"> You are in an endless loops of ""maybe""(s)...  No, my point was that **your** ""maybe"" puts **you** in an endless loop of ""maybe""s.  Please try to keep up.  > But the paranoia and ""end of the world"" folks do not impress me.  Me neither but that doesn't mean global warming is not going to bring a whole lot of expense and instability.  > With science we will be able to control the weather on earth easily. Easily!!!!  Ha!  You have no idea of the scale of the problem with weather and climate.  > You can't come with one ACTION by Trump you oppose, and you are still against him.  Now you're [moving the goalposts](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moving_the_goalposts).  You first wanted something President Trump ""did"" that I oppose and I gave you two examples.  Since you can't dismiss his positions you now claim I can't come up with ""one ACTION"".  Okay, fine.  Here are about a dozen *categories* of reasons I do not support President Trump.  I can come up with at least a dozen examples in each category:  * He is a liar. * He is unpresidential. * He is a narcissist. * He demonstrates his mental abilities are average at best. * He holds himself accountable for nothing yet is quick to blame people around him. * He is unprofessional, airing dirty laundry and not treating professionals with respect. * His White House makes intellectually dishonest if not straight up false claims. * His strength is in dividing people, not unifying them. * He is using the presidency to enrich his family, friends, and himself. * He has no understanding/appreciation of the checks and balances of government. * He is inept with foreign relations. * He is reactionary, acting off the cuff and revealing that he does not have long-term plans. * He has demonstrated he works for the rich, not the average American.  I should put ""He is a liar"" in bold because there are so many more categories I want to add that full under that umbrella.  You know it's bad when the news media has to ask, ""[What does he mean when he says words?](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwod2IONRwU)"""


Google Fiber won't make sense as a standalone business, as it can't become profitable in near future.  Google requires internet infrastructure for its core business, and monopolistic ISPs are reluctant to improve infrastructure. Google Fiber aims to provoke these monopolists by spreading awareness and direct threat of competition.  Google isn't concerned with lack of profits from Google Fiber, as its core business is profitable and they can easily afford side-projects like that.  That won't be true for a typical company: who can invest billions with only of small chance of seeing return on investment in next couple of decades?


"In the case of an ""initial public offering"", the brokers underwriting the share issue will look at the current earnings being generated by the company and compare these to those of other competitor companies already listed in the stock market.  For example, if a new telephone company is undertaking an initial public offering, then the share price of those telephone companies which are already traded on the stock market will serve as a reference for how much investors will be willing to pay for the new company's shares.  If investors are willing to pay 15 times earnings for telecom shares, then this will be the benchmark used in determining the new share price. In addition, comparative growth prospects will be taken into account.  Finally, the underwriter will want to see a successful sale, so they will tend to ""slightly under price"" the new shares in order to make them attractive. None of this is an exact science and we often see shares trading at a large premium to the initial offer price during the first few days of trading.  More often that not, prices then settle down to something closer to the offer price.  The initial price spike is usually the result of high demand for the shares by investors who believe that past examples of a price spike will repeat with this initial public offering.  There will also usually be high demand for the new shares from funds that specialise in shares of the type being issued. In the case of a ""rights issue"", where an existing publicly traded company wishes to raise capital by issuing new shares, the company will price the new shares at a significant discount to the current market price.  The new shares will be initially offered to existing shares holders and the discounted price is intended to encourage the existing shareholders to exercise their ""rights"" since the new shares may have the effect of diluting the value of their shares.  Any shares which are not purchased by existing share holder will then be offered for sale in the market."


Yes. So? Are you saying that OP was just unlucky because he didn't realize that forex wasn't covered under SIPC? I would agree with that, but then, had he read the terms and conditions and considerable paperwork that he was required to sign, he would've known.


Find out where the local executives hang out in your area and get a job wherever it is. IE Golf course, bar, country club, Gym etc. That's how I met the CEO of the bank I'm Interning for this summer.


For our company, we use Microsoft Enterprise E5 as it allows us to communicate easier, manage projects and information, assign tasks, etc.  As there's only 3 of us it works well but comes at a cost of £30 each per month.  As it sounds as though it's only you on your own you should check out Trello.  We were using Trello previously but communication between us wasn't great on there and it got too cluttered way too fast.  For setting personal goals and tasks it's perfect, especially as the basic account is free.


As a former banker, the title of the car will be assigned to the loan account holder(s) because legally, he/she/they are responsible for payments. I've never heard of any case where the car title differs from the loan account holder(s). Throughout my career in the bank, I've come across quite a number of parents who did the same for their children and the car title was always assigned to the loan account holder's name.    You do have a choice of applying for a joint loan with one of your parents unless if you are concerned about what your credit score might be.  Once the loan has been paid off, the title could be changed to your name from your parents of course. As for insurance, there are numerous options where the insurance would cover all drivers of the car however at a slightly higher price like you've mentioned.


What your are talking about is price controls.  The US of A has used price controls several times in the past.  -1942 there was a maximum wage you could pay workers.  So employers offered extra benefits such as medical and paid leave.  -1971 to 1973 the Nixon administration set the price of gas.  This helped cause an oil shortage. [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973_oil_crisis](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1973_oil_crisis)  -Today we see lots of price controls in the form of rent control.  Not allowing rent prices to go up doesn't give incentive to housing developers to build more housing.  The problem with prices controls is they don't tell consumers to stop consuming.  Say if there is a war and the military need all the metal it can get.  By allowing the price of cars and other metal products to go up in price.  The people will not buy as many cars and fix up what they have freeing up metal to be used on tanks. Also the metal producers will make more money from higher prices and re-invest their profits to make more metal for tanks and a very few expensive cars.  But if prices did not increase the people will buy cars like normal and the government will try to used up the metal on tanks.  The price of metal is the same so metal producers won't make much extra profit as such won't be able to re-invest in expanding their production.  The biggest example of price fixing was the Soviet Union.  But if we look just under the hood there was long lines and shortages all throughout the Soviet Union.  As Soviet planners tried to make prices correct for each product based on many number of variables such as man-hours and individuals’ needs.  But no mathematical equation seemed to work.  The Soviets gave up and used the prices out of the sears catalog for some products like shoes.  If you want to good read on the subject this is a really good article.  [https://www.libertarianism.org/blog/socialist-calculation-iii-value-capital-goods](https://www.libertarianism.org/blog/socialist-calculation-iii-value-capital-goods)


"Since when did food, clothing and shelter become ""Comfort"". All the training in the world is not going to help you if you are worried about you and your child's next meal.  We should be doing more for those on welfare.  The good news is that there is more and more hard data on what actually works.  The bad news, radical right wing politicians are not swayed by real data."


It is no easy task to select the best page to buy trailers, because you have no idea which side is trustworthy or not. Once you are satisfied or confirmed about the reliability of the successor supplier, the next step is to review the price packages they provide.  Buying Instagram Pendant is fairly easy if you are careful enough and if you can easily qualify or make the difference between the services provided by different websites on the internet. At Followres24Hour.com we proudly announce the most appropriate and authenticated services to its customers. We facilitate all types of users, owners of large empire companies as well as individual account holders of Instagram who want to gain publicity and fan after buying actively active supporters of Instagram.


I have been following some of these threads. Some of them are really old. I have read used recording to equity accounts to resolve the imbalance USD issue. The thing I noticed is that all my imbalances occur when paying bills. I took all the bills and set them up as vendor accounts, entered the bills in the new bills, and used the process payment when paying bills. The imbalance issue stopped. It makes sense. The system is a double entry. That's it will credit and debit. Assets accounts are increased with a debit and decreased with a credit. Equity accounts are increased with a credit and decreased with a debit. ie; Say you have an monthly insurance bill for $100. You enter it into the new vendor bill. This credits Accounts Payable. When paying the bill it credits checking, debits account payable, credits vendor account, debits the expense insurance. In short for each credit there has to be a debit for the books to balance. When there is no account for it to record to it will record in Imbalance USD to balance the books.


"I think you may have a significant misunderstanding here.  You have been renting your property out for two years, now.  There is no special ""roommate"" clause in the tax code; roommates are renters, and the rent they pay is rental income.  (If they were roommates in a property you both rented from a third party, that would be different.) See publication 527, chapter 4 for more details on the subject (search on ""Renting Part of Property"").  You should be: You may also consider ""Not renting for profit"" section, which may be closer to what you're actually thinking - of changing from ""Renting not for profit"" to ""Renting for profit"".  Not rented for profit means you can report on your 1040 as opposed to filing Schedule E, but it does mean you have to actually not make a profit (and remember, some of the money that goes to paying the mortgage is not deductible on this side of things since it's your property and you'll get that money back, presumably, when you sell it). If that is what you're asking about, it sounds like it's just a matter of money.  Are you going to start making money?  Or, are you going to start making enough significant upgrades/etc. to justify the tax deduction?  You should consider the actual, specific numbers carefully, probably with the help of a CPA who is familiar with this sort of situation, and then make the decision that gives you the best outcome (keeping in mind that there may be long-term impacts of switching from not-for-profit to for-profit rental treatment)."


