By: Mary Ellen Ellis
Your October to-do list for the garden will depend on where you live. Knowing what to do in the garden for the month will help you prep it for the winter and make sure you’re hitting all the appropriate regional garden chores.
Gardening in October depends on local climate, but there are some chores everyone can do this time of year. It’s a great time, for instance, to have your soil tested by your local extension office and to make any necessary amendments. Clean up beds and rake and compost leaves. Plant new trees and shrubs, and save dry seeds from vegetables and flowers you want to propagate or share.
Here are some specific regional garden chores for October:
In the cooler interior of the Pacific Northwest region, you’ll want to:
Along the coast:
In most areas of the West, like California, you can:
In Southern California:
In the colder growing zones of the Northern Rockies and Plains states, October is the time to:
In the colder regions of the high desert:
In the hotter parts of the Southwest, now is the time to:
Warmer regions of the South-Central region are much like the southwest:
In the cooler parts of the South, like northern Texas:
October begins to get cold and frosty in parts of the Upper Midwest:
There’s still much to do across the Ohio Valley region. In these middle states in October you can:
The Northeast varies in climate so pay attention to which area you’re located. In northern areas like Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont:
In the warmer states:
In most of the Southeast region you can:
In South Florida:
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Spring lawns begin in the Fall. Now is the time for seeding and feeding.
With less weed competition, grass grows best in most places during autumn. Cut and remove crabgrass before it sheds its seeds. Clean out other weeds too.
Loosen the soil in bare patches, work in grass fertilizer or a complete plant food, then sow with a grass mixture suited to your conditions.
Fall planted grass handles late fall raking of leaves without damage when it gets an early, strong start.
Even on a good lawn, plant food and extra seed are advisable. For such “extra” growth use 3 pounds plant food and 1/4 pound grass seed to 100 square feet.
In making a new lawn in the fall, dig the area and mix peat moss and plant food with the surface soil. If needed put at least 2 inches of extra topsoil.
Rake and roll two or three times to get an even, firm surface. Sow 1/2 pound grass seed per 100 square feet. Rake and finally roll using a 200-pound roller.
Transplant evergreens any time in September or early October.
This applies to conifers, pine, spruce, hemlock and the like and the broadleaved kinds: rhododendrons, mountain laurel, azaleas and similar plants. All growth has matured.
The plants come with a ball of soil. Set the plants at the same depth they were in the nursery. Roots near the surface can become injured if planting too deeply. Pack soil against the root ball and water thoroughly. Mix good soil with peat moss or humus plus a handful of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant.
Late September and October is also time for ordering and transplanting the deciduous (leaf dropping) trees and shrubs.
The few possible exceptions: magnolia, birch, cherry and dogwood, although dogwood is safe when dug from the nursery.
Unless the trees or shrubs are large, a ball of soil is not necessary. Transplant most bareroot shade and flowering trees up to 10 feet high.
However, keep the roots moistened until planted. Pack screened soil between the roots and flood with water.
Secure single stemmed trees planted this way with two stakes.
The Monthly Maintenance checklists were developed to help spread out the normal maintenance chores associated with home ownership, into more manageable portions reflecting today’s hectic schedules. Included in each months checklist, are links to how-to article’s, tips, tricks, and other timely reminders.
We included a gardening and grounds checklist that is mainly based on Hardiness Zone 8. For other zones, you would have to adjust accordingly.
A year of tips from the Southern Living garden experts.
Turf―A dry winter day is a good time to mow a dormant, warm-season lawn. This grooms the lawn and removes fallen leaves and pine needles. It also allows you to inspect your yard for winter weeds. Control them by spraying when the weather warms in spring.
Planting―This is a good time to plant new shrubs and trees. Evaluate your landscape, remove unattractive plants, and replace them with others that you prefer.
Lawns―As warm-season turf begins to green up in your area, it's time to think about liming your grass. If your soil is acid, you need to do this every couple of years. The best way to tell if you need lime is with a soil test, which will let you know exactly how much to apply. But if you're not able to get your soil tested, use the general guideline of 15 to 20 pounds of lime per 100 square feet of lawn area. Pelletized lime is less messy and easier to apply than the white-powdered kind.
Azaleas―As this Southern classic comes into bloom, be sure to mark the color of each plant if you haven't planted them by color. For maximum impact, group azaleas in masses of one color or in layers of color. It is okay to move them while they are blooming. But if you wait until they finish, they can be rearranged, pruned, and shaped for a better show next year.
Water―Pay attention to hanging baskets and containers, because they dry out more quickly with the warmer temperatures. Irrigate plants at dawn and dusk to reduce water loss from evaporation. As you make additions to your garden, you will need to water them more than established areas.
Houseplants―Place houseplants outside in a shady location to enjoy the fresh air and rejuvenate. Water regularly, and feed with an all-purpose (20-20-20) water-soluble fertilizer to encourage growth.
Mulch―Apply extra pine straw or shredded bark mulch around newly planted trees and shrubs to better transition these plants into your garden. The extra mulch will reduce water loss and heat stress to the new roots.
Lawns―Raise the cutting height of your lawnmower 1 to 1.5 inches to help your grass survive drought and heat. Tall turf shades the soil, slows evaporation, and reduces weeds.
Birdbaths―Relocate birdbaths to a shaded spot to slow evaporation and keep water from becoming too hot. Placing the bath near a small tree or large shrub provides shelter for the birds and encourages use.
Fall planting―Begin planting trees and shrubs this month. Planting in autumn allows them time to grow roots and transition into the garden.
Water―As temperatures begin to cool, plants need less water. Adjust your watering schedule for lawns, borders, and containers. Pay close attention to containers as they tend to become waterlogged.
Turf―Overseed warm-season grasses such as
centipede or Bermuda with annual ryegrass for a green lawn during the upcoming winter months.
Color beds―Remove spent summer annuals,
prepare the soil, and plant cool-weather annuals now. Add a balanced slow-release fertilizer, organic matter such as composted pine bark, and then till
the bed before planting.
Fall greens―It's not too late to sow seeds of mustard, collards, turnips, and lettuce for a fall garden.
In the Upper and Middle South you may want to use transplants of lettuce for best results.
Compost―Cleaning up the garden will yield plenty of fallen leaves and plant debris for compost. In an out-of-the-way corner of the garden, mix green and dry materials with a shovelful of soil and an optional handful of fertilizer (any kind except a weed-and-feed product). Sprinkle with water weekly if there is no rain. You'll have compost by spring, sooner if you turn the pile.
Lawns―Fertilize tall fescue and other cool-season lawns in the Middle and Upper South with a quality lawn fertilizer, such as 30-2-4 or 29-3-4, that contains timed-release nitrogen to prevent burn. It will continuously feed your lawn until time for a spring feeding.
Lime―If the soil is acidic, your landscape probably could benefit from an application of lime. Broadcast using a fertilizer spreader, or apply by hand. Always wear gloves and distribute evenly. Because lime takes a long time to react with the soil, winter applications help the spring garden. Apply at the rate of 15 to 20 pounds per 100 square feet. If you are unsure of
how much lime your soil needs, have a soil test performed.
Irrigation―If your automatic watering system stays on all year, it's time to adjust the amount of watering during each cycle. Many dormant plants require lower amounts of water in colder months. A good rule of thumb is to reduce irrigation time by half when night temperatures remain in the 40s or below. Turn the system off in rainy periods to reduce costs and prevent overwatering.