Before I traveled in Russia in 2004, the term “Venice of the North” meant nothing to me. Color me dense.
A great deal of St. Petersburg’s charm derives from being built around a network of canals and rivers, and the most incredible bridges you can imagine, bringing pedestrian and vehicle traffic across those canals. In addition to being the main lifeblood of the city, the waterways help define the unique atmosphere by creating eerie mists which rise from the frozen water in the winter and glimmering mirror facades in the summer.
ONE OF EUROPE’S MOST ROMANTIC CITIES
Saint Petersburg, Russia, is one of the most romantic cities in Europe, with an ambiance which maximizes the rich cultural background and history of Russia. If you read or write historical fiction, Russia and St. Petersburg are both vast sources of inspiration. In 1990, the entire central portion of the city of St. Petersburg and a related groups of monuments were deemed the first Russian site to be inscribed in the UNESCO list of world heritage sites.
Google Borderline map of Russia showing geographical relationship to other Countries ▼
Founded in 1703 by Tsar Peter the Great, it served as the capital of Russia from 1703 to 1728 and again from 1732 to 1918. In 1914, the name was changed to Petrograd. In 1924, again it was changed, this time to Leningrad. In 1991, the city’s official name went back to Saint Petersburg.
Map: http://canacopegdl.com - Diwecke International Atlas
VENICE OF THE NORTH
Although founded by Peter the Great, this city began as the fortress Nyenskans, built in 1611 by Swedish colonists. A small town named Nyen grew up around the fortress. In 1703 the Tsar began to build a new city to be the capital of his empire and a seaport in order to trade with Europe. The physical construction was done by conscripted peasants from all over Russia and Swedish prisoners of war from the from the Great Northern War.
The first buildings were situated on ten islands to the north side of the Neva in the river delta. As the city grew, the center moved south of the river. Today St. Petersburg spreads over more than forty islands, with 342 public bridges cataloged, all sizes, types, and designs. It’s impossible to walk more than a few hundred meters without crossing a bridge.
Tourist map of the city
Peter the Great created St. Petersburg to be as much like a European city as possible. While the older parts have the definite “feel” of a European city, the buildings themselves take on some of the special expansive qualities typical of Russian architecture. Nothing there is ancient by European standards. Port of St. Petersburg on Neva River
Being built on the marshlands of the delta, there are at least seven rivers, four major canals, and other smaller canals running through the city (300 kilometers) and 800 bridges of all sizes to cross them.
The climate in St. Petersburg is described as mild, but that depends on what you’re used to. Winters, with freezing winds and snow, average around 9ºF to 10ºF (-13ºC to -12ºC), and during those months the Neva River is frozen solid. You can see in the photo that it is a big river.
The Tsar expected residents of the city move around during the summer months by boat on the canals. In the winter, when the canals are frozen, the people were to use them with sleds. There were few, if any, bridges.
Good luck with that! After Peter’s death, the residents started building bridges. The first permanent bridge of bricks and stone across the main branch of the Neva was constructed in 1850.
Church on the Savior on Spilled Blood*
on the Gribojedov (Griboedov) Canal The Winter Canal The Bolshaya River The Bridge of Four Lions
There is so much to see there, but don’t expect any of it to be ancient – the city itself isn’t that old -- and there are many modern marvels to see as well.
The Catherine Palace is named after Catherine I, the wife of Peter the Great, who ruled Russia for two years after her husband's death. Originally a modest two-story building commissioned by Peter for Catherine in 1717, the Catherine Palace owes its awesome grandeur to their daughter, Empress Elizabeth, who chose Tsarskoe Selo as her chief summer residence. ▼
Entrance to The Catherine Palace
Statues and Sculptures abound in the city and there will be one any place you choose to go. Many are serious monumental dedications to heroes of history and mythology and famous people. Others, contemporary, are more whimsical.
The Bronze Horseman is one of the must-see’s. The statue stands in Senate Square and is the most popular. Dedicated the Peter the Great, founder of the city, it faces the Neva River by the Admiralty, and St. Isaac’s Cathedral.
Although I didn’t see these when I was in St. Petersburg – they weren’t there yet -- they are my favorites. First, a moment to photographers, and second, the bronze angel in in Izlailovo Park. Called the “Petersburg Angel” , the sculpture appeared on the back of park bench on October 12, 2012. In his rumpled coat, he is hidden under the umbrella and carefully reads his wise book. The author of the bronze sculpture is the famous St. Petersburg artist Roman Shustrov.
CHURCHES AND CATHEDRALS
These structures are the highlights of St. Petersburg and deserve their own article. That will come next week.
EVERY DAY LIFE IN RUSSIA
As a tourist, it’s often hard to get a true sense of the way people live in a country. I went on a tour, so I went where they took me and I saw what they showed me. Still, we did get out on our own, and we talked to average citizens, not just in St. Petersburg but in Moscow and all along the Volga.
Now remember, this was more than ten years ago. Like everywhere else, people have changed, and the city has grown more than half a million inhabitants. However, at the time, we found many Russians spoke English, and I found them very friendly and helpful.
I also noticed most of the older Russians can assume at will a disinterested blank expression, and they don’t “step outside the box” much. There were several instances when individuals could have been helpful by giving information or doing something, but because it was not in their job description (and would have infringed on someone else’s responsibility), they only did/said what they were required to do/say. For example, on the cruise ship I asked at the excursions signup desk what time the gift shop opened. The answer I got was "You will have to ask the gift shop employees." In fact, for the rest of the trip the gift shop opened and closed at exactly the same time every day. I'm 99.9% sure to lady at the excursion desk knew the answer.
You have to wonder where that attitude comes from, and if it will change over time. However, there were other instances of people going out of their way, and taking a risk, to be helpful.
The Parquet floors are a highlight of Russian craftsmanship, no matter where you go. They are incredible.
We found no shortage of food, and the grocery stores and marketplaces seemed not only well stocked, had everything available.
There was a police presence when I was there, but we didn't see anything like that shown in the photos below. It felt very safe in 2004.
I love the history and the architecture, but I also love meeting the people and finding out what life is like living in different countries. And one of the best parts of traveling is coming home with a new appreciation for my own country and culture, and grateful for living where I live.□