Each of us makes our own way in life, making choices based upon or own needs and desires. Some of us choose to live simple lives, others choose more complex lives where we earn and spend more. There are several points which one should examine and consider. Consider that the market for new cars is not the entire population, but only the fraction of the population that can afford to spend $20,000+ for a new car (at $400+/month payments). You quickly realize that most people making below median income cannot afford to purchase a new car. They buy used cars, from the pool of cars left after depreciation has reduced the price of the car by half (or more). One rule of thumb might be to spend < 10% of your income on transportation. Which might allow for a $400-500/month car payment for half of families. And when you keep a car for 10 years, that can mean two cars, one payment-free. Consider that a new Honda Accord or Toyota Camry is $20-30,000 which is 2/3 to 3/4 the price of a new luxury car. When I purchased my (used) Civic several years ago, the price was nearly 1/2 the price of a new luxury car. I recently purchased a (used) luxury car (7 year old, 70,000 miles) less than 1/3 the new price. The leather interior looks new, more amenities, better performance than my Civic, the car runs well, and with proper maintenance, I expect to drive it for 2-3 years and pass it along to one of my children.


"I'm 39 and have been investing since my very early 20's, and the advice I'd like to go back and give myself is the following: 1) Time is your friend. Compounding interest is a powerful force and is probably the most important factor to how much money you are going to wind up with in the end. Save as much as you possibly can as early as you can. You have to run twice as hard to catch up if you start late, and you will still probably wind up with less in the end for the extra effort. 2) Don't invest 100% of your investment money It always bugged me to let my cash sit idle in an investment account because the niggling  notion of inflation eating up my money and I felt I was wasting opportunity cost by not being fully invested in something. However, not having enough investable cash around to buy into the fire-sale dips in the market made me miss out on opportunities. 3) Diversify The dot.com bubble taught me this in a big, hairy painful way. I had this idea that as a technologist I really understood the tech bubble and fearlessly over-invested in Tech stocks. I just knew that I was on top of things as an ""industry insider"" and would know when to jump. Yeah. That didn't work out so well. I lost more than 6 figures, at least on paper. Diversification will attenuate the ups and downs somewhat and make the market a lot less scary in the long run. 4) Mind your expenses It took me years of paying huge full-service broker fees to realize that those clowns don't seem to do any better than anyone else at picking stocks. Even when they do, the transaction costs are a lead weight on your returns. The same holds true for mutual funds/ETFs. Shop for low expense ratios aggressively. It is really hard for a fund manager to consistently beat the indexes especially when you burden the returns with expense ratios that skim an extra 1% or so off the top. The expense ratio/broker fees are among the very few things that you can predict reliably when it comes to investments, take advantage of this knowledge. 5) Have an exit strategy for every investment People are emotional creatures. It is hard to be logical when you have skin in the game and most people aren't disciplined enough to just admit when they have a loser and bail out while they are in the red or conversely admit when they have a winner and take profits before the party is over. It helps to counteract this instinct to have an exit strategy for each investment you buy. That is, you will get out if it drops by x% or grows by y%. In fact, it is probably a good idea to just enter those sell limit orders right after you buy the investment so you don't have to convince yourself to press the eject button in the heat of a big move in the price of that investment. Don't try to predict tops or bottoms. They are extremely hard to guess and things often turn so fast that you can't act on them in time anyway. Get out of an investment when it has met your goal or is going to far in the wrong direction. If you find yourself saying ""It has to come back eventually"", slap yourself.  When you are trying to decide whether to stay in the investment or bail, the most important question is ""If I had the current cash value of the stock instead of shares, would I buy it today?"" because essentially that is what you are doing when you stick with an investment. 6) Don't invest in fads When you are investing you become acutely sensitive to everyone's opinions on what investment is hot and what is not. If everyone is talking about a particular investment, avoid it. The more enthusiastic people are about it (even experts) the MORE you should avoid it. When everyone starts forming investment clubs at work and the stock market seems to be the preferred topic of conversation at every party you go to. Get out!  I'm a big fan of contrarian investing. Take profits when it feels like all the momentum is going into the market, and buy in when everyone seems to be running for the doors."


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>Also, I don't know if we should actually Invest in the market or just discuss and learn about the finance market in general.  Since you're in highschool I would say that discussing and learning about it is more than enough.  Some other things you can cover are budgeting, compounding interest, retirement accounts and advantages of them, credit scores, and credit in general.  >What are some good ways to attract people to join the club  Advertise it and provide informative handouts that explain what will be discussed and taught.  Maybe get a math teacher involved to help explain certain things.


"Most likely scenario (A): You spend tons of time and effort talking to them, with the end result that they take away the extra points.  You feel screwed having to do their job for them - they've given you no benefit for looking out for them, and you're left with the points you've earned but maybe less desire to go back and use them. Most likely scenario (B): You just use the points, they eventually figure out the problem and fix it.  They send you a nasty letter, demanding some sort of compensation that they have no legal obligation to (because points are not money, you will have rendered existing points for service, and they have, per your existing phone call which can be substantiated in existence though not content through phone records, confirmed that they are yours) - they may go so far as to bar you from their premises.  If you don't use enough points to go ""negative"" before they fix it, you may avoid this. If they can deal with this competently from a customer service/PR standpoint, then in scenario (A) they may understand you quickly, and they may leave you with some extra points for your trouble.  In scenario (B), pretty much the same thing - they'll let you have the points you used and even leave you a little extra. I suggest in either case you only engage in written communication with them or, if your jurisdiction allows it, record voice conversations.  You need a record of what you've been told."


"Uh, have you tried google docs? Start off simple. Other than that, for the moment I use GNUCash. Some day I might try to write my own, but for now it works well enough. I have a number of scheduled transactions in GNUCash, and it records them days in advance. You talk about ""I should have how much money"", but GNUCash offers a slightly better format: Future Minimum Balance. If you want to know whether you can spend money in an account without triggering a chain reaction, that's the number you want. Being web-based so that it can be accessed from any OS. GNUCash is cross platform, with Windows, OSX and Linux clients. It also supports mysql/postgres database backends, so while it's not ""Web based"", you can keep your data ""in the cloud""."


"It'll be just like any other loan you make, on your end, and receive, on your LLC's end. You pay taxes on the interest received, and your LLC can deduct the interest paid.    Do make sure you set it up properly, however:  If you want to loan money to your business, you should have your   attorney draw up paperwork to define the terms of the loan, including   repayment and consequences for non-repayment of the loan. It should be   clear that the loan is a binding obligation on the part of the   company. As a recent Tax Court case notes, the absence of such   paperwork negates the loan. For tax purposes, the loan is an ""arms   length"" transaction, being treated like any other debt.   From: http://biztaxlaw.about.com/od/financingyourstartup/f/investinbusiness.htm"


"No, getting a liberal arts degree at a non-prestigious university is worthless. You can graduate from an Ivy League school or LAC equivalent with a degree in history/philosophy/English/etc. and go work on Wall Street or in MBB consulting.   There very few fields where you have to be able to step in day 1 and have great technical knowledge. Mostly your degree and school are about signalling* that you can learn what's thrown at you.   EDIT: ""Signalling"" and typos I couldn't correct on my phone."


This. I'd ask around a bit to find out if more people miss the bowling alley, see if there is interest for a 'reboot'. Also, at the very least you should talk to the current owners about how it is going, what's happening etc. to put some feelers out without expressing direct interest. Maybe they have racked up a hefty debt, who knows. Scope it out a bit.  Be wary of looking at it from a sentimental point of view. You had a great time there, you're not guaranteed to have that again, even with you running it. Running it and visiting it are way different.  You will probably have to do a lot of marketing/publicity stuff for it, so plan accordingly. And what 9ersaur said, you probably need capital, especially if the business has been stagnant. If they serve food, the kitchen may not be up to standards anymore, etc.  If after that you still want to do it, and have a plan, then definitely opt for buying them out directly or over time. You probably do not want the previous owners' emotional attachments getting in the way. (cue gordon ramsay's restaurant makeovers) That said, they may just like what you want to do and support you all the way, who knows.  Good luck!


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To store $1 milion in a bank with full FDIC insurance currently requires 4 separate bank accounts, each at 250k.  It's not that difficult, particularly if you are married and your spouse can have 2 in his/her name.  (This is dependent on the FDIC limit; they raised it to 250k after the 2008 crash).


"wrong! people create ""money"" by lending it to the banks....  Banks are effectivly just exchanges between depositors and lenders, i.e. an IOU exchange.  When you deposit $1000, you LOAN the bank $1000. AND the normal way you deposit $1000, is by an IOU of $1000 by someone else like your employer, NOT by showing up in the bank with cash.  (NB: checks are IOUs)  The issuing/central bank do occationally create money, if the normal banks have more customers wanting to borrow than lend. However, that source of money may be raised by the central bank issuing bonds rather than new money."


