National Geographic : 1936 Oct
GUATEMALA INTERLUDE Photograph by E. John Long "RAINY SEASON BRIDGES" KEEP PEDESTRIANS' FEET DRY When torrential downpours begin in May, these folding footbridges are erected across many of the side streets in Guatemala City. On a corner of the building in the background is a small shrine, containing a vase filled with freshly cut flowers. cities, the Indians of the highlands of Guatemala have maintained a proud, semi independence as farmers, weavers, and pot tery makers. Conquered but never assimilated, they are aristocrats among the native peoples of Central America, and they are sufficiently well organized to make mass petitions to the central government when local condi tions demand it. They have had much less contact with other races than Indians else where have had, and are not badly scourged with alcohol. Consequently, they have retained their self-respect and are neither subservient nor cringing. To students of the early races of Central America, Chichicastenango has another in terest. In its convent was found a book, the Popol Vuh, written by a Christianized native shortly after the Conquest. This rare document, describing Quiche history and mythology, the deeds of the hero gods of the Maya, and the Maya ver sion of the Creation, survived the relentless campaign of destruction waged by the early Spaniards against all native writings or monuments only because it was hidden for many years. As a record of the traditions and of the philosophical and religious beliefs of an ancient race, the Popol Vuh has been com pared in some respects to the Japanese Nihongi and the Brahmanic Rig-Veda. Al though it has been translated into Spanish and French, no one has published an Eng lish version of this remarkable book. Roman Catholic, the little white stone church of Santo Tomas at Chichicastenango is also a Quiche shrine. The Indian's re ligion, as it is practiced here, may be con sidered an interesting example of the pas sage from half-forgotten pagan idolatry toward orthodox Christianity. To the stranger, Sunday worship at Santo TomAs is a compelling spectacle, because there can be no denying the fervor and deep sincerity of the Indian's faith, whether it follows accepted forms or not (Color Plate V).