The Nenets people of the Siberian arctic are the guardians of a style of reindeer herding that is the last of its kind. Through a yearly migration of over a thousand kilometres, these people move gigantic herds of reindeer from summer pastures in the north to winter pastures just south of the Arctic Circle.
Such a difficult environment unites the people physically through a regimented work ethic, but far more importantly, the Yamal-Nenets are unified by a robust and vibrant culture. It is a culture that has had to survive a turbulent history, from early Russian colonization, to Stalin’s terror regime, to the modern day dangers of a rapacious oil and gas development program.
The chum is the living space and is made of reindeer skins that are laid over a skeleton of long wooden poles, many of which have a special position in the structure and are not interchangeable.
Usually there will be one family per chum and the number of chums will depend on the size of the brigade or camp. During migrations chums are moved every other day among the most mobile herders and the chum sites are chosen based on pasture, relief and ground quality - having a water source nearby is also important, for brewing the number one Nenets beverage, Sri Lanka black tea.
The Nenets herder economy is driven by the reindeer meat that they sell. The salary they get from herding state-farm reindeer is minimal when compared to the income they get from selling private reindeer, and from sawing off their antlers to be exported to China as a male potency drug. Aside from its market value, reindeer meat is a source of food, shelter, clothing, transport, spiritual fulfilment and means of socialising.
It is still common that a bride price in the form of reindeer is paid, and a dowry is brought into the young family when a tundra couple marries.
The chum site is split into male and female space, the women work in front of the chum with their sledges whilst the men tend to work behind. Inside, the household head’s place is in the centre, behind the table, whereas women sleep and work closer to the entrance. Women’s work, connected to heating and cooking, takes place mostly at the stove.
No-one knows for certain whether it is the reindeer that lead the people or vice versa.
What is certain is that fewer places on earth are home to a more challenging environment, an environment where temperatures plummet to -50C and where crossing the worlds fifth largest river as it deep-freezes is just part of the routine.
Hunting and fishing supplement the Nenets way of life. For those with smaller herds, fishing is of particular importance and counts for most of their income.