You should never take advice from someone else in relation to a question like this. Who would you blame if things go wrong and you lose money or make less than your savings account. For this reason I will give you the same answer I gave to one of your previous similar questions: If you want higher returns you may have to take on more risk. From lowest returns (and usually lower risk) to higher returns (and usually higher risk), Bank savings accounts, term deposits, on-line savings accounts, offset accounts (if you have a mortgage), fixed interest eg. Bonds, property and stock markets.  If you want potentially higher returns then you can go for derivatives like options or CFDs, FX or Futures. These usually have higher risks again but as with any investments some risks can be partly managed. What ever you decide to do, get yourself educated first. Don't put any money down unless you know what your potential risks are and have a risk management strategy in place, especially if it is from advice provided by someone else. The first rule before starting any new investment is to understand what your potential risks are and have a plane to manage and reduce those risks.


When stocks have a change in price it is because of a TRADE. To have a trade you have to have both a buyer and a seller.  When the price of a security is going up there are an equal amount of shares being sold as being bought. When the price of a security is going down there are an equal amount of shares being bought as being sold.  There almost always is an unequal amount of shares waiting to be sold compared to the amount waiting to be bought. But waiting shares do not move the price, only when the purchase price and the sale price agree, and a trade occurs, does the price move.  So the price does not go down because more shares are being sold. Neither does the price go up because more shares are being bought.


Frederic Mishkin wrote a few text books on financial concepts that are widely used in colleges.  If you're not looking for a textbook - I'd really recommend Khan Academy on YouTube.  He's got some great videos on supply and demand - bonds, exchange rates - monetary policy by the federal reserve. All academically sound. They're very easy to digest and watch over again for reference.


Keep in mind that by fully paying off one of your loans, you will reduce your minimum repayments. This will make you feel richer than you actually are. This will make you buy stuff that it seems like you can afford, probably putting some of it on credit. As you can't actually afford this, this will leave you, in a years time, with the same amount of debt you have now or more, but with a slightly bigger tv. Assuming your home loan has no penalties for paying off extra, then put all 11k into there to keep your monthly repayments as high as possible.


So, you're saying that if amazon hadn't patented & defended it's ludicrous one-click 'technology', it would be dead, or even in grave peril of dying. Clearly I underestimated one click.   I realise it's dangerous to try and paraphrase someone, especially when their example is as colourful as yours is, but I want to make sure I understand what you're saying.


Because you are new to forex trading, you would be wise to trade long-term and not short-term. For example, watch the Daily and Weekly charts for trends, not the 15 Minute and 1 Hour.  Doing this, there is little concern for the best time of day. You will ideally have trades setup many days in advance, just waiting for them to be triggered. It doesn't really matter if you're present or not.


You cannot just transfer or rollover from a traditional to a Roth IRA, because they are taxed differently.  You'd have to do a distribution from your traditional (which will be taxed and possibly penalized, depending on your income and age), and a contribution to your Roth (which is limited based on annual contributions to all your IRAs). A conversion is not limited by dollar amount (unless you must take an RMD... required distributions may not be converted).  There is no income limit for 2010 and beyond (previously $100k MAGI), and there are no penalties.  However, all you must pay tax on all untaxed dollars - this means the original contributions as well as the growth. It all depends on the size of your IRA, your investment options, and your expected tax bracket at retirement.  Traditional IRA distributions are considered income for the year, while Roth distributions are not.


I don't get the whole quants/hedge funds don't contribute anything to society thing. At the end of the day, they earn a return for the fund which is usually mostly pension fund or mutual fund money which funds peoples' pensions/insurance/retirement/etc. If there wasn't a demand or use for it it wouldn't be there. How much these fund charge and pay their employees is another matter...


"One is a choice the other is not. While they are both liabilities on the balance sheet, in the real world they are quite different.   We do not feel as much ownership over our money that goes to interest payments as we do over our tax payments.  Taxes pay for our government and the services it provides.  Interest, on the other hand, is what we pay in order to have a bank loan us money.  Similar to paying for a good or service obtained from some other business, we do not feel we have a say in what the bank does with that money.  If we disapprove of a business' practices, we stop doing business with them; assuming there are other choices.  We can not practically avoid dealing with our government.   We certainly feel that we should have a say in what is done with our tax money.  I doubt there is anyone in the world that completely approves of their government's spending.  It is very easy to feel marginalized with regard to our tax payments.  For example, some people feel resentment because their taxes fund the welfare rolls. All that said, I believe there is little overlap between the two groups.  It seems to me that you are referring to those with large amounts of high interest (e.g. credit card) debt.  I doubt that a large percentage of them are scouring the tax laws, looking for deductions and loopholes.  If they had that mindset, they would also be working hard to get out of the hole they are in.   In summary, we choose to pay a financial adviser, to take out a loan or to obtain a credit card.  We do not choose to pay taxes.  Since taxes are supposed to pay for our government and things which should benefit everyone, we want a say in what is done with it.  This is also the case because it is forced on us.  (""Fine son, I'll lend you some money, but I don't want you buying cigarettes with it."")  Since our say is limited and we likely will not approve of everything our government does, we want to exert what control we do have: reduce our payments as best we can."


Strange that they're holding you personally legally liable rather than the company. That's normally a big part of the corporate veil. You need a lawyer, not a stackexchange.


Buy low, sell high - the problem, of course, finding a crystal ball that will tell you when the highs and lows are going to happen :-) You could, for instance, save your money in cash and wait for the occasional sharp drop, but then you've lost profits & dividends from having that cash under the mattress all those years you were waiting. About the closest I've ever gotten to market timing, and I think the closest anyone can get in real life, is that I cut personal spending to the bone from 2008 to 2011, and invested every spare cent.  But such opportunities only come along a few times in a lifetime. The other thing is to avoid what a lot of people do, which you might call anti-timing.  When the market is high, they jump on the bandwagon, then when it drops they panic-sell, and lose money.


"There is no good proxy for VIX, because it is a completely made-up value. Most listed options trade on an underlying security.  I can therefore choose to buy either the stock, or a future or option on that stock.  In this way, the future and option are derivatives in that they derive their value (in part) based on something else, in this case the stock price as of now. VIX is a different entity altogether.  It is based on the volatility of the market, using ""market expectation of near term volatility conveyed by stock index option prices"".  But the FAQ goes on to state that they are adding factors into the formula. So right away there is no one equity/stock that you can hold that will necessarily match the VIX in any significant way, because it is not directly based on stocks, but indirectly through other options and computations. In effect, therefore, the VIX in indeed only available through its options, and is not observable (tradable) in and of itself."


Lowering of the US credit rating would affect all US bonds.  Some institutional investments are required to invest in securities with a certain credit rating (i.e. money markets and some low risk mutual funds).  If the credit rating is lowered these institutions would be required to dump their US bond holdings.  This could have a serious affect on bond prices.  The lower bond prices would drive up yields. If the US credit rating was lowered after you purchased TIPS then the price you could sell your TIPS for would most probably be lower then what you bought them.  You would lose money. All US bonds, including TIPS, would be affected by a lower credit rating since the credit rating is suppose to indicate the borrower's ability to repay the debt.  This is independent of inflation.  TIPS provide no additional benefit over regular bonds in regard to credit rating.


Are there any local charities that could fund the work, and thus take Gift-Aided donations for it? Depending on the details, a School PTA or the Parish Church could justify sponsoring some improvements to the local park as part of their remit. You then give donations to them and they claim the Gift Aid and pay for the improvements with the total. Setting up a whole new charity is the other option, but unless the improvements are very expensive, that feels like overkill.


Taking a slightly different approach, I would have the following priorities: I'm not sure it's worth the hassle to renogotiate either the HELOC or the mortgage if you think you are only going to have them for a year. If you can renegotiate the HELOC with the same lender that might be worth it.


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"> the Soviet union was as capitalist as any other country  According to the Marxists, capitalism is the ""private ownership of the means of production"". In order for ""private ownership"" of *anything* to exist, one must by definition have the right to ""private property"" ownership, or ""property rights"". I would therefore argue from definition that the only metric to measure the degree a state can be said to be capitalist is to examine the degree by which it respects private property rights.  The Soviet Union historically had low respect for property rights, and any system of authoritarianism definitionally has low respect for property rights. One cannot claim the Soviet Union was capitalist as any other country unless you can claim it respected private property rights to the same degree as every other country."


Sounds like Yelp is promoting businesses that pay the highest dollar to get the best results. Filtering positive reviews for people with just one review is understandable (self reviews) but that's NOT what I'm seeing. My site, topfiveawards.com will go local eventually and I won't let it go to the highest bidder. Fuck that.


It's probably the single best indicator of what a country's power is.  Certainly economically and a great correlation of military (either directly or through treaties.)    Nukes would be the great equalizer, but not many countries would actually go that route.


"Its best to check with your company what details they need. Generally for SWIFT Transfers, the below is sufficient;   Additionally any transfers to India require a ""Purpose of Remittance"" to be filled by the company paying to money."


