris, fled to Morocco in 787 AD, where he established his own autonomous kingdom beyond the reach of Baghdad. After a brief sojourn in Tangiers, Moulay Idris traveled south and founded the city of Zerhoun, which served for a short while as capital of his kingdom. He spent most of his few remaining years organizing his new realm and converting the native Berber population to Islam. His efforts were cut short in 791 when he was poisoned by Abbasid assassins.
For the next few years the nascent Islamic realm in Morocco continued on directionless, until Moulay Idris’ son grew old enough to take over and continue his father’s work. Moulay Idris II proved more effective than his father. He founded a new capital city at Fes, and established his father’s tomb in Zerhoun as a major shrine. Over the next twenty years, he transformed Morocco from a loose federation of Berber tribes into a powerful Islamic state. By the time of his death, the entire northwest corner of Africa was unified and the bulk of its population converted.
After the founding of Fes, Zerhoun became less politically and commercially prominent. However, its mosque and the Tomb of Moulay Idris I became the kingdom’s most popular place to visit. Zerhoun’s convenient location between Fes and Rabat made it easily accessible, and amazingly the city did not fall into decline after the capital was moved. Rather than become a backwater, Zerhoun attracted many of Morocco’s wealthy families to build homes here. To this day Zerhoun remains one of Morocco’s most beautiful towns.
Nevertheless Fes rapidly overshadowed Zerhoun, becoming both Morocco’s political and religious center. Its great medina boasts some of the oldest and largest mosques in Africa. During the 12th and 13th centuries Fes lost its status as capital to Marrakesh for about a hundred years or so. It was restored to its former rank under in 1250, who had Fes rebuilt and expanded. It remained Morocco’s capital for another three centuries. Fes’ spiritual importance increased starting in the 14th century when it was discovered that Moulay Idris II was buried in Fes and not in Zerhoun, as had been previously thought. Because of their mutual importance and proximity, today the cities of Fes and Zerhoun are effectively a double-pilgrimage site, visited by tens of thousands of Moroccans every year.
The city of Zerhoun is one of the most beautiful places in Africa. Unlike many other Islamic destinations in West Africa, which conjure up visions of vast deserts, towering sand dunes and the occasional oasis, Zerhoun dominates a hilltop overlooking a lush green plain. Its bright white and sandstone buildings stand out starkly against the verdant landscape. The sizeable Masjid Moulay Idris I is the largest in the city, and its great minaret, dominates the skyline. The inner courtyard is a spectacular work in Moroccan tile. The tomb of Moulay Idris I lies beneath a green-tiled pyramidic roof.
Fes is much more typical of other large Moroccan cities: sprawling and chaotic. However, its setting in the midst of a thick belt of green forest and the massive wall of its great medina makes the city look as if it belongs in medieval France or Germany. Unlike its counterpart in Zerhoun, the Zaouia Moulay Idris II is a relatively modest affair which is more or less dwarfed by the neighboring Masjid Kairaouine. Its soaring minaret is actually rivaled by others throughout the city. Moulay Idris II is interred within.
The Masjid Moulay Idris I is located in a large compound towards the top of a very crowded hill in old Zerhoun, approximately 30 miles west of Fes and 75 miles east of Rabat. The Zaouia Moulay Idriss II is almost lost in a thick cluster of buildings towards the city center of Fes, approximately 105 miles east of Rabat. Both mosques are open to Muslims and closed to non-Muslims. There is no cost of admission at either site. Web: www.visitmorocco.com (official tourism website of Morocco)
While the smaller city of Zerhoun is all about Moulay Idris I, Fes is packed with sites of Muslim interest. Foremost among them is the Madrassa Kairouine, founded by refugees from Tunisia in memory of the mosque there. It is considered, by some standards, to be the oldest continually active university in the world. Also in Fes is the 14th century Dar Al-Magana Palace, the oldest palace in North Africa.