At the southern-most tip of the Italian peninsula, in the province of Reggio Calabria, Aspromonte National Park extends from the Tyrrhenian Sea to the north, to the Ionic sea in the south, and from the Catanzarese heights in the east to the Straits of Messina in the west.
According to some scholars, the term ‘Aspromonte’ may refer to the harshness of the terrain (aspr- ‘harsh’ monte-mountain). According to others, it derives from the Byzantine-greek expression aspròs, meaning ‘white’, the colour of the stream beds that wind down from the mountains to the Ionic Sea.
The mountains of Aspromonte came into existence together with the Alps, roughly two hundred million years ago. The landscape was profoundly altered by successive epochs, culminating in the cataclysmic events which began when Africa started to advance towards Europe. The waters flowed back, and the crests of the Alps rose up. The peaks of Aspromonte and the other mountain ranges of Calabria represent their southernmost vangaurd.
From the geological and geomorphological point of view, Aspromonte has a central nucleus of gneiss, at times granitiferous. It resembles an immense and imposing vulcanic cone, deeply furrowed along it’s southern face by steep river valleys that plummet towards the coast. The northern face features instead the so-called ‘plains’ or ‘fields’ which gently descend toward the sea. The highest point of the range is Montalto (High-mount) at 1956 meters above sea level.
The flora of Aspromonte is dominated by mediterranean maquis (heather, myrtle, mastic, rockrose, devil’s milk, rose-laurel, tamarisk, various kinds of broom, etc) along the Ionic coast up to an altitude of 800/900 meters a.s.l, where it gives way to dense mixed woods of chestnut, aspen, holm and various species of oak.
At higher elevations still lie expanses of forests made up for the most part of conformations of beech, silver fir and pine.
Along the Tirrenian coast, where a more humid climate prevails, the mediterranean maquis is substituted by forests of ancient olive trees and by citrus orchards.
Furthermore, the rich and colourful outbursts of flowers in the winter and spring include, amongst many others, violets, narcissus, daisies, marigolds, crocus, asphodels, forget-me-nots, peonies and a wide variety of orchids.
As far as the fauna of Aspromonte is concerned, we are now certain of the presence of the appenine wolf, of the wild cat (sighted by Naturaliter in june 2000, along the road which leads from the Fields of Bova towards Old Roghudi); of the dromio – a particular species of oak rat; of the yellow bellied toad; of the dormouse; of the southern squirrell with its unmistakeable black livery; and of the speckled salamander. In the rivers at high altitude there is also to be found the trout. It is possible to witness the migration of falcons over the Straits of Messina from May to June. In the park may be seen the Bonelli eagle (sighted by Naturaliter in June 2000, along the Bonamico River) and buzzards and kestrels, which are common in all areas. There are also sparrowhawks, lanners, the black woodpecker, hoopoes, jays, blackbirds, royal owls, civet owls, barn owls, tawny owls, horned owls, mediterranean patridges and cuckoos.
Aspromonte National Park was founded on January 14, 1994, with a Decree of the President of the Italian Republic.
The territories it protects amount to 76,000 hectares, spread over 37 different Council Administrations within the Province of Reggio Calabria. The Park headquarters are located in Gambarie d’Aspromonte, in the Council Administration of Santo Stefano d’Aspromonte (RC).
Among the many fascinating objects of geographic and cultural interest, there are:
Montalto: at 1956mt it is the greatest elevation of the region, from whose beech-coverd peak it is possible to admire a 180° panorama of the Straits of Messina, the vulcano Etna in Sicily, the Eolian Islands, the Tyrrhenian and Ionic Seas and the backbone of the appenines stretching away to the north.
Fiumare: this particular type of seasonal river is found only in Aspromonte and in Mongolia’s Gobi Desert. They consist of wide gravel river-beds whose flow of water waxes and wanes drammatically with the changing seasons and which, on moon-lit nights, literally glow phosphorescent.
Waterfalls: Maesano Falls, Aposcipo Falls, Forgiarelle Falls, Amendolea Falls, Mundu and Galasia Falls, and numerous other smaller but equally wild and spectacular cascades, together with narrow river gorges (Furria, La Verde, Spasola) whose sheer rock walls rise up to 100 mt above the watercourse. There are also lakes (Lake Costantino) and other natural monuments, such as haunting monoliths (Cap Rock, Long Rock, Castle Rock, Saint Peter’s Rock, Dragon Rock and the Milk Barrels).
Ghost villages: these fascinating ancient towns, such as Old Africo, Casalinuovo, Old Roghudi, Pentadattilo, Chorio di Roghudi and Ferruzzano, were abbandoned following floods in 1951 and 1971.