Make sure you shop around and ask a lot of places for a good faith estimate.  Last I knew, the good faith document is the same everywhere and long form that makes it easy enough to compare the hard numbers from place to place.  I have gotten several estimates for various scenarios and I have had them hand written and printed.  (I discounted the hand written ones because that broker seemed pretty disorganized in general) Learn the terms online, and start comparing.  Use the good faiths as a negotiation tool to get lower rates or lower costs from other brokers.  See how accurate the person is at listening to you and filling out the paperwork.  See how responsive they are to you when you call with questions and want some changes. Check with at least four places. The more places you shop, the better idea you will have of what fees are high and what interest rates are low.  I might pay a higher fee to get a lower interest rate, so there are lots of trade offs to consider.


It depends on your situation. For families with small amounts over the FDIC limit, there's account structures that let you get multiple coverages. Things like holding 100k in an account in joint with your wife, each of you holding 100k in individual accounts etc. For larger sums and institutions, there's CDARS. This system spreads your money out to multiple institutions with an eye to FDIC insurance limits. Some people feel this system is abusing FDIC, so I suppose it's possible it gets outlawed / shut down some day. Alternatively, you can just invest it yourself. Treasury Direct allows small buyers to buy US govt bonds at finished auction rates, or submit a qualified bid at auction. You won't get great rates, but Treasuries are about as good as dollars.


"Bottom line is this: there's no ""short term capital gains tax"" in the US. There's only long term capital gains tax, which is lower than the regular (aka ordinary) tax rates. Short term capital gains are taxed using the ordinary tax rates, depending on your bracket. So if you're in the 25% bracket - your short term gains are taxed at 25%. You're describing two options: For the case #1 you'll pay 25% tax (your marginal rate) + 10% penalty (flat rate), total 35%. For the case #2 you'll pay 25% tax (your marginal rate) + 0% penalty. Total 25%. Thus, by withdrawing from IRA you'll be 10% worse than by realizing capital gains. In addition, if you need $10K - taking it from IRA will make the whole amount taxable. While realizing capital gains from a taxable account will make only the gains taxable, the original investment amount is yours and had been taxed before. So not only there's a 10% difference in the tax rate, there's also a significant difference in the amount being taxed. Thus, withdrawing from IRA is generally not a good idea, and you will never be better off with withdrawing from IRA than with cashing out taxable investments (from tax perspective). That's by design."


The difference in interest is not a huge factor in your decision.  It's about $2 per month.   Personally I would go ahead and knock one out since it's one less to worry about.  Then I would cancel the account and cut that card up so you are not tempted to use it again. To address the comments... Cutting up the card is NOT the ultimate solution.  The solution is to stop borrowing money... Get on a strict budget, live on less than what you bring home, and throw everything you can at this high-interest debt.   The destroying of the card is partly symbolic - it's a gesture to indicate that you're not going to use credit cards at all, or at least until they can be used responsibly, not paying a DIME of interest.  It's analogous to a recovering alcoholic pouring out bottles of booze.  Sure you can easily get more, but it's a commitment to changing your attitude and behavior. Yes leaving the card open will reduce utilization and improve (or not hurt) credit score - but if the goal is to stop borrowing money and pay off the other card, then once that is achieved, your credit score will be significantly improved, and the cancelling of the first card will not matter.  The card (really both cards) should never, ever be used again.


Depends on the exchange, and it's usually not going to be free. I use IB's API, and I've heard good things about IQFeed. You can get some free book data from Bats, but again you probably won't see your own transactions go by. http://batstrading.com/market_data/


Just pay it, its not alot and it will clear up your credit report.


What is your risk tolerance?  Personally I invest about $5k in digital currency as an experiment. A lot of people told me I am stupid, which I agree at some point. I plan to let the money sit for 5~10 years. I can tell you there is a lot of emotion in the digital currency though.


"HFTs, that serve no purpose other than to make themselves money, pay a premium to the enthusiastically complicit exchanges for the privilege of scalping those that do not. Their profits are not the result  of any ""growth"" or ""service rendered"". Their profits are the result of a completely unnecessary tax on the system that amounts to theft out of the pockets of regular investors. Which part did I get wrong?  I'm just a guy with a considerable portion of my retirement in an employer 401k, who's not thrilled about losing *any* compounding interest to these parasites. I'm not shilling for anybody. On the other hand, one has to wonder what has guys like you so upset about IEX."


"Rather than attacking someone's background, how about critiquing his analysis of the data, charts, and sources he is presenting. The author, Charles Hugh Smith, is also in CNBC's Top 10 alternative finance sites.  After *all*, you don't see me calling you out for your past, just because you posted recently asking about the ""female equivalent of a neckbeard"". I'm just asking you to critique his analysis *rather than resort to ad hominem*."


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A Breakdown of Stock Buy Backs has this bottom line on it: Are share buybacks good or bad? As is so often the case in finance, the question may not have a definitive answer. If a stock is undervalued and a buyback truly represents the best possible investment for a company, the buyback - and its effects - can be viewed as a positive sign for shareholders. Watch out, however, if a company is merely using buybacks to prop up ratios, provide short-term relief to an ailing stock price or to get out from under excessive dilution. Read more: http://www.investopedia.com/articles/02/041702.asp#ixzz3ZHdOf2dJ What is the reason that a company like AAPL is buying back its own   shares?  Offsetting dilution would be my main thought here as many employees may exercise options putting more stock out there that the company buys back stock to balance things. Does it have too much cash and it doesn't know what to do with it?  No as it could do dividends if it wanted to give it back to investors. So it is returning the cash back to investors? Not quite. While some investors may get cash from Apple, I'd suspect most shareholders aren't likely to see cash unless they are selling their shares so I wouldn't say yes to this without qualification. At the same time, the treasury shares Apple has can be used to give options to employees or be used in acquisitions for a couple of other purposes.


If you receive dividends on an investment, those are taxed.


All other agencies is complete hyperbole. The WHO didn't take into account one unpublished, not yet peer reviewed study and that means Round-up is totally safe?  I mean, the first paragraph admits there is conflicting information and links to another story they did that casts doubt on the claim that Round-up doesn't cause cancer.  Are you aware of what confirmation bias is?


No.  Mark-to-market valuation relies on using a competitive market of public traders to determine the share price --- from free-market trading among independent traders who are not also insiders.   Any professional valuation would see through the promotional nature of the share offer. It is pretty obvious that the purchaser of a share could not turn around and sell their share for $10, unless the 'free hosting' that is worth most of the $10 follows it... and that's more of hybrid of stock and bond than pure stock.  It is also pretty obvious that selling a few shares for $10 does not mean one could sell 10,000,000 shares for $10, because of the well known decreasing marginal value effect from economics. While this question seems hypothetical, as a practical matter offering to sell share of unregistered securities in a startup for $10 to the general public,  is likely to run afoul of state or federal securities laws -- irregardless of the honesty of the business or any included promotional offers.   See http://www.sec.gov/info/smallbus/qasbsec.htm for more information about the SEC regulations for raising capital for small businesses.


I would take a closer look at each provider. I have one credit-card provider who when there is a large portion of credit available, they frequently offer promotions on balance transfers so you fill that credit, sometimes it can be 0% for xx months, or a very low % until paid off in full. If this is the case clear that card fully and balance transfer the remainder to get an even lower interest to make the repayments eaier to clear.


Amazon is much more screwed up than you think. They lose entire pallets of goods in their warehouse and auction them off all the time ( bulq) sometimes if you are lucky they will compensate you for them. EVERY Box on a pallet has an amazon label on it which shows the box number, shipment name, sku and qantity yet Amazon will randomly relabel items without consent or notification and Bo way to stop it.  How do I know then?  I ask customers for photos of the goods they are having issues with that clearly show Amazon's label over our label.  If our label and photo show 100 count blue and Amazon relabel it 50 count yellow.  Seller Support is completely useless to assist in this.


Gas tax doesn't go to trains, buses or other transportation. Gas tax doesn't even cover federal highways. It *should* go to these things, but the reality is that gas tax is lower than highway spending. All alternative transportation options are being paid for with income tax.  So no, none of the gas tax goes to reduce emissions.


That's because *healthcare* is in a spiral. If insurance is paying 0.28 cents on the dollar average for care, any sane doctor is going to raise rates which in a grasp for more profits will cause insurance premiums to rise.  You shouldn't be insuring something subjective like quality of life. It's dumb. Insurance should be based on binary states, and healthy/unhealthy just isn't an actual set of binary states.


If you even qualify for a no-down payment USDA loan, which I'm not sure you would. It would be extremely risky to take on a $250K house loan and have near-zero equity in the house for a good while. If property values drop at all you are going to be stuck in that house which likely has a pretty high monthly payment, insurance, taxes, HOA fees, maintenance costs, etc.  My rule of thumb is that if you can't come up with a down payment, then you can't afford the house. Especially with that much debt hanging over your head already. If one major thing goes wrong with the house (roof, A/C, electrical, etc.) you are going to put yourself in a world of hurt with no clear path out of that financial trap. My suggestion: Keep renting until you have enough money for a downpayment, even if this means downsizing your price range for houses you are considering.


