Question about Refrigerators
I hear a clicking sound the first click is i hear the compressor and the second click is the compressor shake then second click the compressor is off
Its normal for it to start and stop.
Check the mountings are tight
Some of this might help...
Check your power cord and power supply, check the plug is clean and free from corrosion or dirt.
Plug another appliance into the same socket to check there is power at the socket.
Note: Electricity can cause serious injury even Death.
Isolate your power supply from the mains switchboard.
Switch off and Unplug your appliance from the wall socket before attempting any repairs.
If its still under warranty, take it back to the store or manufacturer for replacement.
Call a serviceman to test the appliance for you,
If not you could...
Check your fuse in the device, you will have to dismantle the appliance. Some of them have a fuse to protect the motor.
Get your Multimeter and do some tests...
Test the flexible cord connections
Electrical tests included, visual inspection, Earth continuity, Polarity and Insulation resistance.
Examining cord for Damage
Disconnect flexible cord from power supply.
Check cord along the whole length for obvious damage
1: Visual Inspection
A visual test is necessary before using test instruments to ensure that all specific safety requirements are meet.
Check the general condition and safety of the cord, plug, cord anchorage, terminations and of the appliance itself.
2: Earth Continuity.
The earthing system of an electrical installation must be installed in a manner that will allow circuit protection devices to operate if there is a fault between live parts (other than Neutral) and the mass of earth.
What to check: For class (one) 1 protectively earthed appliances only, test for very low resistance between exposed appliance metalwork and the earth pin of the plug. this resistance should be as low as possible and must not exceed 1 ohm. Note: the Exposed metal parts of a class 2 double-insulated appliance must not be earthed.
A Multimeter (Digital or analogue) Set on a ohm scale or an insulation tester that also has a continuity scale.
A set of leads.
Why is this test necessary:
An incorrect connection of phase and neutral conductors to fittings and appliances is extremely dangerous and has been the cause, either directly or indirectly of many shocks and fatalities.
What to check:
Polarity tests are carried out to ensure that every single-pole switch operates in the active conductor or the circuit in which it is connected.
A Multimeter (Digital or analogue) Set on the resistance scale when the SUPPLY is NOT connected.
or a voltage indicator set on a suitable voltage rating when the supply is not connected.
4: Insulation Resistance
Why this test is necessary:
All live conductors (including Neutrals) and live parts must be insulated to prevent - Electric shock hazards from inadvertent contact.
- Fire hazards and equipment damage from short circuits.
What to check:
Insulation resistance tests must be made between:
- Active conductors of a poly-phase circuit
- Active and Neutral
- Active and Earth
- Neutral and Earth
The insulation resistance between appropriate components shall be not less than 1 mega-ohm minimum
An insulation resistance tester which maintains an output of 500 volts when loaded with a 1 mega-ohm resistance.
A set of leads.
Different countries adhere to spicific Electrical (safety) Regulations and standards
This information is only intended to enlighten the novice, guide and remind someone already in the field of electrical installations.
DO NOT attempt any electrical repairs unless you have the appropriate background or training.
Posted on Feb 10, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: refridge hums then you hear
it sounds like
Posted on Jul 02, 2008
This usually indicates that the compressor is working too hard and drawing too much current. The click that you hear is a safety shut-off. Possible causes of this are numerous and usually require having a professional come in to fix the issue, it can range anywhere from a faulty compressor to a bad start relay.
There is in most cases a temporary fix, it is called a hard start relay/capacitor. It is usually available from an appliance parts retailer for around $15 to $20. Installation instructions are included, just be sure to unplug your refrigerator first and make sure that someone following you can repair from where you left off. This relay assembly can normally get you up and running but it should not be used as a permanent fix. This will not correct for a refrigerant leak in the system.
Check your refrigerator owners manual before making any repairs or modifications to your refrigerator, there may be an extended warranty on the sealed system and compressor.
Posted on Aug 01, 2008
2 things may cause this condition.
1. The relay and overload which starts the compressor has failed.
This is an easy fix.
2. The compressor has failed.
The compressor can be replaced and is worth doing if the unit is in good shape.
Posted on Jan 15, 2010
remove the rtc overload off the compressor and shake it,if it rattles thats your culprit,also if when its running and the compressor is quite warm to the touch,its only running on the start windings and isnt actually running right and will overheat and ruin the compressor,replace the rtc its cheaper than a new compressor
Posted on Feb 03, 2010
Hi ****, Based on the discription you've provided it sounds like either a faulty start relay or the compressor is seized. If you have a multi- meter you can check the compressor to see if the windings are ok. Unplug the fridge. Remove the panel at the back down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor. On the side of the comp. will be the start relay/overload assembly. Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle. With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin. You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms. On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding=not good ! If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit. This will start it if it's not seized also known as a "locked rotor".. You can find them at most brick & mortar appliance parts locations or on-line vendors. The package contains info on how to connect it. If that doesn't yield any results moving forward, let me know we'll go from there. **I suggest you phone Whirlpool customer support first though ( they own Maytag ) as they recently had a massive recall regarding the starting device of many compressor's and you may find your's to be included therefore have it repaired at no cost.** they will know by your model and serial number or if that isn't clear the number on the compressor. Good Luck Thanks for visiting "fixya", please take a second to rate my solution and leave a comment/testimony to it's helpfulness. macmarkus :)
Posted on May 02, 2010
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