What is collagen?
Collagen represents a third of the proteins in the human body. This fibrous macromolecule is described as being structural because it is responsible for tissue cohesion and regeneration. There are different types of collagen with different compositions and functions. Type l collagen is the most common, providing connective tissue with consistency and elasticity.
Where does the word collagen come from?
The word collagen comes from the Greek “kolla” meaning “glue”. The “glue-producing” protein acts as a natural binder between the dermis and the epidermis.
Collagen is produced by fibroblasts, cells of the dermis which determine the skin’s structure. It is formed of three chains of amino acids which are attached to each other in a characteristic triple helix. In the epidermis, these helices join together to create extremely resistant fibres. These fibres bind together to create a network which contributes to the extracellular matrix in the same way as elastin and hyaluronic acid. The more collagen fibres the skin contains, the firmer it is.
Why does our skin age?
Skin ageing is primarily caused by a slowdown in the renewal of our cells. Collagen makes up to 80% of the skin. From the age of 25, it decreases by 1% per year. The production of elastin and hyaluronic acid also decreases. The structure of the extracellular matrix becomes weaker, causing wrinkles and sagging skin.
A phenomenon called glycation accentuates skin ageing. This is a chemical reaction which happens when glucose molecules attach themselves to proteins. The cells become rigid, disturbing the structure of the tissues. In the epidermis, elastin and collagen are particularly affected.
The skin can be harmed by the sun’s rays. This phenomenon is known as photoageing. Prolonged exposure to UV light weakens the epidermal cells and affects collagen.
Which active ingredients stimulate collagen production?
Retinol and its natural alternative Vigna aconitifolia
Retinol is a chemical compound which is derived from vitamin A and belongs to the retinoid family. Used in cosmetics since the mid-90s, it is an outstanding anti-ageing ingredient. It visibly reduces wrinkles, leaving the skin softer and more elastic.
Retinol has an effect on the very structure of the dermis by promoting the production of collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. To be effective, a high concentration must be used; this can irritate the skin and cause allergic reactions. Retinol should therefore be applied with caution.
There is a natural botanical alternative to retinol: Vigna aconitifolia, a plant which is native to the arid regions of southern Asia. The extract of its seeds stimulates epidermal cell renewal and the skin’s synthesis of collagen. It acts in a similar way to retinol and has shown equally effective results while being more stable and better tolerated by the skin.
Vitamin C, essential for collagen synthesis
Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is a powerful vitamin. It acts as an antioxidant and contributes to the body’s metabolic function. Vitamin C is needed for collagen synthesis. A severe deficiency can lead to scurvy, a fatal disease which is caused by a lack of collagen production. High levels of vitamin C can therefore reduce cellular ageing and the appearance of wrinkles.
Unfortunately, our body cannot store vitamin C. As a result, we need to take it regularly to benefit from all its advantages. It is naturally present in many fruit and vegetables. A food supplement can also help to increase your daily intake.
Vitamin C and the impact of smoking.
Nicotine destroys vitamin C which is essential for collagen production. As a result, wrinkles are more pronounced in smokers.
PATYKA’s Pro-Collagen Lift Mask, an all-round product to combat the effects of ageing.
As the 2020 Gold Medal winner of Cosmétique Magazine’s Pharmacy Skincare category, PATYKA’s Pro-Collagen Lift Mask stimulates the production of collagen with its high concentration of anti-ageing active ingredients. It is made up of 99.9% ingredients of natural origin, 37.9% of which are organic. Its creamy texture is suitable for all skin types.
With its unique formula, made with amino acids, vitamin C and pure plant-derived hyaluronic acid with a low molecular weight, it restores the skin’s firmness and elasticity. A high concentration of Vigna aconitifolia seed extract, a 100% natural retinol-like active ingredient, radically reduces wrinkles and redefines the shape of your face.
Some plants have anti-ageing, anti-dark spot and antioxidant properties which are similar to retinol and are better tolerated by the skin. PATYKA’s Repair Night Serum uses an active ingredient comparable to retinol, derived from rosehip oil, to tackle the signs of ageing. This complex of 16 natural essential oils boosts the skin’s radiance by stimulating the skin’s overnight renewal process. In the morning, your face is visibly firmer and more radiant.