"I think it's worth pointing out explicitly that the biggest difference between a credit card (US/Canada) and a debit card (like your French carte de crédit) is that with a credit card, it's entirely possible to not pay the bill or to pay only the ""minimum payment"" when asked. This results in you owing significantly more money due to interest, which can snowball into higher and higher levels of debt, and end up getting rapidly out of control. This is the reason why you should ALWAYS pay off the ENTIRE balance every month, as attested to in the other answers; it's not uncommon to find people in the US with thousands of dollars of debt they can't pay off from misuse of credit cards."


"When you buy something with your credit card, the store pays a fee to the credit card company, typically a base fee of 15 to 50 cents plus 2 to 3% of the purchase. At least, that's what it was a few years back when I had a tiny business and I wanted to accept credit cards. Big chain stores pay less because they are ""buying in bulk"" and have negotiating power. Just because you aren't paying interest doesn't mean the credit card company isn't making money off of you. In fact if you pay your monthly bill promptly, they're probably making MORE off of you, because they're collecting 2 or 3% for a month or less, instead of the 1 to 2% per month that they can charge in interest. The only situation I know where you can get money from a credit card company for free is when they offer ""convenience checks"" or a balance transfer with no up-front fee. I get such an offer every now and then. I presume the credit card company does that for the same reason that stores give out free samples: they hope that if you try the card, you'll continue using it. To them, it's a marketing cost, no different than the cost of putting an ad on television."


Walmart doesn't sit on a lot of cash. If they want to give Amazon a real fight then they'll need to retain more earnings and I wonder if investors will like that. I expect a short term stock dip at minimum.


To directly answer your question, the best choice is to pay cash and place the rest on your student loan. This is saving you from paying more interest.  To offer some advise, consider purchasing a cheaper car to place more money towards your student loan debt. This will be the best financial decision in the long-term.  I suspect the reason you are considering financing this vehicle is that the cash payment feels like a lot. Trust your instinct here. This vehicle sounds like large splurge considering your current debt, and your gut is telling you as much. Be patient. Use your liquid funds to get a more affordable vehicle and attack the debt. That is setting yourself up for financial success.


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">Goods that are exchanged for financial value, which you can use to increase your own standard of living at the expense of the people importing your goods.  If you're doing that, you're running balanced trade, not a surplus. To run a surplus, you have to accumulate the financial claims. That's why you see Japan and China for example holding large balances of US dollars which they just park in treasuries. If you pursue trade surpluses as a policy, you're stuck holding the money.  >I've been ""emphasizing"" a bottom line this entire time!  It's the wrong line though. A *voluntary* financial constraint that forces real output capacity into idleness leaving a country poorer in real terms."


It's the CEO's/company's choice. If they lose excellent people because of it, so be it.   Honestly, I am sick of working with pot heads. Outside of their smoke breaks, they might get a couple hours or actual work done in a 8 hour work day while I am busting my ass subsidizing some of their work just to keep the place afloat. It doesn't help that I am salaried and end up staying 3 hours over on some days just to catch back up with my job.


MrChrister makes some good points, but I saw his invitation to offer a counter opinion. First, there is a normal annual deposit limit of $13,000 per parent or donee. This is the gift limit, due to rise to $14,000 in 2013.  If your goal is strictly to fund college, and this limit isn't an issue for you, the one account may be fine unless both kids are in school at the same time. In that case, you're going to need to change beneficiaries every year to assign withdrawals properly.  But, as you mention, there's gift money that your considering depositing to the account. In this case, there's really a legal issue. The normal 529 allows changes in beneficiary, and gifts to your child need to be held for that child in an irrevocable arrangement such as a UTMA account. There is a 529 flavor that provides for no change of beneficiary, a UTMA 529. Clearly, in that case, you need separate accounts.  In conclusion, I think the single account creates more issues than it potentially solves. If the true gift money from others is minimal, maybe you should just keep it in a regular account. Edit - on further reflection, I strongly suggest you keep the relatives' gifts in a separate account, and when the kids are old enough to have legitimate earned income, use this money to open and deposit to Roth IRAs. They can deposit the lesser of their earned income or $5000 in 2012, $5500 in 2013.  This serves two goals - avoiding the risk of gift money being 'stolen' from one child for benefit of the other, and putting it into an account that can help your children long term, but not impact college aid as would a simple savings or brokerage account.


I am not aware of any hedge funds that measure themselves using the sharpe ratio. The sharpe ratio measures risk relative to the risk free rate, and I don't believe there are any huge funds that consider themselves risk free.   Hedge funds or CTAs will use information ratio using excess return compared to a relevant benchmark.


Depends on what you mean by communism. Also whether or not a basic income is viable is another question. I'm not trying to say I know all the answers, but I've thought a lot about the future. Some worry that a basic income would basically make the masses slaves in a way because it wouldn't solve income inequality, it would make people dependent on a government hand out.   Another option is to disperse labor. Instead of working 40 hours a week, they work 30, 20, or less. But this solution might only be temporary until humans are simply not cost effective. The question will be, why are we working and why create machines? To alleviate human labor and serve human life? Or to extract as much as possible from Earth regardless of human life, to horde a big pile of resources regardless of whether or not humans exist to use them.


Many banks will waive the fee if you have a certain minimum balance, use direct deposit, or something similar.  That said, some banks and credit unions have no monthly fees under any circumstances.  Big banks only get away with terrible service and fees because most people don't shop around for banks.


"GE have two problems as I (a GE alum) see it.  1.  Short-termism in middle management.  If you're a middle manager at GE, you're desperate to make ""E Band"" - the named Executive rank.  To get there, you can't be in your role for more than three years, but ideally two.  So you won't begin, support, endorse or participate in any project that won't see measurable financial results in >24 months.  That's lunacy.  What this means is that to show ""impact"" at GE, middle management bash together some flimsy band-aid for a real problem.  They'll generally call it a ""template"" or a ""best practice"", even if it is neither.  They'll put it on the GE intranet as a ""workflow"", and tell everyone to use it.  Then they'll call that improvement project complete, and move on to their next job.  2.  Matrix environment.  Currently in vogue, I get it.  Here's how it's poison to GE.  There are middle managers in GE who report to three different people, and have no-one reporting to them (or very few people).  Therefore, to get anything done without resources of your own, you have to go around begging and borrowing other people - under the guise of ""matrix environment"".  That has two issues: firstly that it relies on the influencing skills of the middle-manager (don't get me wrong, influencing skills matter, but they're not the #1 skill required to move the needle), and secondly that it relies on the bandwidth and the ability-to-say no of the resource.  Busy people say no, and busy people tend to be the best.  Weak people can't say no, and they tend not to be.  All this gives GE fairly crappy solutions to fairly fundamental problems.  tl;dr: Incentives and Organization at GE lead to sub-optimal outcomes."


There are many property management companies are available in India. You can easily find trusted companies just searching on the google. They manage all these things legally. You just try this


"This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](http://www.governing.com/topics/transportation-infrastructure/gov-counties-climate-change-damages-economic-effects-map.html) reduced by 91%. (I'm a bot) ***** > A study published in the journal Science in June is the most extensive model available of what climate change could cost the United States, county by county.  > According to the study, the American South and lower Midwest will bear the brunt of the economic costs associated with climate change through the end of the century.  > &quot;Also, if you&#039;re a bond-writing agency and you&#039;re rating bonds without thinking about how the government will be affected by climate change, you&#039;re not doing your job.""   ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/6vqt9n/how_much_climate_change_will_cost_each_us_county/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~197599 tl;drs so far."") | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."") | *Top* *keywords*: **change**^#1 **county**^#2 **climate**^#3 **economic**^#4 **study**^#5"


Where do you get this BS? Show me a study that says taxing the 1% will damage the economy. They are already hoarding their wealth in foreign bank accounts. Also this professor is  a Wall Street Financial Analyst, Distinguished Research Professor of Economics at the University of Missouri, Kansas City and author of Super-Imperialism: The Economic Strategy of American Empire...What do you know most knowledgeable economist don't know? Stop spewing right wing propaganda.


"I remember I saw a study that said minimum wage increases have minimum affects on how ""expensive"" everything gets. It has an affect on inflation in that sense but not to the dramatic levels conservatives put it at.   Ontario will be putting it's min wage to $15 in two years, $14 in the coming January. It's almost $13 now. It's chugging a long nicely and inflation has been lower than it should be."