There are also lively villages of immense historical, cultural and architectural charm and interest, amongst which Gerace, San Giorgio Morgeto, Bova, Palizzi, Mammola, San Lorenzo, Antonimia, the historic centre of San Luca, and Staiti.
The presence of the Greeks of Calabria in the Grecanic Area is also of the greatest importance. Equally important, but from the religious point of view, is the Sanctuary of Polsi, the home of an ancient cult of the Madonna, which is the final destination of fervent annual pilgramages from as far away as Sicily.
From the economic point of view, Aspromonte represents an extremely varied agricultural landscape, composed of vast olive groves – from which excellent extra-vergin oil is extracted – and large plots where citrus fruits such as oranges, mandarins and lemons are grown, along side other fruit trees, grapes and above all bergamot.
Bergamot (citrus bergamia) is similar to the lemon in colour and much like an orange in shape. It’s origins are uncertain, though some experts believe it may be the result of a spontaneous mutation of the sour orange. The only place in all the world where it thrives and produces abundant fruit of the highest quality is on the coastal region between Reggio Calabria and the town of Lochri. The fruit matures in the winter. The essential oil extracted from it is used above all in the manufacture of cosmetics and perfumes. It is also famous as the distinct flavour that has been added to tea blends in the north of England for over 200 years to create the wonderfully aromatic Earl Grey tea. For some time now it has been used in the pharmaceutical industry for its antiseptic and antibiotic qualities. It also provides a delightful aroma for making cakes, sweets, liqueurs and candies.
The Cuisine of Aspromonte is highly varied, with a number of different culinary traditions surviving in an authentic way. In fact, here deep-frying in olive oil remains a fundamental technique for preparing food. Alatucia (pork crackling) together with eggs are characteristic of the area, as are curcudia, a local variant of polenta. Goat’s meat is widely used, and one of the most exquisite specialities of the region is goat alla pecurara, which is prepared above all by men (pork and beef is also cooked). The area is also well known for its production of ricotta and cheeses following ancient recipes. The home-made pasta called maccarruni is very tasty. It consists of long strands of pasta dough wrapped around grass stems to make a tubular shape, making sure the pasta is thin and picks up the flavours of the sauce: normally goat’s meat sauce with salted ricotta grated on top.
A number of conserves are common, such as sun-dried tomatoes and olives preserved in oil. A range of salamis, such as capicollo (spiced and smoked ham) and suppizzata (large, spiced and smoked sausage) are delicious with home made bread. Not to be missed are the wonderful parmigiana di melanzane, an oven-baked dish made of eggplants, meat and tomatoes, and the peperonata, made with capsicum. Christmas sweets include petrali (fruit, nut and honey rolls) and zeppole (sweet fried bread dripped in honey), whilst at Easter the women make aggùte and cuddhuraci. There are also sciaruni, made with pastry, ricotta and egg, and various types of pita bread and scaddateddhi (fried breads stuffed with anchovies or ham and cheese). Dried figs with almonds are a must, as are the mulberries and dried pears.
Among the wines native to the area are to be found the Cuvertà and the Palizzi which, whilst not ‘DOC’, are widely appreciated. DOC wines from the region include the Mantonico and the Vino Greco di Bianco, a dessert wine. The production of a range of home-made liqueurs is well established, including limoncello made from lemons and nocino made from wallnuts. Last but not least, there is magnificent extra-vergin oil, made from the fruit of centuries-old olive trees in both ancient and modern olive mills.
In the field of hand-crafts, the women of Aspromonte still make time for weaving, and create sheets, kitchen towels and table-cloths. They pay particular attention to the artistic decoration of blankets and carpets, known as pezzare, which are typical of the area around Samo. Lively multicoloured decorations which strongly recalls the Byzantine style are to be found especially in the town of Gerace, where fine laces are produced. In fact, weaving using a variety of threads, including linen, hemp, silk, wool and broom is a strong tradition.
Woodcraft is also common in the Grecanic Area, where it is linked to the rural economy of the mountain shepherds who, while watching their flocks, make elaborate moulds for sweets, spoons, forks and walking staffs, now as in the past. Tobacco pipes are also crafted out of Calabrian heather. The pipes are ‘seasoned’ for up to 10 years.
In Gerace (on the Ionic coast) and Seminara (on the Plain of Gioia Tauro) there is a noteworthy production of ceramics, including Greek and Roman style amphoras, and characteristic anthropomorphic bottles, considered to be good-luck charms…