High in the Peruvian Andes lies Cusco, the ancestral capital of the Inca empire and gateway to the world-famous ruins at Machu Picchu.
Many excited tourists rush through this mountain crossroads, but that’s a mistake. The city’s fascinating combination of Spanish Colonial architecture, Inca stonework, indigenous Quechua culture, and beautiful natural setting make it worth a couple days of alley-way wandering and siesta-filled afternoons.
As the capital of the far-flung Inca empire, Q’osqoI was known as the “navel of the world.” And if we can be forgiven a mixed metaphor, as the administrative and religious center it was also the beating heart of the realm.
At its peak the population swelled to 150,000, and roads extended from its center to all parts of the empire. It was so important to the Inca that Spanish invader Pizarro and his conquistadores realized that to truly control the region, the capital had to be destroyed. And after the battle of 1532, they proceeded to do just that.
But there must have been a few red Spanish faces when it was realized that these “savages” had built sturdy walls that couldn’t be torn down. And in Pizarro’s version of “if you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em,” new structures were built on top of the old walls. These hybrid walls, still present today, are some of the most photographed sites in town.
The heart of the city, then and now, is The Plaza de Armas, which showcases classic Spanish Colonial Architecture at its best. The ornate, Renaissance-style Catedral dominates the square and the bench-lined plaza, which could have been lifted right out of Madrid, makes a pleasant spot to while away an afternoon.
Cusco is also the regional center for the indigenous Quechua Culture, so wandering the streets is a golden opportunity to see rural Andean women in traditional clothing selling handicrafts. And if you’re lucky, you’ll stumble on a pet llama … literally.
A fixture that may surprise visitors are signs advertising the regional delicacy cuy – a.k.a. roasted guinea pig! More protein than pet, this fast-breeding rodent has been a part of the Peruvian diet for centuries. There are restaurants that specialize in cuy, and you can buy it as a meal-on-a-stick from street vendors. Visitors may giggle and cringe at the thought of eating what may have been a childhood pet, but laugh all you want. A well-respected ecological watchdog weighed in on the issue:
“Rodents and other small livestock represent a low-impact meat alternative to carbon-costly beef.” —The Nature Conservancy
If all this isn’t enough to convince you to make a stop in Cusco, there’s one more: Altitude Sickness. Cusco’s elevation is 11,000 feet, and no matter what your physical condition you’ll be impacted by the thinner air. And there’s a good chance you’ll experience the lingering effects of Altitude Sickness – or Soroche, as it’s called in Spanish.
Most travelers fly into Cusco from Lima, which is at sea level, so it takes time to adjust before you ascend to Machu Picchu. The shortness of breath, headaches, and nausea can sideline even the fittest of people. In our experience, the best solution was to take it easy on the day of arrival, have a nap in the afternoon, indulge gently with food, avoid alcohol, get a good night’s sleep, and acclimate for a couple of days before moving on.
Visiting Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley requires passing through Cusco, and this scenic gem completes the historic and cultural picture of the Inca. You’ve come a long way, so why not make a stop?
James & Terri
Last updated January 26, 2020