"As others have said, congratulations on saving up 75K in cash while seemingly not neglecting other areas of personal finance.  Considering that only 15% of Americans have more than 10K saved this is quite a feat.  source If you sell your old house, and buy the new one you will still be in really good financial shape.  No need to comment further. Renting your current home and buying a new home introduces a great amount of risk into your life.  The risk in this case is mitigated by cash.  As others have pointed out, you will need to save a lot more to remove an acceptable amount of risk. Here is what I see: So without paying off your existing house I would see a minimum savings account balance of about double of what you have now.  Once you purchase the new house, the amount would be reduced by the down payment, so you will only have about 50K sitting around. The rental emergency fund may be a little light depending on how friendly your state is to landlords.  Water heaters break, renters don't pay, and properties can sit vacant.  Also anytime you move into a new business there will be mistakes made that are solved by writing checks.  Do you have experience running rentals?   You might be better off to sell your existing home, and move into a more expensive home than what you are suggesting. You can continue to win at money without introducing a new factor into your life. Alternatively, if you are ""bitten by the real estate bug"" you could mitigate a lot risk by buying a property that is of similar value to your current home or even less expensive.  You can then choose which home to live in that makes the most financial sense.  For example some choose to live in the more dilapidated home so they can do repairs as time permits. To me upgrading the home you live in, and renting an expensivish home for a rental is too much to do in such a short time frame.  It is assuming far too much risk far to quickly for a person with your discipline.  You will get there."


I think, based on their publicly available records, that they believe their own rather substantial increases in wealth since being elected are repeated amongst the general public.  Since they only circulate amongst the elite that pay for their elections, they probably are unaware that the average American has see their income decrease since the 1980's, while they and their friends incomes have increased an average of 10% per year since the 1980's.  So, for them, at least, their strategy is working.  But I still can't see why people vote for them.


I understand the aggression because the logic permeates into individual income taxes and can really negatively affect lives. I mean I really essentially at some point am being forced to chose between sane financial stability or a feeling of identity of the country I am from. I hate that I'm in that position and I hate the politicians and the people that enable them even more. FATCA passed the Senate with 80 votes. It was part of a jobs bill, so GOP went against it in the House, but they still supported that position. They only changed their tune about that one just last year after allowing both parties to trample all over citizens living abroad. But there's only a few million of us and it's distributed across states, so our votes just don't matter.


If you leave your job (or lose it) the loan is due on separation. You'll pay tax and a10% penalty.


Why not just hold that cash until you graduate from college? Why? Because it's a safety net - make sure you don't have any sudden expenses (medical, school bills, car bills, etc). Then after school you're going to need some cash for job moving, relocation, clothes, downpayment on apartment, utilities, etc. If all that cash is tied up into a 401 or IRA then you can't touch it and if something happens you'll be tempted to take a loan out. Ack!  You'll have plenty of time since you're just starting to save for retirement. Keep this cash as a beginning emergency fund and hang on cause as soon as you get out of school things really move fast. :)


There are few things on reddit that bother me more than seeing someone I disagree with making an honest attempt at reasonable debate, providing facts and arguments to support their position, and being downvoted and *ad hominem*ed away. Thanks for trying to engage intelligently on the topic. I'm all for solar, but you *do* make a good point here.


Cap gains and qualified dividend taxes are the same (see link below)  First let's assume were talking about a taxable account (in a tax-deferred/exempt account taxes don't really matter) capital gains taxes are only realized at the end sale, so share buybacks will not have any adverse until the gains are realized, which in theory should be as far out as possible, whereas dividends are taxed in the year they are received. because of the compounding the buybacks are better than the dividends (which pay tax up-front versus on the back end with buybacks). Yes investors are irrational, but I'm trying to take the long-term rational approach. Additionally, dividends are taxed at cap gains rates if the position is held 60+ days, so all else held equal, share buybacks are more tax-efficient in the long-run.   https://turbotax.intuit.com/tax-tools/tax-tips/Investments-and-Taxes/Guide-to-Taxes-on-Dividends/INF19201.html


Nothing holds you in place, but your own head. If you want to do something that pays better, try setting goals. Read books on your dream job, learn the processes, and do whatever it takes to get there. I'll tell you this, I am not impressed with people who slack off and want better pay. Skill and knowledge jobs pay more. The trades are a great way to earn a living, if you aren't a smart person, but work hard. You want a desk job paying 100k, get your ass in gear. No time for drinking and getting high, dreaming about the job someone else has. Earn it.


Yes, it's a gross over-simplification, we can certainly agree on that.  You don't need a degree to make a good living (defined as 50k+ work for you?). This is a popular lie that was fed to young people, which aided in creating this student loan crisis in the first place. Truck drivers, construction workers, skilled laborers in general, etc make good money. Right put of HS, of course it can be difficult to land one of these jobs, but working as say, a dock worker for $10-12 for a few years and working your way up to a higher-paying job is a fantastic route to take- in this case that would likely be a truck driver (this requires some school and a license, but every semi-major company will pay for that if you've been working for them for a few years and they can trust you). The issue that is far too prevalent is that kids either aren't getting a reasonable education or they aren't graduating from HS- topics for another day probably.   School costs have gone up because the govt was garunteeijg a loan to everyone with a pulse.   I'm with you on education. Public education is an abject failure. We have failed to educate our youth and minimum wage laws price those poorly educated, unskilled youths right out of the job market. I'll leave the rest of the third paragraph alone as I think we differ in fundamental values that neither of us are likely to change and a discussion of those values would be exausting.


First read mhoran's answer, Then this -  If the company sold nothing but refrigerators, and had 40% market share, that's $4M/yr in sales. If they have a 30% profit margin, $1.2M in profit each year. A P/E of 10 would give a stock value totaling $12M, more than the market size. The numbers are related, of course, but one isn't the maximum of the other.


The first thing is to look at the monthly cost of the loan. The one from the company is interest free. While it is unlikely that a bank will have a zero percent loan, you will also have to look at what the seller will offer.  The next thing to look at is the term of the loan. When comparing two loans with the same interest rate the shorter term loan will cost more per month. Many times when an auto dealer offers a zero percent loan they also  have a very short term: 12-24 months; Many people can't afford the monthly payments with that short a term.  You said you could afford to save the other $2000 in about six months. That means you could set aside $333 a month to do it in six months. If the loan from the employer has a term longer than 6 months you should be able to afford the loan. Keep in mind that the employer will probably be taking the money right out of your paychecks.  You do have to look at the conditions attached to the loan. What does accepting the loan do to your employment situation? If you leave early do they want you to pay it back in 30 days, or will they take the rest from the final paycheck, or do you have longer?  You do have to look at the term of the loan, and see if you can pay it off early. If they require a 12 month term can you end it earlier, or change the monthly payment to end it early? The reason why you care about the term is that if the term is 24 months then after a year you still owe them $1000; which if you have to pay back immediately if you quit, it may make it hard for you to leave the company. A minor note: They probably are not reporting it to the credit reporting agencies therefore it wont help your credit score. This is probably not a big issue since you are considering going without a loan.


I'd say figure out if you want to be in corporate finance or investment finance- do you want to work front office or back office? I knew a lot of people that want to be financial analysts in the investment industry, but depending on where you live those jobs may be few and far in between. Financial services/ sales can be one of he more lucrative areas, but you need to have the right skill set/desire for that. I highly recommend getting an internship, this will build experience and also help you figure out what interests you the most


>Gate agents earn $25,000 to $50,000 a year in wages and benefits,   Please remember this next time you travel, folks.  In my old position, I would travel once a month (I realize this is nothing for many biz travelers) and I would always hate seeing the entitled FlyerTalk-types or the ignorant adults on personal travel bickering with one gate attendant in a busy place like ATL.  Big pet peeve of mine.  Also, if you're nice, it can pay off. I've gotten bumped (on purpose) for far more than the initial offer because I was nice, calm and patient.  The second airport pet peeve of mine is everyone bumrushing the gate when your zone **isn't** called. I understand when your row is called, but to try and cheat the system slows everyone down. These machines would be able to determine zones, I gather.


My 12 year old routinely makes purchases with cash or a gift card (either a store's card or a Visa/Amex card that acts like credit card but is a gift card) and has never had an issue. Clothing, make-up, bath items, etc. I understand in some areas you need to be over 18 to buy certain markers, spraypaint, or other propellant items that can be fatal if inhaled. I see little issue with buying pet supplies, but it wouldn't hurt to have your sibling nearby if you think there will be an issue.


40k/yr for college is really a waste unless you're going for certain specific majors. Most people will be fine with local 10k/yr colleges while living at home. But yea, I think a lot of the 900k number comes from the opportunity cost of the money not being invested at a certain assumed % growth so overall, still a generally bs number.


Humans also coped fine before the advent of computers. Does that mean we should revert back to how things were before they came about?   Anyway you haven't said why HFT is inherently bad. Well, you did make one point at the start but I think it's a weak one.  You said that HFT screws those without access to HFT? HFT system aren't free you know. I could say that me having instant access to stock markets through a computer screws over those who still rely in calling their broker to place an order. Does that mean that trading through computers should be banned? I know you'll probably argue the difference in the magnitude of the capital requirements and that almost everybody has access to a computer but not an HFT system, but where do you draw the line? Should bloomberg terminals be banned? They're out of reach for a lot of investors due to the cost.


