Is there a place in sustainable fashion for synthetic fabrics?
As brands make increasingly ambitious commitments to reduce their environmental impacts, from organic sourcing to climate positivity, they are neglecting plastic, experts say. Synthetic fibers, in addition to releasing microplastics into the environment and often using toxic chemicals in their production, depend on the continued extraction of oil and natural gas at a time when researchers say the world must move away from all fossil fuels. Recycled polyester has become popular as a more sustainable choice, which critics say compounds the problem as it enshrines the continuing role of synthetics in future fashion and allows the industry to continue to operate as usual. There is a significant debate about the best long-term solutions for synthetic garments that already exist, and the ideal mix of materials that should evolve. Brands retort that synthetics are necessary for the performance of clothing. But experts say synthetics pose problems for the planet that the industry cant solve, especially if it doesnt first recognize their existence, ubiquity and seriousness. They are not willing to change their bad habits, so they are trying to get out of this crisis with greenwashing, says Urska Trunk, campaign manager at the Changing Markets Foundation. This dependence on synthetic fibers essentially perpetuates the industrys dependence on fossil fuel extraction amid the climate crisis. It will inevitably get worse as no brand has made a clear commitment to phasing out its reliance on fossil fuel-based fashion. Performance versus pollution The idea that synthetics should be phased out completely is not what everyone agrees on. Matt Dwyer, vice president of product impact and innovation at Patagonias, agrees that there is a lot of greenwashing in fashion and that recycled polyester is not a perfect solution. Still, he argues that synthetics have a role to play in clothing, and outerwear in particular, because of the performance benefits they offer. We need synthetic textiles in our technical clothing. We just do, he said. They work well, theres a reason we werent using cotton for everything. Performance brands, in particular, have been recognized for their use of synthetics, including Nike, Lululemon, and Patagonia. Nike did not respond to a request for comment. Lululemon issued a statement: We are focused on creating a garment industry that is sustainable and addresses the serious implications of climate change, including a rapid transition to renewables and energy efficiency, he said. said, adding that its impact program will minimize environmental impact and manufacture 100% of our products with more sustainable materials and end-of-use solutions towards a circular ecosystem by 2030. 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