The procedure of Layout of Fabric
The pattern guide sheet will probably have several layout illustrations to study. These are based on patternsize, fabric width, and type of fabric (napped, one-way design, etc.).
It is often helpful to study and “play with” various layout situations. Sometimes a different layout will enable you to better utilize your fabric. However, do not depart from the suggested layout unless you fully understand layout design and realize that many fabrics need a specific (with nap) layout due to color shading or fabric design.
After deciding on a layout view for the pattern size and fabric width, circle it so it is easy to see figure 3 then, look carefully at the layout to find:
- if the fabric is folded, is it lengthwise or crosswise or a combination of the two.(Figure 4)
- which pattern pieces are to be used.
- which layout view is for special fabrics such as nap, one-way designs, or color shading (all pattern pieces MUST be turned in the same direction). (Figure 5)
- if the fabric is cut on single or double thickness. (Figure 5)
- All napped and knit fabrics require that pattern pieces be laid with their "tops" in the same direction (one-way or with nap layout).
- Some fabrics are printed with one-way designs and need a "nap" layout.
- Check large designs since they may need matching, especially at center seams.
- Plaids and stripes require matching (at the seamline, not the cutting line) in both the lengthwise and crosswise directions, if possible.
- Uneven stripes and plaids require a oneway or “with nap” layout.