A few years ago I had a 5 year car loan. I wanted to prepay it after 2 years and I asked this question to the lender. I expected a reduction in the interest attached to the car loan since it didn't go the full 5 years. They basically told me I was crazy and the balance owed was the full amount of the 5 year car loan. This sounds like you either got a bad car loan (i.e. pay all the interest first before paying any principal), a crooked lender, or you were misunderstood.  Most consumer loans (both car loans and mortgages) reduce the amount of interest you pay (not the _percentage) as you pay down principal. The amount of interest of each payment is computed by multiplying the balance owed by the periodic interest rate (e.g. if your loan is at 12% annual interest you'll pay 1% of the remaining principal each month). Although that's the most common loan structure, there are others that are more complex and less friendly to the consumer. Typically those are used when credit is an issue and the lender wants to make sure they get as much interest up front as they can, and can recover the principal through a repossession or foreclosure. It sounds like you got a precomputed interest loan.  With these loans, the amount of interest you'd pay if you paid through the life of the loan is computed and added to the principal to get a total loan balance. You are required to pay back that entire amount, regardless of whether you pay early or not. You could still pay it early just to get that monkey off your back, but you may not save any interest.   You are not crazy to think that you should be able to save on interest, though, as that's how normal loans work.   Next time you need to borrow money, make sure you understand the terms of the loan (and if you don't, ask someone else to help you). Or just save up cash and don't borrow money ;)


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Are you emailing him constantly or just sending over a question here and there?   Asking because there's a point where advice isn't free and if you aren't paying him to answer extra emails and phone calls, he's not likely to answer them. Also, he probably has a lot of clients so it can be hard to keep up if you get lots of emails from a client. If possible, ask all of your questions in one email.


"What you're asking about is called a ""distribution"" when it comes to an LLC.  It's basically you paying yourself some or all of the proceeds of the business, depending on how you're set up.  You can pay yourself distributions on a regular schedule, say monthly, or you can do it at the end of the year. Whatever you do in this regard, what you take out as distributions is reported on your personal income tax as taxable income.  LLCs in the U.S. use pass-through taxation (unless you intentionally elect to have the LLC treated as a corporation for tax purposes, which some people do), so whatever the principals receive in distribution is personally taxable. Keep in mind that you'll have to pay ALL of the taxes normally covered by an employer, such as self-employment tax (usually about 15%), social security tax, and so on.  This is in addition to income tax, so remember that. I hope this helps. Good luck!"


This is true! On-line sales, mostly by Amazon, destroyed retail.  And, while many people lost their jobs (new jobs were created, but much less), many people saved a lot of money.  I don't think the Brick and mortar retail can be the same if you can shop and have huge selection on-line from anywhere were you live.


That's an interesting statistic, that 3% of users generate nearly all revenue.  Their S-1 filing shows that in the quarter ending Sep 2011, they had 150M monthly unique users, and generated $292M in revenue (excludes advertising).  If 3% of users pay for that revenue, that's $64.88 per quarter, or $21.63 per month.    I think it's going to be a real test trying to double the number of customers willing to pay that every month.  I'm sure that some money will come from brick and mortar.  However, brick and mortar retailers may have a difficult time convincing customers that Zynga gold is a valuable addition to a purchase, since 97% of people choose not to purchase Zynga gold.


There is no standard way to divide property under these circumstances. This is why lawyers recommend agreeing how property will be divided up front, and why they make so much money sorting out issues like this when couples divorce. Incidentally, you don't say which country you are in, but in many countries if you have lived together for five years, your breakup can be treated like a divorce, legally speaking. If you can't agree on how to divide the property, the courts will be involved. You are faced with a choice. Either find some way to come to an agreement you can both accept, or hire lawyers and argue it out in court. You might want to consider finding someone to act as mediator who will help you to come to an agreement. Professional mediation services exist, or you could consider a person you both respect and with the skills to do this.


In addition to asking an accountant, I would also ask a lawyer.  When exploring the same question for myself, I found that one of the benefits of incorporating or forming an LLC is that your personal assets are better protected.   Including asset protection, here are 5 reasons to incorporate: Initially, I thought that as I had so few assets, I should not be concerned.  I was glad I was able to do a free consult with a lawyer who advised me to look into forming an LLC.  (Ultimately, my planned business idea never panned out.  So, I never went the incorporation/LLC route.)  Hope this helps!


"In short, yes. By ""forward selling"", you enter into a futures contract by which you agree to trade Euros for dollars (US or Singapore) at a set rate agreed to by both parties, at some future time. You are basically making a bet; you think that the dollar will gain on the Euro and thus you'd pay a higher rate on the spot than you've locked in with the future. The other party to the contract is betting against you; he thinks the dollar will weaken, and so the dollars he'll sell you will be worth less than the Euros he gets for them at the agreed rate. Now, in a traditional futures contract, you are obligated to execute it, whether it ends up good or bad for you. You can, to avoid this, buy an ""option"". By buying the option, you pay the other party to the deal for the right to say ""no, thanks"". That way, if the dollar weakens and you'd rather pay spot price at time of delivery, you simply let the contract expire un-executed. The tradeoff is that options cost money up-front which is now sunk; whether you exercise the option or not, the other party gets the option price. That basically creates a ""point spread""; you ""win"" if the dollar appreciates against the Euro enough that you still save money even after buying the option, or if the dollar depreciates against the Euro enough that again you still save money after subtracting the option price, while you ""lose"" if the exchange rates are close enough to what was agreed on that it cost you more to buy the option than you gained by being able to choose to use it."


"If ""Bank of America"" is truly a hard-and-fast requirement, the best solution is to go to a branch and see what they can do. If they turn you down, it likely can't be done."


You could find a relative in another country who has the ability to receive PayPal, and have them transfer the money to you via Western Union or Hawala.


This is assuming that you are now making some amount X per month which is more than the income you used to have as a student. (Otherwise, the question seems rather moot.) All figures should be net amounts (after taxes). First, figure out what the difference in your cost of living is. That is, housing, electricity, utilities, the basics that you need to have to have a place in which to live. I'm not considering food costs here unless they were subsidized while you were studying. Basically, you want to figure out how much you now have to spend extra per month for basic sustenance. Then, figure out how much more you are now making, compared to when you were a student. Subtract the sustenance extra from this to get your net pay increase. After that is when it gets trickier. Basically, you want to set aside or invest as much of the pay increase as possible, but you probably have other expenses now that you didn't before and which you cannot really do that much about. This mights be particular types of clothes, commute fares (car keepup, gas, bus pass, ...), or something entirely different. Anyway, decide on a savings goal, as a percentage of your net pay increase compared to when you were a student. This might be 5%, 10% or (if you are really ambitious) 50% or more. Whichever number you pick, make sure it's reasonable giving your living expenses, and keep in mind that anything is better than nothing. Find a financial institution that offers a high-interest savings account, preferably one with free withdrawals, and sign up for one. Each and every time you get paid, figure out how much to save based on the percentage you determined (if your regular case is that you get the same payment each time, you can simply set up an automated bank transfer), put that in the savings account and, for the moment, forget about that money. Try your best to live only on the remainder, but if you realize that you set aside too much, don't be afraid to tap into the savings account. Adjust your future deposits accordingly and try to find a good balance. At the end of each month, deposit whatever remains in your regular account into your savings account, and if that is a sizable amount of money, consider raising your savings goal a little. The ultimate goal should be that you don't need to tap into your savings except for truly exceptional situations, but still keep enough money outside of the savings account to cater to some of your wants. Yes, bank interest rates these days are often pretty dismal, and you will probably be lucky to find a savings account that (especially after taxes) will even keep up with inflation. But to start with, what you should be focusing on is not to make money in terms of real value appreciation, but simply figuring out how much money you really need to sustain a working life for yourself and then walking that walk. Eventually (this may take anywhere from a couple of months to a year or more), you should have settled pretty well on an amount that you feel comfortable with setting aside each month and just letting be. By that time, you should have a decently sized nest egg already, which will help you get over rough spots, and can start thinking about other forms of investing some of what you are setting aside. Whenever you get a net pay raise of any kind (gross pay raise, lower taxes, bonus, whichever), increase your savings goal by a portion of that raise. Maybe give yourself 60% of the raise and bank the remaining 40%. That way, you are (hopefully!) always increasing the amount of money that you are setting aside, while also reaping some benefits right away. One major upside of this approach is that, if you lose your job, not only will you have that nest egg, you will also be used to living on less. So you will have more money in the bank and less monthly expenses, which puts you in a significantly better position than if you had only one of those, let alone neither.


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I found this website for some ammo if you need it. For plans with less than 100 participants the limit is 7 days after deduction from your paycheck, though an extension is possible with some paperwork. A DOL audit would probably land your employer in some trouble if they are regularly taking 4 weeks to deposit your funds in the 401k account.


