Site and Soil
The first priority
in developing a successful nut orchard is to determine that the
climate, site and soil are suitable for the crop you are trying
should be within the climatic zones suggested for the tree, preferably
protected from late spring frosts.
The site should
be gently sloping, well-drained and without low spots or frost pockets.
While hillsides may be attractive planting sites for timber trees,
steep slopes are not easy to maintain for nut harvesting purposes.
If tile drainage is necessary, make sure that an appropriate outlet
is available to you. Plan where the trees will go and put in the
tiles between the rows of permanent trees. This will prevent the
tree roots from getting into the tiles and blocking the drains.
The soil should
be a loamy sand or clay. Check with you agricultural experiment
station for information on your soil type and do a soil test to
find out what nutrients are needed. Plough in your soil needs, particularly
potassium before you plant, as this nutrient is very difficult to
incorporate after the trees are planted. Plant a cover crop the
year before, if possible, to add organic matter and to enrich the
soil. Plough down the cover in the spring before planting and disk
and harrow, pick rocks etc. in preparation for planting.
At this point
you need to decide whether you will plant grafted, seedling or a
combination of grafted and seedling trees. This can determine spacing
and the proper placement of pollinators.
Decide on the
spacing of your trees and measure, then mark out the planting sites
being sure that no rows are too close to field tiles. This can vary
according to the species being planted and the overall planting
goals. The day before planting dig your holes by hand or with a
20 inch auger. Do not dig the holes deeper than the deepest roots.
This will prevent sink holes later caused by the settling of the
soil which takes the tree down with it. This is a particular problem
when using an auger. Mark the sites with coloured ribbon. This will
be a guide to make sure that the proper tree is in the site and
that the planting plan is being followed. If your soil is lacking
in organic matter, mix the planting soil with and equal volume of
peat moss and a handful of potassium (0-20-0) or bonemeal. Well
rotted compost may be used on the surface but not mixed fertilizers
or manures as these can burn roots and cause harm.
soon as your nursery stock arrives, it is important to make sure
the tree roots are kept moist by spraying with water and keeping
them in a plastic bag to keep the wind off and to prevent drying.
If they can't be planted right away, heel them in on the north side
of a shelter or keep them covered with tarps and wet straw or peat
moss in a frost proof but cool building. The roots must be protected
from drying winds, bright sun and below freezing temperatures at
all times while they are out of the ground.
trees in large black plastic bags to the planting sites in a covered
truck or wagon, making sure the roots are always protected. Centre
the tree and be sure it is aligned with others in the row before
backfilling the soil. Do not prune the tree roots or bend them around
to fit the hole, instead dig the hole bigger to accommodate the
tree as needed. Make sure that you spread the roots as you plant
to provide the tree with plenty of soil contact. Check that the
root collar is even with the soil surface or slightly below. Tamp
the soil around the roots gently with your feet to remove large
air pockets as you refill the hole. Water the tree liberally after
Put a mulch
of wood chips around the tree about 5 cm (2 in.) thick and out about
2 m (6 ft.). This is very important for the first 3-5 years as it
will keep weeds down and prevent them from hampering tree root development
that find their way through the mulch can be pulled or sprayed with
Roundup herbicide. Be careful not to contact any part of the tree
Check for insect damage, especially caterpillars, aphids or leafhoppers
and spray accordingly. The trees are susceptible to insect damage
beginning in June, particularly in the first year as they have been
weakened by transplanting.
through the first growing, or better yet set up an irrigation system
to water the trees as needed. A drip system will do when the trees
are small, followed by low sprinklers as the trees grow larger.
This is particularly important in the light sandy soils of the "tobacco
belt" in Ontario.
Soon after planting
the trees, a ground cover may be established. Dwarf perennial ryegrass
is ideal for this purpose as it is slow growing, less competitive
with the trees and requires fewer mowings during the growing season.
It is available through most farm supply outlets.
After the first
year, 15-15-15 fertilizer can be added annually in early May. Apply
to the mulch and avoid contact with the tree trunk. A handful is
all that is needed in the first year, but you may need to provide
your ground cover with an annual application to help it fill in.
pruning may be necessary in the spring of the second year, but this
should be confined to pinching back the undesired growth to favour
the upward growth of the main trunk or stem.