Symptoms: small white spots, nodules, or patches on their fins, body, or gills. Fish may produce excessive slime, show problems breathing (ich invades the gills), have frayed fins, loss of appetite, and cloudy eyes. White spots may not be obvious on light colored fish or if the infection is just in the gills. Other indications can include rubbing or scratching against decor or substrate, abnormal swimming, hanging at the surface or on the bottom, acting lethargic, or breathing more rapidly as if in distress.
Marine Ich, Crypt, or Marine White Spot Disease is one of the most common maladies experienced in the marine aquarium, with the other being Marine Velvet, and is attributed to a ciliate (a protozoa) bearing the name of cryptocaryon. Cryptocarion is often confused with velvet disease (Oodinium). Since the treatments for these two diseases are completely different, the diagnosis must be certain. The Cryptocaryon spots are much larger and can be seen clearly. The spots in the case of Oodinium are so small that it appears more like the fish has had powdered sugar sprinkled over it. It is hard to discern individual spots. The differentiation is easier under the microscope: Oodinium organisms look like black balls at a 100 – 200 magnification. Ichthyo and Cryptocaryon organisms contain a clear, horseshoe-shaped nucleus on the inside.
This disease can appear in environments with excessive stress, poor water quality and fluctuations in water temperature. It can also come into the aquarium on a new fish that is a carrier.
This protozoa has four phases to its life, lasting up to 38 days depending on the temperature of the environment. This parasite affects marine and brackish fish. Aquarists are most familiar with the stage where the protozoa is infesting the host, with small white spots on the fish's body and fins. Unfortunately this visual clue is also the reason for difficulty in eradicating marine ich. Once the parasite has left the host's body many aquarists believe their fish is cured and the problem is solved and so they cease treatment, only to have another larger reoccurrence.
For eradication treatment must be carried through to completion, so understanding the parasite's life cycle will greatly increase your chances of success. The life cycle is outlined here:
The life cycle of this parasite can vary dramatically and is dependent on temperature. Optimal growth of most strains of Cryptocaryon appear to be about 23–30°C, and they cycle faster in a warmer environment. A common mistake is to confuse the treatment of this protozoan with the treatment for freshwater Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis). Raising the temperature of the tank does not help eliminating this protozoa like it does with freshwater Ich.
Ideally the parasite would be eliminated while on the host or shortly after leaving the host. However, those that are buried in the gills are immune to treatment until they leave the fish. This along with the variability of the cycle makes it difficult to treat in such a timely manner.
Please remove any activated carbon from the filter for the duration of the medication use. UV-C appliances and CO₂ fertilizing appliances also need to be switched off. Please also ensure that skimmers and ozonisers in saltwater are switched off. Change 50 % of the water prior to application of any medication. Aerate the aquarium using a diaphragm pump with airstone during the treatment. Filter during the treatment. We recommend cleaning the filter prior to the treatment.
To rid the aquarium of this protozoa, it is recommended that you use a combination of water changes and chemical treatment, a multiple number of times. A common mistake is to confuse the treatment of this protozoan with the treatment for freshwater Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis). Raising the temperature of the tank does not help eliminating this protozoa like it does with freshwater Ich.
Natural methods include:
Reportably some healthy fish can develop a limited immunity. It may not be a total immunity, rather being just a small amount of infestation rather than extensive infestation. This immunity is short-lived lasting only about six months.
After the treatment, please filter the aquarium water for 24 hours using activated carbon to remove the residues of medication. Afterwards the activated carbon should be duly discarded. The addition of a bacterial starter to the aquarium water helps to replace any purifying bacteria which may have been affected. Please check during the treatment and daily in the first days after the treatment the ammonium/ ammonia and nitrite values. With nitrite values of over 0.5 mg/l an immediate water change of 50% should be carried out and a bacterial starter added.
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