Why do fine-dining waiters monopolise the wine?
I often find Ive finished my meal but not the wine. I then have to go and look for it. J.W., Frenchs Forest, NSW  Illustration by Simon Letch. Credit:  Youre not the only one irritated by this practice. Its a quirk of modern, high-end restaurants that staff insist on pouring every glass from every bottle, perhaps because it gives them something to do and makes them feel important. But as you say, they rarely do it when you want it. Years ago, I was eating in a high-priced Sydney restaurant when our groups bottle of expensive, grand cru Alsace riesling was placed in an ice-bucket between our table and the neighbouring one. The following scenario unfolded: a different waiter picked up next-doors Jacobs Creek chardonnay, topped up our glasses with it and, in so doing, presented us with a multinational riesling/chardonnay shandy to savour. Theyd placed the bottle nearby  not at the far end of the room  but it didnt stop the disaster happening. Most exclusive eateries have an aversion to leaving a bottle on the table because they think it a) clutters the tabletop and b) looks uncouth when diners serve themselves. Sigh. But the upshot of placing it elsewhere is that if, like me, you enjoy more than a few bird-like sips of wine with your meal, you can spend the entire evening trying desperately to make eye contact with the staff.