Will digital fashion weeks continue after the pandemic?
It has been more than 15 months since the London and Paris Menswear Weeks were first canceled due to COVID-19 and the resulting lockdown measures. Since then, weve seen a series of digital fashion shows, as landmark events  from Rafs first Prada show to Louis Vuittons collaboration with Nike  have emerged through one screen. Nowadays, however, the catwalks are starting to return: London Fashion Week featured socially distanced catwalks, while Kim Jones presented the Diors collection with Travis Scott to a live audience. As the worlds fashion capitals begin to open up and major events tentatively return, we sat down with three experts to discuss the future of fashion week and the likelihood of the virtual format surviving. There is a desire for physical performances that is widespread and understandable. The digital broadcast is far too cold. Joe Brunner, Menswear Buyer at Browns: I think it will, especially for next-gen brands, because it gave them a seat at the table, allowing them to be part of the conversation whether or not they got financial backing. It has provided a platform for talent at all levels and supported those who need it, whether they ask for it or not. Angelo Flaccavento, reviewer: I think when things open up well see more physical shows than digital. But some designers will definitely stick with the formula because it is very practical. There is a widespread and understandable desire for physical performances. The digital broadcast is way too cold. Damien Paul, responsible for mens fashion at Matchesfashion: I think were going to see a mixed format evolve. Some brands are clearly keen on presenting physical shows, but there will be a forward-thinking approach to shows as brands continue to evolve with designers pushing their creative limits and thinking of alternative ways to show their collections and them. experiences they create. Brunner: Sunni version of fashion Sims, because it was fun, and also quite comical in the way the avatars move. I also thought Balenciagas FW21 AfterWorld was fantastic. This is definitely not the first time someone has used video game style graphics, although it is certainly the most immersive, as you can play the game on their website. Richard quinnThe most recent video was insane: the production alone was out of this world, because he basically made a feature film. The cinematography of Pradas last two digital shows was certainly one of the best shoots Ive seen in quite some time and seeing the institution that is Miuccia Prada sit down to answer questions was a rare and beautiful site. Finally, I recommend to anyone who is not listening to previous years Helsinki Fashion Week take a look, because theyve bridged a gap between designers and tech companies. Flaccavento: I think the digital show is much more effective than the fashion film. Zegna has created her own distinctive language which is a fusion of spectacle and film that I find extremely original. Other very effective digital shows have been Pradas because of the sharpness, definition and the ability to show the details of the clothes. Paul: Manifesto! The continued collaboration between Marni and a community of creatives really shows the power of digital evolution. Its really amazing that this has created a whole new way of working for the brand. Also, Prada AW21. It was Raf Simons debut as co-creative director and the exhibition space designed by Rem Koolhaas was like stepping into the invitation  it was a visual feast! The post-show Q&A was also a fantastic way to make the usually publisher-exclusive moment accessible to everyone. Brunner: To change the format of the standard catwalk when we attend shows as they are allotted one hour, but end in 10-20 minutes. If the last year has taught us anything, its that we should have fun and put on a show, if the budget allows, because I think the catwalks have lost the performative element that they had before. Flaccavento: The best thing about digital fashion is that you can really see the details up close, which is what we all aspire to. There isnt much else we can learn from the video to show. Paul: When a designer creates an immersive digital experience accessible to everyone, they are opening the world of shows to a much larger and more inclusive audience, rather than just industry insiders in attendance at physical shows. Brunner: There is added pressure to ensure the content is engaging and some of the digital experiences have fallen flat, from video content to collections. It can be difficult to bring clothes to life through a lens, but with online shopping, it is the way a large number of customers buy their clothes, without physically seeing them first. From a practical standpoint, nothing beats physical shows where you can see clothes worn in person, how they hang, how they move, and their proportions, some of which are difficult to gauge on video. Flaccavento: What these digital shows lacked was a sense of living and seeing things on a real scale. We have mostly seen them on computers or smartphones, with so few images. We also missed the actual movement of clothing on a body seen live in a room. Paul: I think theres an intangible vibe that you dont really get with digital shows. You cant make sure you have enough time to figure it all out while viewing it digitally, whereas when you physically attend a show, the whole day is set aside just for the occasion. Being able to enjoy the experience as a team and debrief together after the show is certainly missing when viewing virtual presentations as well. When a designer creates an immersive digital experience accessible to all, he opens the world of shows to a much larger and more inclusive audience. Brunner: I certainly believe there will be a mix of digital and physical, which I think we should embrace and keep pushing forward. Personally, I would like to see shows become more performance oriented. Flaccavento: I think the parade remains a privileged way to present fashion. I dont have a crystal ball to predict its future but I think it will remain relevant. Paul: I think there will be lessons learned from both physical and digital broadcasts, resulting in a refined experience with a strong physical focus while being expertly supported by a digital format.