"If you need less than $125k for the downpayment, I recommend you convert your mutual fund shares to their ETF counterparts tax-free: Can I convert conventional Vanguard mutual fund shares to Vanguard   ETFs? Shareholders of Vanguard stock index funds that offer Vanguard ETFs   may convert their conventional shares to Vanguard ETFs of the same   fund. This conversion is generally tax-free, although some brokerage   firms may be unable to convert fractional shares, which could result   in a modest taxable gain. (Four of our bond ETFs—Total Bond Market,   Short-Term Bond, Intermediate-Term Bond, and Long-Term Bond—do not   allow the conversion of bond index fund shares to bond ETF shares of   the same fund; the other eight Vanguard bond ETFs allow conversions.) There is no fee for Vanguard Brokerage clients to convert conventional   shares to Vanguard ETFs of the same fund. Other brokerage providers   may charge a fee for this service. For more information, contact your   brokerage firm, or call 866-499-8473. Once you convert from conventional shares to Vanguard ETFs, you cannot   convert back to conventional shares. Also, conventional shares held   through a 401(k) account cannot be converted to Vanguard ETFs. https://personal.vanguard.com/us/content/Funds/FundsVIPERWhatAreVIPERSharesJSP.jsp Withdraw the money you need as a margin loan, buy the house, get a second mortgage of $125k, take the proceeds from the second mortgage and pay back the margin loan. Even if you have short term credit funds, it'd still be wiser to lever up the house completely as long as you're not overpaying or in a bubble area, considering your ample personal investments and the combined rate of return of the house and the funds exceeding the mortgage interest rate.  Also, mortgage interest is tax deductible while margin interest isn't, pushing the net return even higher. $125k Generally, I recommend this figure to you because the biggest S&P collapse since the recession took off about 50% from the top.  If you borrow $125k on margin, and the total value of the funds drop 50%, you shouldn't suffer margin calls. I assumed that you were more or less invested in the S&P on average (as most modern ""asset allocations"" basically recommend a back-door S&P as a mix of credit assets, managed futures, and small caps average the S&P). Second mortgage Yes, you will have two loans that you're paying interest on. You've traded having less invested in securities & a capital gains tax bill for more liabilities, interest payments, interest deductions, more invested in securities, a higher combined rate of return. If you have $500k set aside in securities and want $500k in real estate, this is more than safe for you as you will most likely have a combined rate of return of ~5% on $500k with interest on $500k at ~3.5%.  If you're in small cap value, you'll probably be grossing ~15% on $500k. You definitely need to secure your labor income with supplementary insurance.  Start a new question if you need a model for that. Secure real estate with securities A local bank would be more likely to do this than a major one, but if you secure the house with the investment account with special provisions like giving them copies of your monthly statements, etc, you might even get a lower rate on your mortgage considering how over-secured the loan would be. You might even be able to wrap it up without a down payment in one loan if it's still legal.  Mortgage regulations have changed a lot since the housing crash."


Most stocks are not actively trades by lots of people.   When you buy or sell a stock the price is set by the “order book” – that is the other people looking to trade in the given stock at the same time. Without a large number of active traders, it is very likely the pricing system will break down and result in widely changing prices second by second.   Therefore for the market to work well, it need most people to be trading at the same time.


All the stuff that Microsoft and Apple sell depend on oil being consistently available at a stable price.  Also, if you don't think that the US government hasn't applied pressure (to the point of using military credibility) on the behest of Microsoft and Apple, you haven't done your homework.


The problem with this is that the advertising revenue doesn't justify it, and neither does the pay per channel. When Hulu starts making money, then it might be a possibility. Right now advertisers won't pay as much for a commercial on the internet that reaches the same number of viewers as it would on tv. Unfortunately, the cost doesn't match up to the benefit at the moment.


"You'd have to look at the terms of the loan to be sure, but if the interest compounds weekly then you'd have to calculate the effect of 3 compounding periods, then compute for weekly payments. The balance after 3 weeks would be: Using Excel's PMT function for that principal balance, I get a weekly payment of $189.48.   If the interest doesn't compound, the principal balance will be about $8888.37 and the weekly payment would be $189.85. Note, however, that the terms of the loan could be completely customized, so you'd need to be sure that the payment and the amortization schedule make sense to you before you agree to the loan.  Since the interest is very high, I suspect this is a ""no credit needed"" car loan which are notorious for unfavorable (to the borrower) terms."


Ok, this gives us something to start on. I am owner of a company that our best selling product is government designed.   Your position is that there is no profit incentive if government invests in a company. I know from first hand experience that is not true. If government were funding your whole company, and you as an owner had no skin in the game - then yes, that would be true. However, that is not what government does. I have experience from receiving government grants for our own innovation, as well as receiving the right to sell a government designed product.   Our company competes with a number of other companies that do the same. This investment in our work has given our company a great boost, which has lead to other ideas and inventions as well as growth and expansion. The end user has gotten the benefit of that too, as the government isn't really good at mass production and sales - but we are. However, if the government hadn't made this investment, we would still be doing what we are doing, it would have just taken us a little longer to get here.   You other position is that they only listen to special interests who would like it if the project is as expensive as possible. There is some truth to that, and there are definitely projects where we have seen that, but that is more the exception than the rule. What usually happens is eventually these companies piss off an end user who receives the product which is the result of these bloated contracts. When it gets bad enough, people run to their representatives, and there is a major investigation. I know of a couple of people who have spent time in the Federal Penn, including the owner of another small business in the city where my company is. A lot of times these companies are banned, or are moved to the fringe where they go into a death spiral.   Competition is the lifeblood of capitalism, and our company has grown and succeeded because we pick up business all the time from larger companies who bloat and laziness has caused them to be noncompetitive.


It's impossible to claim that *no* regulation does this.  But it's ignorant to claim regulations as a *whole* are preventing progress. Which regulations are you buthurt by exactly? The ones that make the police department buy fords? The ones preventing land seizure for government projects? Let's see a list. Other than tump spewing bullshit I doubt you can come up with a list off the top of your head your mad about.


"Throughout the mid 00's, TV was filled with crappy ""reality"" shows like ""Flip This House"" showing people spending an obscene amount of money on a dilapidated house, then spending an obscene amount of money on it renovating it, and then selling it for an obscene profit a month later.  There were even shows where they would rip out new kitchens, spend $100k on a new one, and make $200,000 on the sale.  The housing market was insane, and was being pushed by realtors, and mortgage companies to trick people into thinking an obscenely priced house was doable on their barely middle class income.  Buyer beware. If prices are going up 20% a year, don't buy into it 4 years into the run and expect it to last forever."


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"This is the best tl;dr I could make, [original](https://openknowledge.worldbank.org/handle/10986/27615) reduced by 75%. (I'm a bot) ***** > AbstractLatin America and the Caribbean does not have the infrastructure it needs, or deserves, given its income.  > Many argue that the solution is to spend more; by contrast, this report has one main message: Latin America can dramatically narrow its infrastructure service gap by spending efficiently on the right things.  > Unlike most infrastructure diagnostics, this report argues that much of what is needed lies outside the infrastructure sector - in the form of broader government issues-from competition policy, to budgeting rules that no longer solely focus on controlling cash expenditures.   ***** [**Extended Summary**](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/6o5c4m/rethinking_infrastructure_in_latin_america_and/) | [FAQ](http://np.reddit.com/r/autotldr/comments/31b9fm/faq_autotldr_bot/ ""Version 1.65, ~170098 tl;drs so far."") | [Feedback](http://np.reddit.com/message/compose?to=%23autotldr ""PM's and comments are monitored, constructive feedback is welcome."") | *Top* *keywords*: **infrastructure**^#1 **America**^#2 **spend**^#3 **report**^#4 **identifies**^#5"


Impossible. Unless you have real evidence of knowing a thing or two. I.e. - a degree, or a certification of some sort.   Not trying to be rude, but just honest when I say I would have serious suspicions someone who just happens to work in finance could begin to understand the math behind AI or Blockchain, or even more traditional statistical quant work.


Does anyone actually read his stuff. I never bothered with his Valeant presentation, which is supposedly wrong, but his recent stuff is absolute garbage. If anyone actually followed those stocks his writing is laughable. I'm not sure if he purposely misconstrues financials to illustrate a narrative or is actually stupid. Probably the former, but that doesn't make him hero.


They are not supposed to force any tax or escrow payments in addition to your normal principal and interest payment, unless you are delinquent on your taxes and insurance. If you are late or delinquent at all  they can force you into escrows depending on how your Deed of Trust (mortgage) is worded. That being said, I've had to deal with BoA on behalf of clients over the same issues you just mentioned. Their whole system is made to cause chaos and confusion, especially for poor souls trying to complete a short sale, or a loan restructuring program. They are forever losing vital paperwork, or saying they didn't get documents in time, even though you spoke with someone to confirm receipt. They aren't really set up to help anyone, they just give the illusion of it before they foreclose.   I owned a Title and Escrow company for many years, and most all mortgages with most all lenders (in our state) read they had the right to force escrow in the case of delinquency or even accelerate to foreclosure. If you've never been late on either or let your insurance lapse, or taxes fall delinquent, they shouldn't be able to require escrows, unless there is specific language in your original mortgage that says they can.  Also, most people aren't aware that non payment isn't the only reason a  lender can foreclose. Most mortgages read a lender can foreclose for the following reasons:  -Non payment  -Failure to keep homeowners insurance  -Failure to pay taxes  -Condemnation  -Storing toxic waste, or hazardous materials  -Illegal operations and usage (meth labs, etc...)