Is there space in sustainable fashion for synthetic fabrics?
While brands are pledging increasingly ambitious commitments to reduce their environmental impacts, from organic sourcing to climate positivity, they are overlooking plastic, say experts. Synthetic fibres, in addition to releasing microplastics into the environment and often using toxic chemicals in their production, rely on continued oil and natural gas extraction at a time when researchers say that the world needs to move away from all fossil fuels. Recycled polyester has become popular as a more sustainable choice, which critics say exacerbates the problem because it enshrines the continued role of synthetics in fashions future and enables the industry to otherwise continue operating business as usual. Theres significant debate over what the best long-term solutions are for the synthetic clothing that already exists and what the ideal mix of materials should be moving forward. Brands counter that synthetics are necessary for apparel performance. But experts say synthetics pose problems for the planet that the industry cannot solve, especially if it doesnt acknowledge their existence, pervasiveness and severity first. Theyre not willing to change their dirty habits, so theyre trying to greenwash their way out of this crisis, says Urska Trunk, campaign manager at the Changing Markets Foundation. This reliance on synthetic fibres basically perpetuates the industrys dependence on fossil fuel extraction  and thats in the midst of the climate crisis. This will inevitably worsen because no brand has made a clear commitment to phase out their reliance on fossil fuel-based fashion.  Performance versus pollution  The idea that synthetics need to be eliminated entirely is not one everyone agrees on. Patagonias VP of product impact and innovation, Matt Dwyer, agrees that theres a lot of greenwashing in fashion and that recycled polyester is not a perfect solution. Still, he argues that synthetics have a role to play in apparel, and outdoor apparel in particular, because of the performance benefits they offer. We need synthetic textiles in our technical apparel. We just do, he says. They perform well  theres a reason were not using cotton for everything.  Performance brands, in particular, were recognised for their use of synthetics, including Nike, Lululemon and Patagonia. Nike did not respond to a request for comment. Lululemon issued a statement: We are focused on helping to create a garment industry that is sustainable and addresses the serious implications of climate change, including a rapid transition to renewable energy and energy efficiency, it said, adding that its Impact Agenda details a path to minimising environmental impact and making 100 per cent of our products with more sustainable materials and end-of-use solutions toward a circular ecosystem by 2030.