The end of the summer cottage season is a significant event. Before mothballing the dacha for the winter, experienced owners of suburban areas necessarily perform a number of important measures in the garden and in the garden. What needs to be done in October – November to significantly facilitate your work in the spring?
List of works in the country in the second half of autumn:
1. Harvesting late and cold-resistant crops. At the end of the season, dill, parsley, arugula and other leafy vegetables are harvested, carrots, celery roots and beets are dug, pumpkins and cabbage are cut, apples and pears of late ripening varieties are harvested.
2. Cleaning and disposal of vegetable waste. After the end of the leaf fall, it is necessary to clear all parts of the site from volunteers, fallen leaves and shoots cut off from perennials. Plant residues can be burned, and the resulting ash can be used to fertilize the soil in the beds, in berry fields and in the garden, as an effective potash-phosphorus fertilizer with microelements.
Leaves and shredded branches can be placed in the composting bin, but it should be understood that this type of organic matter takes about 2 years to decompose. It is recommended to take out the carrion from the site or bury it to a depth of about 0.5 m.
3. Sowing garlic and other vegetables before winter. Winter crops are practiced by many summer residents. Usually, at the end of the season, the following crops are planted: garlic, onions, beets, carrots, parsley, dill. These vegetables give the earliest possible harvests, unlike those planted in the spring.
4. Sideration. Sowing siderates in open areas and in greenhouses is an effective way to increase soil fertility and cleanse the land of pathogenic microflora. In the second half of autumn, cold-resistant crops are most often sown: mustard, oil radish, winter oats, wheat, rye.
5. Cultivation of land in the beds. In those cases when the site is not planted with green manure, after harvesting, many gardeners immediately prepare the site for spring sowing. Simultaneously with digging, the soil is enriched with superphosphate in combination with potassium sulfate or complex fertilizers with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium (ash, “Ecoplant”, “Potassium monophosphate”, “Universal autumn for fruit and vegetable crops”).
6. Alkalinization of the soil. In cases where there is an increased acidity of the soil on your site, lime fluff, dolomite flour or chalk are covered up for digging. These materials are used exclusively in autumn. It should be understood that the process of normalizing the acid balance of the soil takes about six months.
7. Planting garden strawberries and strawberries before winter. Seedlings and cuttings (whiskers) of strawberries take root well if they are planted 2-3 weeks before the onset of persistent soil frosts.
8. Planting of seedlings of fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. According to gardeners, plants planted in autumn take root much better, of course, subject to agricultural technology (filling the planting pit with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and compost, water charging, pruning seedlings, shelter and mulching).
9. Pruning bushes and trees, pest control. In the fall, sanitary, thinning, shaping and rejuvenating pruning of plantings must be performed. Some plants are pruned to stumps, for example, remontant raspberries, peonies, hydrangea, clematis. At this time, the use of toxic insecticides and fungicides is most justified, especially in cases where perennials have suffered from outbreaks of infection or pest infestations in the current season.
10. Blockage of wounds in trees. It is recommended to cover the places of cuts and fresh cracks in the bark of trees with garden varnish or acrylic paint, otherwise there is a possibility of penetration of pathogens through them. Hollows on the trunks of old trees are treated with a solution of ferrous sulfate (10%).
11. Protection of tree boles from rodents. If hares, mice and other animals appear on your site in winter, feeding on the young bark of trees, then it is recommended to wrap the lower parts of their trunks with improvised materials, for example, burlap, netting, cardboard, etc.
12. Lawn conservation. After harvesting leaves, nuts and other fruits from the lawn, the last haircut is carried out. Mowing is planned no later than 4 weeks before the predicted frost. During this time, the herbage grows to a height of about 12 cm and in this form goes to winter.
13. Suspension of the well. In summer cottages, before frosts, they must drain the water and close the well. If you leave water in the pipes, then you cannot avoid their rupture when the water freezes and expands.
14. Insulation of bushes and young trees. Roses, raspberries, clematis, currants and other perennials, especially young ones, are usually insulated for the winter with the help of fallen leaves, branches, a thick layer of mulch from tyrsa, compost, peat, moss or humus. This is necessary in regions where winter temperatures are below –15 ° C.
15. Disinfection and conservation of greenhouses. After harvesting the last plants and their remains from closed structures, the soil and internal elements are disinfected using fungicidal solutions. The earth is spilled with solutions containing hay bacillus or green trichoderma, and the inner parts of the greenhouses are treated with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate (2%). Many summer residents sow greenhouse crops on greenhouse beds before winter, which have disinfecting properties, for example, white mustard or lupine.
16. Procurement of seeds. At the end of the season, you can collect seeds of dill, marigolds, parsley, arugula, lettuce, if there are plants on the site that have completely completed the growing season.
As you can see, even at the end of the season, summer residents have a certain scope of work, which it is advisable to complete in a timely manner in order to avoid numerous problems next summer. Easy work for you!
An interesting way of rooting seedlings from branches in water – https://sdelaysam-svoimirukami.ru/7615-ljubopytnyj-sposob-ukorenenija-sazhencev-s-vetok-v-vode.html