In order to maintain the shape of the garment, some material is usually glued or attached to the garment during sewing, one of which is lining. In suits, for example, lining is used on the collar, lapels and front chest. As an accessory, interlining is neither the finishing touch to the style of a garment like buttons; nor is it like the zip, which was chosen as one of the ten inventions that changed the 20th century and changed the concept of traditional connections for thousands of years.
Interlining is hidden inside the garment, and has always been obscure, clothing schools will not specifically open a course on interlining; small and medium-sized clothing enterprises in the use of interlining, often to "can use can" as a guiding principle. So the average garment enthusiast or even garment company often thinks of interlining only when there is a problem with the quality of the product. A piece of sewn clothing, buttons can be replaced if they are not good, zips can be replaced if they are broken, but the quality of the interlining or improper use of the fabric blistering, shelling and other situations are difficult to modify.
The performance of the interlining and the performance of the garment fabric should match. From the point of view of clothing selection, fabric is the protagonist, interlining is a supporting role, but it directly affects the wearing effect of clothing, is the "skeleton" and the essence of a piece of clothing, and should not be understood as simply "accompanying". The role of modern interlining can be broadly summarised as follows: to give clothing beautiful curves and shape; enhance clothing brace and elasticity, enhance the three-dimensional sense; improve the drape of clothing and fabric feel, enhance the comfort of clothing; enhance the sense of thickness, fullness and insulation of clothing; prevent clothing deformation, so that clothing wear after washing to maintain the original shape; clothing local reinforcement of the role of reinforcement.
There are three main aspects as follows.
1, heavy fabrics or warp and weft threads to strengthen the twist of the fabric, generally choose a smaller number of mesh, the amount of coating higher lining, to ensure that there is sufficient peel strength after bonding.
2, light fabrics to choose high mesh, coating amount of less lining, in order to avoid bonding, ironing glue, in order to ensure the quality of bonding, lining in the bonding process temperature coefficient should be appropriately reduced, which not only can save energy, but also to obtain a better feel, but also to solve the bonding process due to high temperature caused by the phenomenon of yellowing. Some light fabrics need the same or similar colour lining fabric to match it to avoid colour transmission.
3, elastic fabrics should choose elastic interlining with it (note: the direction of elasticity of the interlining should be consistent when bonding), so that the garment is not easy to blister.
At present, many domestic manufacturers of product development mainly remain at the level of clothing style design, fabrics and accessories -interlining although become the first choice of clothing design and development, but most manufacturers only on the interlining colour, brace, feel and other appearance quality and consumers can directly feel the breathability, moisture absorption, wrinkle resistance and other internal quality requirements, the cost of clothing products on the matter of Fabric and accessories - interlining prices are concerned, but the awareness of the product's environmental safety performance is weak, rarely take the initiative to pay attention to the product's environmental protection, in general, interlining to ensure its shrinkage and elasticity, subject to resin finishing. Resin finishing agents generally use N-hydroxymethyl compounds, such compounds are condensed from formaldehyde, so in the finishing agent contains uncondensed free formaldehyde.
Modern people generally seek to return to nature, and the world is demanding more and more comfort for clothing. There are two main points: ① the current casual atmosphere in the clothing industry, even solemn suits are increasingly trending towards a "soft, light, thin, straight, suitable" casual style, clothing fabrics become comfortable, soft, light and flexible; ② natural fibres to ramie, linen as a representative of the hemp fabric and silk fabrics are often used to make thin summer clothing materials, people wear more sweat, light, light and flexible. When people wear them, they are more sweaty, light, airy and comfortable. At the same time, the breathability and moisture absorption of interlinings are becoming more and more of a concern. According to the popular situation of fabrics, soft interlining products can meet the light quality of spring and summer fabrics and maintain the original natural elasticity of clothing fabrics.