Stewing is certainly one of the most ancient ways of cooking. Because little precision is required, even in the choice of heat sources, it is easy to understand why this was one of the first cooking techniques developed by man.
In some instances nothing more is required than throwing diverse ingredients into a pot, covering everything with water and cooking until tender, usually a minimum of 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
Still popular, stews are perfect do-ahead meals, as age and, often, even freezing improves their taste.
One of the most important things to remember in meat cookery is that different methods are appropriate for different cuts. Wet heat methods, such as stewing, were developed expressly for tougher cuts. Even more important to realize is that you do not improve stews by using ``better`` cuts. On the contrary, you will end up with less flavor and dry meat.
Meat is made up of protein joined and held in place by connective tissue. In tougher cuts this tissue, gristle, adds flavor and, when well cooked, actually tastes as good as the meat. In more tender cuts there is less connective tissue, and therefore, less flavor to add to a long cooking. Because tender cuts lack the strength of meats with plenty of connective tissue, tender cuts should only be cooked briefly. They will become tasteless shreds when stewed.
So seek out cheap, flavorful, tough cuts, and don`t be overly concerned with trimming. The chunks of meat can go in the pot just as they come from the butcher; the fat will dissolve while cooking and rise to the surface, to be skimmed off. This applies to beef, lamb, veal and chicken, all popular choices for good stews.
The minimum time for stewing is about 1 1/2 hours. In that time meat usually can be brought to the well-done stage (185 degrees) and the tough, rubbery protein cooked until the connective tissues soften and the meat relaxes.
If the meat still is not tender, just cook it a little longer and it will tenderize. It may take a large piece of meat 1 1/2 hours just to reach an internal temperature of 185 degrees and an additional 1 1/2 hours to reach the softening stage.
TWO TYPES OF STEWS
Basically there are two ways to prepare stew: Either sear (brown) the main element before adding the other ingredients, or just combine everything, including the cooking liquid, at the outset. The seared stew, or brown stew, adds a step; so it takes more time. But it`s an important step that is often added to intensify the flavor of stews based on them.
One of my favorites is the blanquette of veal. Once I was remodeling, living in an apartment that temporarily had no kitchen, but I found it simple to entertain eight people with only one portable electric burner.
Chunks of veal are put into a pot with chicken or veal stock, or even water, the aromatic vegetables are added for flavoring and it all cooks until you`re ready to make the sauce, a delicious, lemony, white one made from the flavorful stock left in the stew pot.
Blanquettes also are made with chicken and lamb. If the meat is seared first, the stew is known as a navarin. In either case, it is finished with a rich, creamy sauce.
The chart should take the mystery out of the various names and ways of making stews. Just remember that stewing always means to cook completely covered with liquid, kept at a simmer.
BLANQUETTE OF VEAL SIX SERVINGS
Preparation time: 25 minutes
Cooking time: 3 hours
3 pounds veal stew meat cut into 2 cubes; see note
5 to 6 cups veal or chicken stock, or water with a Knorr chicken stock cube added
1 onion, unpeeled, studded with 1 clove
1 carrot, peeled and quartered
1 celery stalk, quartered
Bouquet garni (fresh parsley stems, thyme and bay leaf tied together)
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 tablespoons flour
18 small mushroom cups
3 egg yolks
1/2 cup whipping cream
2 to 4 tablespoons lemon juice
1. Place the veal in a casserole and cover with the veal stock. Add the onion, carrot, celery and bouquet garni. Simmer, partially covered, until tender, about 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
2. Remove the meat and vegetables; reduce the cooking liquid to about 3 1/2 cups.
In a separate pan melt the butter, add the flour and cook, stirring constantly for at least 2 minutes. Be sure not to let the mixture brown. Add the hot liquid all at once, and bring to the boil, stirring until the sauce thickens. Add the mushroom caps and cook for an additional 6 to 8 minutes.
4. Pour the sauce and mushrooms over the veal about 10 minutes before serving. Reheat slowly.
5. Meanwhile, in bowl blend the egg yolks, cream and lemon juice. Slowly add a cup of sauce to the egg mixture, then pour that mixture back into the casserole. Do not add the stock to the egg mixture too quickly or it will curdle. Taste and adjust the seasonings if needed; additional lemon juice may be needed.