Patchwork, an element of quilt-making, is often employed by women of the Herero tribe in fashioning their distinctive dresses. The Victorian style of these garments is due to Rhenish Missionary influence.
As often, the Army followed in the footsteps of the Church, and Germany colonized what became known as German South West Africa in 1884. Friction between the farming colonists and Herero herders led to the Herero Wars of 1904 – 1907. German General Lothar von Trotha ruthlessly aimed to annihilate the Herero nation, effecting the first genocide of the 20th century. 80% of the Herero population was wiped out, leaving only about 15 000 survivors.
After German colonial rule ended with World War I, what anthropologists describe as a “subversion of their former rulers’ fashion” took place. Herero men started dressing in clothing resembling uniforms. In this way, the Herero kept alive the memory of the injustice done to them. Women likewise retained the style introduced by the missionaries: long, full-skirted dresses over multiple petticoats, frequently with sculptural sleeves. The important detail rendering the costume authentically Herero, was the addition of the otjikalva, a horizontal horned headdress. This pays homage to the cows that have historically sustained the Herero.
Ulla Johnson’s collection contains elements of patchwork and colour blocking, and also echoes the Victorian silhouette of full long full skirts and statement sleeves. The characteristic high waist of Herero costume also makes an appearance.